I dont remember, i've gone through tons of threads to pin point it. I just remember someone wired the red wire to the POS+ terminal on the battery and the green wire to the VAFC. Your method works too, my problem was wiring the red to the POS+ terminal, instead of the VAFC, which had the ground. Its working now how you said.



-----
Ok, tried bending the EGR tube towards me a bit and it sits a bit better. Everythings sealed up, only problem is i have a high idle now, (which is wierd since it was 800 last night until i took everything apart again) and without a working IACV screw, im SOL. Im thinking its one of the hoses that connects to the new brass fittings on my UIM. They dont have hose clamps so it might be the hose bending around as im trying to set the IACV so it clears the hood.
(btw, JB weld sucks...do

its running about 1500rpm until i find someone who has a 99 IACV.. Its also such a hassle to deal with the IACV adapter, its just too bulky, and the hoses required for it are too.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/6626183-post10.html
was it that one?

 

ha, yep.

 

dammit. Now I'm confused. I have my pink wire connected to the red vias wire. Looking at random threads it's saying that the VIAS needs ground not power to activate. But I know my VIAS is closed til it reaches 4900rpm. I've had people turn on and start the car and the rod doesn't move til 5000rpm...

 

VAFC2 Pink wire is 12v OUTput.


Red > Pink
Green > Any Ground.

Red - 12v+
Red - 12v+
Black - Ground-
Brown - Ground- Closer to ECU
Pink - VIAS Output 12V+
Green - RPM (ECU)
Gray - Throttle (ECU)
Yellow - MAF Output TO ECU
White - MAF Input from Harness

Im guessing thats why the VAFC2 requires two 12v inputs.

 

They are both connected to the same wire just spaced a CM apart. Guessing to see if there is any signal difference or something. Same with the ground...

 

Hey btw Dave, thanks for sticking it out with me to get this fixed. I really appreciate it.




Update:
I went to go put gas after it was idling around 1600 and when i get to the gas station...the rpm's just dropped to 670rpms. What would cause this? Was it because i reset the ecu?

My TPS is set at 499-504ohms.

It was running real good with the idle at 1600, the acceleration from 2k-4k felt better than the USIM. Then once the rpm's suddenly "settled", it lost some power. it feels sluggish.



CODES: My 0401 - Air Intake temp sensor code - GONE
I now have 0402 - which is Fuel Tank Temperature Sensor? good grief.

 

no problem, it was a very boring week and I had absolutely nothing to do but homework.
Had the same fuel tank temp code. Disconnected the connectors on top of the tank, plugged back in and went away after reset.
You're saying you want ur idle at 1600?

 

No, im just wondering why the hell it was idling at 1600 for 5 minutes in my garage after 3 engine starts, and went down to 670rpm as soon as i pulled into the gas station. (4 minute drive)


And the face that it felt sluggish once the idle settled tells me something is not right.


I've tried JB welding and JB Kwik'ing the IACV screw to a metal screw and the son of a ***** doesnt want to stick. Crap just crumbles or the screw unscrews itself. Got any suggestions? Im going to try some plastic epoxy and see how it goes.

 

Test drove it. Everything seems good.

Engine vibrates a tiny bit at WOT, but thats probably because im running rich, right? Only noticed it once.

I can definitely feel the activation surge after 5100...hits the red line real quick.

Idles @ 840~



Thanks everyone. Will update later once i get dyno's next sun. and tune.

 

The lowest I can get my idle is around 700. That's using the lil stopper screw by the TB cable. Anything below that and the car dies when coming to a stop. I'm not sure why the screw won't stay in. Odd...

 

So it idles and drives fine now, is that what you're saying? I haven't been on the forums much lately, so I didn't see your thread until now. I'm glad you got your VAFC2 to work. It didn't sound like you had it hooked up wrong, but I haven't done wiring for one in 2+ years so I was a bit rusty.

 

yea its good. I was idling high for about 10 minutes at around 1600rpm and once i got to the gas station and put it in reverse, it went down to 700 ish. weird.


I think im the only guy to install a 00vi without any exhaust mods. Still stock baby!

MOds by order
-Clear tails
-headlight/Bumper/fog light rewiring
-Illumina kit
-00vi

 

Does it still feel sluggish to you? If it does, I'd say it's because the car is still untuned running on the 5th gen. fuel setup.

 

Add me to that list too. Cept the rusty hole in my muffler.

And your mod list is pretty much the same as mine

 

It feels normal now. Under WOT i can tell its not performing right because of the untune, but under light driving conditions, it seems normal. Im just happy it works for me to drive to school. Main thing i was worried about was electrical issues such as coil packs/injectors.

My throttle pedal did get stiffer though...might need to decrease the bend in throttle cable to free it up.



Also, i dont know if its just me bad memory but i can drive like 77mph and be right under 2500rpms....If i remember correctly, when i was at around 2450rpm, i was cruising at 65-70ish.

pretty kewl if it indeed change.

Braking seems effortless too. Like if the brake booster line gets more vacuum or something.

 

Impossible! You didn't change the gearing. Since you're auto, I'm guessing your overdrive wasn't kicking in before or you just didn't notice...

 

Lets test it. Next time you guys drive on the highway, aim for 60-75 right @ 2500rpm and tell me your speed. Maybe im just over analyzing everything, i am pretty paranoid right now about the car. haha

 

In my car im at 2500rpm when doing 62. I have the GFs car in the garage and I could go out test it but I know that at 2500rpm it's at around 75mph...

 

Add me to that list to, but i didnt have any suspension upgrades.....

But IB I am the only one that has stock exhaust that has a 3.5swap

 

My old auto was at about 2300 @ 70 MPH. That was in 4th with the torque converter locked.

 

torque converter? The over drive button>?

I checked mine again and its was a 73 @ 2470rpm's (VAFC )

 

No, the torque converter. The donut-shaped thing between the engine and transmission?

 

how did you lock it? Is this a mod or a malfunction? lulz