Warpspeed Y-Pipe HELP!!!!
10-05-2008, 04:16 PM
#1
Warpspeed Y-Pipe HELP!!!!
So I'm finally changing my y-pipe to a Warpspeed. All my bolts are gonna be completely rusted especially since I live in NY. What size bolts/washers should I buy for the parts of the y with the gaskets? Someone please help me A.S.A.P!
(and yes I searched)
(and yes I searched)
Last edited by ChrisMan287; 10-05-2008 at 04:21 PM.
10-05-2008, 06:35 PM
#3
10-05-2008, 06:46 PM
#4
Understanding you're new around these parts, I'll spare you this one.
Yes.
How about the search feature?
The threading for the nuts is M10 x 1.25 (highly recommend replacing all).
All of this leads me to...
Hmm...
Yes.
How about the search feature?
K, I should be getting my Y-pipe in on Friday. Any precautions I should look for? Like O2 sensors, how to carefully take them off etc. How long should I let the PB Blaster sit before trying to get the bolts off? Are there any special tools I would need, or can I do this by hand? Thanks everyone.
All of this leads me to...
Hmm...
10-06-2008, 12:25 PM
#11
Ok so now I'm really confused. I went to Home Depot, asked for 10x1.25 studs and they said they don't know what that is. I think maybe I need the nuts. What size are those? Aren't they like 14mm or 16mm something like that? Is it even possible to change the bolts? HELP!
(I'm a super noob as you can tell since this is my 1st time doing the y-pipe)
(I'm a super noob as you can tell since this is my 1st time doing the y-pipe)
10-06-2008, 12:40 PM
#13
10-06-2008, 12:42 PM
#14
Ok so now I'm really confused. I went to Home Depot, asked for 10x1.25 studs and they said they don't know what that is. I think maybe I need the nuts. What size are those? Aren't they like 14mm or 16mm something like that? Is it even possible to change the bolts? HELP!
(I'm a super noob as you can tell since this is my 1st time doing the y-pipe)
(I'm a super noob as you can tell since this is my 1st time doing the y-pipe)
You don't need the studs, you already have studs in the cat and the stock exhaust manifolds. Just 8 nuts.
10-06-2008, 02:36 PM
#15
(sorry for asking so many questions)
10-06-2008, 02:37 PM
#16
If they don't know what it is, then look for yourself.
10-06-2008, 02:38 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 511
Ok so now I'm really confused. I went to Home Depot, asked for 10x1.25 studs and they said they don't know what that is. I think maybe I need the nuts. What size are those? Aren't they like 14mm or 16mm something like that? Is it even possible to change the bolts? HELP!
(I'm a super noob as you can tell since this is my 1st time doing the y-pipe)
(I'm a super noob as you can tell since this is my 1st time doing the y-pipe)
If you have Advanced Auto Parts, go there, they have a stand of hardware, and it is reasonably prices as well. You need 10mm flange nuts with 1.25 thread pitch. The 14mm is the external size of nut/the socket you would use to remove it, but it does not matter if you get the same external size, so long as the nut threads on the bolt, you will be ok.
good luck,
Max
10-06-2008, 02:57 PM
#18
Ok thanx to the both of you, hopefully I can get the y on before it gets dark. **** The Depot, time to make a quick trip to AutoZone. I'll keep everyone updated on how the instal goes.
10-06-2008, 05:25 PM
#19
Dont go to Home Depot or Sears. They will likely not have this metric size. Some will have 1.5 pitch, which will not fit.
If you have Advanced Auto Parts, go there, they have a stand of hardware, and it is reasonably prices as well. You need 10mm flange nuts with 1.25 thread pitch. The 14mm is the external size of nut/the socket you would use to remove it, but it does not matter if you get the same external size, so long as the nut threads on the bolt, you will be ok.
good luck,
Max
If you have Advanced Auto Parts, go there, they have a stand of hardware, and it is reasonably prices as well. You need 10mm flange nuts with 1.25 thread pitch. The 14mm is the external size of nut/the socket you would use to remove it, but it does not matter if you get the same external size, so long as the nut threads on the bolt, you will be ok.
good luck,
Max
10-06-2008, 05:38 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 511
Thats just my observation, feel free to correct me.
Max
p.s. I did not say Home depot does not carry metric hardware, they do, just not the right type for this job
Last edited by maxud; 10-06-2008 at 06:08 PM.
10-06-2008, 06:04 PM
#21
After wasting my time going to Nissan dealer (they told me to go to auto parts store) and charged me $2 per nut, following a trip to Sears (this one only carried 1.5 pitch) and no flange nuts, following Home depot (waste of time) I was very impressed by local Auto zone bolt and nut section. Reasonable priced and exactly what I needed. Both metric and inch sizes.
Thats just my observation, feel free to correct me.
Max
p.s. I did not say Home depot does not carry metric hardware, they do, just not the right type for this job
Thats just my observation, feel free to correct me.
Max
p.s. I did not say Home depot does not carry metric hardware, they do, just not the right type for this job
10-08-2008, 04:29 AM
#23
Home Depot is where you go to get stuff to fix your house, not your car. Go to an auto shop to get stuff for your car. I'm pretty sure the auto shop won't have much to help you fix your house. They're not stupid, they carry what's relevant to their purpose.
10-08-2008, 02:42 PM
#24
I figured I could get nuts at Home depot, cause you use nuts to fix some things in your house, but I guess not. Then I went to AutoZone, they didn't sell the nuts separately, Miele Auto Parts didn't have the size I needed, and finally I went to AutoPro and they had the bolts there (thank god). I should get the y put on tomorrow.
10-08-2008, 09:45 PM
#28
On what, the cat? Those are threaded studs, but good luck ever getting them out. You'll probably have to blow them out with a torch.
10-08-2008, 10:59 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,044
My plan
use dy grinder and cut out bolts on stock y-pipe. then....put in new one. i dont know I just figured the bolts would come out like any other bolt. I mean i know it's rusted and all but did most people have to tourch out the stud?
thank you for your input
10-08-2008, 11:00 PM
#30
so even once i cut the bolts from the exhaust manifold i need to torch out the old studs?
My plan
use dy grinder and cut out bolts on stock y-pipe. then....put in new one. i dont know I just figured the bolts would come out like any other bolt. I mean i know it's rusted and all but did most people have to tourch out the stud?
thank you for your input
My plan
use dy grinder and cut out bolts on stock y-pipe. then....put in new one. i dont know I just figured the bolts would come out like any other bolt. I mean i know it's rusted and all but did most people have to tourch out the stud?
thank you for your input
I said the studs in the cat will be seized in there.
10-09-2008, 12:17 AM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,044
ok so there are 3 bolts that are connecting the y-pipe and the exhaust manifold on both manifolds(for a total of 6 bolts) this is the part I am talking about. If I cut these will I have to torch out the head of the bolt?
10-09-2008, 12:26 AM
#32
Assuming you cut them, then yes, you most likely would have to torch them out.
But two questions come to mind:
- Why, exactly, would you want to cut the nuts off of those studs?
- How in the hell do you plan on getting up there to cut the nuts off? There is zero room in there (no exaggeration...seriously) with the Y on.
10-09-2008, 01:01 AM
#33
yeh, good luck getting a dremel up there. honestly, those nuts shouldnt be as difficult to remove as the y-to-cat bolts (those will likely have to be torched off). what may happen tho is that a few of the whole studs will come out rather than just the nuts, which is no big deal anyways.
10-09-2008, 09:39 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,044
so what would you guys suggest as the best way to get off the studs?
I have 145k on my max and they are pretty freakin rusted out. the studs and nuts are pretty much fused together by rust. and if there is zero room how would you tourch them out?
I have 145k on my max and they are pretty freakin rusted out. the studs and nuts are pretty much fused together by rust. and if there is zero room how would you tourch them out?
10-09-2008, 11:22 AM
#35
You probably couldn't get a torch in there..even if you could, it'd be a bad idea with the manifold on the car.
So until you know whether or not you'll have issues removing the nuts, why are you so concerned with removing the studs?
10-09-2008, 01:15 PM
#36
I finally got it put on everybody. The nuts weren't hard to get off at all thanx to penetrating oil. Not even the y to cat nuts were hard to get off. The nuts all together took less than 10 mins to get off. The only thing that was semi-hard were the o2 sensor wires, but overall it wasn't that bad. Right away as soon as the car is started you can hear the deeper tone of the exhaust. Can't wait to get some increased gas mileage and also can't wait to floor it so I can feel and hear the extra horses. Thanx to everyone who helped me and I'm not gonna close this thread since someone is getting helped at the moment and this can be helpful for anyone else who is putting on their Warpspeed Y-Pipe. Ima upload sound clip from the engine/rear by this weekend. Once again thanx everybody.
10-09-2008, 03:59 PM
#37
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 30
i have one thing to say..when in doubt hit it them with some PB blaster like posted above and they will come out. just spray some on and wait a couple minutes and they should loosen right up.
10-10-2008, 08:42 AM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 511
I finally got it put on everybody. The nuts weren't hard to get off at all thanx to penetrating oil. Not even the y to cat nuts were hard to get off. The nuts all together took less than 10 mins to get off. The only thing that was semi-hard were the o2 sensor wires, but overall it wasn't that bad. Right away as soon as the car is started you can hear the deeper tone of the exhaust. Can't wait to get some increased gas mileage and also can't wait to floor it so I can feel and hear the extra horses. Thanx to everyone who helped me and I'm not gonna close this thread since someone is getting helped at the moment and this can be helpful for anyone else who is putting on their Warpspeed Y-Pipe. Ima upload sound clip from the engine/rear by this weekend. Once again thanx everybody.
So, did you end up putting new nuts on, or just reusing old ones?
Max
10-10-2008, 03:35 PM
#39
wow, man, you are very lucky. I recently did 2 cat back jobs on my 95 se and fathers 97 GLE. The nuts between cat and b-pipe and muffler were fused on with rust. (New england winters) No amount of penetrating spray (even PB) helped. I ended up using grinder to cut off the nuts and then drilled through the studs. That was one b*tch of a job. Thankfully my y-pipe is still holding on.
So, did you end up putting new nuts on, or just reusing old ones?
Max
So, did you end up putting new nuts on, or just reusing old ones?
Max
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
06-06-2017 02:01 PM
lrb6805
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
7
09-17-2015 04:49 PM