So I got a new TPS today to fix my TPS problem. I decided I'd take the throttle body off to clean while I was at it. I was also going to replace my IACV gasket since I had it off before and didn't replce it. It's a one time use gasket anyway. Then I thought, I'd clean the EGR port/tube. Not to my surprise, here is what I found (and should have noticed when I had the IACV off previously) and a few other random pics:

This is looking through the IACV port at the clogged EGR port:


EGR port on back of UIM. You can see where I started to chip away at it. It took considerable chisseling effort to get this cleaned out. This is after 145k miles:


This is the tube that connects the EGR valve/assembly to the UIM. Also very clogged, but not as clogged. Just the very top of the pipe was clogged:


Engine minus UIM. Took me about an hour to get it off. About half that time was trying to get the coolant hose off the bottom of the UIM. A tip; I used a heavy duty work glove to physically pinch the hose clamp on the coolant hose to slide it off. I don't see how you could get a pair of pliars in there or do it any other conventional way:


Dirty UIM. It's about to get degreased and scrubbed real nice, along with the rest of the engine when I'm done.



So, this might effectively be a duplicate of some other "EGR" threads, but it's just another example of why you should do this. Hopefully this takes care of my EGR flow P0400 code. Hope this helps someone too. It's not a DIY aticle by any means though.
Sorry the pics are giplatic.

 

Nobody cares?

Everything is back together and running. I haven't reset the idle yet. The ecm should adapt to a clean TB/Intake mani/EGR. It sure as **** adapted to the clogged conditions. If the idle hasn't settled after a week or so, I'll manually reset it. The engine litteraly sounds like it breaths better. The TPS also fixed the shift lag between my foot and tranny. It doesn't shift into 2nd as soon as it did before which is nice. When I floor it, the downshift/rpm increase reaction time is way faster. Throttle response is great, which may have something to do with tightening the slack in the throttle cable when reassembling.
ALSO
I have read in a thread or 2 before that some people didn't bother putting the 2 manifold support bracket bolts back on the rear of the UIM when reassembling. This is incredibly stupid, and lazy. Those 2 bolts help keep the UIM bolted down at the rear. Notice how there are 4 main bolts on the front of the manifold? There is nothing really holding down the back except for th EGR tube, throttle body/hose connections and the weight of the manifold itself. People might not have problems leaving those bolts out, but the only reason to leave them out is because of laziness.

Anyways... Car is running like it should now. I've spent the past 3 weeks whipping this POS into shape. I should get a cake.

 

Good job man.

 

I removed the egr cause I prefer that crap not in my engine

 

Did you just use a blocking plate at the EGR port on the UIM? How are you avoinding a CEL? Resistor(s)?

 

If you are going to block it...................why not just leave it clogged?

 

Heres mine while doing my 00VI swap.

 

Yes, awesome, I was thinking the same thing................

 

When I removed mine to replace a fuel injector, I simply cut the hose with a pair of shears and re-installed with a new coolant hose. $.99 = 1/2 hour

 

I thought about doing that, until I found the glove.

 

Good job. I shall be doing this when i get the time to, cause my EGR sensor code poped up.

 

I have been running the car with the P0400 code since last year. I am hoping it doesn't damage my cat. I need to do this but I am not brave enough. I have all the gaskets etc. to get this job done. I am just lacking the nerves.

 

not really that hard...just 8 bolts and the UIM is of. aside form all the hoses and wires...just go for it.