Anyone know how to test to see if this thing is fried?

 

Not sure how to pull it out but there are two wires running to the back of the panel dimmer switch. If you jump or touch those two wires together and your dash lights go on (with the headlights on) then the switch is bad if not the switch is OK. No Dash lights could also be caused by headlight switch trouble, also check Fuse #18 it's 7.5 amps.

 

Well there's three pins on mine and this has been a problem that I've had for well over a year. It's not fuses, it's not a short, the only thing I can think of is that the dimmer switch is fried. I'd prefer to test before spending 67 dollars on a new one at the dealership.

 

$67?!?! havent you heard of the classifieds section...people sell them for $5-$10

 

Yes, there is a way to test it, I think. This is all I can help with:

There should be a ground, an input and an output.

Take a battery, attach the neg to the neg pin on the switch, and the positive to the input. Then take a multimeter and test across the output pin(positive) and your battery negative.

 

Well I want to go the classifieds route, but I haven't gotten any responses from anyone yet. I've been driving for over a year without interior lights. I'm willing to dish out the money to get this in and working ASAP. MOHFpro, I'll try that.

 

OK three wires, Touch metal portion of either of the two wires with the yellow stripes (one is red with yellow stripe the other is L with yellow stripe, not sure what color L means) to the solid black wire. Do this with headlights, or warning lights on. If dash lights go on when you touch them its probably the switch. Anyone who knows how to use an ohmmeter should be able to test this switch for you easily.

 

Dude i just went to my car an pulled out my dimmer switch. I hit every terminal twice with a continuity tester and none of the terminals have continuity between them. Sorry man mine works so if u have continuity then it might be bad
sorry brother I tried

 

Eh, I'm sure it's the switch. There's a spot that seems to be burned out. I just touched a positive to the positive on the plug and everything lit up, so it all works, it's just the switch. So if anyone is selling one, please let me know. Sorry for the low quality, but it's not that great of a camera.

 

Sorry, but just touch the red with yellow wire to black wire, the other L with yellow will probably case a fuse to blow.

 

I appreciate the help.

 

If you don't mind not being able to dim I think you can just jump the wires together. The dash will should only turn on when you turn the warning or headlights on. That appears to be a complex printed circuit board just for an on off and dimmer switch though.

 

You're welcome!

 

Haha Nopike, I appreciate your help too, but I've tried doing that before. Whenever the headlights are turned on, the gauge and dash lights go out.

 

Again you are welcome. Weird I'm looking at FSM diagram of the circuit, I do know how to read these. It appears that if you jump red with yellow stripe to solid black it should function maybe just no dimming?

 

Or just touch red with yellow to to metal part of the car, thats the same as black wire. It's all ground.

 

Well I"ll try it. I have a blue/green, red/yellow and ground. Are you saying if I connect the positive to the negative it should work?

 

Touch red/yellow to black or ground, should work, just no dimming.

 

IT WORKED! Nopike, you're my hero!

 

Don't touch the blue green to black, may blow fuse. Weird my diagrams show L/Y wich means is should be Blue with yellow stripe. Probably hard to tell in the dark.

 

GREAT! Here's where you send the check.

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/ try these guy for the part, they have good prices and I think they are out your way.

 

anybody know what the resistance/amperage across the sitch is?

 

Thats what were here for brother!!! =)

 

. With the switch fully activated you should measure 0 ohms between red/yellow wire (terminal 2) and black wire (terminal 3). Blue/yellow wire (Terminal 1) to blk (terminal 3) resistance will vary ( I don't know 10-1000 ohms) when you adjust the switch. Try like I mentioned above if it works than your switch is also shot. If not check the other items I mentioned. Good Luck!

 

A switch such as this and almost all switches are easily checked with just an ohmmeter. If you know how to use one.

 

mine works, i was just considering replacing it with a fixed resistor.

 

Why? Measure resistance between terminal 1 & 3 of the switch at the setting that you like. That is the resistance you will need.

 

i was considering opening up those spaces for something else. i geuss with all the electrical stuff i do i should have a dmm by now.