Ive been searching and doing some trial and errors and im tired of wasting my money on non foulers that dont fit, i have a 96 fed spec car, and i need to space the aftercat o2 sensor out, what can i use, All the non foulers at Autozone/Advanced auto are too big, and there is def. not enough thread to use washers or some BS, a quick answer would be very helpful im kinda against the clock

before u ask yes i have heard of the wrap in foil and tied it around the exhuast but that just sounds like problem waiting to happen when it rains

 

Are we to assume you're trying to get rid of a catalyst efficiency code? Or is it an O2 sensor code, or are you doing this for some random reason you've failed to tell us?

Why exactly are you 'against the clock'? Do you have emissions coming up?

 

emissions and court date

and it would be the catylist efficiency code

 

Have you tried to find a 'plug' bolt that would fit in place of the oxy sensor? I agree with the metal tape, would not hold. You might even be able to JB Weld the hole closed. Should hold, I would think.

Court, for your exahust? Please do fill us in. You could always ask the court for an extension, who knows - they may even give it to you.

 

lol i have had muiltiple extensions, i just want to keep my plates but if I cant find a solution before then i will just take them back and figure out how to solve this and get my plates back a bit later

im not trying to get rid of the O2 sensor, im trying to space it so it wont "sniff" all the bad stuffz, and JB weld wont be able to stand up to the temps the exhaust produces

 

Sniff bad stuffz?
Ive been running a straight pipe for years with the O2 Sensor plugged into it and have never thrown a code or had any emission issues.
What exactly is it detecting? Codes?

 

I think u guys are missing the point, the car will NOT pass emissions with a straight/test pipe with the O2 sensor in the normal position, either it has to be deleted by the use of a O2 simulator or find away to move the o2 sensor out of the direct flow of the exhaust gases, what i am trying to do is move the O2 sensor out of the exhaust stream, the normal method is by use of non fouler, but since nissan decide to be gay and use a different smaller sized O2 sensor compared to everybody else, the normal method of using a spark plug non-fouler wont work, all the non foulers are too big atleast the ones in the auto-parts stores. What im asking is people who have test pipes how did they space out the o2 sensor.

 

Hmm, not sure how strict the testing is in your hometown, but I pass emissions here in TX. They just basicly plug into the OBDII port and check to see that the systems are ready (EGR,Catalyst,O2 etc.) and for any codes.
Why dont you just find a used cat and swap it over for the test? They are super easy to change out, and its so much easier then creating these posts waiting for an answer trying to find a way to trick the O2 sensor.

 

there are a couple of things i can do before the test, on of the funnier things i have heard is take the o2 sensor out let it dangle then go do ur inspection, and when u get back put it back in, but i would rather not have to worry about swapping things

 

Your o2 is not detecting "bad stuff" that is making it throw a code. Simply a mixture that is too rich or too lean for an extended period of time. If you were to position your o2 out of the exhaust stream, it would most likely exacerbate the situation by sending a "lean" signal to the ECU 24/7. Your best bet is an o2 sim if you're really looking to get rid of the code without actually changing your exhaust setup.

 

Hmm, Ive never gotten a code for running too rich.
Ive never gotten a code period with test pipe in place.

 

One of the onboard logic circumstances where the P0136 code is tripped is when an excessively high voltage is sent from the o2 to the ECU. High voltage on the signal wire = rich. So it's possible.

 

i dont get any codes either with my test pipe....

anyways....i made my own thing from some non-foulers from work (advance auto), i ran into the issue that maybe youre talking about. the o2 sensor wont screw in all the way into the non fouler. the tip of it hits the end of the fouler. so i took one and did a little drilling in between customers and got this:


normal one on left vs drilled out one on right. its yours if you want it and come get it. the o2 threads right in.

 

^The non fouler wont fit on the test pipe itself is the problem, and the O2 sensors fits on the test pipe, so basically both the test pipe and the O2 sensor wont fit on the non fouler, and i cant find any/tired of wasting money on things that dont work. Im finding hard to believe nobody else has had to go through this, or maybe im missing something.

The 96 fed spec I30s are technically 95 maxs, i dunno if the have to deal with the same problem but after inspection i always get a little print out with that pie chart showing what the exhaust is blowing, it looks like a bit more than just simply lean/rich.

 

what i did with my test pipe i made...ill post up pics if you want...but i have access to welding tools and what not...but i took my old cat and cut out the center of the cat leaving the port for the O2 sensor still attatched to the outside of the pipe and welding in a 2.5 inch pipe from adv auto

works great...no issues

 

Go to a hardware store and buy a nut that is big enough for the non fouler. Then take it to an exhaust shop so they can cut off the old o2 bung and weld the nut on to the test pipe.

 

maybe im missing something....the o2 fits into this fouler i have (thats why i chose this one), and these foulers fit into eachother....which mean they are the same thread pattern.....right?

 

This is what i did..I have a solid test pipe with no bung..Im not getting any codes.My 2nd o2 is zip tied to the chassis, I thought the 2nd o2 did almost nothing for us anyways.. ?