I've read tons and tons of threads about the infamous knock sensor here and really have only one simple question. Does it really make that much of a diff. in power to change it out?

My 96's KS went out yrs. ago and frankly i've just blew it off thinking that it was too hard to get to and really could'nt make that much diff. in hp. But lately i've ran across a few threads saying that it made a BIG diff. in the power etc. I'm just curious as to how much of a diff. it makes. You know how some people just change oil and maybe throw on a k&n filter and are like "my car runs sooo much better now". Mosty bs

Anyways, does our computers go into a fail safe mode with the sensor out? I have never heard my car pinging or knocking at all even with 87 octane. I'll leave it at that

 

Yes its a huge difference. Its like you're driving a 92-96 Camry 2.2 liter I4 and then suddenly you replace the knock sensor and it feels like you get into a 1995-1999 Maxima and BAM its a huge difference

 

That would be the answer im looking for Are there any more supporters of this

 

I drove my buddies Maxima about a week ago and it was scarey slow. It drove like my parent's 97 Corolla. No ***** whatsoever. Plugged in my code reader and pulled P0325. So ya, makes a huge difference.

 

i commented before columbian max even but apparently it didnt post, Yes its worth it. IIRC the ECM retards your ignition timings to the safe tables to prevent knocking. Seriously, replace it and itll feel like you just added 30 HP, which is probably an accurate number even... just do it, itll ost you nothing in comparision to the amount of gas your probably wasteing. i bet you get like 18 to the gallon.. and jsut do the bloody fingers method, its not as bad as it sounds.

 

Replace it. My car had a bad KS when I bought it. I addressed the problem and it made a world of difference. I removed the KS with a long 1/4" extension and swivel. Took 5 minutes to remove including detaching the sub harness from its anchor points. I didnt replace it, although if I did, I would use the same method to reinstall.

 

It's like putting a turbo on your car.


























Seriously.

 

Think of the Knock Sensor as the Viagra of our cars.

It lasts quite a while but when it wears off you will definitely notice a lack of something.

 

Read this sticky. This should convince you.

http://forums.maxima.org/1732415-post27.html

It's easy on a 96, DO IT!!!

 

Thanks wizard! That thread was very helpful. Iam pretty convinced to change it out now, is anyone had problems with the cheap fleabay sensors?? There on there for roughly 30-50bucks.

 

I got mine off of eBay and have had it installed for almost 1 year. So far so good. It was like $35 shipped.

 

It's only been 3 weeks or so, but FWIW, I installed a $30 egay KS into a fellow orgers car (99 CA spec) and all is good.

 

SWEET.

 

dont mean to jack but while you guys are on the subject could the ks be bad even with no CEL?

 

Yes, a bad KS doesn't trigger a CEL. Manually check your codes and see if the KS code shows up.

EDIT: Read the sticky I posted above too.

 

Yeah, sure does, my cel came on shortly after i bought my car, and I pulled the codes I got ks and o2. Fixed the o2 and it stayed off, some time later it came back on and I got ks and egr low flow code. So in short, the ks will store a code but usually doesn't light the cel.

 

Thanks for that link Wizard. My ECU doesn't throw any codes but my car exhibits the behavior described in the "Partially working knock sensor" - I'd floor it and it's a 50/50 of whether or not I get some good pull. I think I'll be doing mine soon! 134k miles and most-likely original sensor.

 

i got an idea, how about noone posts in this thread including the OP until he replaces it, casue this thread is = FAIL. Hes got all the persuasion and information he needs now give him the time to get to it.

 

My KS is apparently bad in my 99se. Went to get it inspected and they told me the KS was a safety issue, which is BS if you ask me, plus obviously the CEL wasn't on. Anyway, whats the experiece with like the 40 dollars OEM ones from ebay? I noticed there are like 900 sellers for the item and I would rather avoid paying 190 dollars from the local nissan dealership for the part when I am about to sell the car anyway.

 

The CEL won't be on....

people have been having good luck w/ the ebay ones. Did you not read the posts above yours?

 

now if the wife would just stop spendin $$ I could.

 

I bought a $60 OEM KS off eBay I think and it's worked fine for at least 6 months now. DEFINETELY change it.

 

Seriously man get yourself 50 bucks log on to ebay and order the OEM Nissan knock sensor.

Its 50 shipped. I know because I bought it 2 months ago.

SO FAR So Good !

 

hahah, I don't if it is THAT much of a difference. Not night and day by the least but def a difference and it should be done regardless not just for perfromence issues but the health of the car.

 

My KS needed replacing, but I just turned the CE light off with a friends engine analyzer. I finally replaced the KS and maybe not a Wow Factor, But I definately noticed a difference.

 

My local dealer told me they never recommend replacing the KS, but I did it anyway because the car wasn't running well. It stalled really easily with the bad one, and since I replaced it I've noticed about a 2 MPG average improvement. Replace it.

 

i just replaced my KS...and it still cuts on...so im changing to 93 and staying only at Shell


for starters at least...

 

As another user previously noted, if your SES light is on (assuming that's what you mean by 'it still cuts on'), it's not your KS. Check for other codes.

 

i got the knock sensor (0304) code and the 02 sensor (0503)

 

O2 is turning on the light then. But if you replaced the KS it shouldn't be giving you a ghost code anymore.

 

do the ks mod that the guy showed look at his thread, it shows how to bypass it. good thread. just do it like he says, i did and the car runs like a raped ape.

 

I'll probaly get one from ebay soon, Im having trouble with the battery now so i'll take one problem at a time!

 

Good, now just to clarify theres no other codes or anything worth mentioning? Cause theres no kick in the nuts like a unneeded repair.

 

Ebay for 28 bucks... I bought my 99 max 3 weeks ago and drove it home 600 miles and did not know anything about the KS and just assumend this was the power it had.. I then found this forum...I did the ECUu self test just for hahas and the KS code came up.... Got the ebay one and installed it yesterday............ and at the samee time did iridium plugs and other basic maintenance like egr/ TB cleaning etc

The difference can only be described as outrageaous.

BTW.. i looked through the how to's on the KS...looked fairly straightforward until I realized my max has california emissions so the KS was the most major PITA of a job I can recall in a loooooong time.
There are many more tubed, brackets and thingy's in the way...just an FYI.
A huge help is a long (2 ft) grabber tool.

 

The only other code I get is egr insuff. or excessive flow, i forget the #. I just threw on another starter and started it one time. Let it sit a couple days and the dang battery went dead. I don't figure the egr is worth fixing, but the KS I figure i'll do. BTW, this ks is factory w/214k miles

 

Excessive Flow? never seen someone with that... Restricted Flow mabey? haha mines been that way for a year now idc... its just emissions BS.

 

Yeah, beats me. It said insuff or excessive flow. Don't really understand that myself. I just know that egr crap is annoying, but........one day we may melt under the suns ray's without it. soo it all works out

 

Well... looks like I'm a victim AGAIN. I knew my car has been feeling "laggy" lately but I figured it was a coil due some slight vibration..very slight and most people would not be able to tell but I can tell when my car shakes a lil more than it does. Went to advance and got the following codes:

P0325 - Knock Sensor Bank 1
P0135 - O2 Heated blabla Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0150 - O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0155 - O2 Heated blabla Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1400 - Manufacture Code, I'm guessing its Evap canister?

I'm glad its a 95 and no emmissions but I really need to get this **** fixed cuz I'm only getting 18 ****in miles per galon at the moment and its horrible!

 

P1400 is your EGR solenoid valve. This thread might help, and more specifically post #5.

Must be fun with 5 codes at once - I hate it when I get 3 at once!

 

Thanks dude, I was looking all over the FSM yesterday, even printed out pave EC-235 and was lookin for the resistance all over but bla I was just too tired to keep looking.

Is this 30-40 ohm with the car on or off?

I'm gonna go get a couple free spares from the JY