Car Stalling...Now Not Starting...
03-29-2009, 01:21 PM
#1
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Car Stalling...Now Not Starting...
So here is the story...
1 1/2 Months Ago I have the Spark Plugs and Fuel Filter Replaced (tune up)
About 2 weekas after, I hit a rather large piece of wood in the streed that rubbed up againt the exhaugst. I found out that it shatter the 02 sensor in the back as well as displaced the muffler of the rest of the pipe.
Maybe about two weeks later, I noticed that the idle would not stay steady at all. I turn up my system and then the idle bounces low as hell. So I stop playing it for a while.
A Day after, the car starts to stall when I come to a red light or a stop. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn't...but it starts right back up. I went and bought fuel system cleaner and filled the tank with the usual 93 just incase it was bad gas. Still no change.
I thought it might of had something to do with that s*** i hit in the road. So i brought it to my mechanic. He said it did knock out the o2 sensors and dented in the resonator. I ordered an OBX cat back and had him install that with the new 02 sensor.
Car still does the same thing, he can't figure it out. At this point I thought it could be a misfire or some kind of issue with the fuel so I took it to autozone yesterday. Three (ODB II) came out:
P1400
P0600 >
P0141 :\
I knew about th 02 sensor, but the other ones scare me a little bit. In the same day, I found the EGR solinoid (i hope) and took off the tube, didnt find any cracks...I'm not sure how to test the vaccum part but i will try it when i have time. As far as the tranny and Ecm code i'm not sure what to do. Two months ago I had sent a used cluster to Import Plus to install glow needels. They work fine, the guages works fine. After ready posts on here I decided to switch it to my old guage. Car was wrking for about 20 minutes fin and then it started again. I thoguht it may be the AVN 6620 I tapped to the speed sensor so I too that off..still no changeds (I thoguht this would be pointed out more if I had a P0500 codes, but everytime I searched for a
P0600, people were trying this. IF anything, i hope its the EGR solinoid causing that or something.
Last night, the car dies at an intersecrtion. I go to start it and it has that weird sound of a dying starter. Went to try it a few more times still didn't work. Waited about 15 minutes and the car would not crank at all. When I turn the key, the lights come on, you hear a click but no cranking.
So I beleive the starter is gone...
Egr solinoid is causing my big issues
and the tranny and ecm can't communicate
When the car does shut down (in drive) and I bring back up the OD light blinks alot of freakin times which I assume was the tranny going into safe mode? ANy talk about tranny on a car scares me so what should I do?
I mean, just replace the solinoid and the starter? And just to be sure on a 97 SE, which one is the solinod. Looking in the Haynes, it points to the one right next to the tranny dipstick but I've heard some people say the green one which is near the manifold...Please help..I'm gonna go buy an 06' Altima if this car makes me spend another $500 on it..
1 1/2 Months Ago I have the Spark Plugs and Fuel Filter Replaced (tune up)
About 2 weekas after, I hit a rather large piece of wood in the streed that rubbed up againt the exhaugst. I found out that it shatter the 02 sensor in the back as well as displaced the muffler of the rest of the pipe.
Maybe about two weeks later, I noticed that the idle would not stay steady at all. I turn up my system and then the idle bounces low as hell. So I stop playing it for a while.
A Day after, the car starts to stall when I come to a red light or a stop. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn't...but it starts right back up. I went and bought fuel system cleaner and filled the tank with the usual 93 just incase it was bad gas. Still no change.
I thought it might of had something to do with that s*** i hit in the road. So i brought it to my mechanic. He said it did knock out the o2 sensors and dented in the resonator. I ordered an OBX cat back and had him install that with the new 02 sensor.
Car still does the same thing, he can't figure it out. At this point I thought it could be a misfire or some kind of issue with the fuel so I took it to autozone yesterday. Three (ODB II) came out:
P1400
P0600 >
P0141 :\
I knew about th 02 sensor, but the other ones scare me a little bit. In the same day, I found the EGR solinoid (i hope) and took off the tube, didnt find any cracks...I'm not sure how to test the vaccum part but i will try it when i have time. As far as the tranny and Ecm code i'm not sure what to do. Two months ago I had sent a used cluster to Import Plus to install glow needels. They work fine, the guages works fine. After ready posts on here I decided to switch it to my old guage. Car was wrking for about 20 minutes fin and then it started again. I thoguht it may be the AVN 6620 I tapped to the speed sensor so I too that off..still no changeds (I thoguht this would be pointed out more if I had a P0500 codes, but everytime I searched for a
P0600, people were trying this. IF anything, i hope its the EGR solinoid causing that or something.
Last night, the car dies at an intersecrtion. I go to start it and it has that weird sound of a dying starter. Went to try it a few more times still didn't work. Waited about 15 minutes and the car would not crank at all. When I turn the key, the lights come on, you hear a click but no cranking.
So I beleive the starter is gone...
Egr solinoid is causing my big issues
and the tranny and ecm can't communicate
When the car does shut down (in drive) and I bring back up the OD light blinks alot of freakin times which I assume was the tranny going into safe mode? ANy talk about tranny on a car scares me so what should I do?
I mean, just replace the solinoid and the starter? And just to be sure on a 97 SE, which one is the solinod. Looking in the Haynes, it points to the one right next to the tranny dipstick but I've heard some people say the green one which is near the manifold...Please help..I'm gonna go buy an 06' Altima if this car makes me spend another $500 on it..
03-29-2009, 01:56 PM
#2
That's not the trans going into 'safe mode', it's spitting out an error. Most likely the same code you're getting via OBD-II.
There's only one starter solenoid, and it's not green. It's mounted to the starter, but you should replace the starter as one whole unit (after bench testing and confirming it's dead, not just guessing).
If the EGR solenoid is sticking open and allowing the EGR to recirc when you come to a stop, it could cause stalling.
There's only one starter solenoid, and it's not green. It's mounted to the starter, but you should replace the starter as one whole unit (after bench testing and confirming it's dead, not just guessing).
If the EGR solenoid is sticking open and allowing the EGR to recirc when you come to a stop, it could cause stalling.
03-29-2009, 02:33 PM
#3
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That's not the trans going into 'safe mode', it's spitting out an error. Most likely the same code you're getting via OBD-II.
There's only one starter solenoid, and it's not green. It's mounted to the starter, but you should replace the starter as one whole unit (after bench testing and confirming it's dead, not just guessing).
If the EGR solenoid is sticking open and allowing the EGR to recirc when you come to a stop, it could cause stalling.
There's only one starter solenoid, and it's not green. It's mounted to the starter, but you should replace the starter as one whole unit (after bench testing and confirming it's dead, not just guessing).
If the EGR solenoid is sticking open and allowing the EGR to recirc when you come to a stop, it could cause stalling.
is this black one it?
Last edited by shyheim07; 03-29-2009 at 02:41 PM.
03-31-2009, 09:46 AM
#7
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Ok. Today I will take out my starter to have it check. In the midst of that, I'll clean te throttle body to see what that does. I'm hopeing here in Boston that the Nissan dealers can help with getting a EGR solenoid. But I'm still stumpped on the P0600...
Not really sure what to do here...can an aftermarket alarm with remote start cause this in any way? I'm 99.999% sure my battery is fine...
When I was driving, the car would switch gears fine (so it seemed) but the RPMs where just all low as hell...I noticed when I was on the highway tho, I reached about 60mph and it sharted jerking but I dunno. Searching here, it seems like most folks get a VSS code with the P0600, but I don't have that code...so is this to beleive either the ECU or the TCM is bad? Should I just have the CEL reset and see if it still causes these problems? Reset the ECU?
I'm going to run over my FSM tonight to see if I can troubel shoot...ANy input would help. Thanks.
Not really sure what to do here...can an aftermarket alarm with remote start cause this in any way? I'm 99.999% sure my battery is fine...
When I was driving, the car would switch gears fine (so it seemed) but the RPMs where just all low as hell...I noticed when I was on the highway tho, I reached about 60mph and it sharted jerking but I dunno. Searching here, it seems like most folks get a VSS code with the P0600, but I don't have that code...so is this to beleive either the ECU or the TCM is bad? Should I just have the CEL reset and see if it still causes these problems? Reset the ECU?
I'm going to run over my FSM tonight to see if I can troubel shoot...ANy input would help. Thanks.
04-01-2009, 05:15 PM
#8
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So, I pulled out the starter and it was dead. So I bought one from Autozone for 135bucks ...car starts like never before. Tomorrow I'm gonna get the solenoid (I hope) and put that on. After that, lets pray...
04-01-2009, 05:34 PM
#9
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wait I looked in the FSM...EC - 211 & EC - 213
According to those pages the EGR solenoid is the green one which is located more toward the manifold and the throttle body....true? I'm going to the dealer tomorrow...I know the one I called said 95 bucks, im going to check another one.
According to those pages the EGR solenoid is the green one which is located more toward the manifold and the throttle body....true? I'm going to the dealer tomorrow...I know the one I called said 95 bucks, im going to check another one.
04-02-2009, 07:20 PM
#11
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I replaced that solenoid, which was not fun at all....
Car was doing fine for abou 30 minutes....i turned the system up, car did fine for another 30 minutes, then this S*** starts again
do I need to reset the ECU?
Car was doing fine for abou 30 minutes....i turned the system up, car did fine for another 30 minutes, then this S*** starts again
do I need to reset the ECU?
04-03-2009, 08:48 AM
#12
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Guys I really need help lol.
Fixed the o2 sensor and egr solenoid. Also cleaned TB & IACV
I cleared the ECU, no CEL light. The car still has the stalling out issues. I took it to AutoZone...PASS...went to Advance...PASS....so feeling lucky, I went to get my inspection sticker....PASS....
What should I look for now, the solenoid was no good. No air coming through from the test and all the hoses were fine, I put the new one on.
Now I'm stuck again with no codes...wht should I do to diagnose this now?
Last edited by shyheim07; 04-03-2009 at 09:02 AM.
04-03-2009, 09:09 AM
#13
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I'm going to go get a multimeter today and test the TPS because the car idles way to low and rpms is way to low while driving...When I turn on my system, Idle drops more but does not come back up when I turn down the bass, usually it does this. The more load I put on the car, the closer it gets to stalling....So on top of that, I'm going to jeck all wires and connections for power (i seriously doubt this is the issue)
That screw on the throttle body doesn't seem to do anything....
That screw on the throttle body doesn't seem to do anything....
Last edited by shyheim07; 04-03-2009 at 09:23 AM.
04-03-2009, 09:25 AM
#14
To adjust the idle you need to use the IACV screw.
What do you mean the RPMs are too low when driving? No idle control is going to fix that, RPM/gear/speed relationship is all mechanical (well, 80% with the auto).
There's no way I know of for the RPMs to be too low while driving...
Last edited by pmohr; 04-03-2009 at 09:31 AM.
04-03-2009, 09:56 AM
#15
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Do not mess with the stop screw on the TB until you've exhausted all other options. It's factory set, and should never need to be adjusted.
To adjust the idle you need to use the IACV screw.
What do you mean the RPMs are too low when driving? No idle control is going to fix that, RPM/gear/speed relationship is all mechanical (well, 80% with the auto).
There's no way I know of for the RPMs to be too low while driving...
To adjust the idle you need to use the IACV screw.
What do you mean the RPMs are too low when driving? No idle control is going to fix that, RPM/gear/speed relationship is all mechanical (well, 80% with the auto).
There's no way I know of for the RPMs to be too low while driving...
Is there a quick diognostics that I can do for the Thottle Body itself?
Last edited by shyheim07; 04-03-2009 at 10:08 AM.
04-03-2009, 10:11 AM
#16
By kick back, do you mean it feels like it dropped out of gear then back in when you hit the gas?
What do you mean, diagnostics on the TB? There isn't much you can check, it if moves freely, it's alright.
Last edited by pmohr; 04-03-2009 at 10:18 AM.
04-03-2009, 10:24 AM
#17
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When I come to a stop and the car is dropping like crazy toward 0, once I start accelerating it it feels like the gears drop and come back up or the car just stutters. The last time I hit 60mph the car was actling like this badly.
While in park, car is at 1000. My idle while in drive stays mostly between 600 and 700, but hops to 1000 and then can stumple all the way back to 0.
2 things I noticed...when the car is cold, it does the high idle to warm up and the car has no problems. Once its warm it starts acting up.
04-03-2009, 10:30 AM
#18
RPM Drop to about 1400 on the localy and on highway while gasing it
When I come to a stop and the car is dropping like crazy toward 0, once I start accelerating it it feels like the gears drop and come back up or the car just stutters. The last time I hit 60mph the car was actling like this badly.
While in park, car is at 1000. My idle while in drive stays mostly between 600 and 700, but hops to 1000 and then can stumple all the way back to 0.
2 things I noticed...when the car is cold, it does the high idle to warm up and the car has no problems. Once its warm it starts acting up.
When I come to a stop and the car is dropping like crazy toward 0, once I start accelerating it it feels like the gears drop and come back up or the car just stutters. The last time I hit 60mph the car was actling like this badly.
While in park, car is at 1000. My idle while in drive stays mostly between 600 and 700, but hops to 1000 and then can stumple all the way back to 0.
2 things I noticed...when the car is cold, it does the high idle to warm up and the car has no problems. Once its warm it starts acting up.
Have you cleaned the IACV? That could cause some of your idling issues when coming to a stop.
Another random point, what does the trans fluid look like?
04-03-2009, 10:50 AM
#19
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I did clean the IACV and well has the TB
Tranny Fluid...just checked 5 minutes ago, Red, clear ---level goes past the line into the curve. I have had the car for two years and i have added or flushed any fluid. (turned on the car, RPM dropped down to 0 and came back up and set itself to 800 (in park)
Last edited by shyheim07; 04-03-2009 at 10:54 AM.
04-03-2009, 10:55 AM
#20
How do I diagnose the ECTS. I have a antifreeze leak like near my front tire...don't know if it casues that
I did clean the IACV and well has the TB
Tranny Fluid...just checked 5 minutes ago, looks fine (turned on the car, RPM dropped down to 0 and came back up and set itself to 800 (in park)
I did clean the IACV and well has the TB
Tranny Fluid...just checked 5 minutes ago, looks fine (turned on the car, RPM dropped down to 0 and came back up and set itself to 800 (in park)
There's a resistance spec you can test by listed in the FSM. It can cause stalling issues, or other random things if it's bad.
04-03-2009, 10:58 AM
#21
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Ok. I planned on getting a multimeter today so I'll look in the FSM when I get home. If this is not it, what's the next step? I hope it is the problem, i think.
04-03-2009, 05:54 PM
#22
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I have the problem described here with intermittent stalling on my 96 Maxima GLE Automatic, 143k miles.
Symptoms:
(1) Car intermittently drops to low RPMs (200 - 300) and stalls. Typically happens when I just start the car and am pulling out of a parking spot, or am coming to a stop at a traffic light. Normal rpms is 700-750.
(2) By intermittent I mean no problems at all for a week of commuting to work (18 miles one way, twice a day for a week). Then it happens half a dozen times. Then nothing for a few days ...
(3) I believe a feel power loss at lower RPMs some times (in the 1000 - 2500 rpm range).
(4) I live in Houston TX. Happens on cool mornings ~40 degF and hot ~80 degF days.
(5) Happens when I just start the car for the first time in a day, not yet warmed up. Also happens after car has been running and is warmed up.
(6) Can reproduce stall with transmission in Drive, Reverse, and Park (To stall in Park, I had to let it idle for hours before it died).
I have done the following with no success:
(1) Scanned for codes with my ScanGauge II - No trouble codes ever. No check engine light ever.
(2) Disassembled, cleaned, and ohm-tested the three phases of my IACV per Factory Service Manual procedure. Whistle clean. Made no difference.
(3) Replaced fuel filter. Made no difference.
(4) Replaced PCV. Made no difference.
(5) Replaced starter (after it finally went out from all the restarting). Made no difference.
(6) Disassembled and cleaned the throttle body (used the instructions in the FAQ sticky). Made no difference.
(7) Run 91 octane gas. No difference.
(8) Ran a tank with fuel injector cleaner. No difference.
(9) Replaced the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). No difference.
(10) Found and fixed a minor power steering leak dripping onto my upstream oxygen sensor (leak traveled from return hose down the wires). Made no difference. Confirmed with my ScanGauge II stalling still occurs both open and closed loop (ie - happens when this sensor is not used by computer). Made no difference.
(11) Found and closed a cracked nipple on the breather hose from the air plenum to my engine. (Found that one trying to evacuate for Hurr Ike the morning it was rolling in). Made no difference.
(12) Gave up and took car to Jimmy's in Baytown, a very good mechanic specializing in Nissans, Toyotas, Hondas. He reproduced but could not find cause.
(13) Gave up and took car to the Baytown Nissan Dealer. They could reproduce, then asked for $800 to do a wire trace, thinking it might be electrical (ie - they are guessing too). I politely declined and took the car back without the trace.
(14) Replaced Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (the one to the computer, not the dash). Thought I was good - made it 141 miles and 6 days with no stalling. Then four stalls in a row at a stoplight. That was yesterday.
I've already bought a car to replace the Maxima as my primary vehicle, but have been trying to get the Maxima reliable to sell it. But I'm getting frustrated - about to list it on eBay, disclose the problem, and start the bidding at $1.
Greg
Symptoms:
(1) Car intermittently drops to low RPMs (200 - 300) and stalls. Typically happens when I just start the car and am pulling out of a parking spot, or am coming to a stop at a traffic light. Normal rpms is 700-750.
(2) By intermittent I mean no problems at all for a week of commuting to work (18 miles one way, twice a day for a week). Then it happens half a dozen times. Then nothing for a few days ...
(3) I believe a feel power loss at lower RPMs some times (in the 1000 - 2500 rpm range).
(4) I live in Houston TX. Happens on cool mornings ~40 degF and hot ~80 degF days.
(5) Happens when I just start the car for the first time in a day, not yet warmed up. Also happens after car has been running and is warmed up.
(6) Can reproduce stall with transmission in Drive, Reverse, and Park (To stall in Park, I had to let it idle for hours before it died).
I have done the following with no success:
(1) Scanned for codes with my ScanGauge II - No trouble codes ever. No check engine light ever.
(2) Disassembled, cleaned, and ohm-tested the three phases of my IACV per Factory Service Manual procedure. Whistle clean. Made no difference.
(3) Replaced fuel filter. Made no difference.
(4) Replaced PCV. Made no difference.
(5) Replaced starter (after it finally went out from all the restarting). Made no difference.
(6) Disassembled and cleaned the throttle body (used the instructions in the FAQ sticky). Made no difference.
(7) Run 91 octane gas. No difference.
(8) Ran a tank with fuel injector cleaner. No difference.
(9) Replaced the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). No difference.
(10) Found and fixed a minor power steering leak dripping onto my upstream oxygen sensor (leak traveled from return hose down the wires). Made no difference. Confirmed with my ScanGauge II stalling still occurs both open and closed loop (ie - happens when this sensor is not used by computer). Made no difference.
(11) Found and closed a cracked nipple on the breather hose from the air plenum to my engine. (Found that one trying to evacuate for Hurr Ike the morning it was rolling in). Made no difference.
(12) Gave up and took car to Jimmy's in Baytown, a very good mechanic specializing in Nissans, Toyotas, Hondas. He reproduced but could not find cause.
(13) Gave up and took car to the Baytown Nissan Dealer. They could reproduce, then asked for $800 to do a wire trace, thinking it might be electrical (ie - they are guessing too). I politely declined and took the car back without the trace.
(14) Replaced Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (the one to the computer, not the dash). Thought I was good - made it 141 miles and 6 days with no stalling. Then four stalls in a row at a stoplight. That was yesterday.
I've already bought a car to replace the Maxima as my primary vehicle, but have been trying to get the Maxima reliable to sell it. But I'm getting frustrated - about to list it on eBay, disclose the problem, and start the bidding at $1.
Greg
04-03-2009, 06:08 PM
#23
Another thing I'd try is shaking the engine control harness where it passes by the right strut tower while it's idling, see if that immediately reproduces any of your symptoms.
04-03-2009, 11:11 PM
#24
It might be a wild shot but when a stopped up cat gets hot it will stall, shutter, and all other sorts of stuff because of a buildup of pressure. Could the whatever you hit in the road have tagged it as well?
04-04-2009, 08:59 AM
#25
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now that I think of it...do u thnk the flex may have gotten bent the wrong way and is causing problems...?I was reading though the hynes last night and it said it shoul not be bent in any other way
04-04-2009, 10:47 AM
#26
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shyheim07,
I have the same stalling problem that does not trip the check engine light. I changed the ECTS last weekend, but that made no difference. I think you can test that by just unplugging the ECTS and driving without it - you get a check engine light (P0115, P0125 if memory is correct), the radiator fans stay on, and you run a little cooler than optimum, but it works. But I replaced it anyway - only $20 and a partial drain/refill on coolant.
I have the same stalling problem that does not trip the check engine light. I changed the ECTS last weekend, but that made no difference. I think you can test that by just unplugging the ECTS and driving without it - you get a check engine light (P0115, P0125 if memory is correct), the radiator fans stay on, and you run a little cooler than optimum, but it works. But I replaced it anyway - only $20 and a partial drain/refill on coolant.
04-04-2009, 12:21 PM
#28
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so I did the af test. red wire ready battery voltage aprox..
white wire...never went past 1 volt...even when the egine was running and while reving the engine...faulty maf? I had the multimeter on 2, 20 and 200 limits..all ready the same. never went to 1 volt.
white wire...never went past 1 volt...even when the egine was running and while reving the engine...faulty maf? I had the multimeter on 2, 20 and 200 limits..all ready the same. never went to 1 volt.
04-04-2009, 01:54 PM
#30
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I had the same problem
It took me about a month to find the problem. I didn't have the check engine light on at all. My TPS sensor was bad, so I had it replaced then adjusted with the gauges. The car was running okay for a few days, but then the problem came back. I also changed the temperature sensor, but that didn't solve the problem either. I was measuring by back probing the MAF sensor and I didn't get the right numbers at certain RPMs or idle, so I decided to replace it. Like other people have been saying, the check engine light didn't turn on at all. After replacing the MAF sensor, the car was running normally. I bought the sensor at a junkyard for $70. After two days, the check engine light came on with crank sensor REF code. So I replaced it and I cleaned the crank sensor POS- it was covered completely by metal shavings. I would advise to check all of the connections to sensors and to clean them up with a contact cleaner.
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
04-04-2009, 02:29 PM
#31
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I shook on it. and it did seem to start te symtoms..just not immediately. I am betting on the maf sensor right now..but ima try to shake it aroubd agin later
04-05-2009, 12:49 AM
#32
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bored so I searched
http://forums.automotive.com/70/8952...ing/index.html
is that unplugging method safe?
http://forums.automotive.com/70/8952...ing/index.html
is that unplugging method safe?
04-05-2009, 10:04 AM
#33
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ok.I tired out the unplug method in that forum. the car can fine (idle) with the sensor unplugged. once I plugged it back it..it shut off on me...im going to clean it sometme this week and see if that helps.
04-05-2009, 05:53 PM
#34
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same problem
did it help?
I am having the same issues.
cleaned throttle body, IACV, and changed started 2 times.
My car runs ok when in the mornings. But once it warms up, the rpms start dying down at red lights or if i am not accelerating.
I am having the same issues.
cleaned throttle body, IACV, and changed started 2 times.
My car runs ok when in the mornings. But once it warms up, the rpms start dying down at red lights or if i am not accelerating.
04-06-2009, 11:24 AM
#36
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Now the car...hhow do I put it....it isn't more severe than before, but it seems like its a different problem....and i got the cel light flashing the other day...
04-07-2009, 04:36 PM
#37
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I fixed the other problem in my other thread, now back to this.
So when I was driving it finally gave me a flashing CEL for severe misfire as pmohr says..
So, once I get this flat fixed (wherever the hell it came from) I going to take it to the Zone. Hoepfully it's something thats an easy fix...
So when I was driving it finally gave me a flashing CEL for severe misfire as pmohr says..
So, once I get this flat fixed (wherever the hell it came from) I going to take it to the Zone. Hoepfully it's something thats an easy fix...
04-08-2009, 06:35 AM
#39
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 392
CEL is Check Engine Light
Ok Update...
Tested the MAF again..still not getting the right voltage..so...went to advance...got o2 sensor and p0100...which is the maf....I ordered one from them and ill install it at noon.im pretty sure the code didn't come from me diagnosing bcause I cleared the code and it just comes back...the method on that website I posted did show true results...so lets pray...the flashing od I think came fom the problem I had earlier with the car not turning off..ill let u kno how it goes
Ok Update...
Tested the MAF again..still not getting the right voltage..so...went to advance...got o2 sensor and p0100...which is the maf....I ordered one from them and ill install it at noon.im pretty sure the code didn't come from me diagnosing bcause I cleared the code and it just comes back...the method on that website I posted did show true results...so lets pray...the flashing od I think came fom the problem I had earlier with the car not turning off..ill let u kno how it goes