Lately I've been having Slightly rougher idle when at stopped at a light or when starting up - although today it was a bit warmer and it wasn't as bad.
A concern of mine is a muffled more deep sounding revving when driving -- engine just sounds more rough/muffled/bassy deep if that articulates it ok..

Current issues with my 95SE / Auto:

-timing chain being loose sounding says my mechanic
-P1400 code (EGRC solenoid)

Would this change in engine sound be because of the EGR? Or would it be because of the loose timing chain? NOTE: The EGRC code has been coming up for a while, and I was driving with the CEL on with that code for months with no change in sound. Which is why I'm looking for more input on this, if the issue got worse or if its the timing chain or what. Thanks.

Due to p1400 EGRC Solenoid code i brought the car to my mechanic.
He checked the valves and the solenoid via measure the current n what not and harness/connections etc they all appeared to be ok he said. CEL Keeps coming on though.. I keep getting the p1400 EGRC Solenoid code even though everything looked to be fine so what else could it be? Could it be the Vacuum Tube needs cleaning? (i would just replace... easier no?) or something else ??

thanks

 

The code for the EGR control solenoid valve/circuit is P1400. Is that what you meant?

A faulty EGR control solenoid should not cause rough idling, or any change in engine sound. At least it didn't on my car. As far as I know, nothing but the EGR control solenoid, the wiring and vacuum hoses to and from it, or the PCM itself would cause a P1400 to be set.

 

Oops typos.. yep. Thanks. ps. Added some info to the OP

Still looking for more input people! Any and all.


Heres the P1400:

 

The malfunctioning EGRC solenoid could be opening or slightly opening the EGR valve at the wrong times (essentially causing an uncontrolled vacuum leak) causing a misfire condition/ idling rough.

 

Defective EGRC Solenoid if I had to guess.

 

So if that is the case (defective EGRC Solenoid) would I have to replace the EGR Valve (aka EXHAUST GAS RECIRCURATION VALVE/EGR CONTROL VALVE/EGR VACUUM VALVE... etc) part Looks like the picture below? Or would it be a different part pertaining to the EGR System.. such as just the TUBE?

 

Neither, it would be the valve itself. It wouldn't be causing a vacuum leak, but it would be introducing exhaust gas into the intake when it's not supposed to, which could indeed cause it to run rough.

Have you tested the valve?

 

The part in your picture is the EGR valve itself, which is different from the EGR control solenoid valve. The EGR valve is controlled by the EGR control solenoid valve. The solenoid valve blocks and unblocks the vacuum signal to the EGR valve, causing it to open or close. P1400 indicates trouble with the solenoid valve, not the EGR valve. The EGR control solenoid valve is a small box with three vacuum hoses and an electrical connector on it, located on a little metal platform in front of and to the right of the fuel pressure regulator.

Is it possible your mechanic checked the EGR valve, not the EGR control solenoid valve?

A simple test of the EGR control solenoid valve is to unplug the electrical connector, turn the car's ignition switch to ON, and then plug the connector back in. You should here a click as the solenoid plunger moves. The part is $70-$100 depending on which dealer you get it from.

 

there is an actually egr soleniod that can cause this code it is located between the two heads and between the block and coolant tube on transmission side of vechile

 

I think thats what he checked though, only using an tool to measure the current or whatever. Not sure how successful that was... it was a part near the automatic transmission dipstick with the green electrical connector if I remember correctly.!!?

Do you see that part here:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1785_1797.html

Or would this be it? (It's $331!.....)
http://www.courtesyparts.com/31940n-solenoid-assy-control-maxima-a32b-1995-1999-p-133037.html



And if you type in search on courtesyparts: "control solenoid valve"
You get like 200 results, at least 4 of them, different prices, same name or very similar.. different product numbers.. wow. All for 95-99 max.
This is frustrating. I suppose the only way to know for sure is to try to check it again, and get the part number off of the part in the car currently...if it's legible.

 

The EGR control solenoid valve is this one here: http://www.courtesyparts.com/14956v-...-p-130361.html It's on the "223 Vacuum piping" diagram.

There are two other control solenoid valves (EVAP purge control solenoid and MAP/BARO control solenoid) that look just like it, but have different color electrical connectors. The EGR control solenoid is the one with the green connector.

Getting this part off the car is annoying - I used a 10mm flexible head ratcheting wrench. There is barely enough room to stick the four fingers of your hand (can't get your thumb in there) under the part and put the wrench on the nut, then pull your hand out and turn the wrench. I bent the little platform it's on upward a little bit and that helped. Be careful not to drop the nut.

You definitely DON'T want to confuse this with the automatic transmission shift solenoids.

 

Ok that seems to be it, the one with the green electrical connector, near the automatic transmission dipstick i think? Thats the one he checked using a meter to measure the current or whatever... I'm not sure how successful that was. He says sometimes the tool works sometimes it doesnt but everything looks fine. haha. Ugh. So I suppose I'll tell him to try the test you suggested when I go to see him this week about it.

So, if I hear a click that means it's working properly? If no click sound, it's not working properly?

 

Well, provided there is battery voltage at the harness connector, the FSM says you should hear an "operating sound" when reconnecting the harness to the solenoid valve. Mine made no sound at all. I replaced it - P1400 went away.

 

Ah yes I'm reading FSM now. Page EC-235.
Supposed to hear an operating sound every 3 seconds.

This helps a lot, he was getting some readings when he was testing it before - so I'm going to print the FSM page and bring it to mechanic, I'm sure he doesn't have a consult but that's not necessary I'll just follow your instructions to test.. Thank you for your help ATTappman, and everyone, you've been a great help. And I hope this is the issue - I can always deal with the timing chain issue later ($600 fix my mech. said for that =S) if this solves the current problem.

 

Trying to figure out which part I need, so questions, noobish but just need to be sure: CAL refers to California model? and FED+CAN means Federal+Canadian models?

 

Indeed.

 

=) Thanks for the confirmation!


Also: Does anyone know if an EGR SOLENOID CONTROL VALVE from a 95 5SPD would work in a 95SE AUTO TRANS??

 

There shouldn't be any difference for 5MT/4AT.

 

Alright, I'll give it a try

 

I pulled my codes today preparing for my inspection thats up this month. I got the EGRC solenoid code. I have a quick question about this operating sound. Recently I noticed that when the ignition is switched to the on mode(motor isn't running) I hear a rapid clicking sound. Sounds to me like 3 clicks, (click, click, click a short pause then repeats and doesn't stop). Is this the operating sound that is refered to? I never noticed it before is this normal?

I don't have a multi meter to test the harness but I guess I may have to pick one up.

 

The whole '3 second timing' thing is irrelevant unless you're testing the solenoid via the CONSULT-II.

Have you attempted to identify where this clicking noise is coming from? That's the first step...

 

O ok well I won't be testing using the CONSULT.

Only a quick inspection while checking the codes on my lunch break. I think it may be coming from the back of the engine. Almost like it could be the rear 3 cylinders. I was in dress clothes tho so didn't dive in.

I'll report back when I'm able to inspect the situation some more. I had a right bank heated O2 sensor code as well but I'm gonna assume that is either being caused by this problem or simply needs to be replaced and is not affecting this EGRC solenoid code.

 

Like you, my car just started sounding rougher and deeper. I just got a CEL code reader and got 1 code, a P1400.

I just ordered the ratchet wrench and another tool that people on this site have recommended to remove/change the EGR solinoid valve. I'm a total noob so it will be my first part replaced in the car. I'll check back once I'm able to do the swap out, since it's cold as hell here in SE PA this week.

I have another question to anyone who can answer. My gas cap area is filthy and I'm not sure why. Could there be fumes or fuel leaking when I drive. I just started noticing it this summer, but it seems to be getting worse. Should I get a new gas cap? Also, the fuel cap release handle has been a ***** to open and it has gotten really bad this fall/winter. Can that be replaced easily?

Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

I replaced the EGR solenoid valve on my own, and the car runs better / smoother, but I'm still getting stalling at stops, esp. when the defrost is on. Maybe there's a short in my electrical system causing this. The car is def. running better and my wife, who also drives the car, noticed this as well. It is also nice to not have the CEL on, since it was on for ~2 years previous to my buying the code reader and deciding to try replacing the single part that the P1400 code I pulled, called for, the EGR solenoid.

I have another part, an Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor, that cost me $25, and I'm going to install that soon to hopefully put the stalling issue to bed. Other than that, I'm thinking of asking my mechanic to remove / clean my upper intake gasket because I think there are 2 wires attached there that may be shorting (saw something on another thread about this). Does anyone know anything further about those two wires attached to the Upper intake manifold? Thanks in advance for any replies.