Guys, you are my last hope.
I have a 99 calispec SE limited edition on stick shift and I love my baby.

I need to replace my knock sensor. I've searched a lot on this topic and found a few write ups on how to do this, such as:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507 and couple of others

But, I have tried it and it is absolutely impossible to do, the wrench simply doesn't fit in there and especially if it is a torque wrench (they so damn big).

Are there a Nissan technicians on this forum. I need full instructions on how would mechanic do this, because they all rate it as a 3-4 hour job at a price of $300 and up. One of them said it's a cuz you have to open up the manifolds.

Guys PLEASE help me with this issue I am in despair.

 

its not bad at all. Why are you using a torque wrench? Use a combo box/open end one or a small ratchet. the bolt is 12mm. You have to remove the plastic air intake parts too. That is the snorkel, resonator and that. My friend has a 98 and he took off the one valve that sits right on the bottom of the hole. GL!

 

Where are you located? Ask in the regional forums.

 

i heard that 99 calispec had less room and very hard to do. on my 97 i just used a long extention, atleast 1foot and a 12mm socket flex http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0P?vName=Tools
i tried to use a universal swivel one but it was too tall and some1 here said to get the socket thats already was a 12mm and it worked great. remember to replace sub harness. Hope that help. Maybe some1 else with a 99 calispec can give you more detail.

*edit*
also get a extension magnate to pick up the bolt if it falls.

 

It is pretty easy. I changed mine for 5 minutes without cuts on my hands. If you live around me I would change it for you. Where are you located? You just loosen the bolt then put your hand in the well of the engine and take the KS with the bolt out. You put the new one in and tie it up. Do not forget to check the wire and clear the ground! Good luck

 

I have huge hands....no way I could reach it. My girl was able to get in there. I have a CAI so I had plenty of room but it is a pisser to get the socket on the nut. She had to finagle it a bit. I followed the instructions that are posted on here already....no sweat. A Calispec might have more crap w/ the stock snorkel but I can't imagine where the KS is located. Not much room there to begin with. Good luck!

Btw, I used a uni swivel and 12" of extension. Had to SUPPORT the ext to get enough torque to free the nut.

 

How do I post photos. I uploaded them to the picasa galery, but I have trouble posting them here. Than I would show what exectly I am dealing with. As it is instructed I removed intake up to TB together with battery, also pulled couple of houses that where in a way, but still I can't imagine a possibility of fitting a hand there, even a small wrench is problematic.

So help me with uploading pics and we'll work from there.

 

Changing a knock sensor is a pain in the ***, but can be done without removing upper intake manifold. I changed mine in about 45 min. Uninstalling the intake and piping with help you also.

To post pics make sure you have a [IMG]http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/www.asdadotcom [/ IMG] like that.

 

Thanks for that link on how to replace the knock sensor without yanking the intake. It was tight and I have about 5 cuts, but it only took 20-25 minutes.

On the test ride afterwards, already seeing improved performance and power.

Thanks again.

 

Post pics Yankel...i know this day is coming soon for me.

 

[IMG]http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/http://picasaweb.google.com/yashasland/KNockSensor#5265698078941019298[/ IMG]

 

Ok, so haven't figured out how to post pictures yet, but here is the link to them:
http://picasaweb.google.com/yashasla...37698810036562


#1 is where I need to reach
#2 is what in my way (I don't even know what that is and can I safely remove it)
#3 is seemingly where #2 is mounted which is also tough to reach, but it is doable.

So what would you suggest guys?

 

How do I find regional forum. I am in upstate NY, Rockland County

 

..you should be able to move #2 no problem, so long as you remember what you move and to put it back! Technicians will usually definately remove the manifolds, unless they have small hands! lol. Ive never done it on a 99 however, but my cali spec 96 was a breeze! Good luck!

 

Remove #2, replace the knock sensor and put #2 back.

 

Can someone tell me what the #2 on my pic is, and what does it do?
and ones more, please explain me on example of my link how do I post a pic.
Thank you guys, you have awakened the hope in my eyes. I really appreciate it.

 

I'm in Pearl River, but I can't help you. I couldn't change mine either its pretty tough man, especially if you have big hands. Good luck though.

 

I won't have time to do anything tomorrow, but I'll do it on Monday.

Can someone still explain me what is the thing #2 on my pic (there are 3 pictures there) and what does it do. And if there are any extra details on removing and reinstalling it that I should know.

Also please explain me what did I do wrong in one of my posts that my picture is not showing up.

 

I don't know what that is, I have no experience with Cali Spec Maxi's. Shouldn't you have a Fed Spec anyway?

 

Should have, could have, would have it's a different story but it is what it is.

 

I think it's pointing at the Power Valve Actuator

 

If you have a bit of a zoomed out picture with arrows, I could tell more easily. It if is the PVA - and I'm pretty sure it is, you can remove it then put it back. It's probably easier though to remove the Upper intake Manifold Collector unit as a whole. Buy the gaskets and replace the Hex Bolts while your at it....very easy to do...and you have the torque wrench already.

The PVA is operated by vacuum that is stored in the surge tank..hence that small vacuum hose close to your arrow. You could symply remove vacuum hose if that would help, but I can't remember if the PVA can be removed without removing the Upper Intake Manifold Collector first....you need to look at the design. More photos needed.

The PVA works with the Power Valve Solenoid to control vacuum ON/OFF supply from Intake Manifold....of which the actual power valves are located inside the ITM.

 

By the way Yankel - it looks like one of your barbs in the photo is missing a vacuum hose. Not sure if you removed it for the photo or not.

 

Yes I did remove two hoses, one big and one small, nt for picture though but to free some space.

 

The problem with the PVA, is that I remember the fasteners on mine being extremely corroded - this is what was holding it to the Upper Intake Manifold...therefore to move IT out of the way, you would need to remove 'the lid' ...since IT is attached to 'the lid' maybe fused by rust.

 

I have uploaded a few more pics to the same place, just go there and scroll to the left or right(the button on top of the pic). Number 1,4 and 6 are better(zoomed out).

Also tell me about removing Upper intake Manifold Collector as a whole unit. And even more important how to put it back; what pressure do I need and in what order should I tighten the bolts. Preferably with pics. Also do I need to polish the connecting edge before putting the cover back (like in a head gasket case), or just wash it, close it back and tighten the screws?

BTW thank you guys, I really appreciate you help, I have already done so many things to my car, and at the same time saved so MUCH money $$$

 

This is the gasket that I need, right? Do I need all of them or just the top one on a picture? Also does the brand matter, should I bother getting the Nissan original or just get any(cheapest)?

 

OK I'll check those photos - I can walk you through removing the Upper Intake - it's very easy - but in the mean time you have to locate the PDF FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your model, download it, and locate to the area I will tell you. Do you have the location of where these PDFs are stored?

This is the bible that most of the 3rd gen guys work from - it's all you need to dismantle your car piece by piece. Reason I checked your post is I have to change my KS too, but i'm removing the engine soon, so i'll just do it then - it's way easier when it's out of the car.

 

Just buy the cheapest - you'll likely only need to remove the TOP lid so you'll only need the 1 gasket. Ishino is fine - buy the metal type gasket...probably around 5 bucks.

 

Don't buy anything until you have checked the service manual...or you could be wasting money. The procedure will be very close to the 3rd gen, but there will be minor differences. The first step will be to create masking tape labels to match the barbs to the vacuum hoses you'll be removing.

While you have your UIM off, you'll likely want to clean it out like I did - mine was dirty as hell. It had gunky oily residue THICK **** caked on. I used Varsol first and scrubbed it out with a slot screw driver. Then I used Methyl Hydrate to remove any remaining residue from the dried Varsol.

Again, I have to see your FSM (I have it on my HD somewhere), but you may have to loosen the EGR Flare tube or potentially remove it. All very easy.

 

The UIMC need to be opened in a certain order - as it needs to be closed in a certain order. Nothing needs to be polished, although when you clean it with the Varsol & Methanol, it will be polished pretty much. You can clean the upper polished edge of the Lower Intake Manifold Collector at the same time. Don't drop anything in those holes when the lid is open...and don't let any bees or moths fly in there. Plug the holes with plastic bags.

I applied a light coating of engine oil on the new gasket when I installed it - although this may not be necessary or even prudent. I just don't like installing stuff dry, so I did it. The FSM will tell you if you need to or not. Buy Anti-Seize now [Loctite C5-A] around 5 bucks, you'll need it.

 

I have the FSM for 4th gen Maxima as well as FAST software, but that is only for part number look up. So, you just have to direct me to the right area. The Anti-Seize has to be precisely "Loctite C5-A" or let say this or any other one is also OK? And where do I get Varsol and Methyl Hydrate from? BTW I have the stuff that I cleaned my IACV and TB with if it helps, but I guess I'd rather get Varsol and Methyl Hydrate. I got the FSM from download section on www.phatg20.net

 

Any good Anti-Seize will be fine - that's just what I use. What state do you live in? Methanol (Methyl Hydrate) is banned in parts of the US, but Varsol is available at Home Depot in the paint section. If varsol isn't available you could use Mineral Spirits instead,...but I would have to check up on it... and possibly kerosene. Methanol is another name for Wood Alcohol or Methyl Hydrate - it's 99.97% Pure alcohol so dries with no residue.

Check your FSM if you have a section called EF&EC. Go to the index and try to find INJECTION REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Also cross reference with the EM Section and check the index for CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL.

Remember that you only do the VERY initial steps for these sections to open the lid. You don't need to remove the timing belt for example, because you aren't removing the cylinder head completely - you are only cheating by using the beginning of these procedures to do what you want to do.

I'll check in later - i'm starting my spaghetti sauce now.

 

I forgot to tell you - Once you do find the Methanol (And i'm sure you can find it an any industrial supplier if it's not banned where you live), be sure to handle it with Nitrile gloves. These gloves will only cost you 5 bucks but are necessary to prevent methanol poisoning. If it touches your skin, it seeps into your body and goes to your liver and converts to formaldehyde - not good for your liver. As well, 4mL into your mouth (splash) can make you blind or be fatal in due time...so keep your mouth shut.

I suspect this is why it's banned in some parts of the US. I've heard funny stories of drunk Canadians who tried to make moonshine out of the stuff - up north - and they ended up killing themselves from Methanal poisoning. That said, you'll love the stuff - and start using it for lots of things. It works great...just KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT.

 

Yes I know what Methyl Hydrate is, can I use Ethyl the "drinkable alcohol" or Acetone instead?
leave in NY but can stop by in NJ too. I checked online right now and I can't find neither of them, I'll walk in tomorrow (Home Depot) and I'll try my luck there in person.

I am also kind of busy, I am doing my take-home midterm. By the way enjoy you meal. Where do you live?

 

I'm sure Ethanol (Ethyl alcohol) will be a good substitute. Basically - you want a solvent that won't leave too much residue. Varsol is used in industrial plants all the time to remove engine varnish - I think it will be fine with just the Varsol...you probably don't even need the second step, but I did it to be safe. Just buy a big jug of Varsol at Home Depot found in the paint section (4L). You could try the Ethanol after if you find some residue...but it may be overkill, your call.

http://www.recochem.com/en/index.php...rs/item/varsol

Download the Solvents & Thinners PDF Brochure - these will cover most of your automotive cleaning...except for things like Electronic Contact cleaner for wire harness etc.. or MAF.

Don't forget when you clean metal with any of this stuff - it leaves it open for corrossion as it's 'bare' - so you want to coat the metal in a lubricant such as oil then grease - to stop it from rusting.

When you go through the motions of removing all this stuff - document what fasteners you are removing and replace them as you go along. Your car is getting old now, and the worst thing you want are worn out bolts or nuts breaking or stripping on you from corosion and heat damage. So now's your chance to get them while you can.

Try to use a penetrant on stuff before you loosen it - to prevent it from shearing right off. Spray them a day or two before you work on it..maybe twice. If you break one of those plenum bolts - you are looking at a ***** of a job to fix it. One of mine stripped and I worked on it for 3 days to get it out and failed - I had to get the car to a mechanic because I didn't have any more tools or means to do it - 1 bloody bolt...the last one...to get the UIMC off. I get bad winters too like NYC (I'm in Toronto) so I know what your engine is going to look like.

 

Thanks for all the info. I just want to get it straight, I understand that coating and residue are two different things, but do I need to coat the inner of IM with some lubricant or my goal is to clean it as well as possible and quickly cover it back before any "corrosion causing matters" (water, moisture) will catch on it.

And another thing is, what exactly do I need Anti-Seize for?

As a penetrant I usually just use WD40, would you suggest anything better or WD40 is fine?

I'll spray all the bolts tomorrow and I'll do the job on Monday.

Roughly would you say how long should it take?

 

I'm turning in now - the sauce is done.

I didn't coat the inside of the IM with anything - as I figured as soon as I fire back up the engine - the oily slime will just coat it itself. I could be wrong though - maybe you should look into that. Anti-Seize should be used for every fastener you remove, when you re-install. Remember to use the LOW range of the torque value in the FSM to compensate for the anti-seize adjustment. I wouldn't use WD-40 around my car ever. Every time i've used that stuff in the past, it's actually created rust faster. My suspicion is because it actually eats away to remove oil & grease [it's 50% Stoddard Solvent], one actually thinks it leaves a good coating...but in fact it actually wears off rather quickly. You can use it but don't spray it on other stuff - and if you do, wipe it with oil or grease afterwards.

If you've never done it before - it may take you 8 hrs...but that's only if stuff get's stripped or seized...if not, maybe faster.

 

So, what should I use instead of WD40 as a penetrant?

 

PB Penetrating Catalyst
http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=4

And they have a new product, PB 50 (I think they chose 50 to 1-up WD-40)
http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=1

Most autoparts and hardware stores have the PB Penetrating Catalyst.

Dr J