vqmaxman

I just changed my bad driver side axle and I changed It with the new good

axle and the car Is running great. I also changed the axle seals because the

fluid was leaking out. I test drove the car and the fluid does not spit all over

the place or on my axle like it use to but, however the fluid was just leaking

spotted on my driveway when the car was parked. I am wondering why my

fluid Is still leaking because I just changed my seal. I want to where did I go wrong?

I know when I was pulling out the old seal I noticed that It was soft in and

out but the new one had a metal thin circle piece that sits inside the seal. I

did not see it on the old one can that be my problem there?

Kico

I actually just replaced both my axles yesterday and my axle seals. Did you make sure the axle seals had the small spring that wraps around the inside to hold the tension against the axle to hold the seal? If there was not one or if it was broke, the axle seal will leak. Did you lube the seal before you set the axle in it? And if you did not put the axle in straight or if you bumped the seal on the way in to the trans you could have harmed the axle seal.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Also, OP: 5MT or 4AT? If a 5 speed, have you checked for any play in the diff?

vqmaxman

I am a 4sp auto and I just stuck the seal in the housing with out greasing it

because the seal had some grease from the start. The new seal has the small

spring that sits inside the seal so the axle can be snuck close to the seal. The other seal that I just took out

had the spring I took that out and theres this circuliar thin metal piece with teeth marks on the seal was on

missing on my old seal but my new seal had it.

WaydeMax

i need to change my axles too. shop is trying to charge me like $600, which seems insane. is there a writeup I can use to do this.

Kico

I have a 5 speed and i don't know what you are talking about metal piece on the seal? Mine didn't have that. I know that there is metal on the inside but it is covered with rubber. Or unless your talking about on the axle there is a metal piece on it that when you slide it in it covers the actual seal to keep dust out. But i am referring to mine. Not sure if there the same??

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Indeed, through search.

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=158

Kico

It only cost me $140 to do both my axles my self. They have a lifetime warranty from auto zone! I would definitely try to do it yourself and save $!

WaydeMax

yea, i did search but wasn't getting a definite answer. thought this was it tho, thanx

vqmaxman

I believe It's the metal part that is covered with the seal and the other seal

I took out of my tranny only showed me the teeth marks on the seal as If

there was something there. If any of you guys have the pic for the Auto

tranny and the seal in the housing so I can let you guys know what I am

talking about.

kungpaogogo

I replaced both my drive axles last week. I ran into the same problem but I have a manual transmission. The first time I went to put the drive axle in on the drivers side I nicked the seal. When I pulled it out to inspect it it was a very small indentation in the rubber. I am quite sure this was a factor. Also, you have to make sure when you set the seal in the transmission that the flat part of the seal is flush with the port face. The lip on the seal will be protrude out. If you are not careful you end up pushing the seal all the way back in because there is no stop or recess and this will also cause an improper fit and a leak.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Also make sure that when installing the seal you did not distort the seal case or scratch the bore in the transmission housing. A slight scratch in the housing or a deformed seal case will leak like mad.

Another common issue is when the dealer messes up and gives you 2 drivers side oil seals. The sides are different.

Last thing to consider is if you installed the seals backwards. That can cause it to pump oil out rather than keep it in.

talisman311

+1, I used an axle nut to hammer it in but wasn't paying attention until it was too late.

I noticed that mfg. will make a difference too. When I had my tranny worked on they installed a seal without rubber on the outside. The nissan one did and I believe that helped. I didn't install the spring though and haven't had any leaks so far (3k miles).

nymax99se

i got my fronts done for 320 with labor.........pep boys.

vqmaxman

I have some good news, I don't have a major leak as If you are driving and

all the fluid gushes out on the axle or on the tranny platform. The leak Is

minor and the fuid Is dripping around the seals. I want know what will happen

If the housing bores are nickt a bit. I am sure I have some nikt in the housing

but it shouldn't be more than the tip of the pencil tip, If this is a enough to

make it leak, what can I do to get it fixed. I am sure the seal old has the

metal piece on in the outer part of the seal covered wit the rubber stuck in

the housing and the seal is not sitting all the way in and

that can be causing my problems. I am still open to any Ideas Thanks.

komik

Can you tell if it is leaking from the outer edge of the seal where it meets the tranny or from the inner edge of the seal where it meets the axle? I recently changed my passenger axle out and installed the new seal a fraction of an inch too far and created a huge leak. I pulled the seal and installed a new one flush with the tranny and have had no more problems.

vqmaxman

I think the leak is coming from the inner seal, where the axle meets the seal

and this happens when I am driving.

ATTappman

Are you saying that part or all of the old seal is still in the differential? Did you try to drive the new seal in on top of a piece of the old seal?

The garter spring, wrapped around the inner lip of the seal, should be facing the inside of the differential. The inner lip should not be facing out. If you have the seal cocked to one side, which is very easy to do, you have to pull it out and drive it back in, going slower this time.

A trick to keep the garter spring from falling off during installation is to coat it with grease.

seanwn

iTrader: (15)

pmohr; I'm thinking my axle seals may be bad, I have a 5 speed, what's the play you're talking about/how do I check?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Grab the axles, try to shake the diff up and down. If you see/feel any noticeable play, that's what's causing the leak.

seanwn

iTrader: (15)

What do you do to fix that type of play? It wouldn't just be an axle seal, would it?

As a side question; I've read debates, but what would you recommend in the trans for oil, redline or amsoil?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Gotta tear it down, replace the diff bearings.

And whatever oil, really

I use generic NAPA crap, shifts just fine when warmed up, so I don't really care. Sadly though, it's not that far off from the cost of the good synthetic oil. Once I fix my own axle seals, then I may go for the expensive oil.

trooplewis

iTrader: (1)

I'm curious if they gave you a quote on the rears?

nymax99se

correction it was about 250 i had other stuff done with the car.......

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Change the seals again and install them correctly. I would wipe the bores dry (drain the oil further if required) and put grey silicone sealant around the bore right before you install the seal. Then wait 12h before putting more oil in so that the sealant can dry.

It takes very little opening to lose a lot of oil.

Amsoil MTG and Redline MT-90 are the only two synthetics I use. I consider them to be equally excellent.

Dave

vqmaxman

I have been investigating where the leak is coming from and It's coming

from the inner part of the seal where the axle goes in right through. The fluid

is not running down or leaking down when the car Is still,but I know the fluid

Is only draining out when I am driving the car. I want to know Is the bore the

end shaping of the tranny housing and where the axle goes in,If so then I am

screwed. What kind of a grey silicone sealant I am looking for, a pic would

help thanks.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Grey silicone sealant will not solve a leak at the seal lip.

Is the axle clicked in place so it can't slide out? Do you have play in your diff?

Max95Max

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I can't post my own. I need to replace my cv shafts. What do you recommend for replacements, aside from OEM Nissan parts (I'm not paying dealer prices)? I want the complete shaft with the cv joint attached.

What about control arms? Id like to do the cv joints/shafts and new control arms with ball joints and bushings for both sides all at once. Should I just get them all from the local Advance Auto Parts?

thanks, sorry for the hijack

vqmaxman

I have the axle sitting in and It's pretty tight, I have no plays as far as the

diff go, but I have a gap between the ring on the axle shaft and the outer

seal lip about a thumb sized gap.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Can you take a picture? It sounds like it's not in all the way.

BTW, what browser are you using? It's just odd with the double spaced lines and what looks like 80 column width.

vqmaxman

I will take a pic as soon as I can, I will have to create an account with photobucket in a couple of minutes.

vqmaxman

I have the pics right here and I hope you guys can tell me what Is wrong here. http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o...man07/car2.jpg

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

What angle is that from?

No, that axle's not completely seated, nor even near it.

vqmaxman

I have tooken the pics from the top view (the engine bay)

I had the feeling If the axles are not seated and I was kind of figuring

something was not right with my installation, because the seals are only

leaking from the part where the axle is going through the seals. If the bores

were to be messed up I believe the seals should be leaking If the car Is drivin or

not.

vqmaxman

Since the axle Is not in there all the way, can I just whack It in with a

mallet (the part that's in the pic)

on the shaft or I will have to pull it back out and start fresh.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

So it'll drive fine as it is? If so, then the splines are lined up, and it shouldn't be a problem to tap it in place.

However I'd take it out of the hub, make sure the splines are lined up, and kind of use it like a slide hammer to seat it in the trans.

vqmaxman

If I can just tap it in the way It is, I think I can get It in straight, because

99% of the axle Is seated. If you think pulling out the axle and then

pushing It in is the way Then I will do that.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

Pull the axle from the gearbox. Put vaseline under/around the clip at the end of the axle stub. Cold vaseline is actually best. Center the clip on the axle with your fingers so that the same amount of clip is showing all around. Put on some heavy gloves. Put the axle in and gently slide it until it stops. Now bring it back about an inch and ram it forward by hand. If it's locked in place, you're done. If not, pull it out, recenter the clip, and repeat the process.

Dave

Max95Max

anyone?

vqmaxman

I would only change the LCA if the bushings are bad or if the arms are

rusting out, you can change the CV axle out with out changing any of the

other things I have posted. I am personally gonna recommend the Raxles or

the Autozone axles, If you want you can try the NAPA axles and try the

remanufactured ones not there new ones, because there garbage. If your ball joints are rusting or are leaking grease, change it.