curiosul

This weekend I'm taking the car to a friend of mine (mechanic) and he's doing this:
- engine oil plus filter (Castrol GTX 0W30 fully synthetic and Nissan OEM filter)
- gearbox oil
- knock sensor (he has to take the intake out because of this: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...preciated.html)
- headers, y-pipe, b-pipe (I don't want to touch the cat converter and the muffler seems fine - for now)


The question:

As long as he's working on it (intake and exhaust), what else can he do/check?

P.S. The car has 88k miles and the 60k and 75k miles dealer check-up has been done.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Why 0w-30?

I'm assuming you're 5MT, you mentioned brand of engine oil, why not do the same here?

A trillion members will say you do not have to remove the IM for this, and 2 or 3 of us will say you do, and should in order to apply the correct amount of torque on the bolt.

Stop having a hernia in that thread, and get a Cattman b-pipe, or have a shop weld in the pieces that need replacing.


He's doing headers and y-pipe? What brand?




Plugs & grounds.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Consider me a part of that club. Then again my UIM/LIM have been taken off of my car so many times...it's second nature by now.

That, and the only thing it takes to get it off is the throttle cable, wiring harness, intake plumbing, two vac lines, and the 4 bolts at the front...no brackets, EGR tube, or any other stock crap that makes it a PITA at first.

Jamaha80

If the tranny has not been serviced before now (fluid flush), leave it alone. It's best to leave the friction material inside as an insulator to worn parts if the tranny was not regularly serviced every 30k miles. Other than that, sounds good.
Nothin wrong with using 0W in an engine likely to have some degree of sludge build up/less than optimal circulation. Kind of like how old people should take asprin daily.
I also didn't have to remove the Intake mani. to do the KS, but I also had to enlist my wife's hands into the situation (nnnnnnnice.)

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Pretty sure it's you me and Mike, but I'm also pretty sure you knew that too.

Popping the A33B IM is getting to be as easy as 5 minutes lately.

This would depend on if he was AT or MT. I still don't believe in that though.

Jamaha80

Right about wether it's auto/manual. As far as believing in it.... Thats totally up to you. Thousands of engineers/trained technicians tend to believe though, and I take what they have to say more seriously than org memebers/myself

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

It may be true, but I have yet to see proof of it on either of my Maximas. I usually demand facts before I believe theories.

Godson

Meh....bought my 97 with 107,000 and the previous(first owner) said she stopped going in for the service at Nissan after the first few years and she only had the oil changed at interval but no recollection of tranny service since a routine one from the dealer in like 2001. I changed the A/T fluid about 3 months after getting the car,against the opinion of some also, and have zero problems. Used Amsoil for the record also, I have to mention Im pretty hard on my tranny too...at the track once or twice a month and daily trips to the redline. I dunno, am I the exception to the rule or not but I would do it again in that situation with confidence.

Jamaha80

You changed it yourself? You had to have seen some clutch materieal/metal filings come out with the old fluid. Regardless, it's not something thats going to outright kill your tranny, by not flushing it for a long time, and then flushing. But it has been said and known by some educated people (and some not) that doing so can affect tq converter function in a bad way.

It's not a theory or conspiracy. The fact is, in REAL basic terms.... If there are 2 plates spinning next to each other with velcro between to link them together as 1, and you take away some of that velcro, you are creating a weak link. Even if it is parts of velcro that have naturaly worn away and are just floating around, they effectively create solid space between the worn parts.
tq converter and flex plate are a lot like a clutch and flywheel huh?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I see the logic but have yet to be adversely affected, that was my point.

Jamaha80

Gotcha.


Make sure he takes off and cleans out your EGR tube depending on your yr. Don't know if 99's have them.

curiosul

I'll try to answer:
1: MT, Amsoil 75W90
2: As you can see in the pictures in the link I posted, there's no way I can change the KS without taking off the intake
3: Headers and Y-pipe bought on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...266055432&rd=1
4: The B-pipe is from Stillen


Thank you very much for all the input!