Hey guys so i've been trying to tackle this code p1105 now and i have found nothing in the service manual or on the forums to help me. so far heres what i checked:

checked all hoses
-swapped map sensor (the thing that says boost)
-checked the mao/baro solenoid/valve. it checks out according to the tsrm
-i pull a healthy vaccum when i put a boost gauge where the tsrm says to put it. i do notice however there is no vacuum coming from the hose that conects to the airduct but according to the tsrm its not supposed to have vaccum. (this is the hose that the solenoid switches to when 12v is applied).
-there is 12v at the harness when i turn the iginition on (is this right?)

- i notice once i clear the codes on the ecu i can drive the car with no cel until i turn the car off and start it back up again. once i start it the second time the cel comes on after a few seconds

help would be awesome since i need to get this car inspected.

 

well the reason the code comes back up is cuz your ecu is constantly mointoring all circuit ans sensor and if a fault does actually exist it will illuminate tills the prob is fixed

 

i know why it comes up but i'm trying to figure out what is causing it.

 

just out of curiosity is there any direct correlation between the p1105 code and defective gas cap?

 

MAP/BARO Pressure Switch Solenoid Valve is what is says online wat it means by the solenoid is the ELECTRICAL circuit of the sensor when is says solenoid it means electrical circuit

 

yea thats what i got out of it too. if someone could put a multimeter to their valve harness and turn their car on iginition that would be cool so i know if i should or shouldnt be getting 12v.... i am getting 12v

 

The best advice I can offer you is to download the FSM and perform the entire troubleshooting procedure from pages 328-330 (its for DTC: P1105) of the Engine Control section. If you can't figure it out using all of those steps you need to take it to a shop.

According to this procedure when you check terminal 2 of the MAP valve solenoid connector with the ignition on you should have battery voltage.

 

^yup i already did that. i did pin 2 with battery ground. then for the hell of it i did pin 2 and 1 on the connector to make sure that ground was working and that checked out. taking the car to the shop is not an option since they will do the same thing i am. BTW i am not new to cars or electronics, but this one has gotten me stumped since i am more of a toyota guy and this is my first nissan

 

Pin 1 goes to the ECM and the ECM provides the ground circuit when it wants to turn on the MAP valve. Have you checked for continuity between pin 1 and the ECM? I recall having a weird problem like this with something a couple years ago and simply pulling the connectors off the ECM and plugging them back in resolved it.

Otherwise, I'm thinking if you have a known good solenoid valve that has a good circuit and is getting proper voltage and is being switched on when it's supposed to it must be vacuum related.

 

i'm gonna pull the ecm tomorrow and try it, its gettin to late tonight to try that. but i will certianly let you guys know.

so tomorrow:
test pin1 and ecm
going to borrow my friends gas cap for the hell of it.. maybes its vaccum related?
my friend might also have another valve i can try even tho mines checked out as per service manual. (figure if i have access to a spare, why not try it)

 

I would skip the gas cap...but knock yerself out if you want.

No need to "pull" the ECM. Just take off the plastic panel on the passenger side and unscrew the connectors and take pull them off. It takes 10 minutes and pulling the ECM takes so long I've always avoided it!

The vacuum hose routing and "tube cluster" on the max is so whacked it could be as simple as a cracked hose but it's in one of the many hard to see places.

 

maximomo, you know what isnt it weird that i can reset the code and drive the car for as long as i want and have the code never pop up until i turn the car off and then start it back up? even tho the code wont come up for a few seconds after i start the car the second time? this makes me think its not electrical. if i unplug the valve and turn the car on ignition after a fresh code reset the code will come on immediatly

 

I think the ECM only test the MAP on startup.

Do you have the FSM?

 

^yea it test it the first time for some reason. yea i have the fsm

 

It's starting to sound more like that weird problem I had that fixed itself when I unplugged the ECM and plugged it back in. Best I can figure it had a funky connection that corrected itself.

Nissan is known for, unfortunately, weird electrical connection malfunctions like this.

For the record I own TWO of them and a Honda.

 

darn. i'm gonna run out there in a few min to unplug the ecm. do i need to actually unbolt the thing to take the harness off? or cani just pop that side off and unplug and plug in the harness? (never even looked at the side that comes off, i jsut read on the forums that it comes off) i have a i30t BTW not a maxima, but i figure its all the same stuff

 

I have an I30 that wishes it was an I30T and a Maxima. It IS all the same stuff!

Just pop the plastic panel off behind the center console section and unscrew the connectors. The connector has a 10mm bolt head on it.

 

very interesting connector. i pulled the harness and plugged it in a couple of times. first time i started it there was a check engine light (i think it was left from before) so i cleared that out. drove the car around, turned it off. turned it back on. drove around. turned it off, drove around, turned it off. so far so good. we'll see tomorrow. if this fixes the problem i'm gonna be soooo friggen happy.

 

Good luck! I hope that fixed it and wouldn't be surprised at all if it did.

 

Umm...so wait...your P1105 code had to do with vacuum?

I just got one this evening and it said the car wasn't able to get into 3rd (which it was doing actually). However, I got an 00VI on Saturday (installed a new Knock Sensor at the time as well) and it did feel like I didn't have any top end at times (maybe it WASN'T shifting?). Really weird.

I scanned it with an OBD-II reader. I have 4 codes. 2 actual and 2 pending. I have P0171 (Generic - System Running Too Lean Bank 1) and a P0171 Pending. I also have a P1105 (Generic - DTC definitions not found! Please refer to vehicle service manual.) and a P1105 Pending.

I guess I'll have to check for a leak.

 

heh, woke up, started the car, drove it 20 feet and then bam.. check engine light. i hate this code. i will try some other things when i get back from work

 

Viper, do you have an 00VI?

Mine is acting up like crazy. Today I drove to work and I had a 1500 idle and a loud noise (sounded like a leak) coming from under the hood. I went to the gas station to buy my usual morning munching snacks and when I started the car again, the car ran fine with a low idle and no leak sound. WTF? I should have just stayed stock. As soon as I got my 00VI this crap happens. What a f'in waste of money.

 

whats a 00vi? my car runs and drive normal. it feel like all the power is there. i just have that code.

 

2000 Maxima intake manifold. 00 Variable Intake.

I see.

 

^ i think we have completely different problems lol

 

I have the same code as you...unless it's possible that the codes can have more than one meaning?

 

since you changed your manifold it sounds like you might have a vac leak somewhere. have you checked that?

 

Working on it. I work full-time so I haven't had the chance. The code came up yesterday.

BUT...now that I think about it...it does sound like I do. Maybe the place I pulled that picture above from is just wrong and my code is in fact a leak just like yours.

 

Wow I feel dumb.

I just typed in P1105 into the A32 CEL Decoder that pmohr got and it came up with your code.

I was typing in 1105 (without the P) before and I should have noticed that that flashing code translates to P0733.

I feel retarded.

We do in fact have the same code bro. I'll probably be checking leaks today, I'll let you know what I find. I know that my leak 'noise' is coming from just in front of the throttle body. I just need to get in there and check it all out.

I feel much better now. Means my transmission is fine. lol.

 

haha nice! i just picked up new vac hose today. i checked it al yesterday and everything was tight and i didnt see any cracks, but i figure ill just redo all the lines. maybe there is something that i dont see.

 

I'm going to try the old soap and water trick to see where it bubbles.

It's funny how we both got the code so closely together...it's almost as if it was destined for us to provide the Maxima community with a fix. haha.

 

heh.. well its not the gas cap.. i figured i'd try anyway and borrow my coworkers cap.. well tonight i'm going to take everything apart and replace the hoses. i figure they are 10 years old, time to replace them anyway even if they are ok. hopefully i spot something out of ordinary and can fix it

 

ok so heres the update. replaced all vaccum hoses with new hoses. still have the code. i also tested 2 map sensors. my old one kept showing a output voltage of like .69v which means its garbage according to the sm. the new one looks different than my stock one but the connector is the same. this one outputs 3.9v which is good according to the tsrm, but i have no idea why when there is vaccum it doesn't switch down to 1.4v like it says in the manual


new used one


original one



what was weird is that i had bought one from autozone brand new that looked like my original one and it didnt work neither. perhaps i got a bad one?



btw is there anyone local with a 98 maxima that i can borrow their working sensor to try? i'm in the newark, nj area at NJIT

 

hey i need someone to confirm this wiring for me. looking at the map sensor (boost) that harness i have from the left to right white black red. according to the manual white should be in the middle. so black white red. can anyone confirm this for me

 

I ThINK ITS FIXED!!!! no one else should have this problem so this info might not be handy to you. but when i first picked up my car it was sitting and some rodents got to the wiring harness. i ended up going to the junkyard and cutting all the smaller harnesses off for $5 (ended up with a huge bag full) so i guess when i was matching connectors there was another connector with the same colors but the white and the black were reversed. as i was eying down my fsm very closely i noticed they kept saying test the white wire but in the diagram mine was on the left, not the center. so i whipped out the multimeter and tested my white wire to the ecu and it was the right wire. so since then i swapped my ground and white wire and no light. soo happy. thanks guys, especially maximomo.

 

I think mine is fixed...although it's a completely different fix since I have an 00VI lol.

However, since it's the same code...I'll chime in.

When I took my 00VI off to fix a valve cover leak that developed after the initial install...one of the vac. lines must have come off and I didn't notice.

I plugged in the line in the pictures and drove around after clearing the codes. So far, so good.

 

Can you give me some more detail? I'm no longer 00VI'd and still have this code. All my vac lines are plugged in (so my "fix" doesn't apply).

What harness? To the MAP/Boost sensor on the air intake snorkle?

 

Bump. I'm still battling this code an a P0105 (which might be related - changed that sensor too) and can't fix it. Replaced the hoses as well.

I'm not good with multi-meters. Anything else I can try?

 

I know this is an old thread, but I just had this issue come up and this helped me out a pretty decent amount so I figured I would share if anyone else came across this outdated thread.

http://autotechdiagnostics.com/?p=194

 

I had this same problem. it was a bad tranny to engine ground. threw a new ground on there and boom. all better