Ok so i have exhausted my mind i cannot figure out what went wrong. I was driving the other night and one of my hid's went out. No biggie this happens they are well over 3 years old. So i had a new plug n play kit, so i removed the old set and put the new one to work.

Than once i rewired the new set i cannot get the bulbs to fire. I am getting signal i.e. power to the whole unit but i cannot get the new set to fire. Ok well maybe i have a bad set?!... NO, i bought another set and re did it and like befor everything works and no light i am at my wits end please help me

-Jared

 

So you have power to the ballast. Did you make sure the harness is plugged into the ballast the right way?

 

yes i do have power to the ballast. I just went outside a little while ago and rewired my headlights to make sure that the universal 9004/9007 wires were wired correctly for the ballast. so now everything is wired correctly and it still dosent fire. I also cut the power and the grounds to make sure that they are grounded well. Still no lights

-Jared

 

Consider runing power directly from the battery to the HID's just to make sure your wiring is OK.

 

the bulbs are bad maybe? all of the fuses and relays are working and not blown?

 

It looks like only two wires 12 VDC and ground going to the ballasts either you have that or you don't. If 12 vdc and ground are good than you have a problem internal to the HIDS.

 

i havent run directly because if i did i would have to hack the harness since it ties directly into the battery, also the ballasts are getting power just not firing.

all fuses and relays are working properly i multimetered them and made sure, as for the bulbs i have installed 2 diff sets "complete and new" and they are not working.

still stumped

 

Make sure you are getting a good 12vdc and ground. Otherwise what brand are they? Is it just a two wire (12VCD and Ground) hookup?

 

perhaps the ballasts took a poopie on you...one of the resistors or diodes may have went bad inside.

 

 

i am getting 14.2vdc to them. And yes it is a two wire hookup.

i have used 3 new resistors and 6 new ballasts. I dont believe that it is the setup.

-Jared

 

Test the ballast with a bulb connected directly to the battery, + to +, - to -, if it fires then you know it's your wiring. If not then bad ballast and/or bulb.

 

did you test the factory headlight harness for power w ur meter? im sure you did, just double checking.

 

give me 10 min i will go do it now i just thought that i can put wire in the connections so i dont have to cut the harness

 

yessir this is the strangest thing i have ever come across but im gonna go and play with the grounds again and c if i can hardwire to c if it is the wireing

 

keep us posted!

 

ok so i just went outside and hardwired the bulb/ballast to the battery and they fired up.... so i checked continuity on grounds and power and i am getting what i am supposed to get, i have strong grounds and strong power signals. Is it possible to get power to them with the factory relay messed up?

 

If it worked hooked up directly to the battery that means you are not getting power when you hook them up with your regular wiring. It is a relay or wiring problem. You may be measuring the correct voltage but the stock wiring/relays/switches may not be delivering the current the light requires required. I would check the headlight relays and/or the headlight switch.

 

Sorry, just checked the circuit diagram, there are no headlight relays. Check the two 10 amp headlight fuses and the switch. How does the two wire system work the high beams of the HID's the stock system uses three wires two power and one ground. Maybe your problem is related to that?

 

there is one headlight relay how do i check it?

 

Best is swap it out with another one of the same type for testing. I don't see it in the headlight circuit so I don't think it really matters. (I realise it says headlight on it).

 

The headlight relay is for the theft system to flash your headlights. Does not matter for regular operation. It really sounds like you are not getting power to the ballasts. You can access the FSM and check the wiring sounds like you know how to use a meter.

 

the fastest way to check if its the relay is to switch it with another of the same kind under the hood...if not, then

1. Locate the particular relay you want to test.
2. Step 2
   Test the relay incoming voltage using a multimeter or test light, to make sure it is receiving power. Turn the ignition key on or start the engine if necessary to activate the particular circuit you are testing. If there is voltage go to the next step.
3. Step 3
   Unplug the relay from its harness. Be careful, some relays have locking pins that must be pulled off before removal.
4. Step 4
   Find the two power terminals and two control terminals on the relay. Usually, the two thicker wires that connect to the relay hook up to the power terminals, the other two go to the control circuit terminals. Many relays are marked on top for easy identification; otherwise, refer to your particular vehicle service manual.
5. Step 5
   Use your multimeter to check for continuity between the two power relay terminals. There should be no continuity. If there is continuity replace the relay.
6. Step 6
   Test the control circuit terminals on the relay by connecting a fused jumper wire from one of the terminals to the positive terminal of the car battery; when you connect the other jumper wire to the other control circuit terminal and ground, you should hear a click sound coming from inside the relay. If you do not hear the click sound, reverse the jumper wires connections-the jumper wire going to the positive side of the battery to ground; and the one going to ground now should connect to the positive side of the battery. If you still do not hear the click sound, replace the relay.
7. Step 7
   Leave the jumper wires connected to the relay control circuit terminals, power and ground. Now, using your multimeter, check for continuity between the two power relay terminals. If there is no continuity, reverse the jumper wire connections again and test once more for continuity. If you still find no continuity between the two power terminals, replace the relay.

 

kk well im stumpped again n have to go to work thanks for the help yall keep em comming but i have to work

 

For any car that did not come with HIDs stock should be using this, provides power direct from battery and guaranteed clean ground.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=900...1&_from=&_ipg=

 

off topic but i just got hid lo/hi beam bulbs...installed em, and looked like the hi beams were the lo and vice versa...the wiring diagram was in BLACK AND WHITE with no other identification...wtf!!! so needless to say, i got the correct ground, but hi and lo beams were crossed...and i blew a ballast...just now! lol go figure. they work, only on the hi beam function. fail!!!!!!


but did you figure your problem out yet?

 

Makes sense using something like this. I have not checked but I would expect HID's may use more current than stock headlights. Although the stock headlight circuit is fused and the fuses should blow if there is excess current the additional current flowing through the headlight switch on the stalk could cause it or the fuses to fail.

My guess is the OP's headlight fuses #53 & 54 (15 AMP) or the headlight switch have failed. He needs to take a good look there. He will probably need to fix the stock circuit and then add the wiring harness. If that's not it then he is not getting a good ground through the stock wiring.

 

If they weren't going into projector housings it's karma, ain't that a bitc*.

 

eww projectors look ugly imo...retro is ftw

 

No, i havent figured it out..... i am sorry to hear that yours blew. So, i do have a new idea i was dreaming last night and i had and idea that maybe the company sent me the wrong setup. If they sent me a 9007 than they would not fire since the ground and low beam would be crossed (hid's need to have the correct ground and power to work properly, unlike halogens which need only a complete circuit) so i am going to convert over to the 9007 setup and hopefully that will fix the problem. I will keep you guys informed.

-Jared

 

After I did some searching it looks like HID's use less current/power than halogen so the recommendations I made earlier are probably not valid.

 

you are right about the 9004/9007 cuz thats what i did when i blew the ballast lol. in another note, i did get mine working again.

no, i would still say your input was pretty accurate. they do use less wattage, but still the relays activate when 12v is reached from the switch. everything else was pretty much on point

 

http://www.carhidkits.com/index.php?...allation_guide

just go to the video that says change pins in 9004/9007 connector!

 

After reading the above statement, and the following.....

One can conclude your method of connecting the kit to your car's electrical system is at fault.

 

ur harness for the HIDs is fried, buy another one and they will work again.

 

thank you for the vid feeds mods should sticky this one under the diy

 

they should! i may be a noob but i like to share lol

 

Ok well i would first like to say thank you all for all of the brainstorming!!

Now down to business.... I made a big woopsey i feel really special for what it is that i have done..... I watched the vids that were posted earlier in the thread and i thought well i havent checked the input of the ballast to see if the connection was wrong..... well guess what i had both of the headlights crossed over so the connections were wrong.

I feel really bad and kinda special that i didnt check the connections before i came here on the forum but i am extremely stoked that you guys helped me with my problem. To be honest i would have spliced my harness to a 9007 harness if i didnt read the thread. So once again thank you all for all of the love and help.

 

oh man! at least you got them up and running. yeah i almost did that with my new ballast i purchased yesterday until i looked twice at the plug compared to the other one i had.

 

Thanks for sharing. Nice post.

http://www.clickresponse.net/search-...on-service.htm