dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

I was staring down in my engine the other day due to coil issues and noticed this. Got a few pix today.

http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2

http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2

http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2

http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2

http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2

http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2

http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2

http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2

http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2

Is the oily gunk around the gaskets normal? My car only has 89K but has been running with the P0400 CEL for about a couple of years or so. Had the coil trouble a little over a week and am waiting for maximaguy's coil shipment.

Forgot to mention. I have been running Mbil 1 the older orginal kind 5W30 oil for years. Recently, when I ran out of Mobil 1, last couple or might even be only the last oil change switched to Castorl Syntec full synthetic. Oil Change intervals are around 7500 or so miles. Can that be the problem?

maxfever1987

iTrader: (93)

u my friend have front and rear valve cover gaskets leaking, 4th gens are know for this

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

I didn't know about this and 4th gens. So, it doesn't seem that bad. Should I hang tight or do I need to get that fixed asap?

Snypa

iTrader: (35)

gunk not normal...possible leak.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The longer you wait, the more you'll have to clean. Other than that, there's no problem driving around with leaking valve cover gaskets.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Well, I did something STUPID. I cleaned up the film of residure and I will watch it. But I opened the radiator cover and some coolant leaked out. So, I hosed down the whole engine. I sprayed into the places where there was oil residue. Now, the car won't even turn over. The starter doesn't engage at all.

I will let the engine dry and try again. I have hosed down the engine when the car is warm before without issues. I hope I didn't fry something. I popped open the fuse panel (haven't checked the actual fuses).

Hope I didn't fry something.

Stupid me.

How easy/hard is swapping out the valve cover gaskets? I think only the rear one has the issue and only in that corner so it seems.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

If you had the fuse box open anyway, why not actually check them?

It does look like just the rear one, but given that the front one is a bit easier than the rear and has been subjected to the same conditions, might as well change both.

The rear isn't hard to change at all, it just takes a bit of time to get the UIM off and back on. You should do any other planned maintenance at the same time, like cleaning the TB and IACV, replacing the PCV valve, fuel filter, etc.

Also i'd replace the plug tube grommets as well, instead of just the valve cover gaskets.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Ok I checked the fuses. They seem OK. When I turn the key, the starter doesn't even engage. I looked in and it seems there was a puddle of water near the KS. I used a leaf blower and blew most of the water out (tried to suck it up with a towel without luck). Blew all the water off. Even tried to jump start it but the starter didn't turn at all.

Decided to leave it alone (no replacement coil so I will hang tight). Will let the engine air dry and then see.

Any other thoughs? All lights are fine, alarm is fine. Windows roll up and down fine.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Auto or manual?

My basic 'won't crank' diagnosis goes like this - battery, connections, starting with shifter in all positions (auto) or jumping clutch switch (factory 5MT), jumping starter to make sure it works, further diagnostics from there.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Auto. No mods. The starter is way down there under all the tubes. Is there a good way to get to it without tearing up the arms? I already got a very bloody finger trying to suck up the water. I have a couple or more days to let it air dry as I am waiting for the coils.

Luigi38

iTrader: (2)

let the starter dry, then hit it gently with a ratchet or a bar, this ussually lets the solenoid work.
Make sure no water got into the intake ?!

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

Re: valve cover leaks...

Curious if there are simpler ways to fix. Seepage from VC gaskets are not under pressure, and should be pretty easy to seal. Tighten all the cover bolts down a 1/4 turn or so, maybe even seal the edges with something like silicone or permatex? I suppose it's sloppy and not as elegant as replacing the VC gaskets, but has anyone had success with trying other methods?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Tightening up the bolts won't help if the gasket has cracked, and if you're already there to tighten up the bolts (for the rear) it only takes another 5 minutes to change.

You could use RTV everywhere (I did that on my front cover before I replaced the gasket) but why half *** it? It's not like the gaskets are expensive.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. Please keep the ideas coming. Tried this morning. No crank still. Check all the fuses and they are all good. Swapped all the fuses with same numbers from other places for Alternator, ignition and starter and still no dice. There is still water in some places (just drops or droplets) so I am going to continue to let it dry.

I haven't tried the differnt gear technique yet. Once I don't see any water in the bay, I will try other thoughts. Hitting the starter is certainly an option but I honestly think water got to the alternator and the starter so even though its so hard (the gorgeous carolina day ain't helping) to wait, I will wait this one out. But I appreciate any and all ideas.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE.

It was a false alarm guys. It was the immobiliser (sp?). Yesterday, my wife was cleaning all our cars' dashes and my 4 year old sneaked into the driver's seat. He must have removed the immobiliser chip. It was lose. I just figured I'd check everything as he was in there just in case and the key practically came off as soon as I touched it. I put it back in and she lives. Just rough.

Sorry for the panic attack. My neighbors must be wondering why I kept my hood open all day.

Come on Maximaguy ship my coils already.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

What do you mean removed the immobilizer chip? The chip is in the key itself, so

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

No. In the 1999s there is another chip like thingy about 6 inches away from the OBD II port. It is supposed to also be put into your keys. At least that's what the stealer told me. They also gave me an extra one incase the first one dies or I lose it. It is like a big flash drive with a key hole and is triangular in shape. If that is not plugged in, it kills the starter so it seems.

The chip in the key kills the fuel pump if I am not mistaken.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Can you take a picture of it? That's an aftermarket part, not stock.

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Ok. I will take a shot and post. Stealer didn't say it was aftermaket and didn't charge extra for it either. They said it was a new system installed at the factory as Maxima held the dubious most stolen car title in 1997 and 1998 so Nissan added the immobiliser chip and this system on all 1999 models.

They'd have charge for an aftermarket system. No?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Not if the PO installed it, or they snuck the price in somewhere else.

And the Maxima has never held the 'most stolen car' title, that's pretty much been Integras since they first came out, IIRC.

petro2342

It's actually interesting you have that chip there. Pretty cool too. Now you can take the chip with you anywhere you go if you don't feel safe leaving your car somewhere lol.

As far as leaky gasket I would keep my eye on the oil, especially if you drive hard. I would check my oil twice a week just to be safe until you change the gaskets. Don't wanna run low on oil now, do we? lol

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Here are the pix.

http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2
http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2
http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2
http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2
http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2
http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2
http://dvpatel.homelinux.com/online/...geViewsIndex=2

It does seem like a dealer installed option. But I am 100% positive I did not pay extra for it. Only thing I paid was the $399 doc fees. I cannot find my original papers. I will find 'em and check and post back but it ain't gonna be anytime soon.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

yeah, that's an aftermarket 'security system', probably a Starguard one. The older ones didn't have the cutout in the middle and you could bypass one with a quarter.

LOL, looking at the next pic a quarter might still work~

dgbear

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmohr

Tightening up the bolts won't help if the gasket has cracked, and if you're already there to tighten up the bolts (for the rear) it only takes another 5 minutes to change.

I think the issue is the amount of time it takes to replace the rear VC gasket... This is obviously not a 5 minute job. Its takes several hours and is generally accepted as a PIA project. (Also lets don’t forget about the materials - IM gasket ~ $12, VC Gaskets set ~ $50+, replacement hoses, etc. )

If it’s going to fail every 80k or so miles... why not look at alternate measures to address the issue.

After going through the hassle of replacing my rear VC gasket (which was leaking badly) I then learned I had another leak... in the same general area... but this time from the timing cover gasket. Leaking just above the oil pressure sensor.

Not wanting to spend all the time doing this project... I used an Epoxy Putty (Marine-Tex) to address this leak. This took less than an hour to remove the wheel, clean with brake cleaner and apply the sealant. This is a sharp contrast to the $1000 that has been quoted for this job.

It not that any mechanical job is hard... for the most part I enjoy this type work (depending on weather conditions, other family priorities etc.)... it just takes tools, time, sweat and perhaps some scrapes and busted knuckles. I’d rather be spending my time having a beer watching the ball games.

If I had it to do over again I would have used epoxy on the rear VC gasket. At the least this would have allowed me to find all the leaks (and have a true assessment of the issues and cost).

One final point. If you have rear VC or timing cover gasket that is leaking above the OPS... the bad news is.... it will eventually saturate the passenger side front lower control arm bushing. Over time the rubber in the bushing will fail and the car will have major alignment problems and eat the tires in short order.

dgbear

Perhaps I'm missing something... but I do not see a problem. In what picture do you see oil leaking from the front and rear valve cover gaskets ?

I see someting around the IM... but nothing major.

Does the car consume oil or have leakage spots in the driveway ?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

There are pictures specifically of the rear valve cover gasket leaking.

The stains on the UIM also indicate what is most likely a front valve cover leak.

This is from memory, pics take way too long to load on a slow connection for me.

dgbear

Did I undersand you correctly... you did not look at the pictrues he posted (and therefor like me did not see oil leaking from his VC gaskets) ?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

What, you think I posted blindly, without ever having seen the pics?

I've seen them before, and that's what I based my posts on.

maxima1239

iTrader: (16)

There is oil leaking from the rear valve cover for sure. Look at picture 2 and 3
That SOMETHING you see is engine oil

dvpatel99se

iTrader: (1)

Just another update. After I wiped down the fine film of oil/sludge, once the replacement coils arrived, I did an oil change. I have been using 5W30 for years. I used 10W30 this time around. I believe the manual says to use 10W30 anyway. It had Castrol full synthetic in it and now it has Quaker full synthetic. The oil film has not yet returned and I have been driving the car for over a couple of weeks.

loxety

I have a 96 with 190k on it with the same oozing oil from the valve covers.. I think I add a quart of mobile 1 ep 5-30 every 4,500-5,000 miles, also have the leaking upper oil pan gasket.

jerrell22

Yeah, my 99 Max has 172,000 miles and I have that same problem. Ihave had it for a while, but has not effected engine performance that I can see.

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

all vq30de's leak from the valve gaskets.. i would consider it normal

you should be happy you dont have a GM 3.8 liter..

96blackmaxSE

iTrader: (30)

hahah true.....i say normal, that does not even look bad leak

williamhood

I started getting the same issue on my car after I added a small amount of Marvel Mystery oil to my Mobil 1 10W30 "High Milege" formula oil. Only leaks on rear cover above the exhaust manifold and smells bad. From what I have read thus far, this is a PITA job but with fairly cheap gaskets (Adv. Auto). To do this right, I should replace both front and rear gaskets and spark plug grommets at the same time - Correct?? I would assume that I should also pick up a new intake manifold gasket and PVC valve as well. Am I missing anything here??

Thanks for your answers guys! This forum has saved me lots of money and time in the past!

-------------------------------------------------------
Pearl White, 1998 SE Auto, 177,250 miles: Runs/drives Great!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It's not that bad of a job, really.

You should also clean the IACV/TB while you're in there, as well as the EGR guide tube.

All of the gaskets together will probably cost more than the eBay head gasket kit, which contains all of the gaskets you'll need for the job (~$70, IIRC).

Yes, you might as well replace the front gasket as well, given how easy it is. Also all of the plug tube seals are a given, especially the rears.

angelmaxima

Yeap a gasket leak which is very common for many cars our age, but especially our 4th gens... Mine is leaking also but it actually common enough to ignore for a while. Heard rumors that even with a repair the gasket will never sit flush again as it was off the line so eventually a leak will start all over again. Wonder if any1 can confirm or dead this opinion. Thanks

williamhood

OK. So I have the Hayes manual, the FSM and this forum to help me replace these leaking rear VC gaskets. Removing the upper intake manifold has been a pain the the butt! There are hoses that aren't mentioned in the Hayes manual that you find out about once you try to remove the upper intake. Anyway, now I see what others on this forum have mentioned about the plugged EGR guide tube. I have NOT been getting any codes about problems with the EGR and the car drives/idles/starts fine and I get 26MPG overall, BUT I must be close to having the EGR guide tube almost fully plugged cause it sure is full of crap. I plan on taking the tube off (another pain the the but given the larger EGR exhaust tube in the way) and running a wire pipe cleaner type of brush thru it. I also now plan on fully cleaning the intake manifold (already removed the IAVC and TB). I also purchased the Fel-Pro VC gasket kit instead of the OEM gaskets and will use plenty of Permatex Ultra Blue RTV sealant as needed. I'll update my experience once I get this all done and back to running condition (hopefully!!). I plan on doing the front VC gasket once I have all the other stuff fully up and running since all the parts come in the Fel-Pro gasket kit (and it is just starting to seep a bit on the lower edge).

Any thoughts on using these Fel-Pro gaskets and RTV??

---------------------------------------------------------------
1998 Maxima SE, Auto, 177K miles

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

What are you going to use RTV on? There's only one place you should be using it, and that's on the valve cover gaskets.

williamhood

I bought some Permatex Ultra Black RTV and I was planning on using it with the Fel-Pro VC gaskets, especially on the lower edge (thin bead, on the gasket itself). Do you think I need any at all given the way the gaskets are made? I was just wanting to make this thing really sealed well because I never want to have to take the upper intake manifold off again! What are your thoughts on the best way to seal the value covers?