Has anyone ever bought and install an aftermarket, non-oem, knock sensor from ebay for their Maxima? If so, how was the car running afterward?
I found this knock sensor but kinda of doubtful about it:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...item5638c784aa

The seller says it's made by a company called Q.D, a japanese manufacturer, exceeds oem performance, and has 3 years warranty.

Need your two cents!

 

itlll work dude buy it

 

It should work ok. Personally i'd pony up the extra $37 and go for the OEM one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OE-Ni...item1c0f87d511

 

hey whats the best site for a free diagram for knock sensor replacement

 

Search boy, lol

goto the 4th gen how to's and find knock sensor. There'll be a tutorial

 

i got ebay one 22$ shipped and it's work well

 

I just did the $20 knock sensor too. It works fine. It was a PITA to get my hands in there to get it done, but it is possible! I think it's a 12mm bolt.

 

Installed aftermarket, and gained power. I know because I started to tie with a truck that always beat me.
Unless you change the ks on a cali spec vehicle, no one has the right to complain. LOL

 

I bought one several months ago but finally changed it saturday with the help of a friend, and wow, if you need to change it go do it the difference is night and day!

 

I heard they're not that good

 

My knock sensor hasn't arrived yet (order OEM) - hope it gets here soon...

(on other news - Maitland Auto Exchange did me right - they fixed my car for charge.

 

There's a 7-minute how-to video somewhere on youtube. If you have federal emissions, you can (barely) get at it without removing the intake, as in the video. If you have CA emissions, that stupid little swirl valve will complicate things.

 

I've got a 99 cali spec and it is harder than the older models to replace. I just bought mine off ebay too but I've been running around on the resistor trick.

 

The 99 isn't hard to replace - just in a difficult to get your hand to location, (cali spec doesn't change this - and really not much difference in that section of the engine bay. Honestly once you get a ratchet on it - it comes right out (be careful not to drop the bolt - or you'll have a heck of a time getting to it)

 

I bought the cheap ebay one- $17.00 shipped, it looks totally normal, doesn't look cheap at all..... but i've given up on mine, gotta find someone to do it for me..

 

Make sure you get someone to do it, I got mine done on saturday by the help of a friend and the difference is night and day! Mine didn't look cheap either, it was actually a nissan oem

 

I bought one of the cheap ones last year....I need to buy a cheap one this year....

 

LOL...gained power....thats a good one!

 

More like recover lost hp. I could give a fu*k whether you or anyone else disagree. Just stating fact.

 

i replaced mine this morning on my 97. It is a 12 socket with swivel and 18 inch extension too about 5 min. I put in a cheap on off ebay and the difference is night and day.

 

+1 Agree, your post didn't warrant the unnecessary derision.

 

will the knock sensor "ghost code" show up as a pending code on a scan tool? or can you only access it through a blink code? and me personally i would only buy oem but thats just me im sure an aftermarket one will work just fine

 

Mine was detected my the scanner.

 

OEM will def work right. If the price difference is not that big go OEM. I bought one from e-bay. 30 minutes to put it in (went slow to preserve the skin on my hands :P), a minute to reset the ECU and done!

This is the thread with pictures on where it is, and how to get at it.

 

I bought one from ebay for my 3.5 swap and it fooking sux, still get code.

 

probably got the cheap-o for 20 bucks, right?

p.s. sometimes the knock sensor code is being triggered by something else.

 

re ghost code - correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the KS code sets the CEL. the KS is not a mission critical component for emissions control, so a bad KS will not fail emissions test. all it does is allow the ECU to run the advanced timing map vs. the "safe" map. the advance timing map is where the extra power comes from under hard accel. other than that there is no difference. people generally don't know they have a bad KS until they get some other problem, check the codes, and see the KS is there too. at least that's the way it happened with me.

 

Sometimes the harness is bad so change ths KS and the harness when it time to do the KS.

 

How does a better knock sensor improve performance? Also, I just had a O2 sensor replaced. For a while the Check engine light didn't come on, now it came back on with the O2 sensor and Knock sensor code. The original problem was the MAF which was also replaced (Cost me >700 to replace all the sensors) So far the car is running fine where as it was stalling before. The mechanic said 3 of my coils were bad.

So, I'm not sure if I should replace the O2 sensor, Knock Sensor, or the coils. I'm going to attempt to do any of the replacements myself. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

- First time working on cars

 

It doesn't. He's just comparing it to a messed up one.

It's like saying "I got a new leg transplant in Thailand, I'm faster now." Well yeah, faster than your old 1-legged self. Don't mean you gonna suddenly be faster if you replace your oem legs.

 

This had me

 

Thanks, so should I not replace any of the sensors and/or coils if the car is running fine. Even though the light is on?

 

go to autozone and have them read your codes. tell us what they are, and we can help.

O2 sensors and coils need to be working. the KS doesn't. KS is your last priority.

 

so...which sensors did you get replaced for $700?

 

To answer both your questions:
Original codes from pepboys:
P1320- Primary ignition signal fault
P0325-Knock sensor problem bank 1
P0160-H02S2 B2, abnormal voltage
Problem 1: Car was bucking violently when gas isnt being applied (particularly in low gears) worsened to stalling and not holding idle
Fix 1: Vacuum line supposedly leaked (Crappy mechanic)
Took it into pepboys and they wouldn't touch my car cause it was so bad
Fix 2: Changed O2 sensor (Part # CSO/O-340482), problem 1 still occured thus mechanic changed Mass flow sensor.
Recommends: Catalytic Converter change and timing belt changed, also told me 3 of my ignition coils were bad.(at the moment the idle varies from 1300/1500 to 900)
This is the up to date problem.
Problem 2: About a month and a half later, CEL comes on with P0325, and P0140. I don't sense anything wrong with the car, except it kinda bucks in low gears when i let off the gas, dad said it was normal and didnt say anything was wrong when he drove it.

Sorry for the longness, thought it was best to give the experts as much info as possible. Thanks for all who help.

 

P1320 means 1 or more of your coils is bad. generally you will throw a cylinder specific code soon after 1320 shows up. maybe check your codes again?

P0140 is another O2 sensor. i think the one right before the CAT. it is not causing your drivability problems, but you should get it replaced. I forget if this is the one the ECU uses to trim the fuel injectors. someone else will likely chime in with an answer.

ignore KS for now.

get a new mechanic. our cars don't have a timing belt, and I highly doubt you needed a new MAF.