ALT.S circuit prevents current draw test -- why?
ALT.S circuit prevents current draw test -- why?
I am working through some electrical problems, with this complication:
The usual preliminary method of testing for parasitic current draw is to disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a multimeter's probes to the terminal and to the cable, to measure the current flow. The multimeter should be set to test for mA (milliamps).
The ALT.S circuit won't let me do that. If I REMOVE the ALT.S fuse from the main fuse box near the battery, I can test current draw using the multimeter in line with the negative terminal and cable. The system shows about 70+ mA when awake, and only about 5 mA when the system goes into sleep mode.
But if I keep the ALT.S fuse in place, the multimeter starts beeping and, if I wait too long, blows a fuse.
I have a serious current draw problem, and I guess I should conclude that it's through the ALT.S circuit.
Has anyone else had this problem -- that you can't test the current draw through the usual method with the ALT.S fuse in place?
Thanks.
The usual preliminary method of testing for parasitic current draw is to disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a multimeter's probes to the terminal and to the cable, to measure the current flow. The multimeter should be set to test for mA (milliamps).
The ALT.S circuit won't let me do that. If I REMOVE the ALT.S fuse from the main fuse box near the battery, I can test current draw using the multimeter in line with the negative terminal and cable. The system shows about 70+ mA when awake, and only about 5 mA when the system goes into sleep mode.
But if I keep the ALT.S fuse in place, the multimeter starts beeping and, if I wait too long, blows a fuse.
I have a serious current draw problem, and I guess I should conclude that it's through the ALT.S circuit.
Has anyone else had this problem -- that you can't test the current draw through the usual method with the ALT.S fuse in place?
Thanks.
Have you tried setting the meter to the highest amperage it supports to see exactly how much draw there is on that circuit?
Really the only thing you can do is start tracking down the wiring for that circuit, see where it's bad. First thing I'd do is pull fuse #13, then unplug the cluster, then the alternator, testing each time.
Also, FWIW, it'd be best if you just made one big electrical thread, instead of starting (so far) 6 threads. Best to keep all of the information in one place, makes it less of a PITA.
For example I have to find all of the threads you made to even see what you've done so far, such as already having an issue with this fuse (http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...-location.html), that you have already replaced the altnernator (http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...or-normal.html), not to mention you say 'electrical problems' but don't state in this thread what exactly they are.
I have still yet to find anywhere you may have stated exactly what these 'electrical problems' are...
Really the only thing you can do is start tracking down the wiring for that circuit, see where it's bad. First thing I'd do is pull fuse #13, then unplug the cluster, then the alternator, testing each time.
Also, FWIW, it'd be best if you just made one big electrical thread, instead of starting (so far) 6 threads. Best to keep all of the information in one place, makes it less of a PITA.
For example I have to find all of the threads you made to even see what you've done so far, such as already having an issue with this fuse (http://forums.maxima.org/audio-elect...-location.html), that you have already replaced the altnernator (http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...or-normal.html), not to mention you say 'electrical problems' but don't state in this thread what exactly they are.
I have still yet to find anywhere you may have stated exactly what these 'electrical problems' are...
But if I keep the ALT.S fuse in place, the multimeter starts beeping and, if I wait too long, blows a fuse.
I have a serious current draw problem, and I guess I should conclude that it's through the ALT.S circuit.
Has anyone else had this problem -- that you can't test the current draw through the usual method with the ALT.S fuse in place?
Thanks.
what kinda meter are you using..? does it have a min/max/avg function? Is it a true RMS meter?
i think you need to consolidate ur posting into one thread also..
anywho.. lets start from the beginning..
how long does it take for the battery to go dead in the car?
if you do suspect the alternator circuit to be the problem.. try removing the fuse and seeing if the battery goes dead...
Last edited by f550maranello2; Apr 26, 2009 at 09:10 PM.
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