4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.

I really need my keyless fixed

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 11, 2008 | 06:28 PM
  #1  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
I really need my keyless fixed

I have been key locking my doors for TOO long now. the remote does not work. the alarm does, just the remote(s) keyless entry/ etc. It intermittently was on and off and now its completely out. It is NOT the remote, i have tried unplugging/replugging in and even replacing the unit in the trunk...no luck. Checked the fuses...no luck there either.

this system can not be that complicated.

the only things I'm wondering is if it has anything to do with my rear defroster because the tint place screwed that up awhile back and i thought maybe the antenna for the remote ran through that or something. I dont know really but i want this to work.

someone has got to be familiar with this system. do relays just go bad? thats the only thing i havent replaced.

thanks
Old Feb 11, 2008 | 06:56 PM
  #2  
VANGtastic97's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 422
From: Harrisburg, PA
did you try reprogramming the remotes and replacing the batteries?
Old Feb 11, 2008 | 07:06 PM
  #3  
krismax's Avatar
Father of the 00 VI
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,323
From: amsterdam ,new york
this may sound stupid but i had this prob and i found out that i wasnt turning my key 100% back without taking it out and it wouldnt let the keyless work.

ignition wore over time and allowed this
Old Feb 11, 2008 | 07:09 PM
  #4  
maxx0831's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 765
From: Queens,NY
i wana ask a question a well abt this? If u have th ekeyless entry right but havent replace the battery inside the remote in abt like a year. DO u have to reprogram the the remote. Reason im askin is bc wen i bought my car the remote was with the keys but there was no battery, so i ought the battery but it still aint work so i simply thought the remote was broken
Old Feb 11, 2008 | 07:54 PM
  #5  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
Originally Posted by krismax
this may sound stupid but i had this prob and i found out that i wasnt turning my key 100% back without taking it out and it wouldnt let the keyless work.

ignition wore over time and allowed this
wait. your saying the ignition might not be turned back far enough? but would this make the alarm not work if i key locked the doors? cause it DOES work if i key lock the doors


and to whoever asked if i changed my remote battery and reprogrammed...yes...trust me.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 01:18 AM
  #6  
kaneda_77's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 254
From: Hawaii
Originally Posted by maxx0831
i wana ask a question a well abt this? If u have th ekeyless entry right but havent replace the battery inside the remote in abt like a year. DO u have to reprogram the the remote. Reason im askin is bc wen i bought my car the remote was with the keys but there was no battery, so i ought the battery but it still aint work so i simply thought the remote was broken
it's always good to try to reprogram a remote. I did both of mine today in about 3 minutes... it's SUPER easy. There's no harm in trying that first.

chillin, have you tried your relays and fusible links(Green 30a? Located in the fusebox by the battery)? sounds like it could easily be one of those. I will look in my box tomorrow and let you know where else to look if you need.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 04:50 AM
  #7  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
Originally Posted by kaneda_77
it's always good to try to reprogram a remote. I did both of mine today in about 3 minutes... it's SUPER easy. There's no harm in trying that first.

chillin, have you tried your relays and fusible links(Green 30a? Located in the fusebox by the battery)? sounds like it could easily be one of those. I will look in my box tomorrow and let you know where else to look if you need.
i havent tried the relays because i wasnt sure how to even check if they were bad. i have checked pretty much all the fuses though
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:27 AM
  #8  
UkiSash's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 144
From: Weth CT
Ive had the same problem. However i did the reprogramming and it didn't work? Any ideas? It'd be nice not having to open the car by key all the time not to mention the dead weight on my key chain would become use full once again.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:41 AM
  #9  
SexiiMaxii's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 581
From: Peoria, Arizona
When customers at my work have a problem with their keyless entry, we tell them to go to the parts center of the dealership (it's a Ford dealership). Apparently there is some kind of code on the keyless entry thing, and they are able to reprogram it. My only suggestion is to try to take your car to a Nissan dealership (or the like) and try that
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:47 AM
  #10  
UkiSash's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 144
From: Weth CT
Originally Posted by SexiiMaxii
When customers at my work have a problem with their keyless entry, we tell them to go to the parts center of the dealership (it's a Ford dealership). Apparently there is some kind of code on the keyless entry thing, and they are able to reprogram it. My only suggestion is to try to take your car to a Nissan dealership (or the like) and try that
might as well buy a whole new alarm system. I got quoted nearly $200 and they said that's just an estimate it might be more than that. Although if you have money to spend the stealership, i mean dealership is the best way to go.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 08:03 AM
  #11  
97SMG's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (23)
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 607
From: Chicago, IL
Originally Posted by SexiiMaxii
When customers at my work have a problem with their keyless entry, we tell them to go to the parts center of the dealership (it's a Ford dealership). Apparently there is some kind of code on the keyless entry thing, and they are able to reprogram it. My only suggestion is to try to take your car to a Nissan dealership (or the like) and try that
That would just be a waste of money.........We are able to re-program our remotes on our own.....
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 08:49 AM
  #12  
SexiiMaxii's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 581
From: Peoria, Arizona
^^I'm aware of that. But it seems he can't find the problem. It was just a suggestion guys.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 09:39 AM
  #13  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
thanks but im convinced that the answer is more likely to be found on these forums than at the dealership. ive got friends at the nissan dealership and that is just...not the place of maxima expertise.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 09:48 AM
  #14  
Fasteddie01's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 185
From: Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
I vote for krismax's answer. That happened to me too. I bought a new batt for the remote, and re-programmed. The clue for that is if the inside door lock switch won't allow you to lock . . . it kicks the lock tabs back open. BTW, does your trunk remote open the trunk, do you hear it trying to ?? That would show the remote is (probably) OK, especially if it's always worked.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 09:53 AM
  #15  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
I don't know if that is the right way to "test" if the ignition is worn (the tabs coming back open) because my car has done that as long as i can remember and I've heard of others' maximas doing it too.
But if this problem is due to the ignition, what did yall do about it?
Also, no my remote does not pop the trunk or even trigger the locking mechanism. Nothing works on it. I've bought a working remote and tried and nothing.
Originally Posted by Fasteddie01
I vote for krismax's answer. That happened to me too. I bought a new batt for the remote, and re-programmed. The clue for that is if the inside door lock switch won't allow you to lock . . . it kicks the lock tabs back open. BTW, does your trunk remote open the trunk, do you hear it trying to ?? That would show the remote is (probably) OK, especially if it's always worked.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 03:02 PM
  #16  
krismax's Avatar
Father of the 00 VI
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,323
From: amsterdam ,new york
no thats not what i mean .

theres something that lockes the key in and wont let it out if its not turned all the way back. but as the car got older the key came out without turning it all the way back.
you know the button to press to get the key out i didnt need to do that.

press the button and turn the back all the way. then take the key out and try keyless entry
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 03:25 PM
  #17  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
Originally Posted by krismax
no thats not what i mean .

theres something that lockes the key in and wont let it out if its not turned all the way back. but as the car got older the key came out without turning it all the way back.
you know the button to press to get the key out i didnt need to do that.

press the button and turn the back all the way. then take the key out and try keyless entry
i dont have a button to press. i dont even have to press the key inwards to pull it out. its always been like that though you just turn it back and take it out.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 03:34 PM
  #18  
krismax's Avatar
Father of the 00 VI
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,323
From: amsterdam ,new york
there should be a button on your colume .

thats my point you could be turning it and taking it out but it needs to be turned back 100% and button does this
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 03:46 PM
  #19  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
lol what year is your car? i've never had a button. i have a 95. the key turns all the way back to the "lock" position.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 03:52 PM
  #20  
krismax's Avatar
Father of the 00 VI
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,323
From: amsterdam ,new york
Originally Posted by chillin014
lol what year is your car? i've never had a button. i have a 95. the key turns all the way back to the "lock" position.
its a 96 even my ford focus had the button
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 03:54 PM
  #21  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
im tellin you man...i dont got the button. lol
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 04:09 PM
  #22  
HogMaxFan's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 114
From: Denver, CO
The "button" he is talking about is for cars with manual trans. Autos don't have that "button".
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 04:20 PM
  #23  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
then i dont have it because I have 5 speed swapped but the car was originally an auto
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 04:42 PM
  #24  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
a fellow orger brought it to my attention that this could be something 5speed swap related. I have the auto ecu still in there.

any swappers out there have problems?
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 05:09 PM
  #25  
kaneda_77's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 254
From: Hawaii
Originally Posted by chillin014
i havent tried the relays because i wasnt sure how to even check if they were bad. i have checked pretty much all the fuses though
it's very easy on fusible links... if the metal piece is broken... the fusible link blew. you can see them through the clear part of the casing. check those first then maybe research about the possibility of your missing button.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 06:21 PM
  #26  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
Originally Posted by kaneda_77
it's very easy on fusible links... if the metal piece is broken... the fusible link blew. you can see them through the clear part of the casing. check those first then maybe research about the possibility of your missing button.
yeah, i know how to check a fuse. i have checked them all. I was asking about the relays.

Im not missing a button, the car came that way, as all automatics do.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 06:49 PM
  #27  
BLACKonBLACK98's Avatar
Former Vendor
iTrader: (42)
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,414
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by chillin014
a fellow orger brought it to my attention that this could be something 5speed swap related. I have the auto ecu still in there.

any swappers out there have problems?
to elaborate, me and chris were brainstorming and this is what i came up with. because his car was originally an auto the key release was controlled by the park safety switch (correct?). now that he has swapped to a manual the bcm isn't getting the signal anymore causing the keyless entry/trunk to stay in "safe mode". any thoughts?

my solution was to either ground or power the wire that used to connect to the park safety switch, depenting on wether it is a positive or negative switch.
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:06 PM
  #28  
kaneda_77's Avatar
Member
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 254
From: Hawaii
Originally Posted by chillin014
yeah, i know how to check a fuse. i have checked them all. I was asking about the relays.

Im not missing a button, the car came that way, as all automatics do.
If it's not a result of the BUTTON that you are lacking because of the 5speed swap then make sure you check the GREEN fusible links. They aren't normal fuses. They're green in that fuse box by the battery. As for testing your relays, which are on the other side of the engine bay, there is a diagram on each relay that tells you whether it is open or closed. Even easier for you, they color code the same kind of relays... switch the ones of the same color...
Old Feb 12, 2008 | 07:07 PM
  #29  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
Originally Posted by kaneda_77
If it's not a result of the BUTTON that you are lacking because of the 5speed swap then make sure you check the GREEN fusible links. They aren't normal fuses. They're green in that fuse box by the battery. As for testing your relays, which are on the other side of the engine bay, there is a diagram on each relay that tells you whether it is open or closed. Even easier for you, they color code the same kind of relays... switch the ones of the same color...
sweet thanks. ill look for those green fuses next time im out there. dont remember seeing them before honestly.
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #30  
Maxima_Joe's Avatar
4th Gen Parts King
iTrader: (384)
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 7,759
From: Moorhead, MN
The antenna is in the rear window. It sounds like that is the problem.
It would be easy to check. The control unit in the trunk receives a signal and then sends a ground signal to that component. Take a look in the fsm and unplug the control unit and just ground the wire for each component. If that works for everything then the problem is either the unit,remote or the antenna.
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 11:51 AM
  #31  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
Thanks rockford. What do you mean by grounding the component wire, how would I do that? Just ground the harness coming straight to that module in the back?
If the antenna is bad how would I go about replacing that, is that something to do with the whole defroster?
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
The antenna is in the rear window. It sounds like that is the problem.
It would be easy to check. The control unit in the trunk receives a signal and then sends a ground signal to that component. Take a look in the fsm and unplug the control unit and just ground the wire for each component. If that works for everything then the problem is either the unit,remote or the antenna.
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 12:19 PM
  #32  
Maxima_Joe's Avatar
4th Gen Parts King
iTrader: (384)
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 7,759
From: Moorhead, MN
Originally Posted by chillin014
Thanks rockford. What do you mean by grounding the component wire, how would I do that? Just ground the harness coming straight to that module in the back?
If the antenna is bad how would I go about replacing that, is that something to do with the whole defroster?
Yes unplug the harness from the module and ground each pin/wire. I'm not sure what wire is which without looking at the fsm. The easiest one to do would be the one for the trunk.

I'm not sure about the antenna. It can be repaired but i think it would be easier to replace the window. It is part of the defrost/radio antenna,remote antenna. You may be able to wire up an aftermarket antenna.
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 12:28 PM
  #33  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
Yes unplug the harness from the module and ground each pin/wire. I'm not sure what wire is which without looking at the fsm. The easiest one to do would be the one for the trunk.

I'm not sure about the antenna. It can be repaired but i think it would be easier to replace the window. It is part of the defrost/radio antenna,remote antenna. You may be able to wire up an aftermarket antenna.
i hear you. I can only imagine how much a new rear window with defroster would cost...god. thats probably one of the most expensive parts on the whole car huh. why did they have to make the defroster on the surface.

i'm gonna go check it all out in a minute here

edit- i'd probably have to reprogram the remote since codes are erased from trying to reprogram it before. that requires hitting the lock button on the remote so i'd have to ground that one in order to even tell. just thinking this all out outloud.
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 12:36 PM
  #34  
Maxima_Joe's Avatar
4th Gen Parts King
iTrader: (384)
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 7,759
From: Moorhead, MN
Originally Posted by chillin014
i hear you. I can only imagine how much a new rear window with defroster would cost...god. thats probably one of the most expensive parts on the whole car huh. why did they have to make the defroster on the surface.

i'm gonna go check it all out in a minute here

edit- i'd probably have to reprogram the remote since codes are erased from trying to reprogram it before. that requires hitting the lock button on the remote so i'd have to ground that one in order to even tell. just thinking this all out outloud.
You should be able to get a window for around $200 installed.

No grounding the wire is the same thing the remote would be doing. So the remote doesn't need to be programed. Take a look at the fsm and find out which wire is what and test them out.
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 12:43 PM
  #35  
MaximaSpd85's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,630
From: Kissimmee, FL
mine works sometimes, you mentioned unplugging/plugging something in the trunk. whats back there/where is it?
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 12:48 PM
  #36  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
You should be able to get a window for around $200 installed.

No grounding the wire is the same thing the remote would be doing. So the remote doesn't need to be programed. Take a look at the fsm and find out which wire is what and test them out.
ohhh really? do you think the new windows still have the defroster face mounted rather than sandwiched in the glass or whatever?

and i understand what your saying about the grounds. thanks


maximaspd85- one time it wouldnt work at all and i unplugged the module in the trunk and plugged it back in and the keyless immediately worked again, i didnt even have to reprogram. unfortunately that trick doesnt work anymore for whatever reason.

kback to my investigating.

oh btw one of the fusible links was a little darker than the rest in the little window on top but i swapped it with the power window one and the power windows still worked so i guess its not bad. itd be broken completely if it was bad right?
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 04:11 PM
  #37  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
i grounded the trunk mechanism wire in the harness and it triggered it. I grounded all the other wires coming in there too but nothing more happened. I dont know what to conclude from this though? I couldnt find my second keyless box/unit. IM gonna get one from a junkyard and try that but i feel like its something to do with the defroster.
the fsm was just too confusing to figure anything out.

btw i have no antenna hooked up (shaved hole) but the wire is grounded if that matters.
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 05:13 PM
  #38  
Snypa's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 7,389
From: I-75 4th_Laud
damnn, this seems to be a hard one. im having similar problems,but i think your way better off than me.mine doesnt make any sound or even attempt to go into programming mode.so imma try unplugging the unit in the trunk, plug it in back and see what happens.i wanna make sure atleast programming mode is working before buying a keyfob.
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 05:27 PM
  #39  
chillin014's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (67)
 
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,601
From: houston tx
Originally Posted by Snypa
damnn, this seems to be a hard one. im having similar problems,but i think your way better off than me.mine doesnt make any sound or even attempt to go into programming mode.so imma try unplugging the unit in the trunk, plug it in back and see what happens.i wanna make sure atleast programming mode is working before buying a keyfob.
no, mine is the same. key fob wont program, nothing works.
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 05:42 PM
  #40  
Maxima_Joe's Avatar
4th Gen Parts King
iTrader: (384)
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 7,759
From: Moorhead, MN
Ok i took a look at the fsm for you.
The signal wire(data line) to lock unlock and panic isn't a basic gound. I'm not sure what kind of signal it is.

The trunk is though as you found out.

You have two connectors on the control unit?

One is for the antenna wire.

The other connector has 5 wires.
black = ground So you should have continuity from this wire to the chassis.
purple/yellow = ground for trunk solenoid
pink = power So you should have 12 volts.
red/black = data line a
red/yellow = data line b

Check to see if theres power at the pink wire..



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:52 PM.