rcintorino

So I was replacing the water pump on my 96 se, and while torquing it down (yes with a torque wrench), the head broke off one the bolts. Now the head fell into the timing chain case, and the bolt is still in the block.

What's the best way to fix it? take the engine out (because I'll have to drill out the bolt) or is there a way to do it in the car? I know I'll have to take the whole timing chain case cover off, along with the front oil pan, just to find that damn bolt head.

so now comes the question: Would it be worth it to do the 3.5L swap at this point?

I was thinking that might be a yes, because I believe I'll have to pull the engine out to drill out the bolt, and I'll have to remove the timing chain case cover to get the bolt head, which is half of the procedure for the 3.5L swap.

what do you guys suggest?

rcintorino

I found the bolt head! so I don't have to take the whole damn thing apart, now the question is, Can I drill out that bolt without removing the engine? or should I still do the 3.5L swap

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Did it break off flush with the inner timing cover? If not, you can just grab it with a pair of vice grips or something and twist it out. Failing that, an extractor.

Failing that, a punch and a hammer. Only after I tried those three methods would I pull the motor.

Timing cover is fairly easy, maybe an hour to do. It's mostly the little stuff that makes it such of a ***** job.

It's only worth it if you think it is. Do you already have a 3.5 ready to go? Can you afford to be without your car for (at the very least) a few days? Do you trust yourself to do everything correctly, and trust the reliability of a swap you've performed?

With the timing cover off, you may be able to get a small right-angle drill in there.

rcintorino

I'm going to try to drill it out when I get back from PA, unfortunately that won't be until saturday. my problem is that I think the passenger frame rail is in the way of me getting in there, but it's not going to hurt to try.

as for the swap, I've pulled motors and swapped both trannys and engine's before. I've got a beast of a 302 I'm building right now, (looking at 400+hp), so I think I could handle the swap. I figured if I had to do all that work, on my way home from PA I'd just stop in one of their junkyards and pick up a 3.5L, they have really good deals there.

as for being out of a car, I have a truck, but I'd much rather be driving the max *shrugs*, so that's a non issue.

mywhitewolf

i think it would almost be easier to get the engine block out than taking off the timing chain cover (power steering pump anyone?)

it took me about 2 days to take my cover off and put it back on again. (similar sort of thing happened to me, bolt snapped off (i now never torque the bolts to spec, they just break half the time).

rcintorino

so I finally got to work on my max today (****ty weather every time I had off) now they're a tiny piece of the bolt still sticking out, but not enough to grab onto. I really don't want to have to pull the motor out, is there any way other then to pull the motor to get this damn bolt out? when I get a chance I'm going to buy and easy out and a reverse threaded drill bit, but I can't fit a drill in there, so I'm going to hope it's loose enough to just unscrew, otherwise I"M screwed

Kbghdg

iTrader: (1)

Could you get this in there. http://www.toolbarn.com/product/bosch/1132VSR/?ref=base

Snypa

iTrader: (35)

try drilling it out carefully.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

This sounds goofy, but try a very carefully spread dab of jbweld to glue the head back on. Let it harden for 24h.

All you need to do is get that bolt to turn out - it should be no harder to turn than the friction in the threads.

Dave

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Definitely a good idea, that could work.

If you're looking to do it quickly and you have a welder, you could always weld a head onto the thread that are there, or just weld something on there that you can get a grip on with some vice grips.

Snypa

iTrader: (35)

sounds really good.hope he didnt tighten it to the max to begin with....or else its gonna need the same amount loosening it.

MaxGordon7

iTrader: (36)

what did you set the torque wrench 100 ft/lbs
Drinking and torquing don't mix!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Actually if it were fully torqued the moment the head popped the torque is gone.

The trouble is if the threads were burred or jamming or something and producing abnormally high torque before it even clamps down the part. Then you'd need to weld the head on.

Dave