KS Resistor Install With Pics
KS Resistor Install With Pics
I decided I didn't like just having a resistor shoved into the plug, so I got busy with my soldering gun and wire cutters.
Stock sub-harness.

Notice the KS Sensor attached at the right. You will want to use the end at the left. Strip off the electrical tape and wire loom. Then strip the tape from all the connections. Clip the black wire where it is crimped to the shielding. Pull the shielding from the clear wire. Strip the black wire about 1/4". I used a 16Ga butt connector cut in half, and solder to connect to the 470k resistor. Now clip the other end of the resistor and the clear wire even. Strip about 1/4" from clear wire and solder using the other half of the 16Ga butt connector.
It should look like this now.

Now use shrink tubing to protect. I folded the end over and added another short piece of tubing.

Now put the sub-harness connector back on its bracket and plug the engine harness plug back in.
Aaron
Stock sub-harness.

Notice the KS Sensor attached at the right. You will want to use the end at the left. Strip off the electrical tape and wire loom. Then strip the tape from all the connections. Clip the black wire where it is crimped to the shielding. Pull the shielding from the clear wire. Strip the black wire about 1/4". I used a 16Ga butt connector cut in half, and solder to connect to the 470k resistor. Now clip the other end of the resistor and the clear wire even. Strip about 1/4" from clear wire and solder using the other half of the 16Ga butt connector.
It should look like this now.

Now use shrink tubing to protect. I folded the end over and added another short piece of tubing.

Now put the sub-harness connector back on its bracket and plug the engine harness plug back in.
Aaron
Last edited by asand1; Apr 2, 2015 at 08:17 PM.
You definitely lose power once the knock sensor goes bad and it's quite annoying, it's also not as fun as doing the resistor. I just said screw it and changed the knock sensor on my Max but if I see that it doesn't last long, I'll jimmy rig a resistor on there as well.
This mod seems like the A/T drop resistor mod to me. It's cool and it works, but I may damage your vehicle. The whole point of the sensor is to retard the timing if there is knock, to prevent the knock (detonation). I know knock sensors go bad and they are hard to get to, but this is at best a temporary solution IMO.
I'm sure someone will say "But I've had my resistor/knock senor delete for two years and have no problems", thats fine, but you'll never get me to believe a long term solution is to limit the information that your ECU gets. Get yourself a screw driver and a wrench and change the sensor!
It is clean though, have to applaud you for that. Shrink wrap is awesome.
I'm sure someone will say "But I've had my resistor/knock senor delete for two years and have no problems", thats fine, but you'll never get me to believe a long term solution is to limit the information that your ECU gets. Get yourself a screw driver and a wrench and change the sensor!

It is clean though, have to applaud you for that. Shrink wrap is awesome.
Last edited by ajm8127; Sep 15, 2009 at 12:29 PM.
This mod seems like the A/T drop resistor mod to me. It's cool and it works, but I may damage your vehicle. The whole point of the sensor is to retard the timing if there is knock, to prevent the knock (detonation). I know knock sensors go bad and they are hard to get to, but this is at best a temporary solution IMO.
I'm sure someone will say "But I've had my resistor/knock senor delete for two years and have no problems", thats fine, but you'll never get me to believe a long term solution is to limit the information that your ECU gets. Get yourself a screw driver and a wrench and change the sensor!
It is clean though, have to applaud you for that. Shrink wrap is awesome.
I'm sure someone will say "But I've had my resistor/knock senor delete for two years and have no problems", thats fine, but you'll never get me to believe a long term solution is to limit the information that your ECU gets. Get yourself a screw driver and a wrench and change the sensor!

It is clean though, have to applaud you for that. Shrink wrap is awesome.
All I wanted to do was delete a failure prone sensor, a sensor many vehicles come off the factory floor without. This will not harm a vehicle as long as you run good gas, keep your cooling system in top shape, and don't run in a lean condition.
I posted this for people who have already decided they want to run this mod, I'm not here to convince any one.
As for all the fails, put em where the sun don't shine, I'm ASE certified, are you?
Yes, the resistor came from Radio Shack. part #271-1133 5 pack for .99*
Thank you ajm8127, I do try to keep everything clean, especially my electrical work.
Last edited by asand1; Sep 15, 2009 at 09:40 PM.
I agree, run premium fuel and do those other things and you'll be fine as stated above
If you look at the first picture, I removed the sensor when I did this. I'm not afraid of replacing the sensor, and I'm not lazy.
All I wanted to do was delete a failure prone sensor, a sensor many vehicles come off the factory floor without. This will not harm a vehicle as long as you run good gas, keep your cooling system in top shape, and don't run in a lean condition.
I posted this for people who have already decided they want to run this mod, I'm not here to convince any one.
As for all the fails, put em where the sun don't shine, I'm ASE certified, are you?
Yes, the resistor came from Radio Shack. part #271-1133 5 pack for .99*
Thank you ajm8127, I do try to keep everything clean, especially my electrical work.
All I wanted to do was delete a failure prone sensor, a sensor many vehicles come off the factory floor without. This will not harm a vehicle as long as you run good gas, keep your cooling system in top shape, and don't run in a lean condition.
I posted this for people who have already decided they want to run this mod, I'm not here to convince any one.
As for all the fails, put em where the sun don't shine, I'm ASE certified, are you?
Yes, the resistor came from Radio Shack. part #271-1133 5 pack for .99*
Thank you ajm8127, I do try to keep everything clean, especially my electrical work.
its a good mod i even did it for like a week but its not safe...specially in hot areas
Last edited by burhan92SE; Sep 15, 2009 at 11:57 PM.
If you look at the first picture, I removed the sensor when I did this. I'm not afraid of replacing the sensor, and I'm not lazy.
All I wanted to do was delete a failure prone sensor, a sensor many vehicles come off the factory floor without. This will not harm a vehicle as long as you run good gas, keep your cooling system in top shape, and don't run in a lean condition.
I posted this for people who have already decided they want to run this mod, I'm not here to convince any one.
As for all the fails, put em where the sun don't shine, I'm ASE certified, are you?
Yes, the resistor came from Radio Shack. part #271-1133 5 pack for .99*
Thank you ajm8127, I do try to keep everything clean, especially my electrical work.
All I wanted to do was delete a failure prone sensor, a sensor many vehicles come off the factory floor without. This will not harm a vehicle as long as you run good gas, keep your cooling system in top shape, and don't run in a lean condition.
I posted this for people who have already decided they want to run this mod, I'm not here to convince any one.
As for all the fails, put em where the sun don't shine, I'm ASE certified, are you?
Yes, the resistor came from Radio Shack. part #271-1133 5 pack for .99*
Thank you ajm8127, I do try to keep everything clean, especially my electrical work.
I know you are not trying to convert anyone, but what's a good discussion of only one point of view is voiced.
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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I'm sure someone will say "But I've had my resistor/knock senor delete for two years and have no problems", thats fine, but you'll never get me to believe a long term solution is to limit the information that your ECU gets. Get yourself a screw driver and a wrench and change the sensor! 

Knock & ping distroys an engine, that's why the sensor is there.
It murders rod bearings, wrist pins ect and robs more performance then a working KS. But I guess guys on here have more education then the engineers at Nissan.
Ever see a top fuel motor explode? Guess why that happens....
I have a resistor shoved into the connector but I have a '99 which makes it harder to replace the ks and my car is stock. With a boosted engine I wouldn't have the resistor in there. Damn, guess I need to add the ebay KS to my list.
Okay... all you people who said FAIL and bashed him for doing this mod sure are "mature" it is his car, he knows what he is doing, let him do what he want.
I mean as he said he is ASE certified that means that he can probably tell when there is a problem with his car without the need of a KS to tell him.
Like the old saying... if you don't have anything good to say, don't say anything at all.
I mean as he said he is ASE certified that means that he can probably tell when there is a problem with his car without the need of a KS to tell him.
Like the old saying... if you don't have anything good to say, don't say anything at all.
Last edited by Leo_Koneval; Sep 16, 2009 at 05:22 PM.
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,024

That doesn't apply to the laws of this great country, especially on a public forum. Nobody said anything bad, per say, it's our opinion on an open public forum.
I also find it very hard to believe that an ASE Certified mechanic would do something like that. If anything, they should know more about an internal combustion engine and modern technology. Somebody should get the name of his shop and put them on the do not use list.
I fail to see how $29 extra dollars and 30 minutes of one's time isn't worth the peace of mind/functionality a KS offers....
Note: Time frame only applies to non 99 CA Max owners....
Last edited by The Wizard; Sep 16, 2009 at 03:04 PM.
I disagree 10000%. By the time the OP realizes something is wrong, it's probably gonna be too late. The KS would have saved him though....
I fail to see how $29 extra dollars and 30 minutes of one's time isn't worth the peace of mind/functionality a KS offers....
Note: Time frame only applies to non 99 CA Max owners....
I fail to see how $29 extra dollars and 30 minutes of one's time isn't worth the peace of mind/functionality a KS offers....
Note: Time frame only applies to non 99 CA Max owners....
You have every right to voice your OPINION, but please don't presume that you know better than me or that your OPINION is gospel.
As I already stated, Im not trying to convince anybody and I posted this tutorial for those already commited, If you dont agree hit the back button and GTFO.
I think the mixed emotions towards this mod is that it was suggested and shared to the community as a performance test to target the Knock sensor as the culprit.
But yea, live and let live.
But yea, live and let live.
I know what detonation sounds like, I know the feel of an engine running ****ty because of it, and I know the ****ty conditions that cause it. I don't need a sensor to put my mind at peace like some people, and I'm not gonna replace a POS sensor every 10K miles.
You have every right to voice your OPINION, but please don't presume that you know better than me or that your OPINION is gospel.
As I already stated, Im not trying to convince anybody and I posted this tutorial for those already commited, If you dont agree hit the back button and GTFO.
You have every right to voice your OPINION, but please don't presume that you know better than me or that your OPINION is gospel.
As I already stated, Im not trying to convince anybody and I posted this tutorial for those already commited, If you dont agree hit the back button and GTFO.

at knock sensor's going out every 10K. Funny thing is, I don't see KS's on Nissan maintenance schedule. 
Just expressing my opinion/thoughts as well. Do what you wish, I couldn't care less. Just putting some additional info on the table for others to consider.
Why put yourself in the position where now you have to listen to your engine and feel how it feels? Doesn't make sense to me. All because of 29 measly dollars.
ASE certified means absolutely **** to me. Get off your high horse. A freakin monkey can get ASE certified. Don't get me started on how most ASE guys think they know it all.
On a side note an "ASE master tech" with over 10 years experience ****ed up an orgers cars on here. (ROCKART's spacer issue, for example) Not saying you're an idiot, but it goes to show "master techs" even make mistakes once in a while. Maybe you should reconsider.
Honestly I would most likely change it out, but the only thing you need to do without a KS is make sure to listen for a knock right? I am not sure if I remember this correctly but I think you can hear a knock clearly right? I remembered the first time I got my car and didn't know what kind of gas it needs and filled up on 87 octane and the next day when I started the car the rhythm was off, I mean I could clearly hear it at idle. Unless what I heard wasn't knocking, hahaha!
But on the side note I was in Wal-Mart looking for oil and found 20W-80! Didn't even know they went that high
But on the side note I was in Wal-Mart looking for oil and found 20W-80! Didn't even know they went that high
like asand1 said.
if you get preignition you will hear it unless your ears are plugged... i can run 87 in my 01 while watching the computer timing--- without a knock and reduced timing--80% of the time. under extreme condition i can hear a knock for 2-3 seconds which is ok.
if you get preignition you will hear it unless your ears are plugged... i can run 87 in my 01 while watching the computer timing--- without a knock and reduced timing--80% of the time. under extreme condition i can hear a knock for 2-3 seconds which is ok.
I am thinking of doing this mod now. but I do worry about the possible knock. Also. These sensors do go a lot. Maybe not every 10k, but I wouldsay at least every 20-30k most definally. I have gone though 2 of them. How you gonna tell me? Not to mention. I have only put on 60k miles on my car. SO again. How you gonna tell me? IT could be an O2 sensor problem who knows, but I know that these go because they get some type of shock or the heat makes the ceremic plating inside the knocksensor to mess up. Nissan made these with a very crappy design. Bar none
I am thinking of doing this mod now. but I do worry about the possible knock. Also. These sensors do go a lot. Maybe not every 10k, but I wouldsay at least every 20-30k most definally. I have gone though 2 of them. How you gonna tell me? Not to mention. I have only put on 60k miles on my car. SO again. How you gonna tell me? IT could be an O2 sensor problem who knows, but I know that these go because they get some type of shock or the heat makes the ceremic plating inside the knocksensor to mess up. Nissan made these with a very crappy design. Bar none
There, I told you.
haha. Cheers.
I don't see how you can generalize this and claim KS's only last 20-30k at the most. Clearly, you have a bad taste (rightfully so) for Nissan's KS, but don't go throwing this nonsense that all KS's are crap and they only last 20-30k. Your case (and probably a few others) is isolated. This is not the norm by far. I think you have a bigger issue at hand if you keep going through KS's.
There, I told you.
haha. Cheers. 
There, I told you.
haha. Cheers. 
Also search Knock sensor for the Gen 3&4. You will see over 265 topics about it on Gen 4 and half that on Gen 3. hmm. I am sure it is a bad design. Now after you do that. Go search the Gen 5 forums and see how Nissan did with that one. You will be shocked. It took 2 gens for Nissan to get the knock sensor right. Finnally.
Also, I have thought of it being an O2 sensor. Just saying. I know what I am talking about Wizard. You know this. lol
Well scanned my car for no good reason and found the KS code. Pulled the 2 year old KS, and it tested bad with Infinite resistance between pin 2 and ground. The resistor is back in indefinitely.
Last edited by asand1; Apr 19, 2015 at 05:59 PM.
My resistor is still going strong after 4+ years. Gonna install a new KS and sub harness when I install the MEVI because going boost shortly after.
Sucks it'll only last a few years before going bad :/
Sucks it'll only last a few years before going bad :/
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