Since wed my car starts at a third attempt.
I think the car starts fora quarter second and dies. I see the rpm rise to about 100-150 and it dies.
Sometimes it starts from second atempt , usually 3rd.

It's not that cold now 35F, and my fuel filter is new. TB/IACV cleaned 6 months ago.

Is it a starter problem ?

 

So after the third try it starts and idles just fine on it's own? Have to use the gas pedal at all to keep it idling until it warms up?

Have you tried to keep it running after the first time you try to start it?

It's possible that it's a starter issue, but if the engine starts running and dies, it's most likely an idle control, coolant temp, etc issue. Any codes?

 

scan codes and get back to us.

 

No codes , coolant temp sensor is 2 year old;

Yes, after the second or third try it starts and idles fine.
I didn't have to use the gas pedal to keep it idling.

I didn't try to keep it running at the first try because it was dying too fast: Like for a 1/4 second it would idle to 100-150 and die.
I never had this problem before.
Also I have a starter noise when it's cold below 50 but it shouldn't be a problem.

 

If I press on gas pedal while turning the key, car starts from the first try; with engine hesitation at 200rpm though, and then it idles at the regular 750rpm.

I just need to give it some gas to pass the 150-200rpm point when engine hesitates and dies.

What could be the problem ?
What controls the idling during starting ?

 

The IACV does, same as any other idling scenario.

I'd pull the IACV, see how it looks. Sure, you cleaned it 6 months ago, but still worth a shot.

 

there is a fuse under the hood I believe its eccs (pmohr step in if I'm wrong) check that fuse.

 

im not sure if im right or wrong but wouldnt the check engine light not come up in the on postion?? if that fuse was blown or the ecu was bad?

i dont think its a ecu or eccs problem cause he wouldnt get anything at all when attempting to start.

like pmohr says i would suspect the idle control or some where along them lines

but on the other hand check out that fuse and what not it would eliminate that out

 

I will open the fuse box and check that fuse. Pulling IACV is a good idea too; I will check it on the weekend.

Six month ago when I cleaned TB/IACV, I also cleaned the egr tube because it was completely clogged. May be some cr@p from egr system went up to IACV ?

Also it was warmer today and out of 4 starts, 3 times it started without help of the gas pedal. Out of these 3 , the first started with a strong engine hesitation when rpm were passing 200, and the other two starts were fine.

I will post an update on friday.

 

i actually have an incredibly similar problem, not to thread jack but it might be the same thing, here's my observation

It only happens when the car sits overnight at 30 degrees or below temps, remote start will attempt to start car and it "registers" as "on" on my remote but when I get to the car its not. I start the car manually with the key and it'll go up to 1200ish rpm once and then drop right back down and thats its off, you gotta give it gas and hold it in for at least 2 seconds so it can stay running on its own. only code at the moment is p1400 but a while ago it has a couple more since I dont have an o2 sensor.

Havent cleaned my IACV but really contemplating on it when it gets warmer. My EGR was was clogged completely when I cleaned it back this January. If it matters, the car has 305k miles and there are no other problems once its warmed up.

 

Undoubtedly your IACV. Cleaning it takes well under an hour, and 90% of that time is the actual cleaning process, not wrenching on the car.

Your remote start doesn't have either voltage sensing or a tach function? That's...odd, usually they have both, if not one or the other.

 

It has a wire connected either to the coils or injectors, not sure which but it has a wire there from the remote start. Its odd that sometimes It'll retry to start the car and sometimes it'll just show the "pollution" coming out of the back of the car on the 2way pager but in reality its off. Went to the alarm shop that installed it and they just raised some voltage up for cranking as they told me.

Well, looks like I'm cleaning the IACV, possibly tomorrow if my mom is released from the hospital.

thanks

 

Odd that they wired it up like that, considering that the tach wire is accessible in no less than 4 different places inside the car. Directly behind the instrument cluster, no less; not more than a foot from where the rest of the connections are likely tapped.

 

I could be wrong about that being a tack wire... I just know there's a wire connected either injectors or coils.

 

Well it has to be either a tach pickup or a half-assed harness repair.

 

Well, they got "lifetime" warranty on installations. If you think they might've half assed something let me know and I'll go find out

 

Well the tach or voltage sense should be working, so I'd take it back for that anyway, it's unreliable as it is.

When you do, I'd definitely mention the tach wire out to the engine bay (if that's what it is, and installed by them), as it's much safer and just plain easier to tap it at the ECU, directly behind the gauge cluster, or anywhere in between.

 

No luck

I opened TB and IACV and they were clean because I cleaned them 6 months ago.
Anyway, I cleaned them again just to make sure, along with MAF sensor wire.

I pulled out the two ECCS fuses from the box near the battery and replaced with new ones.

After that nothing changed.
It starts from the second try. Sometimes from first try but I still feel the hesitation when it passes the 200 rpm point.
If I give it some gas during startup, it starts on first try.

No codes; car runs normal as usual.

Not sure if it's related, but I installed PCV from autozone 2 years ago. Does autozone pcv lasts less than original ?

Is the starter on it's way out ?

I have no idea what else to look for ...

 

I have personally fixed a 4th gen hard start by replaceing this fuse. Maybe someone can help me out on this but also if your crank sensor is not seeing the correct POS count it will not start the car. I dont know off the top of my head how to test it but its something else to check.

 

I too have the exact same problem at startup. I cleaned TB-IACV-EGR Tube, changed fuel filter all last week. I had a 03-02 code that has disappeared since I cleaned the EGR which was grossly clogged. I also have a jerking problem when accelerating at high rpm but quickly passes. Could a faulty injector cause a startup problem? I have checked for air leaks but haven't found any. I too will check ECCS fuses thanx.

 

I have two ECCS fuses and replaced both of them. The fuse box was full of cr@p inside ,and all fuses are covered in some kind of sand.
When I took the fuse out, its contacts were white like the corrosion on battery terminal.
I wonder if all that dirt on electrical contacts of the fuse box can be the cause of startup problem ?

 

Just my 2 cents, but I had the same problem. On mine, the thermal element in the TB was not working, replaced it and it starts fine in cold weather now.

See if the high idle cam is on the high cam mark when it is cold.

 

I have a 96 Maxima and when i got it it would take forever to start, There are 2 modules in the trunk, for the security and fuel controls. Try them, and there is a think called a Condenser, that is part of the starting and coil system there is a red and black set of wires running into it. its taped to the main engine wiring harness by the front right most cylinder. I have since swapped these 3 items and mine starts right up, and runs like a champ now. Its some other parts to look at, but i'm new at this and just telling you what happend to be wrong with MY car. but never know, it might help.

 

hmnn interesting...

i am also experiencing similar symptoms but only during the cold after my recent oil change (about a month ago). i thought this was normal because i put in oil stabilizer along with the 5w-30, which i am assuming gives the oil more viscosity, making it harder for the starter to crank in the cold (engine will fire up for a brief second then die). i will definitely look into this now.

 

Thanks for suggestion Jeff,

What exactly did you check with security/fuel modules in the trunk ?

You talk about the condenser in throttle body ? I looked at your starting thread, where you took that tb temperature control apart.

What did you do with condenser wires, how did you swap them ? do you have any pictures ?

Thanks

 

Help !
My car doesn't start at all now.

The starter made a humming noise during the 1st start and engine started for 1/4 sec and went up to 200 rpm and died.

I tried starting it again and now the starter doesn't turn. no sound.

Then I hit the starter with a wrench and tried again, and it made the same humming noise but no start. Turning the key couple more times results in a single click sound.

 

Have you checked your battery? Connections?

 

Battery is good, all lights are working. No codes. Last time the car started was last night.

 

Just because 'all the lights work' doesn't mean the battery has enough power to start the car.

Have you tried jumping the starter manually?

 

How can I do that ?

 

You mean pushing the car?

 

Cross the two posts on the starter with a screwdriver or something. That'll tell you if the starter works or not.

 

Push starting has absolutely nothing to do with the starter, so no.

 

Which posts do I have to cross ? Can you be more specific about what I have to do ?
I never dealt with the starter before.

 

There are two posts on the back of the starter. Connect them with a screwdriver.

There are only two of them, so it's not like it'll be hard to find them.

 

Ok so after connecting them I should try starting .... If it won't start it means starter is dead ?

 

When you cross the posts, the starter should crank the engine. If it doesn't, then it'll be a starter or power supply problem.

That's just what I'd do, quick check to make sure the starter works.

 

Before crossing the posts, should I put the key in the on position ?

 

If you do, the engine will start.

Doesn't really matter either way, the starter gets a constant B+, not switched.

 

Nothing happens.

There are some sparks when I cross the posts and that's all