So I read the OBD II codes and get both P0440 - EVAP (Small leak) and P0446 - EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Circuit. Looking at other threads with EVAP related problems and ruling out some of the simpler issues like the gas cap, I'm thinking that since I am getting both of these codes that the EVAP canister itself may need replacing.

I have never worked on this system before. For those who have done this, how difficult a job is it for a moderately skilled shade tree mechanic, how much is the part (anybody know the part number for a '96 GLE), and is is unwise to find a used one form a salvage car (presuming it's an expensive part)? Any help or advice appreciated.

 

A little help here?

 

I'm not sure, but what i see in FSM leads me to believe its the valve or the line, not the cannister. I'd check these first, it may even be "foreign matter" in the valve ! Look in FSM to find R&R for these.

 

ok,so im a training auto tech..and i have the exact same problem. i did some research on AllData at school..but my instructor told me on friday sometimes the lines get clogged. on monday..ill do this:

take the hose goin to the canister under the hood,blow compressed air through it to clean it out.

lift the car if possible and take the two bigger lines from the evap canister..and clean those also.

if anything changes..ill post back and let u know,i will also post two diagrams i have 2moro.

 

I believe I can add some insight as well due to the fact I fixed this issue 2 years ago hear is a trick that'll help you avoid purchasing a new evap and charcoal canister.

As mentioned by earlier by the above poster remove the hose going to the evap canister spray penetrating oil liberally replace the the hose back and let sit overnight eventually in about 3 to 4 days the valve will actuate and work, what's happened is that the valve within unit has frozen due to moisture and rust the penetrating oil will alleviate this issue and you will be back in busines

 

EVAP is tough to diagnos IMO...Could be clogged lines, faulty equpiment, or shorted wires. It sucks. On any car, not jus the maxi.

Since the CEL is on, u have a clue where to start. Make sure the connector for the EVAP cotrol valve is functioning. Multimeter is yur friend here. Check the FSM to actually test the valve. Maybe take it apart, clean, and replace. Hopefully that takes care of issue. If not, need to have the EVAP system pressure tested. 90 bucks at dealer.

 

ok, I am sorry but after searching and reading I still need to ask
i got a 0903 code- Canister vent control valve...
What do I need to check/do for that. is it the valve situated behind the driver's rear wheel? can I try to clean it? if so a simple how-to would help

Thank you for the input and Sorry if I missed somethings searching for it,

 

I am getting below code one of which is EVAP

P0150
P0325
P0440
P0446
P0174

is their chance any of this will cut engine at stop light while applying brakes? I am having this issue since two week, 4 out of 10 time engine dies coming to stop or idle, shifting to Neutral helps lil ( automatic ) also rpm bumps typically during that...car get start immediately after this...but rpm bumps wildly for 5 seconds...any thoughts it it has any relation to EVAP?

 

Do the MAF, TB, IACV as per how to. Rplace KS. U may have to clean EGR too. throw some chevron techron in the tank

 

I do have done MAF and TB recently, will have to replace KS and clean IACV as well as EGR

 

hey, all! do you guys know the part number for the oem 1997 infiniti i30 gas cap? (i searched, but couldn't find it). thank you!

 

I was lucky.. I sprayed it down with wd40 and got the plunger which was stuck, loose enough to where i pressed down on it with a Flathead and it pops back up on its own! When i pulled it from the car it was "stuck".. Took lots of WD40 and many attempts at pressing and pulling it up before it got free. Put it back and reset Cel and so far so good...

I had 0304 (knock sensor), 0705 Evap Leak, 0215 "Something Evap related" I forgot... Maybe the valve.

Going for a smog in couple days .. Maybe tomorrow!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHbZwil1lMo


Hope that helps.. Maybe ill add a video of the location and removal/install.. Its fairly simple.

 

Im having the same issue hope fully this will help me out.. Thanks

 

Great news.. After cleaning and re-installing the Evap vent control valve i reset the Cel and drove it about 50 miles and it did not return. In fact this afternoon i got my smog done and I passed!!

Actually in the last week i did brakes, plugs, pcv, fuel and air filter too.. but it was the valve that was triggering the cel..

Ive yet to go back and check to see if the knock sensor code is still there but im pleased the cel light is off!

Ive got a knock sensor coming in the mail so if the code is there ill be doing that next.




EDIT: The knock sensor code was still there but i just replaced it and all is well!

 

You sure are lucky. I tried lubricating my valve several times over a week but it still wouldn't work. I replaced that $88 part yesterday.

 

Yeah it was about 90 bucks at my local parts store.. and you're right, I was lucky!! I sprayed it down good with WD40 and let it sit for 15 minutes at a time but after the 15-20 minutes i repeatedly tried to push down and up on the plunger!

Actually i didn't realize the plunger would pop up the way it did and at first i was just pressing down on it with a flat-head. Then at some point i looked in the hole and saw that the plunger had moved upwards a tad bit ..

Then i just leveraged the flat-head below the plunger and pushed it to the top and then back down. It would not go up and down by itself and i had to be generous with the WD40 but eventually it started moving slowly by itself and it was just a matter of time repeating the whole process. Looking in the other hole on the valve i could see the rod was rusted but i just gave it a shot ..

Took about 2 hours of soaking and using the flat-head screwdriver to get get it to work! I don't think i would have lasted a week like you did..

 

hey, whiteshadow, have you fixed your issue? i've got the same codes: p0440 and p0446.
i'm thinking it's the vent valve and the cap. any other suggestions?

 

hey is this the little solenoid in the canister thats in the rear of the car on the driver side?

 

yeah, man. it's attached to it by 2 bolts.

 

so i gotta remove the 2 bolts, saturate it in wd40 or pb blaster.
mess with the plunger a bit and i'm good to go?

also are they literally bolts or screws that need a phillips?

 

soak the bolts first you could try to use the screwdriver as well.

 

Sorry to not respond, I'm not very active on this forum because I hardly ever drive the Maxima anymore.

No I haven't tried anything yet because drivability hasn't been affected and right now I only take the Max out about once a month just to keep it from sitting dormant. I have time this week and will probably try the fixes mentioned here. Thanks to all the helpful members who've posted info to help. Kudos.

 

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I replaced my evap canister 4 years ago and never got a check engine light again. Nissan dealer , got the canister with the sensor, just bolt it on and reattach it to, drivers side rear behind the back tire. Look under and you will see a black box like a shoe box size. Replace that, reset the check engine lights, should be good to go.

If the bolts or clips break to mount the canister, like mine did. Jus use zip ties to hold it in place. Good luck

 

Does anyone have any pictures as to where the "plunger" and the other associated parts are located, and what hoses are involved? IIRC the evap unit is under the drivers side rear tire area? But I am not sure where the specific plunger is, and such.

Thanks,
Zack

 

the "plunger" is inside the vent valve itself. you can see it thru one of the openings.

 

Yup, here is a video of the location of the Canister Vent Control Valve and steps to remove ...

1) remove 2 10mm bolts
2) remove 1 hose
3) remove 1 electrical connector

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrkTdxvjIc8


Then in this video you can see not only where the plunger is but where i sprayed the WD40 and how i got the plunger to move again ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHbZwil1lMo


After the above my Evap problems vanished and so did my check engine light!! Passed smog with no problems!


Anyhow Hope that helped,
good luck!

 

This helped,

I just serviced plunger as per direction, it was literally stuck.... reset CEL, hope will not get those codes back....

 

this was very helpful to me as well ^^^

i took mine out and sprayed down with wd40 in the places explained in the video for a few hours, and played with it with a screw driver. eventually i got it to move, and now it moves up and down if i push it, but not at all by itself. does anyone know how much a new one would cost?

 

Hey! Glad my vid helped you guys out there..

A new one is upwards of a hundred dollars.. i cant recall the exact amount! But if you got it to move but not by itself you haven't used enough wd40..

let it soak for a few hours and you have to exercise it up and down with the screw driver a lot .. basiclly there is rust on the sides of the metal piece inside that goes up and down and thats whats stopping it from moving up and down by itself!

its been a couple months since i did this and i passed smog and the CEL light stayed off for a couple months but my CEL just came back on a few days ago so we will see if its this thing again! Ill let you guys know..

I don't have to pass smog for another two years tho so if its that i don't have any reason to fix it really.. but we will see, it might be a code for something else!

 

just fixed this problem yesterday acctually I had the same codes as origional poster...evap leak and plunger problem basically so i replaces the map sensor was broke..(hose was not on the sensor cuz the plastic outlet that the hose goes onto was broke of...so not good connection)..so i replaced that and did the wd40 trick to the plunger attached to the charcoal canister behind the drivers rear tire and when it became like a spring, i put it back on....
today i checked the codes and only the knock sensor codes were there..(pre-existing) so im thinking its fixed for now...will keep an eye on it

 

yea thanks bud, also i used carb cleaner then maf cleaner afterward to blow all the **** out!! ill check back tomorrow let you guys know if it worked

nissan egr system is retarded ive replaced egr valve and egr pipe solenoids green and black all solonoids have continuity and yet im still getting circuit malfunctuion -- i hope this fixes it because im down to wiring and canister after this .

Also before you go and get burned by nissan dealers check a boneyard and get some sensors if you can read a multimeter i got mine for 10 bucks a peice saved 200 dollars.

 

nah still getting 8 and 7 circuit garbage however now im also getting code 5 and 3 for right oxygen sensor not sure if this has anything to do with the other code or not but this ****s getting old!! i let the car sit for 2 years and the whole thing went to hell!

 

After the wd40 trick my stayed working!!! Infact its been quite some time since i did it and have since sold that maxima and got another. The owner of my previous max has had no problems with the Cel!

Knock out your knock sensor lol and harness and youre good to go!!