Detailed Instructions On How To Remove And Install Injectors With Detailed Pictures
02-14-2010, 10:29 PM
#1
Detailed Instructions On How To Remove And Install Injectors With Detailed Pictures
First off, I know there are already a few how-tos on the removal and installation of injectors but I didn't find any that were comprehensive and detailed so I decided to write my own.
Changing my injectors became a necessity because my car has been cold stalling and my dealer tested my injectors and they're gummed up and running too lean.
I am by no means a mechanic so I am sure other more experienced members on the org will have techniques that are different or better than mine. These instructions are for removing the front three injectors. I'm fairly certain that the rear three is the same procedure except you have to remove the UIM (upper intake manifold) to get at them.
Here is the link to remove the UIM:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...im-w-pics.html
I'm detailed so I like to round up all the tools that I feel are necessary for the job at hand. I apologize for the grouped photos but the org only allows for I believe 5 photos per post, so I had to combine them.
Here is a list of tools I used to remove and install the new injectors.
L to R
Rubber Mallet: To gently tap upside down rubber-handled screwdriver to seat injector
Metal Hammer: Used to tap 5 inch metal-rod phillips driver bit on screws to loosen them.
LED Head Lamp: Invaluable when working on cars, gets the light exactly where you're looking.
CRC Electrical Cleaner: I used this because I had it laying around. It's used to spray out the injector receptacle because they can get gritty. You want a perfectly clean hole for the injector to seat in, otherwise it can cause leaks. You can use other cleaners, I like the electrical because it evaporates quickly.
Steel Phillips Drill Extension or Solid Phillips Screwdriver: I don't have a good solid Phillips-only screwdriver so I used the screw bit. It's used with the steel hammer to hit the screw to free it up. You only need one solid hit. Do not over do it!!
Hard Rubber-Handled Screwdriver: This one is a Craftsman Professional. I turn it upside down, rubber handle onto the center of the injector and hold it firmly and hit gently with a rubber mallet a few times to seat the injector. You should not hurt the injector with this method. Start with a light solid tap and progressively increase the hit until it seats. Take your time!
Screwdriver With Interchangeable Tips: Mine is a Gearwrench, with a ratcheting system, it rivals the SnapOn version. I got it at Sears for $30 for a 30 piece set. Comes with socket drivers and a slew of bits. It come with a T handle and also a straight handle. It's one of my favorite tools!
Clean Motor Oil: I just put some in my Mobile One oil cap, it's used to coat the O rings on the new injectors so they don't bind and tear when you insert them. Give the O rings a nice coating like you do on an oil filter.
Expandable Pliers: Used to grab onto the center square part of the injector, which are the sides that have the horizontal holes on the left and to the right. You will slightly mar the injector when you remove them but only very slightly, it will not effect the injector if you plan on reusing them. If you're **** you could buy those rubber protectors that go on the end of the pliers to protect whatever you're grabbing.
Grease: Use this on the the injector retaining screws so they are easier to remove later and don't corrode.
Rag: Used to cover the injector when you are extracting it. There is some fuel that slashes up and it will catch it and prevent it from potentially splashing into your face!
Rubber Nitrite Gloves: I know many of you guys are tough but these gloves will prevent gas from getting all over your hands, which is a pain to wash off and they will keep your hands clean and protect your hands from all the little knicks and scratches you get from working on your car. I swear by these gloves. You can pick up a box from your local Harbor Freight and Tool for like $10.00, money well spent.
Safety Glasses or Goggles: I don't have any in the photo but I was wearing them. Wear them whenever there is potential for flying liquid or debris, always protect your eyes. Safety first. Remember, blind men can't drive Maxima's!
Lots Of Patience: Take your time and don't rush. I only removed one injector at a time, didn't want to drop a screw or something into the hole. Take your time and you will have injectors that seal the first time.
Good luck and follow the instructions, you may improvise if you feel that you want to, your mileage may vary.
Let's get started!
1. Remove the #32 15 Amp fuel pump fuse located on the left just below your steering column. The door has a handle on it, just pull it and it will come off. There is a schematic of the fuse inside of the fuse cover.
2. After you remove the fuse crank the car 4 times in 3 second intervals to release the fuel pressure. You car may run for a second and die, afterward you're ready to begin removing the injectors.
3. Carefully remove the injector harnesses and move them to the side.
4. Take the solid screwdriver or a long metal screw bit and hold it firmly into the screw and give it a solid tap with the metal hammer. This will loosen up the screw so it will be easier to remove and lessen the chance that you will strip the phillips head. I was able to successfully reuse all of my screws with this method provided by the org.
After you hit the screw you should find a phillips screw bit for your interchangeable screwdriver that's the tightest and most secure for the phillips screw size. When you find the best fitting bit you will TIGHTEN the screw just a hair, just enough to hear it make a snap! sound, this will free the screw and from there you can start to loosen and remove the screw. Do this to both screws on the injector retainer. Keep track of both screws and injector retainer.
4. Take the expandable pliers and expand them all the way out, grab the the injector in the middle-square part, the part with the holes on the sides. Hold it firmly and cover the injector with the rag. (do not grab the injector by the electrical connector, you will break it as I found out through trial and error)
If the injector is not in the ideal position to grab you can turn the injector by firmly turning the electrical connector with your hand. With a firm twisting and pulling motion the injector should pop out.
As you can see from the pictures the old injector has quite a bit of debris on it. In my opinion I don't think the tips where the 4 tiny holes are really have a chance to get clogged like you see in the fuel injector cleaner commercials. I'm thinking they actually get gummed and clogged on the inside, which effect how they spray out of the holes. Just my observation.
The injectors I used were from Autozone, they were $78.99, with no core charge, they're made in the USA by GP Sorensen Part #800-1149N, It also says Stanard Motor Products on the box. They're very high quality, almost like an exact OEM part. The only difference I found were the blue collars by the lower O ring. They come with all O rings installed also the insulator that goes on top.
I had concerns because the O rings looked slightly thinner than stock, but I can attest they work perfectly and do not leak. I've driven over 100 Miles on them with no leaks. I image the reason why the original O rings look thicker is because they've been exposed to fuel for years which made them swell.
Here is a top photo of the injector receptacle. All of mine had a munch of black, sandy-like grit on the walls. I imagine it was the build up of debris that the injector screens were hold back.
5. Spray the injector receptacle with the cleaner, I used electrical cleaner. MAF cleaner will work great too. You don't want that sandy grit rubbing on your new O rings when they seat. I also notices a bunch of sand and grime stuck on the upper ring of the receptacle that I have circled in a picture.
I believe some of that works it's way loose and falls into the crevice of the injector and the O ring, and over time can cause the ring to fail. I first used a piece of paper towel to cover the hole so none of crap gets into the engine. Make the paper big enough so it doesn't fall in. I then used a toothpick to scrap the crud out. To safely remove the crud I used a shopvac to suck out the debris before removing the paper towl.
6. Liberally coat the O rings with clean motor oil. I thought this might mess up the injector but if you think about it, the fuel will wash away the oil quite easily.
7. Carefully seat the inject into the receptacle. Hold it firmly and give it a few twists. Maybe if you're He-man you might be able to seat it with your bare hands, but I doubt it. There are a few posts that say screwing down the injector retainer over the injector will seat it. I found that advice to be false, at least it didn't work for me. One person said hit it with combination wrench on the open side with a hammer but I thought that might send too much shock to the injector and damage it.
8. Take the rubber handled screwdriver or any hard rubber device (get your mind out of the gutter LOL) place the HANDLE squarely on the square part of the injector and with the rubber mallet give a light hit, progressively hitting it harder until it seats. You will know when it does, it will make a distinctive sound.
When you put the injector insulator and the retainer onto the injector you will notice there there is only about 1/16 of inch of space that is needed to screw the retainer down. That is why it would be nearly impossible to for the retainer to seat the injector. There is no need to reef on the screws. The retainer will touch the injector receptacle and from there, no matter how much you turn the screw it will not go down any further. It's just a retainer.
You can see the round dimple that was left on my screwdriver handle where it made contact with the injector.
9. Next you will put the rubber insulator on top of the injector. At first I was going to put the insulator onto the injector but it was harder to line up. The retainer has a 1/2 circle on one side as you can see in the photo. I decided to push the rubber side onto the retainer, it goes and stays on with firm squeeze. You can clearly see the round side and the flat side.
10. You're almost there. Next, make sure the injector is facing toward you in approximately the 4 O'clock position so it's in the middle of the retainer opening. Once you have it centered you can line up the screw holes.
11. Locate the two screw and dip the tips with dab of grease so they are easier to remove later and don't corrode. A little dab will do ya. Here is a close up of my screwdriver setup.
12. Finally, insert the screws and make sure they line up. I took my screwdriver rod out of the handle and turned the screws down evenly with my finger tips before tightening. Like I said, this is the best screwdriver set out there! It's got checkered grips on the middle of the rod so it's easy to finger turn.
You don't have to tight the retainer very much. It will touch the receptacle on the fuel rail very quickly. Just give it a nice 1/8 turn after the screws bottom out.
Here a picture of all three front injectors after replacement and all three of the old injectors. #1 I pulled out by the connector. I got lucky and didn't crack anything, #2 I destroyed the connector thinking I could pull it like #1, #3 I pulled by the square center.
13. Double check your work, make sure all your tools have been accounted for and that you haven't left anything in the engine compartment. Reinsert the 15 AMP fuse that you originally pulled from fuse terminal #32.
It will take several cranks to start the car because the fuel pressure has to build up and also because of the cleaner you sprayed into the injector hole. My car started after 3 long cranks. It was a little rough at first but then it purred like a kitten.
While the car is running check for any leaks or fuel smell by the injectors. If you've done everything correctly you shouldn't have any. Take the car for a spin around the block and recheck the injectors.
I've logged over 100 mines since I've replaced mine and they work perfectly. I can safely say, Look Ma, no leaks! I hope you found my how-to to be helpful and hopefully it will give you the confidence to tackle the job yourself.
Unfortunately, it didn't solve the cold stalling issue that I've been having but it did make my car much smoother and my gas mileage has gone up a bit. Hopefully you'll have better luck and it will solve your problems.
Please feel free to add any comments or suggestions!
Thanks for a wonderful community, it's been invaluable in maintaining my Maxima.
Changing my injectors became a necessity because my car has been cold stalling and my dealer tested my injectors and they're gummed up and running too lean.
I am by no means a mechanic so I am sure other more experienced members on the org will have techniques that are different or better than mine. These instructions are for removing the front three injectors. I'm fairly certain that the rear three is the same procedure except you have to remove the UIM (upper intake manifold) to get at them.
Here is the link to remove the UIM:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...im-w-pics.html
I'm detailed so I like to round up all the tools that I feel are necessary for the job at hand. I apologize for the grouped photos but the org only allows for I believe 5 photos per post, so I had to combine them.
Here is a list of tools I used to remove and install the new injectors.
L to R
Rubber Mallet: To gently tap upside down rubber-handled screwdriver to seat injector
Metal Hammer: Used to tap 5 inch metal-rod phillips driver bit on screws to loosen them.
LED Head Lamp: Invaluable when working on cars, gets the light exactly where you're looking.
CRC Electrical Cleaner: I used this because I had it laying around. It's used to spray out the injector receptacle because they can get gritty. You want a perfectly clean hole for the injector to seat in, otherwise it can cause leaks. You can use other cleaners, I like the electrical because it evaporates quickly.
Steel Phillips Drill Extension or Solid Phillips Screwdriver: I don't have a good solid Phillips-only screwdriver so I used the screw bit. It's used with the steel hammer to hit the screw to free it up. You only need one solid hit. Do not over do it!!
Hard Rubber-Handled Screwdriver: This one is a Craftsman Professional. I turn it upside down, rubber handle onto the center of the injector and hold it firmly and hit gently with a rubber mallet a few times to seat the injector. You should not hurt the injector with this method. Start with a light solid tap and progressively increase the hit until it seats. Take your time!
Screwdriver With Interchangeable Tips: Mine is a Gearwrench, with a ratcheting system, it rivals the SnapOn version. I got it at Sears for $30 for a 30 piece set. Comes with socket drivers and a slew of bits. It come with a T handle and also a straight handle. It's one of my favorite tools!
Clean Motor Oil: I just put some in my Mobile One oil cap, it's used to coat the O rings on the new injectors so they don't bind and tear when you insert them. Give the O rings a nice coating like you do on an oil filter.
Expandable Pliers: Used to grab onto the center square part of the injector, which are the sides that have the horizontal holes on the left and to the right. You will slightly mar the injector when you remove them but only very slightly, it will not effect the injector if you plan on reusing them. If you're **** you could buy those rubber protectors that go on the end of the pliers to protect whatever you're grabbing.
Grease: Use this on the the injector retaining screws so they are easier to remove later and don't corrode.
Rag: Used to cover the injector when you are extracting it. There is some fuel that slashes up and it will catch it and prevent it from potentially splashing into your face!
Rubber Nitrite Gloves: I know many of you guys are tough but these gloves will prevent gas from getting all over your hands, which is a pain to wash off and they will keep your hands clean and protect your hands from all the little knicks and scratches you get from working on your car. I swear by these gloves. You can pick up a box from your local Harbor Freight and Tool for like $10.00, money well spent.
Safety Glasses or Goggles: I don't have any in the photo but I was wearing them. Wear them whenever there is potential for flying liquid or debris, always protect your eyes. Safety first. Remember, blind men can't drive Maxima's!
Lots Of Patience: Take your time and don't rush. I only removed one injector at a time, didn't want to drop a screw or something into the hole. Take your time and you will have injectors that seal the first time.
Good luck and follow the instructions, you may improvise if you feel that you want to, your mileage may vary.
Let's get started!
1. Remove the #32 15 Amp fuel pump fuse located on the left just below your steering column. The door has a handle on it, just pull it and it will come off. There is a schematic of the fuse inside of the fuse cover.
2. After you remove the fuse crank the car 4 times in 3 second intervals to release the fuel pressure. You car may run for a second and die, afterward you're ready to begin removing the injectors.
3. Carefully remove the injector harnesses and move them to the side.
4. Take the solid screwdriver or a long metal screw bit and hold it firmly into the screw and give it a solid tap with the metal hammer. This will loosen up the screw so it will be easier to remove and lessen the chance that you will strip the phillips head. I was able to successfully reuse all of my screws with this method provided by the org.
After you hit the screw you should find a phillips screw bit for your interchangeable screwdriver that's the tightest and most secure for the phillips screw size. When you find the best fitting bit you will TIGHTEN the screw just a hair, just enough to hear it make a snap! sound, this will free the screw and from there you can start to loosen and remove the screw. Do this to both screws on the injector retainer. Keep track of both screws and injector retainer.
4. Take the expandable pliers and expand them all the way out, grab the the injector in the middle-square part, the part with the holes on the sides. Hold it firmly and cover the injector with the rag. (do not grab the injector by the electrical connector, you will break it as I found out through trial and error)
If the injector is not in the ideal position to grab you can turn the injector by firmly turning the electrical connector with your hand. With a firm twisting and pulling motion the injector should pop out.
As you can see from the pictures the old injector has quite a bit of debris on it. In my opinion I don't think the tips where the 4 tiny holes are really have a chance to get clogged like you see in the fuel injector cleaner commercials. I'm thinking they actually get gummed and clogged on the inside, which effect how they spray out of the holes. Just my observation.
The injectors I used were from Autozone, they were $78.99, with no core charge, they're made in the USA by GP Sorensen Part #800-1149N, It also says Stanard Motor Products on the box. They're very high quality, almost like an exact OEM part. The only difference I found were the blue collars by the lower O ring. They come with all O rings installed also the insulator that goes on top.
I had concerns because the O rings looked slightly thinner than stock, but I can attest they work perfectly and do not leak. I've driven over 100 Miles on them with no leaks. I image the reason why the original O rings look thicker is because they've been exposed to fuel for years which made them swell.
Here is a top photo of the injector receptacle. All of mine had a munch of black, sandy-like grit on the walls. I imagine it was the build up of debris that the injector screens were hold back.
5. Spray the injector receptacle with the cleaner, I used electrical cleaner. MAF cleaner will work great too. You don't want that sandy grit rubbing on your new O rings when they seat. I also notices a bunch of sand and grime stuck on the upper ring of the receptacle that I have circled in a picture.
I believe some of that works it's way loose and falls into the crevice of the injector and the O ring, and over time can cause the ring to fail. I first used a piece of paper towel to cover the hole so none of crap gets into the engine. Make the paper big enough so it doesn't fall in. I then used a toothpick to scrap the crud out. To safely remove the crud I used a shopvac to suck out the debris before removing the paper towl.
6. Liberally coat the O rings with clean motor oil. I thought this might mess up the injector but if you think about it, the fuel will wash away the oil quite easily.
7. Carefully seat the inject into the receptacle. Hold it firmly and give it a few twists. Maybe if you're He-man you might be able to seat it with your bare hands, but I doubt it. There are a few posts that say screwing down the injector retainer over the injector will seat it. I found that advice to be false, at least it didn't work for me. One person said hit it with combination wrench on the open side with a hammer but I thought that might send too much shock to the injector and damage it.
8. Take the rubber handled screwdriver or any hard rubber device (get your mind out of the gutter LOL) place the HANDLE squarely on the square part of the injector and with the rubber mallet give a light hit, progressively hitting it harder until it seats. You will know when it does, it will make a distinctive sound.
When you put the injector insulator and the retainer onto the injector you will notice there there is only about 1/16 of inch of space that is needed to screw the retainer down. That is why it would be nearly impossible to for the retainer to seat the injector. There is no need to reef on the screws. The retainer will touch the injector receptacle and from there, no matter how much you turn the screw it will not go down any further. It's just a retainer.
You can see the round dimple that was left on my screwdriver handle where it made contact with the injector.
9. Next you will put the rubber insulator on top of the injector. At first I was going to put the insulator onto the injector but it was harder to line up. The retainer has a 1/2 circle on one side as you can see in the photo. I decided to push the rubber side onto the retainer, it goes and stays on with firm squeeze. You can clearly see the round side and the flat side.
10. You're almost there. Next, make sure the injector is facing toward you in approximately the 4 O'clock position so it's in the middle of the retainer opening. Once you have it centered you can line up the screw holes.
11. Locate the two screw and dip the tips with dab of grease so they are easier to remove later and don't corrode. A little dab will do ya. Here is a close up of my screwdriver setup.
12. Finally, insert the screws and make sure they line up. I took my screwdriver rod out of the handle and turned the screws down evenly with my finger tips before tightening. Like I said, this is the best screwdriver set out there! It's got checkered grips on the middle of the rod so it's easy to finger turn.
You don't have to tight the retainer very much. It will touch the receptacle on the fuel rail very quickly. Just give it a nice 1/8 turn after the screws bottom out.
Here a picture of all three front injectors after replacement and all three of the old injectors. #1 I pulled out by the connector. I got lucky and didn't crack anything, #2 I destroyed the connector thinking I could pull it like #1, #3 I pulled by the square center.
13. Double check your work, make sure all your tools have been accounted for and that you haven't left anything in the engine compartment. Reinsert the 15 AMP fuse that you originally pulled from fuse terminal #32.
It will take several cranks to start the car because the fuel pressure has to build up and also because of the cleaner you sprayed into the injector hole. My car started after 3 long cranks. It was a little rough at first but then it purred like a kitten.
While the car is running check for any leaks or fuel smell by the injectors. If you've done everything correctly you shouldn't have any. Take the car for a spin around the block and recheck the injectors.
I've logged over 100 mines since I've replaced mine and they work perfectly. I can safely say, Look Ma, no leaks! I hope you found my how-to to be helpful and hopefully it will give you the confidence to tackle the job yourself.
Unfortunately, it didn't solve the cold stalling issue that I've been having but it did make my car much smoother and my gas mileage has gone up a bit. Hopefully you'll have better luck and it will solve your problems.
Please feel free to add any comments or suggestions!
Thanks for a wonderful community, it's been invaluable in maintaining my Maxima.
Last edited by madd_maxx; 02-15-2010 at 01:41 PM.
02-14-2010, 11:07 PM
#3
Thanks man, it took a while to do the write-up. I found so many write-ups on the org that helped me. So I figured I would give back.
That's what makes the org such a great community. Just good folks helping other folks that have a common interest in an awesome car!
That's what makes the org such a great community. Just good folks helping other folks that have a common interest in an awesome car!
02-14-2010, 11:32 PM
#5
Very nice Madd Maxx .... Great detail and pictures.
Welcome to the 'write up' club!
How's she running now? Notice any improvement in performance - well, hopefully other than not stalling. lol
Welcome to the 'write up' club!
How's she running now? Notice any improvement in performance - well, hopefully other than not stalling. lol
02-14-2010, 11:54 PM
#7
JtzMax,
She's running great, very smooth less effort on the gas to keep it going. Are the front thee injectors Bank1 or Bank2? At this point I'm very hesitant to do the rear injectors. The dealer said my cold stalling when in drive at only a stop is because of bad injectors. We'll I did half and the problem still exist. Why the hell does it only stall when cold!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?????
I jump back between tranny (TC) and maybe IAVC or maybe my TB is bad? I've clean both really well though.
WTF!!! Sorry for my ranting. I'm just very frustrated.
She's running great, very smooth less effort on the gas to keep it going. Are the front thee injectors Bank1 or Bank2? At this point I'm very hesitant to do the rear injectors. The dealer said my cold stalling when in drive at only a stop is because of bad injectors. We'll I did half and the problem still exist. Why the hell does it only stall when cold!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?????
I jump back between tranny (TC) and maybe IAVC or maybe my TB is bad? I've clean both really well though.
WTF!!! Sorry for my ranting. I'm just very frustrated.
02-15-2010, 12:53 AM
#8
Great pictures, don't mind me asking what camera are you using?
I've had stalling issues in the past and I ran an extra ground wire to my MAF sensor and that cured my stalling issues.
I've had stalling issues in the past and I ran an extra ground wire to my MAF sensor and that cured my stalling issues.
02-15-2010, 02:32 AM
#9
The front is bank 1 IIRC, someone please clarify this. (left is 1, right is 2) <-- I think! lol
Is the problem any better at all? Is it still happening as frquently? You could check the fuel pressure (regulator) with an inline gauge. Perhaps it is not getting enough ... Have you replaced the oxy sensors at all? This still seems odd. And no CEL still right? Any codes, did ya get a chance to run to AZ and have them hook up and see? You may have a ghost code or two that will not trip the CEL. This is NOT a knock sensor issue btw! lol That ghost code is very prone!
Makes me wonder if Nissan somehow built software into our ECUs to start having these random, very hard to track down and fix issues after some time. Say like maybe 11 - 15 years or so ???? LOL Not likely at all, but it does make me wonder.
Is the problem any better at all? Is it still happening as frquently? You could check the fuel pressure (regulator) with an inline gauge. Perhaps it is not getting enough ... Have you replaced the oxy sensors at all? This still seems odd. And no CEL still right? Any codes, did ya get a chance to run to AZ and have them hook up and see? You may have a ghost code or two that will not trip the CEL. This is NOT a knock sensor issue btw! lol That ghost code is very prone!
Makes me wonder if Nissan somehow built software into our ECUs to start having these random, very hard to track down and fix issues after some time. Say like maybe 11 - 15 years or so ???? LOL Not likely at all, but it does make me wonder.
02-15-2010, 05:19 AM
#10
Nick,
The camera I use is a Canon S500 http://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerSho.../dp/B0001G6U5W
It's only 5 MP and it's about 7yrs old. It used compact flash cards. This thing is a dinosaur in digital camera age. I put it in macro mode to shoot my close-ups. The battery is very old and doesn't last long maybe 50 shots but it seems to take decent photos. The LCD is about 1.5 inches wide and 1 inches high. I run some Photoshop actions/filters to clean up the pictures.
Can you explain how I would double ground the MAF?
JtzMax,
The reason why I ask which bank 1 is that the test results that the Nissan tech gave me says B1 isrunning 7% lean and bank 2 15% lean. Would you concur that it's probably not the injector or do you think it might be? Too bad the fronts weren't the worse ones. The FPR also crossed my mind too. My dad is good at testing vacuum stuff unlike me I should him help me check it. The only O2 sensor I've ever replaced is the one at the Y pipe, when it threw a code about 2 years ago. Still no codes ever and I've verified that my code light works. I did take it AZ and they found no codes.
What about that little plunger thing right below the main throttle pully? It pushes on the TB pulley by pushing out or in. I noticed it was the same position when cold and warm.
Could you be kind enough to PM your phone number man or could someone who is really knowledgeable PM your phone number so we can talk. I'm so tired physically and emotionally. On a side not I drove 5 hours total yesterday (on my honda accord) to downtown Chicago and back. Went to see my uncle who is hospitalized and on his last leg of liver cancer (no he was not a drinker) and now his kidneys are shutting down. Doc said he probably won't make it past this week.
On top of that I got a call from my coworker on the way home to let me know that a file server in the San Francisco office was having problems. I had to talk for an hour with someone who doesn't know anything about servers on the phone while driving to try to find what's wrong with the server. Turns out the mother board is dead. There's going to be an office of 25 folks trying to work this morning too.
I apologize for getting off top but it's been a crappy week. At this point I'd like to know what's going on with my car, because I have to decide how much time and money I want to put into it, it's turning into the law of diminishing returns at this point...
Thanks for listening. I'm trying to stay positive.
The camera I use is a Canon S500 http://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerSho.../dp/B0001G6U5W
It's only 5 MP and it's about 7yrs old. It used compact flash cards. This thing is a dinosaur in digital camera age. I put it in macro mode to shoot my close-ups. The battery is very old and doesn't last long maybe 50 shots but it seems to take decent photos. The LCD is about 1.5 inches wide and 1 inches high. I run some Photoshop actions/filters to clean up the pictures.
Can you explain how I would double ground the MAF?
JtzMax,
The reason why I ask which bank 1 is that the test results that the Nissan tech gave me says B1 isrunning 7% lean and bank 2 15% lean. Would you concur that it's probably not the injector or do you think it might be? Too bad the fronts weren't the worse ones. The FPR also crossed my mind too. My dad is good at testing vacuum stuff unlike me I should him help me check it. The only O2 sensor I've ever replaced is the one at the Y pipe, when it threw a code about 2 years ago. Still no codes ever and I've verified that my code light works. I did take it AZ and they found no codes.
What about that little plunger thing right below the main throttle pully? It pushes on the TB pulley by pushing out or in. I noticed it was the same position when cold and warm.
Could you be kind enough to PM your phone number man or could someone who is really knowledgeable PM your phone number so we can talk. I'm so tired physically and emotionally. On a side not I drove 5 hours total yesterday (on my honda accord) to downtown Chicago and back. Went to see my uncle who is hospitalized and on his last leg of liver cancer (no he was not a drinker) and now his kidneys are shutting down. Doc said he probably won't make it past this week.
On top of that I got a call from my coworker on the way home to let me know that a file server in the San Francisco office was having problems. I had to talk for an hour with someone who doesn't know anything about servers on the phone while driving to try to find what's wrong with the server. Turns out the mother board is dead. There's going to be an office of 25 folks trying to work this morning too.
I apologize for getting off top but it's been a crappy week. At this point I'd like to know what's going on with my car, because I have to decide how much time and money I want to put into it, it's turning into the law of diminishing returns at this point...
Thanks for listening. I'm trying to stay positive.
Last edited by madd_maxx; 02-15-2010 at 05:24 AM.
02-15-2010, 06:28 AM
#11
Great write up! Madd_Maxx, thanks for sharing. Sorry to hear about your uncle. Hang in there...
I have recently replaced my FPR. It was giving me trouble of starting, especially after the car had been sitting for hours. Though, mine was never stalling once started. I am not saying yours isn't the FPR. From what I could see, there isn't a clear cut for testing the FPR (or could be just the state of my old FPR, it kinda worked but leaking pressure, I guess). I had gone through cleaning the ground wire, check the Camshaft, Crank sensors. Finally, replaced the FPR. The good think is that the FPR isn't too expensive and very easy to replace. It has been a couple of winter months, and my max fires right up without any hesitation.
I have recently replaced my FPR. It was giving me trouble of starting, especially after the car had been sitting for hours. Though, mine was never stalling once started. I am not saying yours isn't the FPR. From what I could see, there isn't a clear cut for testing the FPR (or could be just the state of my old FPR, it kinda worked but leaking pressure, I guess). I had gone through cleaning the ground wire, check the Camshaft, Crank sensors. Finally, replaced the FPR. The good think is that the FPR isn't too expensive and very easy to replace. It has been a couple of winter months, and my max fires right up without any hesitation.
02-15-2010, 07:42 AM
#12
wxm,
I did use the OEM Nissan FPR or aftermarket? Thanks for your input man. The strange thing is the car only stalls when it's cold and only the moment the tranny makes the engagement feeling or if I'm stopped in drive when cold. Is this a tranny issue?
It doesn't feel like it's slipping at all. I have noticed lately that when I very slowly accelerate from a stop the shift from 1st to 2nd feels abrupt, kind of like a neutral drop but not physically stressful, very small neutral drop if you want to call it. It should be a smooth transitions with light acceleration no?
The tranny doesn't seem to do this if I push take off more aggressively from a stop. There is NO slippage and the trannys shifts seem tight and precise.
At this point I'm I don't know what to do, maybe prayer will fix my car LOL.
I did use the OEM Nissan FPR or aftermarket? Thanks for your input man. The strange thing is the car only stalls when it's cold and only the moment the tranny makes the engagement feeling or if I'm stopped in drive when cold. Is this a tranny issue?
It doesn't feel like it's slipping at all. I have noticed lately that when I very slowly accelerate from a stop the shift from 1st to 2nd feels abrupt, kind of like a neutral drop but not physically stressful, very small neutral drop if you want to call it. It should be a smooth transitions with light acceleration no?
The tranny doesn't seem to do this if I push take off more aggressively from a stop. There is NO slippage and the trannys shifts seem tight and precise.
At this point I'm I don't know what to do, maybe prayer will fix my car LOL.
02-15-2010, 08:35 AM
#15
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 263
So if he replaced the injectors in the front bank, that's bank 2.
02-15-2010, 08:41 AM
#16
ATTappman,
Thanks for chiming in, all the more reason why I think my cold stalling issue is not my injectors. Bank 2, which is the front next to the radiator were the ones running 115%, which is 15% too lean and I've replace all of them which should take care of most of the lean running. Only the rears close to the firewall are should be running 107% which is 7% lean. I gotta thinking changing the fronts would at least stop the stalling. I've never thrown any codes yet for misfire or anything.
I just wish I knew what it was? ;-((
Thanks for chiming in, all the more reason why I think my cold stalling issue is not my injectors. Bank 2, which is the front next to the radiator were the ones running 115%, which is 15% too lean and I've replace all of them which should take care of most of the lean running. Only the rears close to the firewall are should be running 107% which is 7% lean. I gotta thinking changing the fronts would at least stop the stalling. I've never thrown any codes yet for misfire or anything.
I just wish I knew what it was? ;-((
02-15-2010, 12:09 PM
#17
madd maxx,
Try this: Your MAF sensor connector has 3 wires one of them should be black ( ground)
Simply peel off some plastic insulation form it and add section of similar gauge wire and than connect it to good ground. Wrap the splice with electrical tape and you are done.
My car was stalling when fully warmed up at stop lights, the RPM's will fluctuate and IACV valve would try keeping it from stalling out but she would stall regardless. After weeks of trouble shooting, cleaning , measuring resistance of sensors somebody on the .org recommended running extra ground wire to my MAF and bammm !!! problem solved with 5 minute fix.
Try and see what happens, it won't hurt nothing
Try this: Your MAF sensor connector has 3 wires one of them should be black ( ground)
Simply peel off some plastic insulation form it and add section of similar gauge wire and than connect it to good ground. Wrap the splice with electrical tape and you are done.
My car was stalling when fully warmed up at stop lights, the RPM's will fluctuate and IACV valve would try keeping it from stalling out but she would stall regardless. After weeks of trouble shooting, cleaning , measuring resistance of sensors somebody on the .org recommended running extra ground wire to my MAF and bammm !!! problem solved with 5 minute fix.
Try and see what happens, it won't hurt nothing
02-15-2010, 12:29 PM
#18
Nick,
Thanks for the tip! I will try that tonight. Did you drill somewhere to ground or do you have a recommendation that's close and convenient to ground onto an existing screw or bolt in the engine bay?
Thanks for the tip! I will try that tonight. Did you drill somewhere to ground or do you have a recommendation that's close and convenient to ground onto an existing screw or bolt in the engine bay?
02-15-2010, 01:18 PM
#20
No, bank 1 is the rear bank closest to the firewall, and bank 2 is the front bank closest to the radiator. The diagram on page EC-11 of the 1997 FSM (and possibly other years) is wrong - they have the banks switched in that figure.
So if he replaced the injectors in the front bank, that's bank 2.
So if he replaced the injectors in the front bank, that's bank 2.
Madd Maxx -
PM sent, give me a call anytime. I think it could be MAF related. Do you have another to swap in by chance? Can you get another to swap in? After looking at that data sheet that Nissan gave you, it seems odd that both banks are running high and that the 3 injectors didn't 'help' that much in regard to the problem at hand. If you look at the data sheet, you see the A/F bank 1 / bank 2 ... A/F is air / fuel ratio .... so what all controlls that? I want to say the MAF does, so if it's faulty, perhaps it's causing the whole system to be off. Afterall, it does affect the entire intake system.
How freekin odd would it be if it was MAF related and it's not throwing a code?
02-15-2010, 02:36 PM
#21
I was having my car stall on cold starts this winter, didnt know for the world at what it was all I knew is I had to revv my engine a little bit to start it. Not sure if this is your problem but if you have ever checked your codes make sure the screw is all the way to the side its supposed to be at. I ended up going to check my codes again and realized my screw was not at the right position, put it back to normal and my cold start stalls were gone, just a heads up give it a try!
02-15-2010, 03:45 PM
#22
My MAF wasn't throwing any codes, but adding the extra ground wire completely solved my stalling problem.
I hope that this will help,
02-15-2010, 05:40 PM
#23
wxm,
I did use the OEM Nissan FPR or aftermarket? Thanks for your input man. The strange thing is the car only stalls when it's cold and only the moment the tranny makes the engagement feeling or if I'm stopped in drive when cold. Is this a tranny issue?
It doesn't feel like it's slipping at all. I have noticed lately that when I very slowly accelerate from a stop the shift from 1st to 2nd feels abrupt, kind of like a neutral drop but not physically stressful, very small neutral drop if you want to call it. It should be a smooth transitions with light acceleration no?
The tranny doesn't seem to do this if I push take off more aggressively from a stop. There is NO slippage and the trannys shifts seem tight and precise.
At this point I'm I don't know what to do, maybe prayer will fix my car LOL.
I did use the OEM Nissan FPR or aftermarket? Thanks for your input man. The strange thing is the car only stalls when it's cold and only the moment the tranny makes the engagement feeling or if I'm stopped in drive when cold. Is this a tranny issue?
It doesn't feel like it's slipping at all. I have noticed lately that when I very slowly accelerate from a stop the shift from 1st to 2nd feels abrupt, kind of like a neutral drop but not physically stressful, very small neutral drop if you want to call it. It should be a smooth transitions with light acceleration no?
The tranny doesn't seem to do this if I push take off more aggressively from a stop. There is NO slippage and the trannys shifts seem tight and precise.
At this point I'm I don't know what to do, maybe prayer will fix my car LOL.
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