yea i cant c either

 

I have a question, where did you fill the transmission at? And how did you get the throwout bearing out?

 

there is a fill bolt in the front of the transmission. Like in front of the battery and follow dowward. 1/2 socket fits in there...


gotta pull the trans to get the throw out bearing, once the trans is off just wiggle it off. Well really angle it forward and that metal pin (use a light to help) just in un seat the pin and it will come off.

 

thank you and if the fill bolt is on the front of the transmission how did you fill it and what type of transmission fluid did you use

 

GL-4 only on the 4th gen trans. Just how ever you can macgyer it in with out making a mess. once it starts to spill out its full.

4.5 qts should fill it.

Me the bottle I had, had like a spout and could fit into the opening so I could pour out most of it before it got full.

 

alright man thanks a lot Im in the middle of replacing the clutch now any tips?

 

in the middle meaning? trans off?

 

yea just got the clutch out

 

clean mating surfaces
all the places that need re greasing, wipe it down and apply fresh new grease.
dont forget the tq sequence for the pressure plate
use the clutch alignment tool

dont forget to tighten all the bolts.

umm...I think thats everything...going off memory. Careful when putting the trans back on. Put some lube on the end of the input shaft to help with re-installation.

is this your first time doing it?(I assume so)

 

alright got it thanks And yea it is

 

cool. just post up if you have any questions.


getting the trans on can be frustration.

push it up so its level with the center on the clutch. if it does not go in. pull it down rotate the input shaft a bit and try again. Once the grooves are lined up and the tranns is up and lined up enough and level it should slide in easy.

this may make more sense when you try it out...

 

alright thanks for all the info, and trust me if i run into trouble ill ask haha

 

lol...sure....

 

Anyone know the flywheel torque specs for the VQ35DE? Couldn't find a write up for flywheel install just need torque specs.

 

great write up thanks im going to be replacing the clutch and t.o.b and stuff in my 96 very soon this is deffinately gettin saved in my favorites

 

really great guide but we can't see the picture for some reason, at least me and a couple others. maybe you could email me the pictures it would greatly help to have a bit of visuals.

Thank you very much

 

Looks like a good thread to ask:
Please HELP.
I cannot remove the right side drive shaft. M/T.

Here is view from undernearth:


By gd420mj at 2011-04-08

Here is view of bearing support bolted to engine. Do I have to remove these three screws? I removed the three 14mm around the shaft on the bearing support.


By gd420mj at 2011-04-08

FSM shows prying with screw driver. The FSM sucks here (and all around imho). It does not detail what if any bolts to remove. It just says, remove right side drave shaft. umm, really, how?

FSM instruction:



I pulled the driver's side right out, and everything else is loose. This is the only thing holding me up from removing trans. so I can do my clutch.

 

Judging from this picture, the support bearing and its retainer stay with the drive shaft. But how do I get the retainer out of the bracket as seen in the second photo. HOW DO I GET ITEM 22 out of 23??. Pretty rusty under there. There is very little room to work with there. The exhaust is directly to left of this. It seem it would be easier to take out eh three bolts holding the entire bracket, item 23. I have abour 12 hours before I work on this again.

ANY HELP would be MUCH appreciated.


By gd420mj at 2011-04-08



By gd420mj at 2011-04-08

 

There are 3 12mm bolts that hold it in, that's it, once you remove those bolts the axle just comes right out... unlike that driver side axle... grrrrr....





DSA = Driver Side Axle, I will be saying it a lot so I shortened it.

OH YAH! I don't know if anyone has already mentioned it but here are some Driver Side Axle tips....

When dropping the tranny you don't need to take out the DSA, in the last month I've dealt with 3 that could not be taken out while in the car without the fear of yanking the car off of jack stands.

Now be warned, if all else fails, you can try what I've done in the past below, but these aren't the reccomended/safe/smart way of doing things, it's more of a "GET THE JOB DONE" type of thing....

What I did when mine was stuck.....

Disassembled the DSA by accident cause I yanked on it too hard, so don't yank on it without supporting the CV joint, or you'll be using motorvate.ca's how to on how to RnR an axle.

Kept yanking on it with the axle shaft in half, at this point in time my 5spd was already junked so I've yanked it so hard i picked up the tranny, kept yanking and slamming the tranny on the ground until the axle came free.

^ NOT RECCOMENDED IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR DSA OR TRANSMISSION

Next option:

Drop transmission
Take an old throw out fork, pry it in the spot between the axle and tranny, then take a hammer, whack it and it comes out. Be careful, sometimes this can damage your rubber axle seal, it's only a few bucks so buy one in backup and be ready to replace it, ALSO WARNING! Depending on how you hit it, watch out because the fork will come flying out like an angry ninja!

Final option in desperation:
Take a long screw driver, put it in on the passenger side axle hole, I would cover the screwdriver with something because you don't want metal shavings in your tranny, while wacking the screw driver with a hammer, have a friend with another hammer resume prying out the axle with your throw out fork on the other side.

Those are the 3 ways I've removed stubborn DSA's!! But if you're just doing a clutch job, you can leave it in lol.

 

Seems I am the other way around. my DSA cam out easy. (190k miles on it). I just yanked on it and it came out. Thus proceeding to pour gear lube all over my garage floor. (I didn't know that was going to happen. My first DS removal)

For the pass. side, I took out the three 12mm bolts. Still cant loosen it. I tried pulling, prying near trans where I knocked loose the dust cover...

Just wont budge.

 

This help to show you where to pry with the screwdriver?







So, you shouldn't have to take those other 3 bolts out, but if all else fails you might have to.
hit the part near the bolts you already took out with lots of PB blaster or liquid wrench or something like that, and hit it a couple times

 

It's a tight one, the 1st time. LOL, that sounded bad huh? So you're gonna hafta hit it. Yes, that sounds bad too.

I used a long, big (man, this post is going to he11) screwdriver (when will this end?), put the flat tip (gosh) against the part where you removed the 3 screws, and whack away. Basically trying to rotate that thing within the housing to break it free. You're gonna hafta shock it somehow if prying doesn't work.

I've never thought of doing the screwdriver from the driver side input opening. Hopefully any metal shavings that break off (doubt it) will get flushed out when you pour the rest of the axle fluid out.

Good luck.

Dr J

 

I got it out. Thanks for the inputs. I used a large heavy bolt and kept Whacking! it HARD!! until it started to turn. Then varying screwdrivers. Started small just to get it seperated. I found a small piece of steel I had looked like it was used for prying/wedging. Just kept working it till it seperated. Was nice and rusty. Will go back together with anti-sieze.
Just got the tranny out after missing not one but two bolts. The last one, I thought I had, was up in back near the right drive shaft opening.

QUESTION for ya'll. I ordered an exidy clutch from amazon for $120. The pressure plate looks good. Fly wheel looks good. (Clutch was slipping for kinda bad for a month or two. Been starting to slip since about Nov. Dec. Just took it easy. Worst was in highway in 4th and 5th try to accel.). Funds are tight, Can I get away with just a clutch disc? I can get oem disc here: http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...ponentsIndex=0

I'd rather spend the other money on axles. Since they been clicking for a few years now.

The disc I pulled out had six springs in it. All the photos I see if clutch discs have 4 springs. Are these just stock photos? Is more springs better? I thought I read somehere about 4,5 spring discs.

 

Since the title says PIC intensive. Some pics:

Pass Side Drive Shaft, rust on bearing houing.

By gd420mj at 2011-04-09

Before pulling trans:

By gd420mj at 2011-04-09

Trans Out:

By gd420mj at 2011-04-09

Trans

By gd420mj at 2011-04-09

Flywheel

By gd420mj at 2011-04-09

Pressure Plate:

By gd420mj at 2011-04-09

Disc:

By gd420mj at 2011-04-09

 

I probably missed it, but did you do anything with the flywheel? New flywheel? Resurfaced?
Dr J

 

I am doing nothing with the fly wheel. Looks good. Feels good. Cannot feel any ridges on it. I always drove my clutch easy and care full. I will just emery cloth it. Thats it.

More pics of oem nissan disc:


By gd420mj at 2011-04-09


By gd420mj at 2011-04-09


By gd420mj at 2011-04-09

 

where are those pics?

 

What do you mean where? website? physical location?

 

Just thought I update with a few pics and reviews of theEXEDY 06044 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit.

Trans Cleaned and new bearing installed and greased:







EXEDY DISC:






EXEDY Pressure Plate / Cover






SCuffed Flywheel. (Just wanted to break the glaze)


Installed:




work area:


Going Up. This method was unsucessful in lining up the trans. Wound up puting trans on flat wooden board (some 2"x12" stock) and shimming in various palces to get it to align:


IN:

 

I don't particularly like this clutch. First thing I noticed was how little force is required to press pedal. Maybe its the fact that everything is cleaned and greased, or the pressure plate is just really light. Much easier to puch than the oem setup. Too easy.
Secondly, after adjusting the clutch pedal free play at the master cylinder push rod, the clutch still grabs too far from the floor. About half way up. I don't like this at all. Even when my oem clutch was slipping, it grabbed closer to the floor.

The clutch doesn't really engage smooth. It chatters, especially at slow speeds, like creeping in traffic. And because it engages so high, its hard to ease in.

Any one else have any thoughts ont his exedy clutch? I bought based on recommendations I read here about it. I think it sucks, and wish I had bought just an oem disc, and not the kit. Maybe the chatter will ease out after a break in period, but I don't see any way I can fix teh engagment point. The push rod on teh master cyl. is jsut about at it's limit (all the way unthreaded)

 

There's a few threads about chatter, do a quick search on that.
Dr J

 

After my clutch job, I had issues with the slave cylinder getting air in it. Ended up replacing lower hose which had been leaking before hand (very slow leak). Bleeding it was a REAL pain, there are 2 bleeders to deal with.. After it was back together, the clutch was a bit grabby for the first few hundred miles, now it is perfect... I also had the flywheel resurfaced... I used an OEM clutch from clutchcity online, made by exedy...

 

Bleed the system?

 

Hello, I am new here and found this post on how to replace the clutch. The steps look easy to follow but I am unable to see the photos. I would be very grateful if there was a way to repost the photos or email them to me. This will be my first attempt for doing something like this on a vehicle and seeing what it is that I am supposed to be doing will be a great help.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

 

+1 for wanting the pics. Anybody have them?