I have heard almost a 50/50 split on whether or not to use gasket sealer in addition to the ruber valve cover gaskets on the 97 max. What do you guys know? Also, how do i judge how tight to screw in the bolts so that the gasket doesnt end up too compresses or not enough? TIA

Use RTV liquid gasket at the four corners near the timing chain. Torques the bolts in two steps. 1st step at 9 - 26 in-lb, 2nd step at 47 - 65 in-lb. Note: the value is in in-lb, bit ft-lb.

I used the blue RTV Liquid Gasket when I replaced mine.

FSM says use liquid gasket only on the corners by the timing cover and torque to spec.

I used high temp orange gasket, some more at the corners and a thin layer on the whole edge of the CH. I torqued the bolts by hand, not too tight, not to loose, when the wrench stopped went 1/4 more. No leaks so far.

PS: first time I did this I used blue gasket only at the corners, and had some leaks.

Like stated above, the FSM directs you to use RTV in the corners, I would also recommend a light strip all the way around. It won't hurt, just make sure you actually torque the bolts using a torque wrench, I know some people say it is pointless, but you can never do a good job unless you actually torque to spec. Either rent one at autozone or buy a cheap one at Harbor Freight, they are actually decent quality.

I like red RTV, permatex is a good brand, it is high temp and flexible enough for the application.

1st try- I did it as per fsm -and it leaked worse than before so 2nd time I put a light
film of Permatex gray all the way around on top of the gasket -stuck it into the groove-
and put a light film on the bottom of the entire end (timing chain side) and then an additional bead maybe 1 1/2" at the corners again at the Tc end . Torqued it ever so
carefully in two steps as mentioned by unclemax98 and left the Permatex dry overnight
and both vc covers have stayed completely dry since (about 10 k miles).
(just make sure INCH POUNDS not FOOT POUNDS)

so what can happen (bad) if you overtorque those bolts?

I have run for about 2 years now with no liquid gasket on my rear valve cover gasket. I don't remember there being any there when I took the old one out either

...??
they'll snap, might squish that gasket too much and start leaking again.

The factory applies liquid gasket at the corners on the timing chain side.
I could clearly see it when I took the valve covers off and this was the
first time the covers were ever off (I'm the original owner) and it's specified
in the fsm.

what would you rate the difficulty of this? my UIM has what looks like alot of blowback from my valve cover...

For the front? 20 minutes. 10mm socket and ratchet, and a pair of pliers to get that breather hose off.

Regasket, RTV, throw it back on. Extremely simple job.

FWIW, I only use a torque wrench when doing motor builds, 99% of everything else can be done by feel, impact, or impact + torque sticks.

Oh, I don't doubt it. Just saying I never noticed it, and also sharing my experience with one WITHOUT any sealant for the past few years.

thanks man. im guessing the back one is the difficult one since ive been reading you have to take a bunch of stuff off....

Eh, UIM (so EGR and support brackets, plus intake throttle cables, wiring harness, PCV, etc, then I always remove the IACV to get to the EGR bolts much easier), then it comes right off.

Not too hard if you've got the right tools and a bit of time on your hands.

If you are doing the rear valve cover, I would recommend using a cable hose clamp plier like the one here:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...pecialty+Tools

Make sure you get the manifold gaskets also, as long as you label and take your time, it is not as hard as you think.

I'd say probably a couple hours if you know what you're doing. The stock 4th gen manifold is annoying to get off, I'm going to miss having my 00VI off in like 5 minutes

That's why I've got EGR blocked off, removing EVAP, and the support brackets are gone.

4 bolts, a wire harness, throttle cables and intake piping, and the UIM will pop right off.

I'm new here and am having my mechanic change my plugs. If there is oil on them, then I'm assuming the valve cover is leaking...correct? Hopefully my rear one isn't bad...

wow, your getting your spark plugs changed by a mechanic?
dude, it takes like 10 minutes to change em out. and if theres oil of the plug, its your tube seal

lol...funny guy.....
also, i put the valve cover gasket on and put some of that gasket sealer and put everything on....i drove for like 2 months and relized i messed up on the spark plug area so i took my front one off again, and like 3" of my valve cover gasket was missing.... 3 inches!!!
i looked into the head, nothing, and behind by the fuel injectors, nothing....WTF? but i changed it again....but now that i replaced it and put NGK's, i fell in love all over with my car....execpt the body part....still messed up

so ima need the valve cover gasket, UIM gasket, IACV gasket?

how did you mess up on the plug area? and how did you miss 3'' of vc gasket!?
do you over tighten it or something?

That would be the best way to go, yes. Ideally, you'd only need the first...the UIM-LIM gasket is thick rubber, and I've reused mine many many times without any leaks, and the IACV gasket is metal...also not too prone to leaking. If you plan to reuse be sure to check the gaskets you are reusing to make sure they look alright.

so this is why im replacing my vc gasket. it looks bad but i did my oil and filter and i had 4 1/2 quarts so i was only missing a 1/4 of a quart?

Doesn't look like any appreciable amount of oil, less than a tenth of a quart.

should i clean it b4 i do the work so no gunk gets in my valves and stuff?

Might as well spray off the area to keep grit from getting down into the head.

ok thanks. am i gonna need any specialty tools or will a 99-piece husky pro socket kit and some no name wrenches be enough?

Are you just doing the front valve cover?

no i want to do both. im not worried about the front tho. back one is wat scares me. lol

For the front, ratchet, 6" extension, 10mm socket. Easy.

For the rear, ratchet, 6" extension, 12mm and 10mm sockets (short or deep 12mm, short will work best overall), flathead.

Remove intake hose, IACV (much easier access to EGR bolts), two 12mm head EGR bolts, 2 12mm head intake manifold support bracket bolts, 4 12mm head fasteners on the front of the manifold, then unbolt PCV, throttle cable bracket, wiring harness brackets. Move wiring harness to lay over by the PS reservoir, lift UIM out of the way. From there, same as the front.

ok, i actually jus printed ur post. yea i know lame.. but hopefully it goes right.

lol, good stuff, good stuff!

yea i also printed the how-to i found so i can highlight the stuff im doin to make sure i dont miss anytn.... im so chicken/scared...