Radiator support Question/Help
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Radiator support Question/Help
I have a questions about changing my radiator support myself.
I know there have been recent posts about this, but the search dosnt seem to work for me. In a couple of days, when i find a good day, i will be picking up the task of changing the radiator support. i was wondering what will be needed in order to change it. i know i will need a feed welder instead of a spot or stick welder and also how do i align it with the crossmember? i know i will not be using a OEM radiator support due to the economy. lol. but does anybody have specefic instructions how to change it?
I know there have been recent posts about this, but the search dosnt seem to work for me. In a couple of days, when i find a good day, i will be picking up the task of changing the radiator support. i was wondering what will be needed in order to change it. i know i will need a feed welder instead of a spot or stick welder and also how do i align it with the crossmember? i know i will not be using a OEM radiator support due to the economy. lol. but does anybody have specefic instructions how to change it?
I haven't seen any actual DIYs, but IIRC the FSM covers it. It should be a pretty straight forward job, really.
Could always see if KRRZ350 can give you some tips, I know he's done one.
Could always see if KRRZ350 can give you some tips, I know he's done one.
I've done mine 3 times already within the last year 
HectorC helped changed one as well.
I think I'm in great need of motor mounts cuz I keep tearing the rad support on the bottom right where the crossmember bolts on. I've got a few pics of my DYI if you wanna see.
92maximase30 also gets credit for helping change the support this past thanks giving (lol) we did it in 3.5 hours
HectorC helped changed one as well.I think I'm in great need of motor mounts cuz I keep tearing the rad support on the bottom right where the crossmember bolts on. I've got a few pics of my DYI if you wanna see.
92maximase30 also gets credit for helping change the support this past thanks giving (lol) we did it in 3.5 hours
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 35
From: NY
The pics would be helpful because I just looked at mine the other day and there's basically nothing to look at. Also should I go OEM on this or what because rockauto has one for $53 and that's alot better than around $200.
Not sure on a 4th gen but on my 2k1, I had to drill the spot welds in order to removed the old rad support, also use the zip gun to separate the seem. I rent a mig welder for the week-end cost me 30$.
I'm saving up to replace all 4 mounts and get an OEM support which is about 240ish
Unless you guys think its just the quality of the aftermarket causing it to rip and not the mounts leaving too much movement for the crossmember to put force on it
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 35
From: NY
Thread Starter
SCAMMER DO NOT BUY FROM FOR NOW
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okay well from what i have seen and read today, just save up and buy a oem nissan radiator support vs buying aftermarket. also could anyone post pics on how to?
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SCAMMER DO NOT BUY FROM FOR NOW
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From: Maryland
I've done mine 3 times already within the last year HectorC helped changed one as well.
I think I'm in great need of motor mounts cuz I keep tearing the rad support on the bottom right where the crossmember bolts on. I've got a few pics of my DYI if you wanna see.
92maximase30 also gets credit for helping change the support this past thanks giving (lol) we did it in 3.5 hours
HectorC helped changed one as well.I think I'm in great need of motor mounts cuz I keep tearing the rad support on the bottom right where the crossmember bolts on. I've got a few pics of my DYI if you wanna see.
92maximase30 also gets credit for helping change the support this past thanks giving (lol) we did it in 3.5 hours
can you post pics of your dyi?
I dont have step by step pictures but I do have a couple of pics I took during the process, I will try to upload em tomorrow and post some sort of instructions while at it.
First time replaced there were to lil spots welded, second time I said screw it, its probably gonna rip again so I'll save myself the welding lol
First time replaced there were to lil spots welded, second time I said screw it, its probably gonna rip again so I'll save myself the welding lol
My 2k1 has always been baby cared, but unfortunately it had to go true 4 canadian winter before I build the garage. Fall 2006 is the last time the car was on the road and before I put it back in the garage for the winter 2006, I notified that car was clunking in front and I couldn't find the problem, until I 've decided to take it a part and find out what was wrong. I discover that the front rad was totally rusted & perforated, when I removed the cross member I found out that where the bolts attached was falling a part because of heavy rust and you basically could shake the hole thing with a bare hand. I have ordered the parts true the local nissan dealer, but one thing that is clear, is this entire problem could have been easily avoided if Nissan would have painted the front rad accordingly to what it is, I mean look at the parts and there is a very small layer of black paint.
Like in any work, preparation is the key, I did sandblasted the rad support, once done I cleaned with PPG DX579. I did 3 coats of primer, then 3 coats of paints & I put 4 coats of clear. The clear may sound over kill but think of it as an additional layer of protection. Anyone who replace the front rad could also use some black undercoat product, that would do the trick but it's kind of ugly. My max no longer see winter so I preferred the paint over the undercoat.
Like in any work, preparation is the key, I did sandblasted the rad support, once done I cleaned with PPG DX579. I did 3 coats of primer, then 3 coats of paints & I put 4 coats of clear. The clear may sound over kill but think of it as an additional layer of protection. Anyone who replace the front rad could also use some black undercoat product, that would do the trick but it's kind of ugly. My max no longer see winter so I preferred the paint over the undercoat.
From what I've read about this problem is that it's rusting from the inside out. So
however you fix it. After it's back together, use spray foam insulation with a long hose to fill the void inside the support, preventing water from sitting in there.
however you fix it. After it's back together, use spray foam insulation with a long hose to fill the void inside the support, preventing water from sitting in there.
I would not recommend aftermarket for an important structural part. In some cases aftermarket will be just fine, but OEM will give you peace of mind and possibly save you a headache (and money) in the end because you won't have to do the job twice. I would order OEM from Dave B or a discount site such as www.worldpartsexpress.com
Hopefully i should have it up by the end of the the week. If i dont get held up in other stuff (were moving) 
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 199
From: Bolton, CT
For what it's worth, I puchased an "aftermarket" support at the end of last summer and it was less than $80 for the entire assembly. When I got it home and took a good look at it, I noticed the gauge of the metal was clearly less than half that of the original. I never put it in for that reason and now that I've looked at the support again I've noticed that it has now rusted out completely. I couldn't bring myself to install what I considered an inadequate part so I broke down and bought the Lower Tie Bar through a Nissan dealer on the internet. I was hoping it would arrive by this weekend because I have Friday and Monday off, just in case. I hope to take some pictures as I progress (maybe timelapse).
Really? 
That's quite a bit dude....
The aftermarket really must be crap if it's broken 3 TIMES! Either that or you aren't lining things up correctly before you start bolting/welding things on. Think about the parts and labor put into those 3 times! Could've gotten an OEM piece and done it once!
For the record I did replace mine as well over a year ago. Went OEM, Support and 2 bolts + bushings ran me $140. Just looked at it a week ago, everything still looks as good as the day I put it in. I also went over the entire piece w/ a rust preventing spray, a rust proof paint, and a rubber coating spray. I did not go the extra mile of filling the thing up with foam as that'd be another $50 or so for tools and parts and I figured by the time I move on from the maxima this rad support will still be intact.
A definite. Take Colombian Max's experience and do not go aftermarket. There was a very nice write up that was written at the time that I replaced my radiator support. I kept bumping for it to be stickied but it never was. I'll try to see if I could find it for ya. The thread title was something like "Houston we have a problem" or something along those lines. If I find it, I'll post it.
Edit: AHAH! Found IT! Check this bad boy out. Don't you just LOVE senior members who's been on here since they were 18?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...st-pt-2-a.html
That's quite a bit dude....For the record I did replace mine as well over a year ago. Went OEM, Support and 2 bolts + bushings ran me $140. Just looked at it a week ago, everything still looks as good as the day I put it in. I also went over the entire piece w/ a rust preventing spray, a rust proof paint, and a rubber coating spray. I did not go the extra mile of filling the thing up with foam as that'd be another $50 or so for tools and parts and I figured by the time I move on from the maxima this rad support will still be intact.
Edit: AHAH! Found IT! Check this bad boy out. Don't you just LOVE senior members who's been on here since they were 18?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...st-pt-2-a.html
Last edited by 1chewabacha1; Mar 18, 2009 at 06:13 AM.
WOAH Where'd you get OEM support for 140??? Its 260 ish plus tax here! Only reason I got aftermarket was cuz I got it free through my old job at the JY and the secont one was 50 bucks. I've done it 3 times but thats counting replacing the rusted OEM one. So two aftermarket ones sorry for confusion.
Really? That's quite a bit dude....
If I can get it for 140 still I'll order it asap and make a video writeup
The aftermarket really must be crap if it's broken 3 TIMES! Either that or you aren't lining things up correctly before you start bolting/welding things on. Think about the parts and labor put into those 3 times! Could've gotten an OEM piece and done it once!
For the record I did replace mine as well over a year ago. Went OEM, Support and 2 bolts + bushings ran me $140. Just looked at it a week ago, everything still looks as good as the day I put it in. I also went over the entire piece w/ a rust preventing spray, a rust proof paint, and a rubber coating spray. I did not go the extra mile of filling the thing up with foam as that'd be another $50 or so for tools and parts and I figured by the time I move on from the maxima this rad support will still be intact.
A definite. Take Colombian Max's experience and do not go aftermarket. There was a very nice write up that was written at the time that I replaced my radiator support. I kept bumping for it to be stickied but it never was. I'll try to see if I could find it for ya. The thread title was something like "Houston we have a problem" or something along those lines. If I find it, I'll post it.
Edit: AHAH! Found IT! Check this bad boy out. Don't you just LOVE senior members who's been on here since they were 18?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...st-pt-2-a.html
That's quite a bit dude....If I can get it for 140 still I'll order it asap and make a video writeup
The aftermarket really must be crap if it's broken 3 TIMES! Either that or you aren't lining things up correctly before you start bolting/welding things on. Think about the parts and labor put into those 3 times! Could've gotten an OEM piece and done it once!
For the record I did replace mine as well over a year ago. Went OEM, Support and 2 bolts + bushings ran me $140. Just looked at it a week ago, everything still looks as good as the day I put it in. I also went over the entire piece w/ a rust preventing spray, a rust proof paint, and a rubber coating spray. I did not go the extra mile of filling the thing up with foam as that'd be another $50 or so for tools and parts and I figured by the time I move on from the maxima this rad support will still be intact.
A definite. Take Colombian Max's experience and do not go aftermarket. There was a very nice write up that was written at the time that I replaced my radiator support. I kept bumping for it to be stickied but it never was. I'll try to see if I could find it for ya. The thread title was something like "Houston we have a problem" or something along those lines. If I find it, I'll post it.
Edit: AHAH! Found IT! Check this bad boy out. Don't you just LOVE senior members who's been on here since they were 18?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...st-pt-2-a.html
WOAH Where'd you get OEM support for 140??? Its 260 ish plus tax here! Only reason I got aftermarket was cuz I got it free through my old job at the JY and the secont one was 50 bucks. I've done it 3 times but thats counting replacing the rusted OEM one. So two aftermarket ones sorry for confusion.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=5&catalogid=2
$260!! My GOD! That really IS a STEALERSHIP! This is the dealership's part site that I bought it from. If you buy it online the price is only $135. When I purchased mine a couple years back it was a little cheaper.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=5&catalogid=2
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=5&catalogid=2
Now with a local disount at dealership through shop its $307 which is cheapest but STILL!!!!!
EDIT, just checked the link you posted and thats not for a radiator support... thats just the bottom piece. Unfortunately I'm using an aftermarket POS rad support and doubt I'd just replace the bottom part on it considering the fitment was crap anyway.
You dont know if they would have the full support would ya? I'll just take a look for myself lol
Last edited by ColombianMax; Mar 19, 2009 at 09:07 AM.
Well, found the support assy at your dealership and the price is also 383.75 lol BUT you get some online discount which brings it to 292.61, still not bad compared to local
??? What other parts do you need? Isn't it just the lowar radiator support that is rusted up?
If this isn't a radiator support then what is it? It's a metal piece that supports the weight of the radiator... thus radiator support. If you're talking about the entire front end then that's a whole different story! Maybe you should post a pic or link of what you're talking about to calrify things.
If this isn't a radiator support then what is it? It's a metal piece that supports the weight of the radiator... thus radiator support. If you're talking about the entire front end then that's a whole different story! Maybe you should post a pic or link of what you're talking about to calrify things.
??? What other parts do you need? Isn't it just the lowar radiator support that is rusted up?
If this isn't a radiator support then what is it? It's a metal piece that supports the weight of the radiator... thus radiator support. If you're talking about the entire front end then that's a whole different story! Maybe you should post a pic or link of what you're talking about to calrify things.
If this isn't a radiator support then what is it? It's a metal piece that supports the weight of the radiator... thus radiator support. If you're talking about the entire front end then that's a whole different story! Maybe you should post a pic or link of what you're talking about to calrify things.
If I would've known I that the bottom piece was sold separately I would've gotten it when I had the OEM still on. Doubt that will bolt up to the crap I got on now which has crap fitment to begin with anyway.
Here's a pic of everything I need, I will try to upload pics now from my job
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1897_1900.html
If I would've known I that the bottom piece was sold separately I would've gotten it when I had the OEM still on. Doubt that will bolt up to the crap I got on now which has crap fitment to begin with anyway.
Here's a pic of everything I need, I will try to upload pics now from my job
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1897_1900.html
Here's a pic of everything I need, I will try to upload pics now from my job
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1897_1900.html
Well... for everyone else who hasn't ripped up their front end, the lower radiator support is usually all that they'd need to replace... meaning around $150 then.
Good luck on that one Colombian dude... at least you aren't having any uneven brake ware anymore right?
Haha yea brakes are nice! Here's the pictures I found, sorry they were taken at night which is when worked on the car cuz the aftermarket parts store was kinda far and made it back at night. These were taken around thanks giving last year.
??? What other parts do you need? Isn't it just the lowar radiator support that is rusted up?
If this isn't a radiator support then what is it? It's a metal piece that supports the weight of the radiator... thus radiator support. If you're talking about the entire front end then that's a whole different story! Maybe you should post a pic or link of what you're talking about to calrify things.
If this isn't a radiator support then what is it? It's a metal piece that supports the weight of the radiator... thus radiator support. If you're talking about the entire front end then that's a whole different story! Maybe you should post a pic or link of what you're talking about to calrify things.
Hey chewabacha, glad you did mention the LOWER part cuz I do have a 97 that I recently purchased which will be needing the lower part within the next year or so..its not too bad on it.
I found it cheaper at courtesy http://www.courtesyparts.com/62530m-...-p-126547.html
I found it cheaper at courtesy http://www.courtesyparts.com/62530m-...-p-126547.html
So I'm going in to the stealership tomorrow to order the radiator support. My current support is literally holding my crossmember by a tiny thread. Mom "owes" me 650 for a plane ticket I got for her with my credit card, looks like I'm gonna use some of that money for the support
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 199
From: Bolton, CT
I just got in an OEM radiator support (listed as "lower Tie Bar") from a place in Buffalo because that was the closest, and cheapest I could find. It was only $129 + SH which was about $14. Here's a link to the website. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214143
This is a site mentioned somewhere above but for some reason this way in is $6 cheaper.
I took some measurements of my cheap aftermarket one that I mentioned earlier and compared it with this new Nissan one and found that the Nissan one uses 25% thicker steel. Also, on the Nissan version, where the bar passing under the engine bolts up, Nissan installs a nut plate out of even thicker metal (totaling about 3/16") whereas the cheaper one just welds the nuts to the lesser gauge sheetmetal and calls it good. The cheap one measures about 1/16" at the same spot.
I am going to begin this installation attempt tommorow and hope I can finish it in a reasonable timeframe. I plan to take plenty of pictures as I proceed, so they will be available for interested parties.
This is a site mentioned somewhere above but for some reason this way in is $6 cheaper.
I took some measurements of my cheap aftermarket one that I mentioned earlier and compared it with this new Nissan one and found that the Nissan one uses 25% thicker steel. Also, on the Nissan version, where the bar passing under the engine bolts up, Nissan installs a nut plate out of even thicker metal (totaling about 3/16") whereas the cheaper one just welds the nuts to the lesser gauge sheetmetal and calls it good. The cheap one measures about 1/16" at the same spot.
I am going to begin this installation attempt tommorow and hope I can finish it in a reasonable timeframe. I plan to take plenty of pictures as I proceed, so they will be available for interested parties.
I just got in an OEM radiator support (listed as "lower Tie Bar") from a place in Buffalo because that was the closest, and cheapest I could find. It was only $129 + SH which was about $14. Here's a link to the website. http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214143
This is a site mentioned somewhere above but for some reason this way in is $6 cheaper.
I took some measurements of my cheap aftermarket one that I mentioned earlier and compared it with this new Nissan one and found that the Nissan one uses 25% thicker steel. Also, on the Nissan version, where the bar passing under the engine bolts up, Nissan installs a nut plate out of even thicker metal (totaling about 3/16") whereas the cheaper one just welds the nuts to the lesser gauge sheetmetal and calls it good. The cheap one measures about 1/16" at the same spot.
I am going to begin this installation attempt tommorow and hope I can finish it in a reasonable timeframe. I plan to take plenty of pictures as I proceed, so they will be available for interested parties.
This is a site mentioned somewhere above but for some reason this way in is $6 cheaper.
I took some measurements of my cheap aftermarket one that I mentioned earlier and compared it with this new Nissan one and found that the Nissan one uses 25% thicker steel. Also, on the Nissan version, where the bar passing under the engine bolts up, Nissan installs a nut plate out of even thicker metal (totaling about 3/16") whereas the cheaper one just welds the nuts to the lesser gauge sheetmetal and calls it good. The cheap one measures about 1/16" at the same spot.
I am going to begin this installation attempt tommorow and hope I can finish it in a reasonable timeframe. I plan to take plenty of pictures as I proceed, so they will be available for interested parties.
Very important difference.
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 199
From: Bolton, CT
As I mentioned, it is the "Lower Tie Bar" which is how Nissan refers to it but yes it is what most call the Lower Radiator Support. As others have mentioned it's really the only part that rusts out. However, I discovered today that it is actually easier to replace the whole thing because of where some of the welds are and assuming you want to do it right.
Since I had the cheaper whole assembly I decided to make a "hybrid" out of the two. Fortunately the upper section is made from a similar gauge of metal so I think I will do OK. It also means that the money I spent on the cheap aftermarket one won't go completely to waste, plus I can practice my welding on thin gauge sheet metal before I try the real thing.
Since I had the cheaper whole assembly I decided to make a "hybrid" out of the two. Fortunately the upper section is made from a similar gauge of metal so I think I will do OK. It also means that the money I spent on the cheap aftermarket one won't go completely to waste, plus I can practice my welding on thin gauge sheet metal before I try the real thing.
I just did the lower on mine and it's fine. I feel I did "do it right" for what I had. Only problem I had was blowing through the metal when I did my welding by the radiator. Couldn't turn the heat down on the welder. All in all, I'm happy with mine.
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