IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

So a couple of days ago, I'm idling the car first thing in the morning and I notice the RPM's falling to around 500 and back up to 600. Car is almost stalling but catching itself.

Today, I'm driving home from being out and if I give the car 10-20% throttle (I'm guesstimating)...the car bucks and otherwise doesn't want to accelerate. If I let off the gas, car coasts perfectly fine. If I give half throttle or more, car moves like it should. Why is it only 'catching' in that particular lower throttle range?

I have had a P0171 code for the last 11 months...been trying to fix and haven't had much luck. However, when I scanned the car just now with my scanner, I got:

P1105 - Generic - Pending
P1105 - Generic
P1105 - Generic - MAP/Baro Circuit Malfunction

My P0171 code was nowhere to be found. Light (CEL) was actually off earlier in the week. Perhaps it solved itself?

I also noticed a funky smell as the car was 'sputtering' at idle (I'm outside). It's not gas, it's not oil, it almost smells like what the PCV valve does when you pull it out.

I have a spare (my stock) MAP/Baro sensor (located on the intake snorkle) that I'll try replacing but is what I am experiencing a symptom of that sensor being bad? It almost felt like the MAF (when the MAF is bad it won't let you go past 3k rpm) or possibly the TPS.

fflint_18

Sounds like a Throttle Position Sensor problem I had a few years ago with mu Acura.

hellsoldier35

I have a similar problem with mine, but it only acts up when stopped or going under 15mph, otherwise it runs like a dream. Help me also please

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

check to see if you have any vacuum leaks somewhere, or if maybe a hose cracked or came undone. ill keep my eye on this thread cuz i too have p1105

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

I hate leaks. I can never find them. I've tried spraying TB cleaner and stuff for the P0171 code I have/had (looking for leaks). None ever came up.

I'm getting tired of these stupid CEL's. I might just bring it to the dealer and tell them to tell me everything that's wrong in the engine bay so I can just fix it and be done with it.

hellsoldier35

Well I don't have any codes thrown. I just fixed a vacuum leak and it's still missing. My car just stumbles at low speed and idles ruff, but not all the time. I'm just going to change the Throttle positioning sensor anyways and hope it fixes the problem, otherwise I have no clue whats going on.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Well I changed the MAP/BARO sensor to another one I had (that should be 100% functional) and the issue is still there.

Tomorrow I'm going to change MAF's.

I suck at finding leaks so I'm just going to see if that fixes it.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Here is a small clip of my problem:

http://www.anyyouth.com/other/CarProblem.wmv

Car has issues if I'm anything less than 50% throttle.

tyler5619

iTrader: (7)

i have a VERY similar problem. car idles around 500-600. HERE'S THE GOOD PART... and, while idling (out of gear), if i turn the heat on, then while turning the wheel, turn the heat back off, the tach dives, the car shakes, and DOES NOT die. it catches itself at like 100 and kicks back up.

(EDIT: if i don't turn the wheel, it still dives pretty low, but not as bad as if i turn the wheel. Power Steering fluid is completely filled to "MAX".)

dubya tee eff, mate?

please help.

subscribed.

hellsoldier35

Mine did do that in a way until I changed the MAP sensor, found a air leak, changed the MAF and now tomorrow I'm changing the throttle position sensor. So I hope this fixes it for sure. The video is very similar to my problem with it idling at about 600-900 and then it just starts to miss.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Could it be my fuel pump/relay/filter?

Maybe I just got a bad batch of gas? Isn't there some kind of chemical you can pour into the gas tank if the gas is 'bad'? Dry gas?

JBrodyA

i had the same problem, it would die at anything around 10mph or lower. I just adjust this thing (sorry for lack of a better term) by my throttle body and it picked the idle up from 500 and lower to closer to 1k, no problems now.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

That's the Idle Air Control Valve Adjustment screw. I tried that, didn't make much of a difference.

That smell I was talking about smells more like rubber burning.

Entropy

iTrader: (1)

Have any of you cleaned your throttle body?

Even if it isn't the exact problem, it should be the first thing to get cleaned when you're having rough idle problems. It may not be THE problem, but it might be contributing...

HTH

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

My TB is clean. My IACV is clean as well.

The only thing I can think of is a gasket failed since I took off the 00VI. It's been 4 weeks though...is that a possibility?

Entropy

iTrader: (1)

Yours sounds like a TPS to me...

You said in your first post that it only happened at low throttle, but half throttle was fine.

Bad gas or a fuel pump wouldn't do that, in my opinion. A clogged filter or bad fuel pump would give you worse results the more throttle you gave it.

Been a long time since I've seen it - but water in the gas might do that... but it would have to be quite a bit.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

I'm going to run injector cleaner and dry gas in combination today before I do anything else.

It could be just a bad batch. I was thinking the same thing. First time it has ever happened to me, but there is always a first time for everything right?

Also, I should mention that my TPS was bought brand new from Armory Nissan in Albany, NY in the early part of 2007 (around 33kmi) when I broke the harness on my stock one accidentally while trying to unplug it.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Well I put in Gumout injector cleaner and STP Fuel Care or whatever and ran the car at idle for a couple of minutes to get it up into the fuel lines...started to stall again but I hope by the time I get to the car at 4:30 (it's 1pm) it'll be better. I'm still going to buy a fuel filter though and replace the MAF with another one I have.

chino86

code p0171 is fuel system lean bank 1, most of the times its either a vacumm leak or a bad air flow meter. i've havent seen p1105 give any drivebility problems like that. air flow meters go bad on 4th gens all the time and they dont always give the same symptoms like unable to accelerate past a certain rpm. they will definitely cause the car to shut off and have a rough idle. make sure you reset the cel whenever you replace something it will save alot of headaches i know from experience

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

I know what the P0171 code is. It seemed to get fixed when I replaced the ECTS. Not when I replaced MAF's, injectors, re-did the gaskets, O2 sensors, etc, etc. I spent like $550 and it was a $30 that fixed it lol (or maybe it just happened to be a combination of all of the above).

Yeah I reset the CEL all the time with my scanner after I do minor work.

I'll try one of my other 4 MAF's when I get home today and see if that helps.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Another update.

On my way home the CEL starting flashing. That usually equals misfire. I'm going to go out right now and check the plugs/coilpacks. I'm still going to change the MAF and check the hoses and such but it's probably all misfire related.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Well...it ended up being a misfire code (multiple - P0300).

I took out all the coils, looked them over as well as the plugs, and re-installed everything taking good care.

I guess I didn't tighten the plugs down good enough 4 weeks ago (before the 00VI removal) while trying to fix my P0171 code.

Drove the car. Fine. All RPM ranges.

Idled the car. Fine. All RPM ranges.

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

glad you found it man.

Lance Smith

I have similar issue and had it chedked said it was a MAF sensor so I was just going to buy an new one and replace is there a difference with MAF sensor and meter are they one in same?

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

They should be the same.

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

FYI, a big enough vacuum leak will cause a random misfire, to much air not being metered

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

What is the BEST way to find a leak? I don't hear any odd hissing or anything like that. My car is fine right now except for the MAP/BAR solenoid code which I can probably fix with a simple sensor swap.

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

a smoke test is the best way, you basically fill the manifold with smoke until it comes out of the leak, carb cleaner while the engine is running also works, but it seems like you found your problem.

ZaxWhite97Max

iTrader: (4)

Sorry to awaken this near death thread but, today I was driving and my afr's randomly dropped from the norm - 14.x to about 11.x-12.x and then would flutter all over the place randomly, if i was extremely stead on the gas it would sit at about 13.5 but if i even went 1-2% more throttle it would drop down to about 11-12. I checked with a obd2 and got a new code that I've never had and yeah as the same as you guys. p1105. mab/baro sensor. The car runs like crap. and has the same problem you did, start it up in the morning at it dies (might just be because no iacv) but its getting warmer so I don't see why it would do this still. then once it's alive it'll flow between 500-600 rpm. and sit there the rest of the day. the car has absolutely no get up and go what so ever in any gear (AT) or with the over drive off.

is my afr problem related to the p1105 code, or do you suspect vac leak as well?