I really need my keyless fixed
I really need my keyless fixed
I have been key locking my doors for TOO long now. the remote does not work. the alarm does, just the remote(s) keyless entry/ etc. It intermittently was on and off and now its completely out. It is NOT the remote, i have tried unplugging/replugging in and even replacing the unit in the trunk...no luck. Checked the fuses...no luck there either.
this system can not be that complicated.
the only things I'm wondering is if it has anything to do with my rear defroster because the tint place screwed that up awhile back and i thought maybe the antenna for the remote ran through that or something. I dont know really but i want this to work.
someone has got to be familiar with this system. do relays just go bad? thats the only thing i havent replaced.
thanks
this system can not be that complicated.
the only things I'm wondering is if it has anything to do with my rear defroster because the tint place screwed that up awhile back and i thought maybe the antenna for the remote ran through that or something. I dont know really but i want this to work.
someone has got to be familiar with this system. do relays just go bad? thats the only thing i havent replaced.
thanks
this may sound stupid but i had this prob and i found out that i wasnt turning my key 100% back without taking it out and it wouldnt let the keyless work.
ignition wore over time and allowed this
ignition wore over time and allowed this
i wana ask a question a well abt this? If u have th ekeyless entry right but havent replace the battery inside the remote in abt like a year. DO u have to reprogram the the remote. Reason im askin is bc wen i bought my car the remote was with the keys but there was no battery, so i ought the battery but it still aint work so i simply thought the remote was broken
and to whoever asked if i changed my remote battery and reprogrammed...yes...trust me.
i wana ask a question a well abt this? If u have th ekeyless entry right but havent replace the battery inside the remote in abt like a year. DO u have to reprogram the the remote. Reason im askin is bc wen i bought my car the remote was with the keys but there was no battery, so i ought the battery but it still aint work so i simply thought the remote was broken
chillin, have you tried your relays and fusible links(Green 30a? Located in the fusebox by the battery)? sounds like it could easily be one of those. I will look in my box tomorrow and let you know where else to look if you need.
it's always good to try to reprogram a remote. I did both of mine today in about 3 minutes... it's SUPER easy. There's no harm in trying that first.
chillin, have you tried your relays and fusible links(Green 30a? Located in the fusebox by the battery)? sounds like it could easily be one of those. I will look in my box tomorrow and let you know where else to look if you need.
chillin, have you tried your relays and fusible links(Green 30a? Located in the fusebox by the battery)? sounds like it could easily be one of those. I will look in my box tomorrow and let you know where else to look if you need.
Ive had the same problem. However i did the reprogramming and it didn't work? Any ideas? It'd be nice not having to open the car by key all the time not to mention the dead weight on my key chain would become use full once again.
When customers at my work have a problem with their keyless entry, we tell them to go to the parts center of the dealership (it's a Ford dealership). Apparently there is some kind of code on the keyless entry thing, and they are able to reprogram it. My only suggestion is to try to take your car to a Nissan dealership (or the like) and try that
When customers at my work have a problem with their keyless entry, we tell them to go to the parts center of the dealership (it's a Ford dealership). Apparently there is some kind of code on the keyless entry thing, and they are able to reprogram it. My only suggestion is to try to take your car to a Nissan dealership (or the like) and try that 

might as well buy a whole new alarm system. I got quoted nearly $200 and they said that's just an estimate it might be more than that. Although if you have money to spend the stealership, i mean dealership is the best way to go.
When customers at my work have a problem with their keyless entry, we tell them to go to the parts center of the dealership (it's a Ford dealership). Apparently there is some kind of code on the keyless entry thing, and they are able to reprogram it. My only suggestion is to try to take your car to a Nissan dealership (or the like) and try that 

thanks but im convinced that the answer is more likely to be found on these forums than at the dealership. ive got friends at the nissan dealership and that is just...not the place of maxima expertise.
I vote for krismax's answer. That happened to me too. I bought a new batt for the remote, and re-programmed. The clue for that is if the inside door lock switch won't allow you to lock . . . it kicks the lock tabs back open. BTW, does your trunk remote open the trunk, do you hear it trying to ?? That would show the remote is (probably) OK, especially if it's always worked.
I don't know if that is the right way to "test" if the ignition is worn (the tabs coming back open) because my car has done that as long as i can remember and I've heard of others' maximas doing it too.
But if this problem is due to the ignition, what did yall do about it?
Also, no my remote does not pop the trunk or even trigger the locking mechanism. Nothing works on it. I've bought a working remote and tried and nothing.
But if this problem is due to the ignition, what did yall do about it?
Also, no my remote does not pop the trunk or even trigger the locking mechanism. Nothing works on it. I've bought a working remote and tried and nothing.
I vote for krismax's answer. That happened to me too. I bought a new batt for the remote, and re-programmed. The clue for that is if the inside door lock switch won't allow you to lock . . . it kicks the lock tabs back open. BTW, does your trunk remote open the trunk, do you hear it trying to ?? That would show the remote is (probably) OK, especially if it's always worked.
no thats not what i mean .
theres something that lockes the key in and wont let it out if its not turned all the way back. but as the car got older the key came out without turning it all the way back.
you know the button to press to get the key out i didnt need to do that.
press the button and turn the back all the way. then take the key out and try keyless entry
theres something that lockes the key in and wont let it out if its not turned all the way back. but as the car got older the key came out without turning it all the way back.
you know the button to press to get the key out i didnt need to do that.
press the button and turn the back all the way. then take the key out and try keyless entry
no thats not what i mean .
theres something that lockes the key in and wont let it out if its not turned all the way back. but as the car got older the key came out without turning it all the way back.
you know the button to press to get the key out i didnt need to do that.
press the button and turn the back all the way. then take the key out and try keyless entry
theres something that lockes the key in and wont let it out if its not turned all the way back. but as the car got older the key came out without turning it all the way back.
you know the button to press to get the key out i didnt need to do that.
press the button and turn the back all the way. then take the key out and try keyless entry
it's very easy on fusible links... if the metal piece is broken... the fusible link blew. you can see them through the clear part of the casing. check those first then maybe research about the possibility of your missing button.
Im not missing a button, the car came that way, as all automatics do.
my solution was to either ground or power the wire that used to connect to the park safety switch, depenting on wether it is a positive or negative switch.
If it's not a result of the BUTTON that you are lacking because of the 5speed swap then make sure you check the GREEN fusible links. They aren't normal fuses. They're green in that fuse box by the battery. As for testing your relays, which are on the other side of the engine bay, there is a diagram on each relay that tells you whether it is open or closed. Even easier for you, they color code the same kind of relays... switch the ones of the same color...
If it's not a result of the BUTTON that you are lacking because of the 5speed swap then make sure you check the GREEN fusible links. They aren't normal fuses. They're green in that fuse box by the battery. As for testing your relays, which are on the other side of the engine bay, there is a diagram on each relay that tells you whether it is open or closed. Even easier for you, they color code the same kind of relays... switch the ones of the same color...
The antenna is in the rear window. It sounds like that is the problem.
It would be easy to check. The control unit in the trunk receives a signal and then sends a ground signal to that component. Take a look in the fsm and unplug the control unit and just ground the wire for each component. If that works for everything then the problem is either the unit,remote or the antenna.
It would be easy to check. The control unit in the trunk receives a signal and then sends a ground signal to that component. Take a look in the fsm and unplug the control unit and just ground the wire for each component. If that works for everything then the problem is either the unit,remote or the antenna.
Thanks rockford. What do you mean by grounding the component wire, how would I do that? Just ground the harness coming straight to that module in the back?
If the antenna is bad how would I go about replacing that, is that something to do with the whole defroster?
If the antenna is bad how would I go about replacing that, is that something to do with the whole defroster?
The antenna is in the rear window. It sounds like that is the problem.
It would be easy to check. The control unit in the trunk receives a signal and then sends a ground signal to that component. Take a look in the fsm and unplug the control unit and just ground the wire for each component. If that works for everything then the problem is either the unit,remote or the antenna.
It would be easy to check. The control unit in the trunk receives a signal and then sends a ground signal to that component. Take a look in the fsm and unplug the control unit and just ground the wire for each component. If that works for everything then the problem is either the unit,remote or the antenna.
I'm not sure about the antenna. It can be repaired but i think it would be easier to replace the window. It is part of the defrost/radio antenna,remote antenna. You may be able to wire up an aftermarket antenna.
Yes unplug the harness from the module and ground each pin/wire. I'm not sure what wire is which without looking at the fsm. The easiest one to do would be the one for the trunk.
I'm not sure about the antenna. It can be repaired but i think it would be easier to replace the window. It is part of the defrost/radio antenna,remote antenna. You may be able to wire up an aftermarket antenna.
I'm not sure about the antenna. It can be repaired but i think it would be easier to replace the window. It is part of the defrost/radio antenna,remote antenna. You may be able to wire up an aftermarket antenna.
i'm gonna go check it all out in a minute here
edit- i'd probably have to reprogram the remote since codes are erased from trying to reprogram it before. that requires hitting the lock button on the remote so i'd have to ground that one in order to even tell. just thinking this all out outloud.
i hear you. I can only imagine how much a new rear window with defroster would cost...god. thats probably one of the most expensive parts on the whole car huh. why did they have to make the defroster on the surface.
i'm gonna go check it all out in a minute here
edit- i'd probably have to reprogram the remote since codes are erased from trying to reprogram it before. that requires hitting the lock button on the remote so i'd have to ground that one in order to even tell. just thinking this all out outloud.
i'm gonna go check it all out in a minute here
edit- i'd probably have to reprogram the remote since codes are erased from trying to reprogram it before. that requires hitting the lock button on the remote so i'd have to ground that one in order to even tell. just thinking this all out outloud.
No grounding the wire is the same thing the remote would be doing. So the remote doesn't need to be programed. Take a look at the fsm and find out which wire is what and test them out.
and i understand what your saying about the grounds. thanks
maximaspd85- one time it wouldnt work at all and i unplugged the module in the trunk and plugged it back in and the keyless immediately worked again, i didnt even have to reprogram. unfortunately that trick doesnt work anymore for whatever reason.
kback to my investigating.
oh btw one of the fusible links was a little darker than the rest in the little window on top but i swapped it with the power window one and the power windows still worked so i guess its not bad. itd be broken completely if it was bad right?
i grounded the trunk mechanism wire in the harness and it triggered it. I grounded all the other wires coming in there too but nothing more happened. I dont know what to conclude from this though? I couldnt find my second keyless box/unit. IM gonna get one from a junkyard and try that but i feel like its something to do with the defroster.
the fsm was just too confusing to figure anything out.
btw i have no antenna hooked up (shaved hole) but the wire is grounded if that matters.
the fsm was just too confusing to figure anything out.
btw i have no antenna hooked up (shaved hole) but the wire is grounded if that matters.
damnn, this seems to be a hard one. im having similar problems,but i think your way better off than me.mine doesnt make any sound or even attempt to go into programming mode.so imma try unplugging the unit in the trunk, plug it in back and see what happens.i wanna make sure atleast programming mode is working before buying a keyfob.
damnn, this seems to be a hard one. im having similar problems,but i think your way better off than me.mine doesnt make any sound or even attempt to go into programming mode.so imma try unplugging the unit in the trunk, plug it in back and see what happens.i wanna make sure atleast programming mode is working before buying a keyfob.
Ok i took a look at the fsm for you.
The signal wire(data line) to lock unlock and panic isn't a basic gound. I'm not sure what kind of signal it is.
The trunk is though as you found out.
You have two connectors on the control unit?
One is for the antenna wire.
The other connector has 5 wires.
black = ground So you should have continuity from this wire to the chassis.
purple/yellow = ground for trunk solenoid
pink = power So you should have 12 volts.
red/black = data line a
red/yellow = data line b
Check to see if theres power at the pink wire..
The signal wire(data line) to lock unlock and panic isn't a basic gound. I'm not sure what kind of signal it is.
The trunk is though as you found out.
You have two connectors on the control unit?
One is for the antenna wire.
The other connector has 5 wires.
black = ground So you should have continuity from this wire to the chassis.
purple/yellow = ground for trunk solenoid
pink = power So you should have 12 volts.
red/black = data line a
red/yellow = data line b
Check to see if theres power at the pink wire..



