95slowMaxima

After doing an oil change the other night I put in new plugs, a new fuel filter and a pcv valve. Good thing I installed new plugs b/c I put about 25k on the car since I've owned it (now at 147k) and found out that I had Champion plugs installed and they were beat to hell. I replaced them with NGK coppers since I have no problem changing them every 30K.

After doing so I went for a short drive. After about 5 mins the CEL came on. I went back to the garage to investigate. I thought it might be the MAF since before when I disconnected all the intake stuff to install a new starter, clutch lines, etc, it came on. It was not. Instead I seem to have 2 codes. 1 for the ECT sensor and EGR. I tell you these little VQ's are stubborn. You give it something new it wants more Happened that way before when I replaced the MAF then the next day got a knock sensor code and had to replace that.

I was going to replace the ECT sensor first then go from there since I read on here while doing a search that most people do that. Plus the EGR is pretty pricey. When I called up to order it from Autozone they asked me what size I needed. Apparently there is 1 with a 1/8" wide terminal and another with a 3/32" wide terminal. Which size do I need?

If you guys n gals could let me know then I can replace it and go from there. Since the codes came on 2 days ago I noticed the car is really sluggish and lacks power. Not like the car is some monsterous power house any way but it just feels like its not all there. I usually shift at 3k and now when I do that since the RPMS fall to around 2k it feels has tho I am in to high of a gear and it struggles, if you know what I mean.

Also I might has well post this now. When replacing one of the plugs I noticed the left rear coil was ripped in half. For the time being I electrical taped it all up. It is working fine. I was going to order 1 coil but I'm wondering if I should just order all 6? There pricey yes but there is a place selling all 6 new for about $180 shipped and since I have 147K on the car and it is my DD back n forth to the post (about 91 miles round trip via hwy daily) I figured I might want to just do that. I see some of you have your VQ30's in for a long time after 200K and I'd like to do the same to this one. Opinions???

FYI: The cars 100% Stock, I used to have a K/N short ram on it but took it off and re-installed all the stock intake pieces along with a new drop in filter. I don't beat it at all. It's just my Daily.

Thanks

petro2342

It's a good thing you swapped them champions to ngk. My RB didn't like them and about a couple days or so they just broke lol.

I had the same thing happen with the CEL as well, but I didn't lose any power or mpg over it. So I just erased the code, but at least I know it's there.

You could always get all 6 just for back up and use them if they do go bad. I would just replace the one that's broke and use any if needed. If you want peace of mind, by all means, install all of them.

95slowMaxima

Thanks for the reply. Yea by reading on here I see that Nissan motors do NOT like anything other then NGK. I usually get 400-410 miles till the fuel light comes on so now that I replaced those Champions I'm wondering if I will get more. We shall see. 90% of my daily commute is hwy so that's why I get such good gas milage.

petro2342

No it will not matter. All a spark plug does is give it a better spark causing your car to start and run much smoother as opposed to some that are poor in quality. It doesn't effect your mpg. Sorry, but would be nice.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

For the ECTS, the 1/8" vs 3/32" terminals looks like two entirely different setups, one for the VG, one for the VQ.

The 1/8" wide terminal picture looks to be one of the older style that had a spring clip to lock the connector in place, obviously the wrong one.

It's more of the '95 crap, where the 3rd gen and 4th gen somehow get confused by auto parts stores. Notice if you look up the ECTS for a '98, only 3/32" is shown as available.

FWIW I always ask for parts for a '98 (unless I know it's specific to a 95/96), makes ordering parts a lot easier.

95slowMaxima

Thanks

I will go today and ask for the 3/32 connector. Your right about the years. If you go to Autozones website and put in a 95 max, and then search for engine coolant temperature sensor it shows two, but when you put in 98 it shows the one with 3/32" width.

petro2342

Since on topic why not ask for 97+? Or is there something special about these "98s" lol.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Personal preference, really. It's the one year they didn't make a large amount of changes from year to year.

95 there's the 'OBD-I' stupidity, and confusions with the VGs for some reason. '96 they changed up the emissions components a bit, '97 they changed up wiring and a lot of other parts, '98 not much changed, '99 is a whole other story, really.

I don't know, really no concrete reason.

95slowMaxima

This might be getting off topic but when owning a 95/96 maxima what parts do you NOT want to ask for when going to the auto store in referance to 98+ Gen 4's?

For instance when in need of a ECT sensor for your 95 you should state you have a 1998+ b/c if you ask for a 95 then you have 2 options that come up, one being wrong; 1/8" width part....

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

There's a lot of little stuff, like IAT, ABS sensors, turn signal/headlight stalks, bulbs for the stock clearance lights, etc. You could just as easily ask for any other year, but I try to stay away from saying '95' because of the myriad of confusions that seem to happen with just that year.

95slowMaxima

by reading your response in post 8 I can see why there is for people; OBD1/2

Thanks for clearing it up. BTW your max with the fogs looks nice. I think the front end looks so much better with fogs and I thought about installing some oem jobbers in there, but then keep telling myself I'm going to be spending money I don't have to on a car that's just a DD Like I said though it looks good, I like it.

petro2342

I got some yellow glass fog lights for my 97!!

sry, had to share lol.

95slowMaxima

Well I replaced the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. Piece of cake. Took 15mins if that from start to finish. After I was finished I reset the CEL and left my garage. Since a decent amount of fluid came out the sensor hole I figured I'd stop and get some antifreeze. Well about 1/4 mile from the store the CEL started flashing. It flashed about 15 times then stayed steady. I thought perhaps its the antifreeze since I lost a decent amount.

I went into the store and got some. I removed the cap and proceeded to fill up the Radiator and overflow. Took about 80% of the bottle. While filling up I noticed there was some nasty brown sludge in the Radiator once the fluid got to the top and the over flow looked like ***. I never really looked into the Radiator since I bought it b/c when I got it I replaced it with another oem one and did a flush n fill due to a leak. Looks like it might need another or a flush n fill. Perhaps even a cap since I noticed it is worn has well. I guess that's what putting on 25K will do to it unless something zizzzzzy happened.

After that I reset the CEL and drove home. I am going to go to the gym tonight so I will monitor the drive to and from to see if the CEL comes on again. Hopefully it doesn't.

I felt like the car still had a lack in power. I did not race the motor or go over 3500rpm but it just felt like it still lacked low end power. Then I thought about something. I might have done something STUPID. When you buy the expensive NGK's I know for sure there pre gaped. What about the copper NGK $1.99 or so plugs? Are they pre gapped has well? Perhaps this could be my problem if they need to be gaped. I'd appreciate a comment on that I hope they come gaped has well b/c I don't want to fugged this reliable car up

Thanks,
Judd

95slowMaxima

...You got to love CEL's. After driving some more the CEL came back on. I checked the CEL and I am still throwing a 10-5 for EGR Solenoid Valve and now I have a 6-6 for cylinder 3 misfire. The misfire could explain the loss of power that I have expressed. Could that be due to the spark plugs? Are the coppers not gaped?

I guess I will have to go buy a EGR Solenoid valve now. There about $111.00 shipped online for a brand called WELLS. Hopefully this does not turn into a big money pit

petro2342

You too??? ***!! lol. I changed my starter this afternoon and shortly after I got 0102, 0407, and 0505. Nice huh? I ignored them only because I just installed a new part so probably its registering it. When I erased it 10 min later it came back and started to flash as I was driving faster and faster. This is strange. I got back and erased it again. Didn't come back after 30 min of driving so lets hope it stays like this.

You made sure you connected everything good and not made anything loose? That can cause a misfire.

95slowMaxima

I'm sure I did not make anything loose. I used anti seize on the plug threads and even boot lube on the coil boot where it connects to the plugs. then i pushed them securely down and tighten both coil bolts, so I am sure there secure. My one boot that I electrical tapped was in cyl 1 so it's not that. Besides I read a yr or so ago about ppl on here doing that to there new coils to prevent ground outs.

Back to the Copper NGK plugs. Do they need to be gaped? I just threw them in.

nhaven

Is the code you get for the EGR P0400/0302? If it is, you might want to check the egr tube first, before you spend $111 on the valve.

petro2342

I bought my plugs and never gapped them. Just installed them. No problems.

95slowMaxima

Thanks nhaven and petro for the responses.

I just purchased a complete set of Coil plugs since I have one that I had to electrical tape and since the car has almost 148k on it. Figured I got a good deal ($190 shipped on all 6, NEW) so I went ahead and got them.

Onto the EGR cleaning. I'm getting a 10-05 code. 10 long blinks followed by 5 short blinks. I read about cleaning out the tube, but am not sure exactly which tube is the one that people clean. Could some one give me a pic and tell me what you use to clean it? Thanks

Plugs. Thanks Petro. I just never got a 100% answer has to if you gap them or not off of here. I seen people speak of the plat's being perfect out of the box but wasn't sure about the coppers. I guess when I replace the coils I will double check that there all .039 just to be safe. The coils are coming from NJ so I should have them by Friday since I'm only 2 hrs away in PA (depending on the shipper). I just hope that driving from now till they come will not hurt the car any more. I will be putting about 350 or so miles on the car (mainly hwy) so my fingers are crossed.

nhaven

Remove iacv, stick a coat hanger or something similar in the direction of the blue arrow. You will know if its clogged. The rusty looking thing to the right of the iacv attach point is the top of the egr tube.

petro2342

Here you go. Should help.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...lve-issue.html

ATTappman

1005 indicates a fault in the EGR control solenoid valve or its circuit. The code shouldn't be set by a restriction in the EGR guide tube. Test for battery voltage at the end of the harness connector. If good, turn the ignition switch to ON, plug the harness connector in, and listen for the solenoid to click. If it doesn't, replace it. You can get it from www.courtesyparts.com for about $72 plus shipping.

95slowMaxima

how do i test the batter voltage at the end of the egr harness? I guess that's what your referring to? If you are just inquiring about the battery it is only a few months old and puts outs the proper voltage.

what is the part number you are referring to on Nissans website? I'm trying to figure out which one you are talking about. Thanks

ATTappman

First, locate the EGR control solenoid valve. If you're standing in front of the car, look just to the right of the fuel pressure regulator (plugged into the end of the fuel rail). The EGR control solenoid valve is a little box with a green electrical connector and three vacuum hoses connected to it. Unplug the electrical connector, and look at the harness end with the clip side up. Put the positive lead of a multimeter on terminal #2, the rightmost one, and put the negative lead on the engine ground or the negative terminal of the battery. If the meter reads 12.6 V or thereabouts, you've got continuity between the battery and the valve.

The part is 14956V on http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-parts-a32b-1995-1999/genuine-nissan-parts/engine-electrical/223-vacuum-piping/-c-1783_1784_1814_1817.html

95slowMaxima

I will go out and buy a multi meter since I no longer have one and then check the harness

thanks

MaXiM@KiD

iTrader: (3)

FYI When your driving and CEL blinks then stays steady it's a misfire. You stated before you had a bad coil and taped it up...that would be your lack of power. As for the EGR stuff not to into that but good luck

95slowMaxima

Thanks for the reply MAXIM. I see what your saying about how I electrical tapped on of the coils but that was on cyl 1 and I am showing the misfire to be on 3. Perhaps though there was a small cut or something wrong with that coil that I did not notice. I will know when I replace all the coils. I got a tracking number for the coils so hopefully I can check once home and see when there due to arrive. Comments much appreciated

petro2342

Something like that? That's me driving btw.

95slowMaxima

I found the fuel pressure reg at the end of the fuel rail then approx 4" in front of it (toward the front of the car) I seen a green male plug with two wires coming out of it attached to a green female connector. So I'm guessing it was the right one. I tested it with a multimeter and got a reading of 12.1 Volts with the key in the
"on" position. My battery read 12.1 - 12.2 btw so I'm guessing the harness is good


***Just found these two pics on the net. This is the green plug that I pulled and check. So this confirms that I checked the right one.

http://www.fixya.com/uploads/Images/E8C5200.jpg
http://www.fixya.com/uploads/Images/AF2AF5E.jpg

I did not hear any kind of clicking though once I plugged it back in. I lost a good bit of high pitch hearing though so if it's kind of hard to hear then maybe I will ask some one else to listen

95slowMaxima

petro next time i will wear my shades and neck brace. I got whiplash watching that

petro2342

Yea sorry. It was sunset so it annoyed the hell out of me too.

ATTappman

Yes, you have the right part. Sounds like it needs to be replaced. I had the same problem - replaced the solenoid valve and that solved it.

95slowMaxima

Cool. so follow the link you provided and buy part 14956V and that should solve my problem/.

ATTappman

Well it solved mine. As long as it's not caused by a break in the harness between the solenoid valve and the PCM. It's hard to check continuity between those two points.

Be prepared for a struggle to get the solenoid valve off. The nut on the bottom is hard to get to. I used a 10mm flexhead gearwrench. You can't get your whole hand under the thing. I put the box end of the wrench on the nut with the four fingers of my left hand, then used my right hand to ratchet it backwards and then push forward until it loosened. I had to get my wife to put the nut on the new part.

MaXiM@KiD

iTrader: (3)

Any updates on this?

95slowMaxima

I replaced all of the coils last night and it seemed to have a smoother drive to it and I no longer have the noticed hesitation and loss of power that I had. Not saying it's quick b/c the car it's self is sluggish. I don't know but I think it's just not that peppy nor ever was it. This is not b/c I drive faster vehicles by any means. Who knows maybe it's just b/c it needs a moovi swap to make it feel better. Eh who knows.

(After I replaced the coils) Going from my garage to home last night no CEL came on. However coming to post this AM the CEL came on. I wanted to check it to see if it was now just throwing the 10-05 code or others, but stupid me for what ever reason reset the ECU. I am going to go to a few places on post now so the car will be shut off and turn back on about 3 times. Hopefully this will trigger the CEL to come on and I can check it then reply back.

Thanks

95slowMaxima

ok so the CEL came on. I checked it once I got back to my building and I am still throwing the same two codes; 06 06 (Cyl 3 misfire) and 10 05 (EGR Solenoid Valve). I figured 10 05 would still be there but 06 06? I just replace all the plug 200miles ago and last night replaced all coils with brand new ones. Any insight?

Also I noticed while driving the vehicle some of the harshness is coming back. Nothing like it was before but I can tell it's a little rough.

plus a little some thing I got to fix tonight. this is such a rookie mistake and I personaly never had issues with this on my old mustangs or any other car for that matter. but last night I used my tq wrench on the plugs since I was taking out the coils and I loaned it out the other night to a friend. I tq'd them all down to 40ft lbs. I was thinking of the .039 - .043 gap specs on the plugs. so instead of tq'ing them to the 19 - 22ft lbs I almost doubled that. I know it's not causing the misfire b/c this code came up prior but still I'm going to fix it.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Have you ohmed out the injectors?

95slowMaxima

No I have not. What's the process? Are you refering to listening to them through a screw driver for the tick tick tick....? Also how to you get to the three rear injectors since there not visable like the front 3 above Cyl 2 - 4 - 6?

Thanks - much appreciated

ATTappman

No, "ohming" means connecting the two leads of an ohmmeter (or a multimeter set to measure resistance) to the two terminals of the injector. IIRC the resistance is nominally about 11 ohms.

To get to the rear injectors you have to remove the intake manifold collector, otherwise known as the upper intake manifold.