hey guys, i just blew the motor in my 96, and i was wondering what would i need to do a dek swap, i already ordered the motor it was only 425, i just want to know is it easier to remove my motor and place the new one in from the top or from the bottom? i know if i do it from the top i would have to get a cherry picker, but if i get it from the bottom how would i get the motor back up? and also what i would have to do with the injectors, and i know i have to take off the swirl valves. if anyone else has done a dek swap or has some information about doing the swap let me know.. thanks

 

Hmm just wondering how do you know you blew your motor? Also if you do a search it will yield you any info on a dek swap. I personally do them from the top since i dont have a lift nor do i want to jack the front of the car high enough to drop it out the bottom. Its not that hard to do from the top. I say search a lil more and you will find the info for the dek.

 

how did you blow it.?

 

i cannot find any information on doing a complete swap, only information on a 00vi swap really, i know i blew my motor because when I start it i hear one of the piston rings scraping, clunking and its basically about to go down, im sure its gone... my brother had a similar noise in his camry about 2 weeks ago and i told him his motor was going to blow and little did it blow right after i told him that.

 

I would look into it a little before biting the bullet and putting a new engine in. How did this "knocking" develop? You misshift or overrev badly? You still might be able to salvage the engine, considering you have already gone to a VI.

 

my options were either to put a regular usim vq30 back in it, and just do a 00vi swap or just get the DE-K and i just chose to get the de-k

 

but i already came to the conclusion to just swap the motor out instead of disassembling this one and replacing the guts, (rods and pistons)

 

Well the motor is the same there is no difference. They are the same motor minus the intake so really the install will be the same. All you will have to change will be the intake and the injector clips.

 

i think it came from revving, a couple of friends had a revving competition one night, i came out on top, but it wasnt worth it....

 

so if you know which components will i need to swap over to the dek?

 

I'm at this point also but I think I'm going to get a vq30de in case I race in any events I can say its not a motor swap. Where did you get your motor? Also I think there are some sensors you have to switch over but I'm not completely sure.

 

Heres more info http://forums.maxima.org/6009628-post17.html

 

thanks, but yeah i got it off ebay.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...p-dummies.html

 

should i take the tranny out first? or take it out with the motor? which one would be easier??

 

any suggestions?

 

Most people declare a "blown" engine after a compression check. Sounds to me like you could be oblivious to the real problem due to your excitement to drop in a new engine. If you were serious about swapping the engine you'd invest in a shop manual, and not expect to get specific directions through a thread like this.

Revving competition? What are you, 16?

 

vq30de+00vi < dek swap

wrong.
http://forums.maxima.org/4449539-post18.html

(difference is minimal but still, its there)

 

yeah if you swap in the dek i would put in the de cams.

dek< de cams

Also depending on the dek you might have to delete your egr. when i got my dek there was no egr.

 

My thoughts exactly - did you even do a compression check? How many miles on your OEM? How many on the DE-K? (or, what did they tell you anyway ???) Are you going to use the intake you have now, and if so, is it an 00vi, MEVI, or stock ??? Just because you hear a bad sound, doesn't mean you have to do a swap right off the bat. Wouldn't it be funny if it was just your TC tensioner ??? lol All I can say on it is good luck!

I'd pull the engine and tranny as a whole, will be much easier and less time consuming than the other way. Have fun with that rear mount, hope you got lloonngg extensions (or at leat some to add up to 30" or so) Make sure you get all the electrical disconneted prior to the pull out - or you'll snag and possibly hurt something. Have a mate help you, rent a picker, and above all, down load the f uckin FSM for Christ sake.

 

I thought it was the other way around, DE-K has less cam ride then ????

 

thats what i thought

 

ok well i didnt do a compression check but im sure that motor is losing compression, while i was driving it it felt as if it was losing power, and the motor would start knocking, the OEM engine has 198,000 on it, i also did a 00vi swap. i was going with the DEK for a lower mileage engine, they told me the DEK has 75,000 miles on it, I KNOW FOR A FACT that it has more than that. and thanks alot i will download the FSM.....

 

It's hard to destroy a VQ ... it can happen, not saying it can't. But ... unless you throw a rod or loose the main bearings, I haven't heard of one going down for a ring issue. Are you going to tear down the OEM and do an autotopsy?

So, if you KNOW the DE-K has more miles than 75k, do you know how many miles or an apporximation anyway? I wasn't trying to sound like a **** ... sorry if I came off that way, not my intention.

 

i think it approximately has 100k on it, its still lesser miles, but i dont think i will strip it down and do that, i might... but i dont get the point if im going to put the dek in, i dont know what the actual problem is, i really believe its something loose in the motor, it might be a rod wearing out. i guess i will just be changing it for nothing. but its my dd and i dont really have any other alternatives.

 

Ok ... the point of tearing down the old one is to find out EXACTLY what the problem is / was. You could rebuild it and recoop your money on Ebay. An idea I guess. (that's what I'd do if I had this problem). It'd make your DE-K almost pay for it's self. 200k - rebuilt - I'd look at maybe $350 - 400 (plus shipping - better yet, do local pick up) It's your call mate ... none of us can make it for you. Oh, and this should go without saying, no more revving comps! lol

 

If my engine sounded the way his does I'd swap it out too.

 

yes 8 degrees on intake. exuast is better on the dek though i belive. someone please feel free to correct me if im wrong since i cant find the actual specs

 

I know revving comps are stupid, but I find it really hard to believe simply revving the engine can damage it as long as it is not over-revved above redline.

Does it have to do with a quick surge in RPM without load?

I still find it hard to believe revving an engine can damage something as long as it is warmed up properly, well maintained, and isn't revved above redline.










Also, I am so confused on cams. So apparently from my understanding of it, the DE has intake cams that are more aggressive and net more power yet the DEK has better exhaust cams?

 

yeah thats a great idea,maybe ill take it into consideration, and i will sell the 00vi thats on the car now in place of some lost money from the DEK. but i think 200k is good mileage on a OEM motor, i know they are good for more than that though. and yeah NEVER AGAIN!!!! (revving comp's)

 

from ceasars thread

#67

i know there is more info on it i just cant seem to find it. but in all honesty i retract my statement about putting in the de cams i dont think it would be worth the effort unless your doing a build

and also about the whole reving thing. i have seriously rev the crap out of my car( trying to get past my rev limiter) ive seriously have hit 8k a couple of times and still not heard or had any problems.

 

LOL .... "revving cop's" I know, it's just a typo, but it's funny.

Good to know about the intake lobe having 8 degrees more, I would think it would follow for the exahust lobes too, but maybe not. And, like you, I can't really find any specs either. Oh well ...

Modena - over revving can cause internal parts to move faster than what they were designed for, thus pushing them too far and to the point of breakage. Low or no oil can do it to. When you "redline" the car, that is the max RPM the ECU will let you have, however if you changed the ECU or hold it too long at redline, you can actually pull a few more revs out of the engine. To rev and let it come down say from maybe 4 or 5k revs isn't going to do it. You'd have to peg it and keep it there for a bit (not sure how long, never done it, but we can ask the OP) Also, if the oil was nasty or low, you creat more friction, thus increasing the load on the internals.

 

and i also believe that my oil pump was wearing out..

 

^^^^ That could account for a lot right there!

Ok ... bed time

 

VQ30DE
Intake Valve Open: 3 BTDC
Intake Valve Close: 49 ABDC
Intake Valve Duration: 232
Valve Lift: Nominal
===
Exhaust Valve Open: 49 BBDC
Exhaust Valve Close: 3 ATDC
Exhaust Valve Duration: 232
Valve Lift: Nominal

VQ30DE-K
Intake Valve Open: 3 BTDC
Intake Valve Close: 41 ABDC
Intake Valve Duration: 224
Valve Lift: Nominal
===
Exhaust Valve Open: 49 BBDC
Exhaust Valve Close: 3 ATDC
Exhaust Valve Duration: 232
Valve Lift: Nominal + 0.525mm






here are the #s

but like i said earlier not worth your time unless your doing a build.

 

Nice! That is exactly what I was curious about. So in essence:

DE - Intake cams are the same except for 8 degrees more duration

DEK - Exhaust cams are the same except .525mm more lift.

Sweetness. Thanks for the post! I love satisfying my curiosity and understanding things.




Awesome, good to know. At first I thought it was just revving in general. As juvenile as it sounds, I hate to admit I occasionally rev my engine at friends at stop lights and stuff. Usually I just pop it to the floor and back off, and normally don't shoot it past 5K RPM anyway. Good to know that is fine on the engine.

 

Very true .... it's not that easy to replace cams and especially cam bearings! Nice post mate .... that's good info

 

yeah, i dont feel like messing with the timing on the new motor anyways, ill just put it in.

 

There are so many things wrong with the logic of the OP that I don't even know where to start...

 

OP = Original Poster = i2vicious2 = you.