I am posting this thread in the 4th gen to capture high mileage maxima issues and what is considered as normal maintenance items that take a beating over time...

So far I have replaced the following high ticket items on my 2000 maxima : CV boots (outer), alternator, wheel bearings, front and back struts, radiator and water pump. The vehicle has a little over 150K and I consider myself as a mild driver and I do know the items that are coming down the lane like cats, mounts etc...

The reason I want to capture parts that get replaced is to understand the viability of owning my car beyond a certain period of time.

 

Every car will need replacement parts, regardless of the mileage. The specific parts needing replacement as well as the timeline for replacement are dependant on environmental conditions, terrain, driving style, manufacturing quality, age and several other factors.

There's no way to determine exactly what will or will not fail at any given mileage.

For the most part, the A32 and A33 tend to age fairly well, and don't just fall apart at high mileage as some other cars tend to. There are several examples of >300k miles still going strong. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it enough to think about buying a new car anytime soon. No car payment, maintenance history you're sure of, familiarity, etc.

 

my 97 5spd has 184,000 ive owned it since 167,000. Only thing it has needed is sway bar end links, knock sensor, and a cleaning of the throttle body/iavc to get rid of a cel, and drive shafts. Just make sure you follow the normal maintenance from the owners manual, fuel filter, spark plugs, coolant, brakes. I also run 93 octane just to be safe.

 

mines at 156K right now and the only things i replaced so far was MAF sensor, Alternator and knock sensor... as well as doing all the scheduled maintenance... does not give me any problems so far...

 

156k
Both cv axles
Shocks springs mounts
Coolent temp sensor
Brakes/ calipers
Alternator

But it always ran so I guess none of them really kept it running. The alternator would have made it stop running I suppose but I replaced it before it totally died.

 

155,000
Struts, shocks
Exhaust system
Coil packs
Brakes
Knock Sensor
A few tune ups and many oil changes

Pretty much normal maintenance items.
Cost of ownership is awsome, my BMW burried me in repairs and maintenance.

 

My 97 has just over 150,000 miles. When I bought it it had 105,000 on it. The dealer had had replaced the front pads and rotors when I got it, and since then I've done:
Replace the VSS and speedometer to clear a check engine code
Right bank O2 sensor
Rear pads and rotors
Several minor repairs to the exhaust system
Need to repair the front radiator support
Normal maintenance stuff

 

170K.

Alt.
Coilpacks.
CV axles.
Regular maint.

 

Thanks for the maintenance list. My car is 175K+ so its due for some of those. Any suggestion on when to replace the fuel pump? Or is it like the water pump which lasts forever?

 

when it stops working...

 

'97 purchased in 2000 w/45k now with 140k
trans bearings (5spd-Nissan covered @55k)
alternator (paid labor)
evap canister vent valve
parking brake cable (watch the lift)
knock sensor
rear o2 sensor
axles (leaking boot)
calipers (one side sticking)
front struts (now due for rears omg)
muffler and b-pipe
only my second battery!

edit-forgot the lower ball joints, sway bar links inner & outer tie rods

 

Noob here, I just got my max over the summer and it just turned 312,000 miles... These cars are tanks, I bought it from my uncle and all he did was basic maintenance. Fluids, tires and the like. Only other things were some various bushings. Only thing i did was replace the sound system. This car is incredible

 

98 SE, 168,000+ miles

so far this year i've replaced:
- idler pulley (pulley was seized earlier this year)
- passenger side half-shaft (replaced same time as idler pulley)
- exhaust (cat-back)*
- brakes (new pads/rotors/calipers/hoses)*

replacements to come the next few months:
- suspension (shocks/struts/springs/both lower control arms/mounts, to be replaced soon)*
- tie-rods (also replacing soon due to age)*
- remainder of exhaust (age, will keep close to OE)*
- driver's side half-shaft (might as well get that one changed) *
- o2 sensors (ses light on for one of them, might as well change all 3)*
- spark plugs (replaced at 105K, currently overdue)
- ignition coils (originals, will change next tune-up due to age)*
- knock sensor (changed in early 2005, will also change at tune-up)
- belts (replaced same time as plugs, been squealing on startup)
- tires

other than that, normal maintenance

* = ordered/will order parts from rockauto.com & had/will have local shop install them

 

I have a 99 gxe 5spd with 140,000 miles, my father bought it on april 1999 brand new off the lot. He passed it down to me in 2003 so far we've changed:

2 clutches
coil packs
02 sensors
knock sensors
starter
both axles
brake pads
spark plugs
hoses
belts

coming soon....
suspension (shocks/struts)
exhaust
radiator

still running great

 

ive done the regualr maitence only big thing i had to change was the trans other then that plugs fuel filter bla bla bla notthing major and 2 ball joints 2

 

These are some of the things mine has needed that aren't surprising for a high mileage car
- Transmission rebuild
- Tie rods, rod ends
- Power steering rack
- Alternator
- Water pump
- Starter
- b-pipe, y-pipe, muffler, cat (rust)
- E-brake cables
- brake calipers
- O2 sensors

 

Replace everything except the body!

 

^^^^ yep, 181,000 and just spent almost 3,000.00 at the body shop!!!! i wish i would've had her new to see what it would've been like!!! something tells me not as good as i made her to be!!!!

 

i got mine @ 177k. now its pushing 190k. so far i did all the regular filters and stuff plus:

2 front O2 sensors
ECTS
Spark plugs
Starter
Idler pulley
Belts
Tranny flush
PCV Valve

 

Since I'm one of the few here old enough to have owned a 4th gen since it was new (mine's a 95SE, bought new 9/94), this thread is near and dear to my heart.

Up to 100K, when my extended warranty expired, the only things my Max needed were a starter, breather and purge control valves, and an O2 sensor. These were all warranty fixes, though I did have to pay a small deductible on each. Wear items replaced to that point were tires (@ 60K miles), battery (82K) and front brakes (pads only - 92K).

From 100K miles to 190K, the only major repairs - all really wear items, let's face it - were a water pump at 143K, an exhaust system (along with outer CV joint boots) at 152K, and a 2nd starter at 185K. During that period I also did (mostly myself) a bunch of relatively minor things like rear calipers, front rotors, plugs, hood stays, IACV, and (naturally) regular tire, filter and oil changes.

At 190K miles a few major things kicked in that cumulatively added up to more than the book value of the car, but (thanks to Kevin - KRRZ350) I thought were worth the $$ and have brought the car back to fantastic shape and made it way more of a fun daily driver. These were the clutch and struts (original to 192 and 195K respectively), the radiator support, and a second exhaust (a reasonably priced used SP2 along with a cat with `only' 100K on it - something I was dreading having to replace - and a Y pipe).

I'd buy another Max in a heartbeat, if they hadn't softened them up so much. One CVT in the family (my wife's 04 Murano) is enough for me - plus, call me old fashioned but I still way prefer Jap assembled cars.

Oh yeah, my first Max was an 85 SE that I bought new and lasted me till I got my current 95 in late 94.

 

I recomend replacing timing chain around 150 - 200k. Mine just broke on me at 254k.

 

proper maintenance and that won't happen. more than likely it was a tensioner that failed and the chain had too much slack and wobbled itself to death

 

1995 Maxima GXE-5 at 295,300

Bought with 286k this past June 08, so far I've replaced the following items although most of em were not fully necessary but since I was in the "area" already I just went ahead and did them.

-All control arm bushing (poly)
-swaybar bushings/ swaybar links-bushings (poly)
-***** joints
-tie rods
-wheel bearing
-Pads/Rotors all around
-LF caliper
-Starter, reason why I got car so cheap
-oil change every 2,500 miles
-Radiator
-Rusty Core support
-Clutch
-one rusted fender and still waiting to source another blue fender. seems common spot for rust

The car drives like a champ and has actually "showed itself off" in front of other lower mileage vehicles that should be in similar or higher category. I should reach 300k without problems

 

Bought the 95 SE with 56K and I now have 210K miles and the car is still running strong. Added up $4K in parts and labor this year so I will not be getting rid of the car anytime soon, just eventually passing it down to my niece in college.

Replaced Items

Heater Core / Radiator - added Hayden transmission oil cooler / Fan shroud / Water pump / Thermostat

L&R CV joints / Front wheel bearings / L&R ball joints / L&R control arms / Struts - KYB AGX / Springs - H&R Sport / Freedom Design FSTB / Addco RSB

A/C fan motor / Knock sensor / Alternator / Driver visor / Bose stereo

L fog light clip / Front bumper / 1 OEM 15" sawblade / L&R engine splahshields / Sunroof repair kit

Stock muffler - OBX Muffler / Stock Y-pipe - Budget Exhaust Y-pipe / S&B velocity stack air filter / MAF sensor

Normal wear & tear

Belts / Hoses / 3 sets of Yokohama tires / Ceramic brakes

Castrol 5W30 High Mileage Oil / Nissan oil filters / NGK platinum plugs / All O2 sensors

 

I feel good that the items replaced by me aren't anything off the mark. Oh yes, I have invested $3K since 100K and don't want to get a new one either, but my wife wants me to buy a Infiniti M35 and moving on. She thinks it isn't worth the monies for maintenace.

BTW, in my orginial post forgot to put coils and O2 sensors were also replaced (Personally Nissan should have done a recall on the coils but then it is for another discussion in itself).

 

wife doesn't understand the equation of maintenance < car payments?

 

mine has 140,000 on the dial. it's holdin up pretty well.

starter
exhaust (cat back)
alt.
speed sensor
o2 sensor
clutch(common)

 

~170K

3 or 4 starters (not surprising, since I replaced the original with rebuilts)
front rotors
couple ignition switches (prob. didn't need to replace)
instrument cluster
knock sensor
couple solenoids (forgot what acronyms they are)
spark plug tube gasket (huge PITA)
hood struts
radiator
antenna
usual maintenance stuff

 

178K
2 starters
3 ALTternators
new struts
coilpacks
plugs
rotors
exhaust
radiator
crank pulley
both belts
o2 sensors
egr valves
wheel beatings
right control arm
other than that...regular maintenance stuff

 

Probably four or more starters
brake master cylinder
wheel bearing
struts front and back

Need radiator support

I am so amazed that I haven't had to replace any thing involving the engine coolant except the radiator cap in over 140k miles right now I have 294k miles on the car.

 

That's not normal maintenance, just to clarify. Also higher octane is a waste of money, put in what's reccomended by the engine manufacture.

 

Plugs, coolant, and brakes are all maintenance items, not sure what you meant there.

Also, Nissan recommends high octane, so he is. Well, I believe the official recommendation is 91+, but in many places, it's either 87, 89, or 93.

 

Platinum plugs are not what I would consider 'regular maintenance', they're usually good for at least 100,000 usually much more, that's all I was saying.
As far as the fuel, I'm just saying that it's a common misconception that higher octane is better, in most cases it's quite the opposite and almost always a waste of money on a stock engine, IMO.
But in either case it's not very relevant to the thread, and is a long disputed argument that has no place here, sorry I even brought it up.

 

It is not a common misconception. The motor was tuned from the factory to run on 91+ fuel. Sure it will run on less but it will not run at peak efficiency using less. When it retards the timing it is not running peak efficiency which means a loss of power and the ecu will actually throw a little extra fuel into the cylinders to keep from knocking. In addition to the extra fuel, you will need to hit the throttle harder with the reduced amount of power. That is why most of you will find your fuel mileage will be pretty close to the same between 87 and 91+. This is only true for motors designed to run on premium. You will however get better fuel mileage with 87 on a normal motor like your average kia.

Back when 87 octane gas was $1/gallon, 91+ would be about $1.20. Thats a 20% difference. Big deal then. Now when closer to $4/gal for 87 and $4.20 for premium. Thats a difference of 5%. That is not a big deal. Its almost always .20 more. I hardly think an extra $3 is going to break you on a $60 fill up.

As you can see the advantages of running the "wasteful" premium such has having a more efficent and powerful motor far outreach the to 87 octane crap I run in my lawn mower that has a negligably lower price not worth saving twelve quarters for. But you can feed your baby whatever you want. You dont have to agree with me, but mine runs better.

Also check your owners manual...pretty sure mine has spark plugs listed under the maintenance schedule. 100,000 is a long time but is still maintenance none the less, no different than changing oil. I would have to say that the minimum for a high milage maxima would be more than 100,000 miles, so changing plugs is a required mantainence item

 

read the whole thing
http://www.nextautos.com/running-on-...emium-gasoline

 

power steering tensioner bolt
front rotors and pads
NGK spark plugs



Need to fix/replace
E-break cables
rear rotors and pads
door bumpers
I need to fill my wiper fluid before winter but thats it
She runs like a freakin charm I love my maxima.

 

Are you saying you haven't replaced the engine coolant in at least 140k? That would be a major mistake. I drain and replace it every 60k.

As for the discussion of normal maintenance, these are the items that should be replaced at 60k intervals or shorter.
- plugs (even platinum)
- coolant
- belts
- engine oil and filter
- fuel filter
- gear oil/trans fluid
- air filter
- tires
- brake pads
- brake fluid
- battery (not on a 60k schedule, but they definitely cannot last the life of the car)

I've been around for a while, and in my opinion the only part of that list that is subject to debate is the intervals. Anyone who isn't replacing those items on a scheduled or as-needed basis is not doing proper maintenance.

Note that some items (coolant, gear oil, battery, brake fluid) tend to last a little beyond the original warranty period, so there will often be no recommendation from the OEM. Do not be fooled by that - the OEM wants the car to die as soon as warranty expires. Those who know cars and the engineering behind them are aware that for maximum life you need to replace some things that the OEM might mention.

Dave

 

215k miles of Hard Driving. Was used for countless hours of sleeper street racing (Was younger, Not proud of it.) and Drag racing.

- Transmission Replaced
- 2 clutches (Stock and ACT, Exedy now is holding well)
- Radiator support rusted out, replaced w/ OEM piece
- Both axles
- Wheel Bearings
- Passenger Knuckle
- All Four Rotors and Calipers (ABUSED from younger years)
- Exhaust (Stock fell apart)
- Starter
- A/C Compressor (Due to idiot brother driving my car and turning on defrost in minus zero temps) - For those who don't know this, if temp is < 0 degrees, don't turn on your rear window defroster, it uses the A/C compressor and will kill it in this temperature!
- O2 and knock sensors

That's about it. No major problems at all with this car.

 

The rear window defogger is completely electric, it doesn't use the AC compressor.

 

the front one does however use the A/C compressor.