my 95 max auto with 104,000 is hard to start when it is cold i live in idaho so it does get pretty cold sometimes, but after i start it once and run it for a minute it starts fine the rest of the day untill i let it sit for a while.then it is hard to start again.let me know what i can do to fix this problem.
thanks
mike

 

Fuel pressure escaping overnight? I don't know. Describe the symptoms better: does it crank strong and not start, does it blow out smoke once it starts, etc. Keep us posted and good luck.

 

it turns over very strong, doesn't blow out any smoke, just take a minute, usally have to stop and then try to start it again it doens't run the battery down or anything only notice it when it is cold outside.
thanks
mike

 

i have a weird problem, starts fine when its been sitting all night in the 40 degree cold, but when i come out of school, takes about 7 secs to start..

 

I was having this same problem for a month or two, until i went outside in the morning to go to work, and it wouldn't start at all. Battery was completely dead, and wouldn't charge at all. I got a new battery, and now it turns right over every time, without any hesitation.

 

I'm sorry I don't know much more to say. I would suspect maybe the fuel pump or lines, or maybe water in the gas gelling up a bit? Sorry I can't be of much more help. Good luck.

 

im having the same problem with my 98 max. it will wont start in the mornings when cold it starts but dies right after. i have to try 2 or 3 times before it will start. i have a brand new battery so i know thats not the problem. my car is also garage kept so its not in extreme temp plus i live in houston so it rarely gets cold. i took it to the dealer to let them check it out about a year ago and they found no problems. the problems went away but know there starting to come back. Any help would be appreciated.

 

since last week exactly the same problem. 98 gle, garaged, won't start until i step on gas for several seconds. did you find a solution?

 

adjust the idle to be around 1000 by using the idle switch..then your car should start fine hehe..

 

This is common in the 95's. Put the key in the aux. position and leave it there for about 10 to 15 seconds then crank it.
It should start right up.
A new fuel filter and pump might solve the problem but leaving the key in for a second or two definatley gets the gas back up to pressure and the car will start. 100K seems to be the magic number for the car to have this problem and it only seems to affect the 95's.

 

This type of problem started happening to me last year during summer. It started as a sporadic condition, and it eventually became more and more predominant during cold starts in the morning. Presently, it seems to happen every other morning. To solve the problem last year, I ran a bottle of Redline SI-1 fuel injector cleaner, and the problem eventually subsided. Since it came back, I'm trying the SI-1 again for 3 consecutive full tanks of gas. I personally think I have a clogged or leaking injector, but I'm not sure yet -- I'll perform a resistance test this on all injectors this weekend. Otherwise, since doing numerous searches on this topic in this site, I've noticed that most people that have this problem often check the following items: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, Fuel Injectors, Pressure Regulator, Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Park/Neutral Switch, Idle Air Control Valve, Crankshaft and Camshaft Position Sensors, and obviously, fuel leaks, fuel pressure, etc. There are several theories being thrown out about this problem, but the steps to the solution remain the same: start with the basic and cheapest first! I've changed the battery, fuel filter, ECTS, and no leaks. I'm tempted to leave the car at the dealer for a few days since I know that once they start it up in the morning, it will stall for sure. Thus, maybe they'll give me some suggestions. But for now, I'll try the SI-1 and see... I'll keep you posted on whathever I find out!

Sorry about the long message...

Later,
Peter

 

I just put a NEW fuel filter in, and its doing it. Hmm, I turn it to the AUX or ON? Just aux only? Cause I though the ON would bring it all up. Hmm.....will have to try that. What I do right now is give it a little gas when I turn the key, and it gets up and going. Thanks for the tip though, gonna try it in the morning!

 

Turn the key to the ON position.(and wait 10 to 15 secs) Aux won't do it. All the idiot lights have to light up. This seems to work on quite a few of the 95 Maxs. If this doesn't work -you've got a bad spark plug or a need some fuel injector cleaner like recommended, or some other anomaly.

 

Ok, Ill try some fuel injector cleaner then, cuase this somewhat didnt work. It started to start, then almost died, and I gave it gas quickly and it got going then. I find just giving it a little bit of gas right when you turn the key to start it works like a charm, but you HAVE to get it on the first try, or you or relagated to pumping it to get it going....lol.

 

the reason for your max not starting is the aic valve--i have replaced many of these valves for this problem & none of them have come back--the part normally runs about $170.00 plus the gasket. the charge to install depends on ur dealer or mechanic of course but it will fix ur problem--don't waste ur time w/ injector cleaners or anything like that--ur just putting a bandade on the problem--good luck

 

Thanks, I will look into this AIC valve more. Thanks for the info!

 

I just solved my cold start problem. How? Cleaned my Throttle Body. Do a search on this forum and you will find a website that explains in detail how to perform this 1/2 hour maintenance job. My Max has 85,000 KM on it and the problem first started back around 50,000. I cleaned the Throttle Body and Butterfly Valve and the cold start problem is gone. My dealer suggested this as a possible fix and wanted $140 to complete. I spent $5.99 for a can of Throttle Body cleaner, an old toothbrush and some paper towels. The car runs as smooth and strong as the day I bought it.

Do it, your problems should go away!

 

..all nine fives are havin F'ed up c0ld startin problems. No concrete solution has been found, but we're on it.

 

you know it's not just 95s even 97 nad 98........
okay for ma 97 se auto... theres no way to start it unless you step on a gas for few seconds.... i got new battery, sparkplugs, fuel filter, pcv valve, and i tried that fuelinjector cleaner and some other thing that removes water from your fuels.. but none of those helped. and now im not ready to take to the dealer and get robed...so someone please come up with an answer we all appreciate it.

Tae

 

95SE: only had problems starting cold last winter, when I had to crank the damn thing several times to start but occasionally first crank. Spring/summer: new fuel filter, NGK plugs (took out Bosch after 4 months), new coolant, throttle body clean.

So far this winter, it has yet to fail to crank the first time but to be honest, it hasn't gotten terribly cold yet, low in the high 20's. I am still keeping my fingers crossed. I even have a brand new starter sitting in the wings that I will put in if I clearly have starting problems.

We definitely as a group should try to nail this down, reporting what works and what didn't. It bugs the hell out of me that my Mom's 1994 Corolla has always started flawlessly rain, snow, or shine... Even a couple times last year, it was so bad, I thought I wouldn't be able to start the car!!! This problem needs resolution!

 

On my 98 SE I had replaced the spark plugs, replaced the battery and air filter, used fuel ingector cleaner and nothing solved the cold start issue. I then cleaned the throttle body and WOW! NO MORE PROBLEM!

Do it, it will solve your cold start problem.

 

I've been having the same problem in my 97 GXE - Except in LA it never gets really cold. What I've discovered is that it happens every time I make a really short trip, say, to move my car out of the garage to let my girlfriend's car in. If I do something like that then the next time I try to start it, its the ol' pump the gas trick to get it going. Then, I notice that the exhaust smells like gasoline, like the engine is running really rich for a couple of minutes.

If I back my car out of the garage and drive around the block before parking and shutting it off, the next startup is just fine. Does this pattern sound familiar to anyone?

 

Gman, I hope you are right. At least, so far so good. But when I did the TB clean in sept, I only found that it had a VERY thin coat of soot. Nothing I would call dramatic. I really can't guess why that would make it hard to start up in the cold. In my case, my max always cranks up the first time when the weather is not cold...no stepping on the gas pedal at all. For now, I am blaming the cheapo Bosch plugs but who knows...

 

Mishmosh,

Your symptoms are identical to mine. My Max always started right away in the Spring, Summer and Fall. Only in the Winter, did this starting problem arise. My dealer was the one who suggested it could be a dirty throttle body. At the time, I figured they were trying to hose me for $140 but after asking around, others were giving me the same advise. I had never had it cleaned before, so I thought what the hell, $6 for the cleaner and a little elbow grease and we will see what happens. I have noticed the car starts with more authority and my low end is noticeable better.

Hopefully, this will solve your problem as well. Good luck!

 

can you be more specific on how to clean throdle body? and wut kinda cleaner i should get? thanks... and did it solve your problem?

Tae

 

http://www.motorvate.ca/

 

I'm having this problem now that the overnight low temps are in the 20's. My 97 max always started first time every time before. Now the engine cranks but it won't start on the first attempt. The second time it starts and is ok the rest of the day. I will clean the throttle body first and report back.

 

The past week has been fairly cold and I have yet to have problems starting! Definitely a marked change from last winter in similar temperatures. I'll tentatively chaulk this up as one for the TB clean!

 

Since cleaning my TB, I have not had a single starting issue! I love my Max again.

 

same here
and im putting my customleather in this weekend... so im gonna love my max even more ~!~!~

Tae

 

can you explain what an "AIC" valve is? thanks.

 

Long post, but I think it'll help!

I've been suffering with this intermittent 'Hard to Start' problem for a while now. I took the car to the dealer last year, but the car always started fine in their hands, thus they could find nothing wrong with it. This winter it's been a different story. The problem has gone from intermittent to constant. Every single morning, the same thing. So I left the car at the dealer for 2 days, because I was certain that it would not start the next morning, and thus, they would advise me on how to fix this problem. To make a long story short, they tried to start it the next morning, and it did not. Their explanation is that they suspect a bad starter motor. Reason being (tell me what you guys think) that they checked voltages at resting, startup, and running conditions. They noticed that the battery had enough charge, but once I cranked the engine, the starter motor would draw some 16VDC (yes... 16). With this high draw, the engine would either not start, or if it did start, it would stall because the battery would not have enough power to maintain the engine running. On the first attempt, the ECTS would send a cold start condition, thus opening the injectors to enable a warm-up condition. Once the car stalled (low voltage), the engine would flood, and thus, I would have to press the gas pedal to get it going, and would also cause that big puff of gas smelling smoke in the back. I'm not sure about you guys, but my starter motor always makes a kind of 'grinding' noise whenever I start the car in the below zero temperatures. So the explanation seemed reasonable -- until they gave me the price on a new starter -- $450CAN! Got one myself for $156CAN, but it's back-ordered.
Now the interesting thing is that they recommended a TB Cleaning as well. My wife is the one that drives the Max (shame on me!) to/from work which is like 5min away from home. The tech recommended that I take the Max on the highway once a week with good gas (we always use 92 octane) and just give it hell. He said the car has been too pampered for its year and milleage. Say no more, it only cost me $34CAN to have the TB cleaned. I went out on my own on a Saturday morning and... well... I took her through the paces! Nonetheless, once they cleaned the TB, the car has started flawlessly. No stalls yet. It's jumpier specially on 1st and 2nd gears. We'll see how long it'll last.
I was skeptical myself when some guys in this site mentioned that a TB clean solved their starting problems. Until I had it done. I live in Toronto and it gets damn cold up here some times, and so far, the car hasn't failed me yet. A rather inexpensive first attempt at solving the problem. Now I'll have to convince the wife to start taking the bus -- but I suspect that won't go very well with her though!

Later,
Peter

 

Glad to hear your starting problems have been cured, even if temporary. Your description of the starter problem is a little perplexing. YOu talk about "draw" which implies current draw, yet you say "16VDC" which is a voltage. Those are two different things. If a power source (in this case, the battery) is unable to put out sufficient current, usually the voltage rails will sag, not increase! As for the grinding noise, many of our 4th gen starters have dried up lube inside the starter which makes a short burst of grinding noise just after the car cranks. YOu can service this yourself. In any case, I hope the TB clean was your answer and you might even consider cancelling the backordered starter if you can. If your car is a 95-early96, getting a newer 10tooth starter may be justifiable for peace of mind. And yeah, Toronto is plenty cold. I lived there for 15 years but Cleveland is no better. Just be glad you don't live in Buffalo!

 

I agree with the Gooseman! I had the exact same problem here in Chicago and I did not know wtf was going on until I did the search. I cleaned the throttle body (front and back) with a towel and toothbrush and never had the problem again. I too was very skeptical but until I tried it, I am now a believer! Just do it and your problems will be solved. I did some research on other sites and even asked a tech and the throttle body should be cleaned every 30K miles. Since I am a little **** when it comes to my cars, I will do it every 15K miles. It's only $3 for the cleaner and some elbow grease. It's $3 well spent!

 

You're very right Mishmosh... my mistake, I did mean to say excessive voltage draw. I also serviced the starter just as it's described on motorvate.ca. Nonetheless the grinding noise came right back the following week. It was worth a try. From now on, throttle body cleaning will be part of my maintenance program for sure! Thanks for pointing out that V vs. A mistake.

Later,
Peter

 

Yep, I finally cleaned out the throttle body yesterday, went out this morning in 25 degree cold hoping the cleaning would fix my starting problem. For the first time in a week my Max kicked over on the first try. I am also a believer. The toothbrush is especially useful for getting to the upper rear of the butterfly. The white 12" X 12" towel was 90% black when I was done. However, it didn't smooth out my idle enough like I had hoped.

 

I have a 98 and have this same problem. I let the key sit in the AUX before cranking and it starts fine!

I will be changing the fuel filter though!

 

When u guys removed the TB....did u pinch the coolant lines and how?? Did u replace the TB gasket??

WHen i cleaned mine...all i did was take a rag and hanger and clean the insides as best i could without removing

 

I have a 300zx fuel filter and a new battery and it takes longer to start than it should now that it's so cold. Weird.

 

I think he meant the IAC Valve or (IACV).
Idle Air Control Valve