99 GLE Knock Sensor
#1
99 GLE Knock Sensor
My mech told me its going to cost around $900 to replace the KS and wiring becuase it is a tough fit to get to the sensor.
He already gave me the "well we spent an hour and a half reading the codes and other stuff" line.
Am I getting screwed with this estimate?
He already gave me the "well we spent an hour and a half reading the codes and other stuff" line.
Am I getting screwed with this estimate?
#2
You're not getting screwed, you're getting raped. Read the stickys, there is a link in there that tells you how to repalce the KS on a99. It's a bit more difficult than other 4th gen years, but no way in hell I would pay 900$ for it.
Part cost 100$, new gaskets, etc, 50$ (MAX), new KS harness 20$. An hour or 2 of your time =
I would suggest either a a Haynes / Chilton / FSM.
Part cost 100$, new gaskets, etc, 50$ (MAX), new KS harness 20$. An hour or 2 of your time =
I would suggest either a a Haynes / Chilton / FSM.
#3
Ok, I got the car back in my posession, but after reviewing the links and picures, and actually SEEING where this thing is located in my engine, there is NO WAY I can do it myself.
Which sadly leaves me to the mechanic's mercies, and all 3 I called want to take the manifold off to do it. Plus they all want to charge me $200 for the KS.
Is there a list of friendly Max Mechanics that might want to do the job for me?
Which sadly leaves me to the mechanic's mercies, and all 3 I called want to take the manifold off to do it. Plus they all want to charge me $200 for the KS.
Is there a list of friendly Max Mechanics that might want to do the job for me?
Last edited by FastTimes; 06-10-2008 at 03:21 PM.
#7
My Maxima is a 99 CA spec. I removed the swirl valve actuator and the lever arm plus a few misc things, and was able to replace the KS w/o removing the upper and lower IM's. Not a very easy task, but I did it in about 2 hours.
This tool helped me do the job......
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100029685
The head can be titled at an angle, so that the head is parallel to the ground, while the extension is at the perfect angle for you to work. The extension also can be extended by pulling on the circular donut you see in the pic to give you extra leverage and length (about another 6").
And, after you position the handle to the right angle, you can 'lock it' with a push of a button (the small black circle you see approximately in the middle of the ratchet)
And it's guranteed for life. This tool rocks. A must have.
Go to Home Depot and check it out.
This tool helped me do the job......
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100029685
The head can be titled at an angle, so that the head is parallel to the ground, while the extension is at the perfect angle for you to work. The extension also can be extended by pulling on the circular donut you see in the pic to give you extra leverage and length (about another 6").
And, after you position the handle to the right angle, you can 'lock it' with a push of a button (the small black circle you see approximately in the middle of the ratchet)
And it's guranteed for life. This tool rocks. A must have.
Go to Home Depot and check it out.
#8
You can remove the KS with a 3/8 inch swivel attachment on a 3/8" ratchet extension using a 12mm socket. It's a NO brainer. In fact, if you want you can just disconnect the wire from the old one and place the new one on top of the intake manifold and wire it in. There is a hole that it can bolt down to and you seriously don't need a KS unless you drive like a moron and your engine is a piece of crap.
The KS has nothing to do with timing advance or performance--it is ONLY used for timing retardation for anti-knock. The FSM states (pg EC-20)"the Knock Sensor retard system is designed only for emergencies. The basic ignition timing is programmed within the anti-knocking zone. If recommended fuel is used the retard system doesn't operate under normal driving conditions".
That means that the ECM is programmed to run timing that won't damage the engine if all is well with your engine. If your engine knocks there is something that needs to be fixed. It's a failsafe mechanism to keep you from blowing your engine when you don't take proper care of it.
I have a 95 max and 96 I 30 with 165k and 95k miles respectively. BOTH cars have their KS on the intake manifold and I've NEVER had any engine ping/knock. I run the right octane and my cars are tuned and maintained to as close to perfection as possible.
The KS has nothing to do with timing advance or performance--it is ONLY used for timing retardation for anti-knock. The FSM states (pg EC-20)"the Knock Sensor retard system is designed only for emergencies. The basic ignition timing is programmed within the anti-knocking zone. If recommended fuel is used the retard system doesn't operate under normal driving conditions".
That means that the ECM is programmed to run timing that won't damage the engine if all is well with your engine. If your engine knocks there is something that needs to be fixed. It's a failsafe mechanism to keep you from blowing your engine when you don't take proper care of it.
I have a 95 max and 96 I 30 with 165k and 95k miles respectively. BOTH cars have their KS on the intake manifold and I've NEVER had any engine ping/knock. I run the right octane and my cars are tuned and maintained to as close to perfection as possible.
#11
My Maxima is a 99 CA spec. I removed the swirl valve actuator and the lever arm plus a few misc things, and was able to replace the KS w/o removing the upper and lower IM's. Not a very easy task, but I did it in about 2 hours.
This tool helped me do the job......
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100029685
The head can be titled at an angle, so that the head is parallel to the ground, while the extension is at the perfect angle for you to work. The extension also can be extended by pulling on the circular donut you see in the pic to give you extra leverage and length (about another 6").
And, after you position the handle to the right angle, you can 'lock it' with a push of a button (the small black circle you see approximately in the middle of the ratchet)
And it's guranteed for life. This tool rocks. A must have.
Go to Home Depot and check it out.
This tool helped me do the job......
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100029685
The head can be titled at an angle, so that the head is parallel to the ground, while the extension is at the perfect angle for you to work. The extension also can be extended by pulling on the circular donut you see in the pic to give you extra leverage and length (about another 6").
And, after you position the handle to the right angle, you can 'lock it' with a push of a button (the small black circle you see approximately in the middle of the ratchet)
And it's guranteed for life. This tool rocks. A must have.
Go to Home Depot and check it out.
#16
Takes about an hour to replace, KS on ebay for less than $50. Unless you have small hands, use and extension to get under the intake manifold. My GF was able to slide her hand in the small space and even broke free the bolt (not very tight).
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