Pffff, We ARE professionals... well I'm not but he is according to his Lincoln Technical Institute certification. I just experiment on peoples cars until I learn properly to work on mine j/k btw

 

i would take it to a professional but now-a-days they'll say anything to get a few bucks from ya.

this morning it was shifting hard in all gears. then it stop shifting hard then it did the "auto neutral" crap again.
but only twice then it was fine after wards.

 

Lol so true man. After a couple of months on the site i kno so much now its incredible. I do anythin on the car that doesnt require raising the vehicle. Not because i dont feel comfortable doin it....i jus dont have a 2 ton jack or jack stands and i hate using the factory jack

 

Im not sayin have them fix it. Im jus saying get a second opinion since none of us are there to help diagnos. Let them diagnos and then u fix urself

 

yea i guess that would work.
ive asked a member here he said on one car he had it would act up showing signs of a bad trans but he finds mine weird, but not going out.

 

Try the Auto RX trans. cleaning routine. It workerd on my 2000 Lexus
RX300 which is prone to tranny failure. It was shifting hard from 1st to 2nd, did the trans cleaning routine, then drained and refilled via the oil cooling hose and the hard shifting went away. So it worth a try.
good luck...david.

 

thanks for the input. i was actually going to try seafoam trans tune.
i used this when i had my acura legend.

4th gear/reverse went out all of a sudden (then again i beat the **** out of the car so i was'nt mad)
i poured the bottle in then reverse/4th worked.
lasted for about 3 weeks.
got another can. did a drain and refill. bam reverse/4th worked again.

so which you think the trans rx or seafoam transtune?

 

My 96' SE gas guage does the same thing. In the last 8months of owning it, I've run it out of gas once(didnt have time or money to put in the full amount, wish I had though so I could see how many gallons it took) and almost a second time(it hesitated when I pressed the gas hard)--Well I was 7 miles from a gas station and the hestitation already started, so I had my brother fetch some darn gas just to make sure I'd make it.

So when the light came on the next time, meaning I was 10miles or so from being dead in the water... I filled her all the way up and could only put in 15.5 gallons, WTF? It holds 18.5!

I am just super careful with running low, I know this sucker will leave me stranded! I barely get 20mpg, as I can get about 300miles out of a tank, about 14 or 15 gallons to fill up or so... which sucks b/c now I'm broke and traded in my altima for the max. The 2.4 altima I-4 would go 330 on a tank of gas requiring 13.5 to fill it up. Oh well that car blew, and the tranny was harsh! I love my 96SE-5MT.

 

Last time I had a "Professional" at AAMCO give me a "professional" opinion he kept trying to slam it into 1st gear while doing like 15 MPH... I was in the car like "DUDE, YOU CANT DO THAT" He's like, yea you can my 93 camry can do it. ****in ignorant piece of **** he was

 

I only had experience with auto rx...

 

O AAmCO are crooks. They wanted to charge my mom 2500 bucks to replace the tranny for a 98 plymouth voyager.

 

technically you can. but it's not professional. i wouldn't had done that.
today it was okay.
i just find it weird that when cold or hot the trans operate fine.
when it does start acting up i just baby the car. then once it's fine.
back to normal driving.

 

okay, maybe there some hope after all for this transmission.
today i decided to disconnect the pressure resistor (yea i know big no no).
and the trans was fine. well minus the hard shifting.
but there was no "auto neutral" when warm of fully hot or anything.
so could it be the pressure solenoid?

 

Interesting. I replaced all the solenoids following the FSB and it didn't help. Your transmission is doing what mine is doing. When you drive off from a stop you have to gently touch the gas to let it slowly rev up so that it doesn't slam into gear.

 

yea. and this happens like 10minutes after the engine is fully warm.
and it last for about a minute or two.
then it's as if nothing has happened.

but when i had the drop resistor disconnected, it never did it at all.

quickywd01 did you even replaced the line pressure solenoid?

 

no has any further suggestions?

 

5 speed swap!!

 

Why do people let their tanks run so low in the first place

I always just get gas when I have a quarter tank left..always.

No offence to anyone or anything I've just always found it funny that so many people wait til they absolutely have too to fill up.

 

well some of us may have to wait till they get paid in order to fill up.
i know every time i do come across a lil bit of money it goes into my tank.

FOR THE LAST TIME I'M NOT DOING A 5-SPEED SWAP!!!

 

okay an update:
i was helping out another "orger" to check his tcu codes. he could'nt get into the code so i decided to try it on my car.
i had went somewhere and i think i caught it right before it was about to act up.

LO AND ****IN BEHOLD!!! 2 codes.
line pressure solenoid shorted or open.
throttle position sensor open or shorted.

drove till it was acting normal.
checked codes...no codes.
so i'll be hitting the junkyard to get some things. keep ya finger's crossed for me.

 

and came across this thread when i typed in line pressure solenoid:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...oid-valve.html

but this is what raised my eyebrow:

I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE Automatic:

My check engine light came on after some pretty sporatic hard shifting through all gears. Somtimes the shifting is just fine, at other times it's like a bronco. At any rate, I checked the ECU code and got code 1205 "Line Pressure Solenoid Valve." I checked the O/D diagnosis code and got the same thing.

turns out this guys problem was his pressure resistor.

 

question: is it hard to take off the valve body?
i mean no check ***** or springs or anything like that wont pop off will it?
cause i seen a link on the revised shift solenoids and they said it involves removing the trans valve body.

 

anyone please?

 

i changed the fluid. the first time i used auto-zone fluid. drove for a bit. then drove for a bit. then drained and refilled with valvoline maxlife. i plan on gettin some more this week.

well i don't think it matters the temperature now. Now when you floor it, it'll act up.
i used a different pressure resistor.
it's all good except it shifts a little too hard for me. this is still an odd problem that 'im needing help with.

 

bump

 

so yesterday the o/d light was flashing.
checked the codes.
got one for the throttle position sensor and line pressure solenoid.

checked them out.
i was'nt able to get a reading at all from the tranny harness or tps sensor.
only reading i did get was the hard and soft switch.

now the FSM said i could check the LPS with it in the transmission. it also said i can check it out of the transmission.

i did'nt have time to remove it from the valve body.

so i hooked everything back up. started her up warm up.
while running i disconnected the tps sensor and the idle drop to 500rpms.
so i shut the car off and decided to check for a reading again.
and this time i got:

1.2ohms fully closed-3.5ohms fully opened.

any help is appreciated

 

mine does the same thing I'm going to change the tps today and see if that helps. I'm not throwing any codes but from a stop it will slam into first HARD!! then it seems to shift fine! if I put it in 1st or 2nd then it doesn't slam into gear. So if you find out what is wrong or if the TPS fixes it I'll let you know


update: first of all no one in this town has a TPS for our cars everyone has to "order them" and the price ranges from $118 to $53. So instead of replacing today I was trouble shooting mine and this is what I got. Checking the voltage at pin 1...I got 0 volts on the tps pin #1! However I got a little over 5 volt at the harness that plugs into pin #1 so I'm assuming the 5 volts at the harness is correct. I then check pins 2 and 3 for ohms. I got 750 closed and 3500 WOT(so we are seeing similar readings). We should be seeing 500 and 4000. I know I have some adjustment does anyone think the adjustment would fix that? I'm worried If I adjust it up to see 4000 @ wot then I would see 1250 when closed and If I adjusted it down to 500 closed then I would only see 3250 at WOT. I'm not seeing any codes.

Is this inline with what I should see or does it need to be replaced?? I hoping it's going bad and thats what is causing the tranny problems

 

not the TPS ....however when the key is on(not running) and I open up the throttle I can hear a buzzing sound coming from transmission??? and the sound changes with the throttle opening-----WTF is that normal??

 

^^that i do not know, bout the buzzing, but i'll check into that tomorrow.
adjusting the tps won't sole that problem.
adjusting the tps is for the hard and soft switch for the tcu and somewhat the ecu.
i know that if you turn it a certain point the rpms will jump up to about 1200. once they jump up you should back down.


wait? you have a supercharger on your car...and it's an auto?
i applaud you homey. not many people will stick up for the auto's when it comes to modifying them.

 

Yeah well it's been good enough until this. there are times I wish it was a stick (this is the first car I had ever owned that was an auto) and there are times I'm glad its an auto but with the supercharger I dont "need" the stick to be fast. Besides the fastest real drag car are all Autos because a human just can't shift as fast as that computer.

 

Pfff, I shift faster than computers

 

and yea with the shift kit it'll be even quicker.
and your located in Tennessee too.
i'ma have too look you up while i'm down there visiting family.

okay so this morning i went out there to make sure i was'nt crazy.
and lo and behold.
the TPS was giving me the same reading.
nothing at first then something later.
also i heard that buzzing you were talking about.
the buzzing noise was audible. then once i got to a certain point.
you could barely hear it.
it was like a two mode thing...hmm

 

yeah it sounds like it's coming from the connector on top of the tranny...it's really loud when you first open the butterfly then it starts to fade

 

it sounds to me like your having a line pressure problem. it could be a governer valve or maybe your low on fluid (probably not he case you seem to check it frequntly) the line pressure is the highest in first and reverse because you have to move 3000 pounds of car. i hate to say it but i think you need a trans. i had the same problem with mine. i had to replace the trans due to a destroyed tourengton bearing. my magnets looked like furry little animals. check the governor valve first. as for the wierd hunting problem im on my second trans and i have the same problem im shootin for the tps.

 

ok, i hope i didnt repeat anything i just now realized there was two pages D'OH!!

 

check your tps for water or moisture. that's what mine problem was when it had hard shifting. and the buzzing noise is normal. just my .02

 

i like furry little animals, we own a shih tzu because of that

 

i put a junkyard tranny in my max with 177k miles it was so damn clean inside and shifts really smooth.

but yes in the morning mine has a THUD if i accelerate kinda fast it will bang 2nd gear but 3 and 4th are smooth no matter what. that hard 2nd gear shift goes away within 10 mins of driving.

also i know if im cruising at around 35 or 37mph sometimes the transmission shifts to 4th then back down to 3rd over and over so i speed up to 40mph then it stays in 4th


id say in the morning take it real easy when its switching gear. take off and around 2300rpm let off the gas and let it go to 2nd gear by itself then give it gas and do same for all gears untill its warmed up.

i doubt fluid will help it but it may if u use full synthetic or something good.

i used 11 quarts of coast dest merc cost a lot of money still at $3.99 a quart.

 

first off i like to thank you guys for giving me VALUABLE info on this issue.

i dont know if i need a new tranny this is why:
i checked the voltage part of the tps.
i thought the volt were supposed to start of small then get larger as you open the throttle more.

fully closed w/ cold engine 4.5 volts. fully opened w/ cold engine .5volts.
fully closed w/ warm engine 4.5 volts. fully opened w/ hot engine 1volt.

also the power going into the tps was 5.5volts when the engine was cold. once fully warmed up it was 4.9volts.

and you know what after i did all of that started her up went to put it in drive...no go.
same for reverse. no go by itself.

buttonhook you said your buzzing noise was loud.
well you can barely hear mine.
i think that's the LPS.

also if i needed i trans would'nt this problem happen at all temperatures?

i can drive the car floor it with the tranny cold (hate revving a cold engine)or fully warmed up. it's the in between thing that gets me.

 

Mine works perfect when cold...it only acts up once it starts to warm up. also mine could be louder because of the shift kit ?????