Ok so power comes from the ECU. Yea, rewire all those if u gotta. The wire at the sensor will be the same color at the ECU. I would run new wire for all that.

 

I just pulled a P0340 last night. I cleared it, cranked and pulled it again. So I'm going to follow the diagnostic on EC206 and see what happens. I hope the sensor is bad so I don't have to chase a short circuit. But I hope the wires bad so I don't have to spend $70 lol.

 

If u have an ohmeter, all u do is check the impedance across the sensor. I forget what the spec is but the HAYNES has the procedure. I think the FSM troubleshoot procedure for the CPS is a bit convoluted when its alot simpler than they lead on

 

I agree lol. I will only be doing the trouble shooting that I know is needed i.e. OHM the sensor, OHM the connector and go from there.

Thanks a lot for the advice.

 

Oh! Do I need to disconnect the battery before OHMing the connectors and wires and stuff?

 

Nope

 

I had a CPS issue on mine, all I had to do was clear the code and it would start.
it's now someone else's problem though.

 

My car is back up and running. Swapped fuel pumps yesterday with my parts car. So glad to have it back.

 

I'm back! ....Haven't had a lot of time to work on the max (working 17 hour days) but today's the day to fiddle around with it.....i changed the starter (finally) for a new one AND cleaned the MAF and it still does the same thing (cranks but doesn't start.......it's weird though because while i'm trying to crank it...it cranks and cranks and it stops cranking in the middle of cranking abruptly....but it sounds like it wants to start...fuel is pumping fuel for sure as i checked the fuel pump buzz and the fuel filter.....codes show 0505 also) ....today i'll be checking the spark plugs.....what should i gap them at and what type of plugs should i get (from autozone).....anything i should know when i change them out?

 

sounds like you need an extra ground strap or 2 have you tried that?

0505 means nothing

i would also try and swap the starter relay with another of the same color

and of course check your fuses

 

there is not supposed to be any voltage in the circuit during an ohm test. truly the best way to check a circuit is a voltage drop test. sometimes you can get a false reading with an ohm test(continuity may be flowing in the alternate circuit, ect)
I noted that someone said nissan can not check a Pcm outside on the car, however Jim Wolf can. I bought some cam adapters from them and they offered to check the PCM for free(they have a "simulator").
the highest reading in any circuit for resistance I got were a mere .5 ohms. all my powers and grouds were good. I replaced all cam and crank sensors, still no fire for my car. JWT should get back to me near the end of the week...
maybe someone could make a list at the end of the thread for most common causes of no start conditions.

 

Thanks for the response....today (since i had so many errands to do) i was limited to what i could do (i had to cook for the kids and get ready for work in the morning (4a) plus it was getting dark out there) so i took your advice and added (to the 1 10 guage wire) 2 more 10 guage wires and grounded them....hooked it up to the neg terminal...also i checked the starter relay (i'm assuming the relay labeled auto theft/start) changed it for the same color one and still had the same symptoms/issue (cranks and doesn't start....also it still cranks and stops cranking abruptly sometimes....weird)

 

Any codes??

 

im sorry i should have been more clear you should add a ground as close to the starter as possible (i used a bolt on the tranny )

the other day when i was putting head lights in and noticed that there is a ground on the pass. side by the coolant reservoir and windshield washer fluid, that was really rusty i took if off to clean it and ended up breaking the bolt to i combined it with a different ground an the car started ALOT better

and you might also wanna check your battery sounds kinda weak you can do a load test by hook up the multi meter to the battery and if it drops below 9v-10v when you crank it (youll need another person) your battery need to be replaced or charged

 

My 1998 Maxima had problems starting. It sat a lot and the Battery would go low often and need charged. I thought this was why it cranked a little slow. I thought the battery was bad but walmart would not replace it. I had to push down on the gas pedel to get it to start. I did not think my starter was bad because it hit on every try until one day it would not crank at all. I had starter checked at O'reillys and it was hit and miss. When it did engage it ran really slow and didn't sound very good. I got a new starter and it fires up quick on the first try every time now. I was afraid to drive this car for 18 months because I didn't trust it to start. I learned alot about all the other possible problems on this fourum for future references. Thanks

 

Well i got the 0505...


no need for apologizies friend....i just appreciate you trying to help me troubleshoot this....i want to drive this thing....our maxima's look so sexy, but it sucks to see it just parked there....but i have 3 (extra) ground wires now (using mere 10 guage wire)...2 are on the transmission itself (not scratched but looks like a good surface) and the 3rd is on the motor mount screw....threw the jumper cables on it and tried to fire it up and got the cranking cranking (stops abruptly until i try to crank it again) ....she sounds like she wants to fire up though...so close i can feel it...going to TRY to tackle the sparkplugs tomorrow...what are the possibilities of it being fouled plugs? Would the ecu catch it? (i have 0505) ...should i even bother? ....

 

Any chance I could get a pic of that passenger side ground? I was working over there when I did the o rings behind my TC case and removed alternator power steering pump and all that jazz. I am wondering if I may have ungrounded that wire?

Thanks, Dan

 

U guys must have the same issue lol

If u really cant find the problem...bite the bullet and drop another engine in it.

 

i was lookin up stats for our car and i saw somewhere that the coolant temperature sensor could hamper the starting on the 96 model year i.e. what i have and am going through with the starting not always working

 

Doesn't this diagram show that the black wire is ground?

 

replace the map sensor. that will cause no spark or fuel also. it doesnt always trigger the cel to come on when its bad

 

you could also check the cts to

 

I had that issue. Had to replace the ECM. Cost about $400 for a remanufactured unit. Runs great now though...

 

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...ORENGSWAPS.PDF
according to JWT, this is all you would need to make it fire. In no offense to you, I hope you are wrong, because I am pulling my hair out trying to get this thing to fire up...

JWT says my computer is fine. tommorow I am going to hook up the OBD comm wire to my spec-v's port.

I read and read and the more I notice people mentioning starters.
-now, question is, does the engine speed have t o hit a certain RPM before it will sync ckp/cmp's and fire?? what are most common failures/malfunctions on these maxima's with close to 200,000(my computer and sensors all 190,000+)??
does anyone know if our MAF's are 12 volts? according to nissan and JWT they recieve source voltage?? thought all MAFs were 5.. maybe someone
who has done a 4th gen 3.5 swap might have some insight??
I am so lost right now...

 

got 7 codes today, none which I think relate to no fire issue.
P0110
P0180
P0105
P0443
P0446
Manufacturer specific thus far:
P1441(I think Emisions)
P1150(map/Baro), must this be functioning like 95maxse3000 said earlier??

**Bump for any help would be appriciated

 

It sounds just like my car! EVERYTHING has been checked out. Only the fuel pump acted werid - but momentarily, going from 42#pressure to 15#and back to 42#

I'm going to have the pump changed, and if it works, I'll let you know/

 

One other weird thing: the car will start when it's cold. Then die 1 1/2 to 2 minutes later and not restart. When I keep the idle going until the car reaches operating temperature, it runs OK. BUT, let it cool, and it's back to Square One.

 

Sounds like IATS, MAF, and/or IACV. Jus clean em

 

All of them check out OK.

Did I mention that I accidentally put power steering fluid in my tank a few months ago?

 

Hi All

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I can't create a new thread....guess I don't have the rights to.

I have a 99 Maxima and I drove to work the other morning and when I came out of my office to go home, I started the car, put it in reverse and it stalled dead. I restarted it and it started and did the same thing again. Then it would not start or even try to start. I thought it might be out of gas, even though the gauge said there was still gas in it. So I added some. It still wouldn't start.

I had it towed home and now it sits in my driveway. I need to get this working. Someone at work loaned me an OBD scanner to plug into my laptop, but it keeps saying that my car is not OBDII compliant and I know it is. The instructions for putting the computer in diagnostic mode, so the warning light flashes does not make sense and I can't find the screw they talk about in the round hole on the side of the ECU. I have checked the fuel pump and it does run, and I pinched the fuel line up by the motor and when it starts I can feel pressure in the line. I sprayed some starter fluid in the breather and it ran for a couple of seconds, so it appears that it is not pumping gas to the injectors, because there is gas up to the motor. I have checked the crank position sensor and the resistance is within the tolerances and the same for the camshaft sensor above by the valve pan on the passenger side of the engine. Can anyone offer any hints to why it would be behaving like this? I'm a little afraid the ECU is fried, since it doesn't think it is OBDII compliant. Anyone have anyother tricks to get it pumping gas to the injectors?

 

Hi All

I borrowed a OBD scanner and it is showing code P0158 and it is saying Bank 2 and Sensor 2, which I believe is an oxygen sensor. Hmmmm......would this shutdown the fuel to the engine? Seems kinda weird.

Also have:
P0400
P0325
P0325 Pending
P0180

 

Hi All,

I have the same issue. Car keeps cranking, but just won't turn over. Scanner has P0120, throttle position sensor lit up. Is that a possible cause for the no start or should i go with trying to change the cam sensor?

 

Usually when the max starts to have cold start issues, first thing to do is clean MAF, and TB. THere is a how-to in the stickies to accomplish this.

O2 sensor could cause the car to stall cuz the car maybe running too lean under inital load. Check these per FSM.

P0400 sounds like EGR. THose are hard to diagnos but wont cause drivability issues.

P0325 is KS. Replace and restore true maxi power. Jus buy one off ebay.

P0180 is mulitple misfire i think. Check CPS and coils. 99 is notorious for coils failing unexpectantly.



If the car says TPS is faulty then change it. First perfrom the cleaning tho. Clean TB and MAF. see if that helps. If not, then replace TPS. CPS can be checked using multimeter. It can cause no start or rough starting. CKPS near tranny pan can cause the same too. Check both.

 

Use pmhor CEL decoder page...its a stickie

 

all is correct expect this.
fix your misfire before the knock sensor. 100% of times a knock code is triggered by a misfire, by nature of the programing.
if you still have the code after fixing all other codes, then replace.
you will also know if it needs replaced by manually removing it and checking for cracks. another sign is a dead(slow as ****) first gear or terrible MPG 17and below.
but if you replace a cracked knock sensor before you fix the codes then the code will remain untill all others are cleared

also, buy one off ebay.

and indeed 99s are notorious for this, if you need any rear coils i have a set of 3 for sale wheneve you wanna buy.

 

Well I cleared all of the codes and replaced the knock sensor, and it still won't start. So now when I do a scan it is sowing no codes. The crank and camshaft sensors aren't throwing codes but has anyone had sensors bad that did n't throw codes and everything was good after they were replaced. I put some gas down a spark plug hole while I was checking to see if the plugs were wet and it was trying to start, so this still seems like a fuel problem.

Comments welcome

 

pull the fuel line and check for pressure, pull an injector and check for spray.if its fuel check the fuel..not difficult to decide what to do.

 

I disconnected the fuel line on the engine side of the fuel fileter and it is pumping. Before I did this I had someone turn the key on for me and I squeezed the fuel line there and when the pump turns on for a couple of seconds I can feel pressure on the fuel line. This is mentioned in the Nissan service manual. I'll check the injector too.

 

What is the normal behaviour of the security light for the immobilizer. Mine goes off for 5 seconds when I turn the key to the on position and then it glows red. I had an Audiovox alarm system on the car when I got it and it has been nothing but trouble. I removed it all yesterday.

 

Have your engine harness checked first