Anyone ever have any problem with Moog parts? Specifically inner and outter tie rods? Didn't find much in the search. They seem to be the middle of the road as far as price goes compared to other brands. I've learned to stay away from the cheapest stuff, specifically OE Brand parts.

Thanks

 

Moog is good stuff mate. There are different ranges, but the better Moog stuff is well worth the money IMO.

 

my 2 cents would be to go OEM. I just did this same job last week for the driver side, and my alignment guy agreed that the right way to go is OEM for those parts. You'll likely need the Nissan boot kit for the inner tie rod end. fyi, use a zip tie to secure the boot, not the wire they give you - there's just not enough room to secure the wire tight and properly.

Moog does seem to be a reasonable off-brand for most suspension parts, but DaveB can hook you up with a good deal - he came in way below my local stealership's price.

 

Good to hear. I just picked up some Moog tie rods and the visual quality seems to be better than OEM (mainly the TRE boots), and certainly better than the OE brand crap.
Anyone can make a ball joint, and they are most likely all similar in quality until it comes down to the boot that protects the joint. The boot on the Moog tie rod end is at least twice as thick as the OE brand part I was looking at. Sure, I paid twice as much, but they are almost guaranteed to last twice as long.

I called Nissan for the boot kit. They said $50ish per SIDE. I ended up getting the kit for $30ish shipped (both sides) from www.getcoolparts.com. They are probably not as good of quality as OEM, but for as often as I am under my cars, I'll be able to keep an eye on them. If they last a year (the boots), I'll feel like I got my moneys worth. Not sure how much longer we will have this car anyway.

 

Moog=quality stuff overall. Don't get the Ebay chinese suspension stuff. I gave the tie rods a try, they were junk in less than 2 yrs.

 

iirc, MOOG is manufactured in japan. i believe they also have parts in performance pieces. I've bought moog before and would definately buy again

 

used them extensively on a turbo Mazda i owned.

never had a problem or a complaint.

i'd certainly used them again and would not deter anyone who's considering them.

 

I'm going to replace them tomorrow when the boot kit arrives. The only thing I don't see talked about is the inner TR locking plate. Should I just seperate it from the TR with a flat head + hammer? How does that thing work? It's not even talked about in my Haynes manual.

 

Like any other manufacturer they do have occasional issues. they do however have fewer problems than most companies. Alot of times they are just reboxing another companies part (555, sankei, etc..).
I handle Moog on a regular basis, and have had VERY few issues with them at all.

I haven't dealt with OE brand, so I can't comment on their parts. I have dealt with Karlyn, and their quality control was less than ideal.
I have some generic suppliers that I do use and have had luck with.

 

oem CRAP? I hope you do know that that OEM crap will last longer then 90% of the parts out there for the lower price. Not to mention. How old is ur car? exactly...

 

Who said OEM crap?
OE BRAND is crap. there is a company out there that has the brand name "OE". They make cheap chassis, and they are based out of florida.

read carefully, and many answers are there if you choose to see them

 

Thanks for paying attention!

Any clues on the inner tie rod locking plate before I go mangle it?

 

the replacement locking plate came with my OEM boot kit. The old one I pulled off looked pretty beat up, and the new one seemed beefier. DaveB told me how Nissan has changed / upgraded? the boot kit over the years. I suppose you could just try to keep it as intact as possible when pulling it off, and try to re-install it with the new inner tie rod.

Again, that's my problem with aftermarket sometimes...you don't always get all the little accessory parts you need.

 

Can you be more specific about how you pulled off the old locking plate? It comes off before I start trying to unscrew the inner TR, correct? HOW?
I have new locking plates, but they seem ****ty compared to the originals. I'd like to be able to reuse the originals if I chose to do so.

 

I've got the opposite issue. the OEM sells all the little crapola separately on certain parts. the aftermarket includes the little crapola (gaskets, silicone, bolts , etc.) on their stuff. Their are cases where OEM is prefered.
Heck My knock sensor will be OEM when it comes in. Injectors I only trust OEM, but there again the OEM part lacks o'rings and insulators. the aftermarket versions come with them (the ones I sell are OE bosch, and I include the o'rings and insulators with them), but not the OE. Go figure.

 

well maybe if sum ppl were a lil specific on the OE you were talking about be itit can be used as "original equipment" aka OEM.

 

I was specific about "OE" when I followed up with the word "brand". Meaning, OE is a type of brand, and the name of the company. Many people are aware of OE Brand as it is usually the least expensive and poorest quality of aftermarket parts. Apparently some people have never heard of it, but I cant account for some people's assumptions or lack of refined terminology, sorry

 

Anyway

They are done. The knock is now gone and I just need an alignment. Probably couldn't have done it without the Lisle tool. One bad thing though... The drivers side boot had a considerable amount of PS fluid in it... Yet, the PS resevoir level has been good for the last couple years.