Does the timing chain only run on the top of the water pump instead of wraping all the way around?

 

Also as far as the crank shaft i had turn mine more to...There is another guy on here that also had to and he said it was ALMOST impossible to skip a tooth so you should be good once you add tension back

 

it just runs on top. it maybe makes contact with a total of 90 (out of 360 degrees) of the water pump sprocket.

BTW what model pump did you use? I bought a Bosch

I finished mine tonight. Bought he car three weeks ago. New water pump, cv joints, brakes , serpentine and ps belt, re did all the locks. Everything is back together finally


Want to wait until tomorrow to start it.

 

started her up. chain rattled right away, but after about two laps around the block, it went away, just like the procedure said.

had me nervous, but everythink worked out. good luck.

 

Same here although I admit I got mad when I was putting it in and it more than likely leaks...as my rtv sealant job wasn't close to perfect and the o rings probably got dinged on the way in ..It does work though and atleast the new chain tensioner works...btw I had a nissan water pump from the dealer

 

They sold me a set of o rings plus the water pump came with o rings. ....Neither set had a red one and they both looked the same...Are these interchangeable? I want to know because I have a leak and although I know it's probably my doing I just want to double check
Thanks,

 

Hey guys anyone know on these o rings what the correct nissan part # is?

 

I am new to the forum, but have owned my car since 2005. I cannot create any threads because of the 15 post rule.

My 95 max has been spewing coolant out ONLY when the car is turned off and it appears to be leaking right under where the water pump is. I see a steady drip right behind the alternator. I already replaced the thermostat gasket severaltimes, so I decided to pull the water pump as it was the only logical explanation (car has 171k on it). Well last night I got it out with relatively no issues. However, I am a bit nervous about the timing. There is a ton of slack in my timing chain and I am fearful that it may jump a tooth. Has anyone ever run into this issue while doing this install? I just did a cam install and a clutch install on my GTO in my backyard and both of those installs were way less scary than this one.

 

I got the pump in the car, but I am confused on the timing tensioner. Mine came apart in my ziplock bag and I thought it was just 2 parts...a spring and a housing. However, I have a little black cylinder type piece and I have no idea where it goes! How does it all go together?

 

Ok so I just put the little black cylinder piece inside the spring and crossed my fingers. Started the car up and it sounded AWFUL. Major timing tensioner noise. I let it warm up and it didnt make a difference. When I rev it, the sound subsides. So I took the tensioner back out and removed this black little piece....well it sounds even worse now so I gave up for the night. I have no idea what to do now since everyone says this part is impossible to get now and you need to upgrade to the new tensioner/guide as a unit.

Can anyone at least tell me what this little black cylinder type piece is? Is that supposed to go into the tensioner somewhere or did this somehow get mixed up in the wrong ziplock bag? I will be content with just putting it back together the right way and if it makes the noise it makes the noise..but I need to know what the right way is first. Unfortunately, I cannot make threads yet or I would start one.

 

Bump

 

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Bumpity

 

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Well, I ended up just putting the little black cylinder thing inside the spring and put the tensioner back in. I started the car and it sounded awful but quieted back down after a 10 minute drive. I have done a clutch install, cam install, header install, and other misc installs in my GTO and none of them were as tough as this.

On an unrelated note, this forum is dumb as hell. 15 posts just to be able to make a thread? Could have saved me a lot of trouble if I could just make a thread right off the bat. No one looks at this one. Dumb.

 

I'm going to reply to this old thread because I saw the same plastic thingy when I did my wife's 212k 1996 GLE two weeks ago. I did the same thing and just put it back.

But...

Since I did the water pump, my wife had noticed an intermittent oil light. Tonight I traded cars and took it for a spin. I noticed mild chain rattle and a flickering oil light. While idling when I was filling the gas tank, I noticed the noise was worse. When I looked inside the car, the oil light was steady. I freaked out and stopped the engine, even though it was idling fine.

I started it up, the light was gone and the engine quiet. I drove less than a mile home and when I put it into park, at idle the light was flickering and the rattle had returned.

My wife told me that last weekend the light was flickering on the highway then came on for 30 seconds before she pulled off. She waited a few minutes, restarted it and drove home with no oil light.

What would cause an intermittent oil pressure problem which gets better when the engine is shut down for a few minutes? Why would the engine survive when run for 30 seconds down the highway with no oil pressure?

The oil is fresh from the water pump replacement, looks good and is the correct level.

I think the old tensioner is leaking, dropping the oil pressure, but oil is still flowing. Stopping the engine reseats the tensioner somehow and makes it better for a while.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Thanks.