Help with Flywheel Selection....
Help with Flywheel Selection....
ok right now i've got the fidanza flywheel which i believe ways around 12lbs.....only problem is the 4 of the PP bolts are f'n stripped so i have to take the trans back out to install a new flywheel. My question is has anyone heard of or used the Aasco aluminum flywheel. It runs about $460 and supposedly ways at only 5lbs....i know thats prolly too light for F/I but what about all motor in my case....OR should i just order another fidanza. Im kinda pissed about fidanza b/c the holes were stripped when i got it but needed a car to get down to school so i need to take the trans back out and fix it before the bolts back themselves out
Stripped holes are easily repaired with Keenserts. No reason to throw away an expensive flywheel just for that.
I'd stay away from an ultralight flywheel if your car is a daily driver. The engine will bog easily when engaging the clutch, and engine speed control when shifting becomes erratic. You can adjust to it, but it makes driving a manual trans equipped car a lot more work.
I'd stay away from an ultralight flywheel if your car is a daily driver. The engine will bog easily when engaging the clutch, and engine speed control when shifting becomes erratic. You can adjust to it, but it makes driving a manual trans equipped car a lot more work.
true....i dont have any experience with repairing this kinda thing with these keenserts....u think an exhaust shop or something would know? i would obviously rip everything apart myself bc labor is crazy plus its pretty easy lol
Hmmmmmm...cast iron Flywheel OR a alumiunum flywheel?????
I think i want cast iron man.
I didnt even kno they made aftermarket flywheels. Usually jus get it resurfaced or used. And i though new flywheels were cheap like 100 bucks or somethin
Last edited by cashoit; Jan 26, 2010 at 08:49 AM.
I would stay away from an exhaust shop, unless you know for sure they are fairly competent.
Basically, you need to drill out the old threads with the appropriate sized drill for the Keensert you need and then retap the new hole. You need a drill press so that you can be sure the holes are perpendicular to the flywheel face. Installing the Keenserts is simple after you do the drilling and tapping.
An automotive machine shop that does stuff like flywheel and brake rotor resurfacing is probably a good bet (but not places like Autozone and Pepboys, that probably don't have a drill press). If you can't find anybody, I could probably do it for you if you wanted to pay for the shipping.
Basically, you need to drill out the old threads with the appropriate sized drill for the Keensert you need and then retap the new hole. You need a drill press so that you can be sure the holes are perpendicular to the flywheel face. Installing the Keenserts is simple after you do the drilling and tapping.
An automotive machine shop that does stuff like flywheel and brake rotor resurfacing is probably a good bet (but not places like Autozone and Pepboys, that probably don't have a drill press). If you can't find anybody, I could probably do it for you if you wanted to pay for the shipping.
I would stay away from an exhaust shop, unless you know for sure they are fairly competent.
Basically, you need to drill out the old threads with the appropriate sized drill for the Keensert you need and then retap the new hole. You need a drill press so that you can be sure the holes are perpendicular to the flywheel face. Installing the Keenserts is simple after you do the drilling and tapping.
An automotive machine shop that does stuff like flywheel and brake rotor resurfacing is probably a good bet (but not places like Autozone and Pepboys, that probably don't have a drill press). If you can't find anybody, I could probably do it for you if you wanted to pay for the shipping.
Basically, you need to drill out the old threads with the appropriate sized drill for the Keensert you need and then retap the new hole. You need a drill press so that you can be sure the holes are perpendicular to the flywheel face. Installing the Keenserts is simple after you do the drilling and tapping.
An automotive machine shop that does stuff like flywheel and brake rotor resurfacing is probably a good bet (but not places like Autozone and Pepboys, that probably don't have a drill press). If you can't find anybody, I could probably do it for you if you wanted to pay for the shipping.
Probably around $50-75 labor and the cost of the Keenserts.
So u and the manufacturer saying that the aluminized FIdanza reduces rotational inertia which in turns reduces stresses on the internals of the engine and makes the engine rotate faster to increase HP. So essence, an cast iron flywheel at 150 HP is rotating lets say 3500 rpm...but the fidanza at 150 HP is rotating at 3000 rpm becasue its not as heavy to rotate. Basically increasing and improving throttle response. I get that
My problem is, high grade aluminum is still aluminum. Its not as robust as cast iron.
But i get that the OEM flywheel can be like a parasitic load on the eninge and rob HP
I ran the Stillen flywheel which is identical to the UR and I thought it was also similar to the AASCO as well. Does the AASCO require transfering over the starter ring gear like the Stillen and UR do?
The Stillen weighed in at 7lbs naked, and with the ring gear attached it was around 10lbs.

When I ran it I was still NA, and rpms did drop much faster, I now have the Fidanza and honestly they are some what similair in my opinion.
The Fidanza weighed in right around at 12lbs and was complete, no need to transfer parts over.
The Stillen weighed in at 7lbs naked, and with the ring gear attached it was around 10lbs.

When I ran it I was still NA, and rpms did drop much faster, I now have the Fidanza and honestly they are some what similair in my opinion.
The Fidanza weighed in right around at 12lbs and was complete, no need to transfer parts over.
I ran the Stillen flywheel which is identical to the UR and I thought it was also similar to the AASCO as well. Does the AASCO require transfering over the starter ring gear like the Stillen and UR do?
The Stillen weighed in at 7lbs naked, and with the ring gear attached it was around 10lbs.
When I ran it I was still NA, and rpms did drop much faster, I now have the Fidanza and honestly they are some what similair in my opinion.
The Fidanza weighed in right around at 12lbs and was complete, no need to transfer parts over.
The Stillen weighed in at 7lbs naked, and with the ring gear attached it was around 10lbs.
When I ran it I was still NA, and rpms did drop much faster, I now have the Fidanza and honestly they are some what similair in my opinion.
The Fidanza weighed in right around at 12lbs and was complete, no need to transfer parts over.
I thought u only need these flywheels if u runnin F/I.
Does these Aftermarkets last long?? I would love to experience the gains myself, but i dont have the resources to replace a flywheel myself and im not goin to pay for the labor to replace if they only good for a yr or so.
I thought u only need these flywheels if u runnin F/I.
Does these Aftermarkets last long?? I would love to experience the gains myself, but i dont have the resources to replace a flywheel myself and im not goin to pay for the labor to replace if they only good for a yr or so.
Does these Aftermarkets last long?? I would love to experience the gains myself, but i dont have the resources to replace a flywheel myself and im not goin to pay for the labor to replace if they only good for a yr or so.
Website for fidanza replacement friction surface
http://www.custommaxima.com/product/...e/Default.aspx
http://www.custommaxima.com/product/...e/Default.aspx
Website for fidanza replacement friction surface
http://www.custommaxima.com/product/...e/Default.aspx
http://www.custommaxima.com/product/...e/Default.aspx
yea....i dont need the insert as the flywheel has no more than 2k miles on it.....the problem is the bolts for the pressure plate which i believe are on the outside of the replacement disk are stripped....(4 of the 8 or 9..
i need the outer portion if thats available single or just buy another. or take stephenmax idea and use keenserts...
i need the outer portion if thats available single or just buy another. or take stephenmax idea and use keenserts...
i just install my fidanza and stage 3 today. but im having some issues with flywheel. the stock flywheel has a washer ( a big fat)and i was gonna use the stock washer to bolt up the fidanza but then i notice the bolts were to short. what did you guys did about it? ill try to get a pic to show you guys what im talking about
You have a couple of options. One is to get some longer bolts from your local industrial nut and bolt supply house (not Home Depot). Or you can ditch the thick one piece washer and get eight regular thin washers in order to get more thread engagement. If you do the latter, use red loctite to make sure the bolts won't loosen up over time. I've done it both ways on my car.
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