Hey guys, ive had my 96 for a while and she has been good, but last night i was kinda low on gas so when i turned the motor over it did not start the first time, i waited a second then turned the key and kinda had to hold it for a second or two before it started turning over.

I have noticed it doing this sometimes, but i thought maybe i just did not turn the switch all the way, however last night it was clear that it had a delay or something when i turned the key. Anyone else had this problem? Sound like the switch or the starter?

 

sounds like the switch to me.

 

would a faulty switch ever trigger the immobilizer on a 99 and withought replaceing make the ecu stay in lock mode?

 

I've had a similar problem for a while, where sometimes the starter wouldn't even engage unless I tried 10 or 15 times. I replaced the ignition switch once, but that didn't fix it. After fooling around with a lot of other things, I settled on the ignition switch again. It looked like the problem is that the flange on the key cylinder doesn't push the switch quite far enough to engage, so instead of replacing the switch again, I put a little piece of electrical tape on the inside of the leading edge of the slot on the ignition switch. That makes it a little easier for the flange to push the switch all the way over. (Hard to explain, but easy to see if you're looking at the switch.) It' s been fine for a couple of months now (knock on wood...).

 

When you turn the key how long does it take for the car to start up? And do you have to hit the gas to get it to start?

 

do this.. remove the ignition switch.. and turn it it with the key if the car starts fine every time its the ignition switch.. if you still have to hold it its the starter relay...

 

On my 240, i had to hold the key in then wiggle it to start it.

Turns out it was the starter.

 

The ignition switch is supposed to be cheap and any easy replacement. Consider just replacing it and go from there. If it does not fix the problem then move on. When in doubt try the cheap and easy stuff first.

 

i have the same prob in the cold. i just replaced my ignition switch tonight so i will let u know if it helped me in a day or so. i have read a dirty iac or tb could be the culprit as well.

 

A dirty iac or tb may prevent starting but it would not prevent cranking. If starter does not crank it can be due to ignition, starter relay, faulty starter or bad connections in the starter circuit. Of course a dead battery will also prevent cranking.

 

Update here, turns out I think it's just the battery post. It did "click" on the first try today but the second time it cranked right up. AFter work it started on the first turn also. I cleaned the post and retightened them so I'll try it again tomorrow. thanks for all the input.

 

^
And as just updated, check grounds and battery connections, they are the easiest cheapest repairs you can do, and will eliminate them as a possiblity in the future (if you repair them correctly)

 

OK I had to bump this... I totaly replaced the battery posts, made sure everything was cleaned good and really tight. Got in and click click click everytime i turned the key, gave it a min. and it fired up. Cut it off and tryed again and it started fine. Checked the battery with a meter and it's getting good volts and charging. so starter motor maybe?? Has anyone else had this problem? I never know when it's gonna start anymore, getting old

 

i have the same problem but i'm also not sure what it could be.

 

Im thinking either grounds, starter, or maybe switch but i doubt that one.... Maybe someone here can agree

 

If you're getting the click from the starter solenoid, then chances are your switch is still good. My starter was clicking randomly (started doing it more often and required more & more attempts to start), and eventually one night it completely refused to start. It hasn't done it since I changed the starter.

I should add that re-greasing the starter worked for a couple of months, but the clicking problem returned and then the starter finally died. If I were you, I'd save myself the time and just install a replacement.

 

clicking sound? im not getting that so it must be my switch cuz it sometimes takes me to cranks to start my car. she's grounded and i just got a new optima battery and she has been starting at one try but i feel the problem will come back. were is the switch located?

thanks

 

. You not only have to check the connections at the battery posts also check the connection of the negative terminal of battery to the frame/ground of the car. also check the positive terminal connection at the starter. In addition check the ground connection of the starter motor. If any of these connections are bad you do not get enough current to turn the starter.

This does not sound like something caused by the ignition switch, if ignition switch was bad you would probably not get the clicking noise.

It's possible the starter is going bad, you can take it off and get it tested but I would check the other items first.

The clicking noise is the same as you get when someone runs down the battery due to leaving the lights on. There is not enough current available to turn the starter. Sounds like you have a similar problem. If you are certain the batttery is good I would suggest checking the items I mentioned.

 

If the starter is the original and the car has like 120K on it, and you plan to keep the car for a while it may be worth it to just change the starter. They don't last forever???

 

thats the problem, the starter is likely almost dead by now though

 

There are many posts on the org about 4th gens and grounding issues with the starters. If a starter is not properly grounded it would prevent it from getting adequate current. I believe this problem some times fixed by adding a ground wire from the starter to the trans. I don't neccessarily feel that this is the problem in this case but it is worth a try, its a cheap and easy fix.

 

Thanks guys for all your help, I did check the connections on the ground to the motor and the starter connections and there all good. It's cranking fine at the moment no clicking or anything but im going to look into getting a starter. When i bought it i noticed it had a remanufactured starter on it so someone replaced the oem one. That was in 03 and it now has 201k and has been driven almost everyday.

 

still check it out man.starter

 

Well she would not crank tonight when i was leaving work, finally after 10min. of clicking it decided it start. My dad seems to think it could be the starter relay?? Starter is trying to kick in just sounds like it's not getting enough volts.

 

Exact same problem I had with mine. The solenoid was clicking away but the starter just refused to turn. If you're in NY, I have a starter in perfect condition with about 500 miles on it that I'd sell for $40.

 

I literally had the same exact problem this past week I tried everything playing with the inhibitor relay and everything and you could here the starter solenoid click but the starter motor was seized and would not move enough to start the car. So after replacing the starter it now works perfectly. I would change the starter motor its your best bet I think, and you also get a new solenoid with it too. Now I get nice firm starts every day.

My .02...

 

Well after me and my dad played around with it he thinks it's not the starter because it turns over perfectly. He seems to think that it's a problem with the wiring somewhere in between the switch and starter. I'm just not sure. It started up 25 out of 30 times we tryed it, that's why whe don't think it's the starter. I may end up replacing it anyway just to rule that out however.

Does anyone know which of the relays is the starter motor relay? There are three relays side by side under the dash right next to the fuse panel.

 

the relay you want is in the panel right in front of the battery and it is labeled inhibitor, and when you look at the wiring in the factory manual you can find out which one is to start it. My dad and I thought the same thing as well when we did this we thought the wiring was bad also but we decided to swap it out anyway and we did and it worked perfectly and it is better than ever.

 

The clutch interlock or inhibitor relay (in the case of auto trans) are the only relays external to the starter that are part of the start circuit. I believe this relay is located in the front relay box under the hood, by the battery. Usually if it fails your starter will not turn at all. You can check this relay, just pull it out and inspect the contact of the relay and the socket that it fits into. Look for corrosion or damage. If you can locate another relay of the same color/type in one of the two relay boxes you may be able to swap it out as a test. I think it's a long shot but easy enough to check.

 

Awesome i really appreciate the help! I'll check it out.

 

I was having starting problems with the "crank, crank, rough starts". I figured that I would start with taking the starter apart (instructions from motorvate). Well after getting the starter greased up and everything back in, I turned the ignition switch - all the dashboards lights lit up normally, but nothing at starter, not even a click. Removed all the wire, figured the started was dead.

Bought a new starter and installed it. Turned the ignition key, but nothing.

Broke out the multimeter, checked all the fuses, nothing was blown. Opened the Haynes manual, trying to figure how power got to the starter. I checked the +ve lead to the starter and it had 12.35volts. Got a cable and connected the +ve terminal to the "start signal" contact and the starter cranked the engine. So somehow the starter is not getting the start signal.

Next tried to figure out how voltage got the start signal. Could not figure it out, till I read the post about the inhibitor relay. Checked it out looks okay.

Also, prior to replacing the starter, I did not have a problem getting the starter to crank, ie signal to the solenoid, it was only that the cranking was not strong.

I need some help. Could the ignition switch be bad and how would I test or is it the inhibitor relay and how would I test that it is working or not?

Thanks,

 

SAME PROBLEM HERE!!!!!!!!

I changed the starter motor last night. Nothing. Battery fine. But if I try to start the starter by placing a wire on the ground and the other wire on the wire with a clip (sorry don't know what it is) it starts up. I have an IGN issue.... I have no idea where to begin. Is there a fuse that I could have blown? .... Other .org member told me it could be the batt post, tightened it and still... nothing.

all out of ideas.

 

Sullal--

If you were cranking before (but poorly), the problem wasn't the ignition switch. If it didn't crank at all but the dash lights up, it could be. (You might have two unrelated problems--coincidence is a b****.) If it is the ignition switch, you may find that it works most of the time, then it won't do anything, then it will work again. See my post #4, I think a lot of these ignition switch problems aren't really the switch going bad.

You can expose the ignition switch (which is easy to do), then if the problem happens again, pull the switch out and use the key or a screwdriver in the slot on the switch itself. It will probably work. If it works every time, your problem is probably that the flange isn't pushing the switch far enough over.

Just be a little careful. Once you've got the switch exposed, it gets a lot easier to steal...

 

I broke out the multimeter, Haynes manual and the Maxima Service Manual and started testing. Started with the thought that there were only two components betwen the battery and the starter. The ignition switch and the inhibhitor relay.

- The ignition switch was not bad. Got voltage at the inhibhitor relay pins 1 and 6 when the key was turned to the start position.
- Took a wire from the battery +ve terminal and touched the solenoid and the starter cranked the engine, ie the starter is good. It is new.

Next the inhibhitor relay is bad
The inhibhitor relay has six pins
Pins 1 & 2 - power goes to the inhibhitor switch which is connected to the ground
Pins 6 & 7 - which go from the ignition switch to the started solenoid.
Pins 3 & 4 - which goes to the ASCD. Automatic speed control device

- Went to the junk yard and pulled a couple of relays - plugged them in, but still no click at the solenoid or starter cranking.
- pulled out the inhibhitor relay and connected a wire between pins 6 and 7. Turned the key and the car started right up.

Questions
- Can the three relays be bad?
- Is there a way to test a relay?
- How could the inhibhitor switch go bad.

All I did was replace the starter. Is there any truth to the adding a ground theory, eventhough the car starts when I short pin 6 & 7 on the inhibhitor relay.

I need help with the above and possible issues with the diagnosis.

Thanks,

 

if u havent changed the started u can prolly change it now lol. get one off ebay 100 bucks with shipping put it on urself ur just gona have to remove your whole air intake system to get to it. other then that should not take you more then 30 min get some wd 40 i broke 3 ratchets trying to take off the last bolt.

 

I changed the starter and that when the issue started. I am not getting power to the solenoid. The power stops at the inhibhitor relay.

 

Okay, I finally figured it out. The relay was not working, even though I had voltage at the correct pins. I grounded the coil pin #3 and immediately the starter cranked. Figured it was the inihibitor switch which was not providing a ground for pin #3. I followed the wiring (orange green) and one connector by the battery and on below the air intake (by the starter). It was disconnected. I connected it and the car started right up...

Let me know if anyone needs a spare inhibitor relays for testing, if you are having problems starting. I have two spare relays.

Thanks to all.

 

I have just bought a 1997 Nissan Maxima on June 9. I have replaced the starter and the battery. Every time I turn the key it will hit hard and will turnover halfway every time, and then the starter spins. i have spent hours at advanced auto parts, and everyone is out of ideas. i need some serious help.

 

hmm sounds bad

 

Can you elaborate on this "Every time I turn the key it will hit hard and will turnover halfway every time, and then the starter spins. "

Some basics that I have learnt from various posts;

1. Follow the cable from the negative terminal to the point at which it grounds to the engine block and make sure that the connections are clean.

2. Between the battery and the point on the starter that triggers the solenoid is the ignition switch and the inhibitor relay.

3. To check if the ignition switch is good. Remove the inhibitor relay and test as follows;

- With the key in the "ON" position you should get 12.XX volts at pin 1 of the inhibitor relay.
- With the key in the "Start" position you should get 12.XX volts at pin 6 of the inhibitor relay.

If you get the above two voltages, then the ignition switch is good. The issue then lies between the relay and the solenoid.