Engine cutting out while driving
Engine cutting out while driving
I have a 96' Max with 192k on it. Recently the cars MIL light came on and has started cutting out/losing power abruptly while driving. The problem often persists for 5-20 seconds and during that time the car only gets "bursts" of power. Also if I push the clutch in the car will sometimes die and have difficulty restarting. I got some codes on it and they are as follows:
P0100 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit
P0325 - Knock Sensor 1
Circuit (Bank 1)
Any suggestions or ideas as to what the problem might be would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Oh, one more thing I just noticed is that I can hear a hissing noise coming from underneath the car when its running It almost sounds like air leaking out of a tire but I only hear it when the car is on and it gets louder with higher revs.
Jason
P0100 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit
P0325 - Knock Sensor 1
Circuit (Bank 1)
Any suggestions or ideas as to what the problem might be would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Oh, one more thing I just noticed is that I can hear a hissing noise coming from underneath the car when its running It almost sounds like air leaking out of a tire but I only hear it when the car is on and it gets louder with higher revs.
Jason
Last edited by JasonR107; May 24, 2008 at 07:11 PM.
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but just a hint you will more than likely have to replace both the knock sensor and the maf.
also if you are hearing a hissing sound its more than likely a vaccum of some sort. spray some carb cleaner and try to pin point where it is sucking in. it could also be the reasoning behind why you are getting a maf cel
but just a hint you will more than likely have to replace both the knock sensor and the maf.
also if you are hearing a hissing sound its more than likely a vaccum of some sort. spray some carb cleaner and try to pin point where it is sucking in. it could also be the reasoning behind why you are getting a maf cel
Uhhhhhh, it would have to be a maf from a max. (or other nissan that uses the same maf) The knock sensor needs changed but that should be on the bottom of your short list as it will not cause the problems you are experiencing.
The engine cutout is due to MAF failure (fuel cut if RPM is above 2400). Don't worry about the knock sensor for now.
Before replacing the MAF, you can do the following first:
1. Clean the MAF. There is a spay can from CRC to clean the MAF.
2. Clean the MAF wiring harness connector with electrical cleaner. Make sure the connector is pushed in all the way and lock.
3. Clean the engine ground. There are engine ground points in the middle of the engine, near the upper intake manifold. These two ground points are near the front three fuel injectors.
4. Add a ground wire for the MAF wiring harness. The middle wire (black) is the ground wire. Easiest way is to splice a ground wire to the engine ground point (#3 above) and the MAF.
If you have a OBDII scanner, use it to see if the MAF can still measure airflow. Airflow is one of those operation data that can be read.
Before replacing the MAF, you can do the following first:
1. Clean the MAF. There is a spay can from CRC to clean the MAF.
2. Clean the MAF wiring harness connector with electrical cleaner. Make sure the connector is pushed in all the way and lock.
3. Clean the engine ground. There are engine ground points in the middle of the engine, near the upper intake manifold. These two ground points are near the front three fuel injectors.
4. Add a ground wire for the MAF wiring harness. The middle wire (black) is the ground wire. Easiest way is to splice a ground wire to the engine ground point (#3 above) and the MAF.
If you have a OBDII scanner, use it to see if the MAF can still measure airflow. Airflow is one of those operation data that can be read.
Thank you all for the replies. I got some spray today and tried cleaning the MAF. I'll let you all know if that worked, otherwise I guess I'll be making a trip to the salvage yard as Checkers wants $220 for a new MAF.
That sucks... I usually buy parts from rockauto.com and they usually give the best prices, but their price for a remanifactured MAF is 231 + shipping. Damn, looks like the wreckyard would be the best option after all. Hope you manage to get a good one, and make a writeup for the rest of us who have never swapped MAF's
Amazing how almost everyone ignores the obvious. The hissing sound means you have a vacuum line that has fallen off or broken. If that line is connected downstream of the MAF (likely) it will completely mess up your fuel/air metering. Find where the hissing sound is coming from and fix the vac line before doing anything else.
After cleaning the MAF I don't seem to be experiencing any more problems. I simply bought the cleaning spray, sprayed the hell out of it and put it back in. So far no engine codes have popped and the engine runs great.
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