So, I just got a call from Firestone. They are installing four new WideOvals, which is my current favorite tire.

I had them do an alignment as well, cause I just got done replacing EVERYTHING up front (bearings, CVs, control arms, sway bar bushings, tire rods, ball joints, brakes, rotors, blah blah blah).

Anyway, they called to say I needed camber bolts - and since I lowered this car 6 years ago, my recollection on camber bolts was pretty vague. Well, I don't like anybody else touching my car - so I told him I'd call him back - and I ran (clicked) over here to the Maxima.org forums and started searching for camber bolts.

I quickly learned through a quick perusal that it was relatively easy to install them and you could get them relatively cheap as well (through group buys).

Back on the phone I went... asked how much his camber bolts were (60 dollars total + 100 dollars in labor). Told him I would just do it myself and have it aligned afterward.

His response was that installing the camber bolts myself "...could throw everything so far off it wouldn't be funny...".

So, my question is: Will it?

I know it isn't off that damned much anyway - I waited a bit long on these tires and they were uneven - but over that much mileage - it wasn't by much. I figured I could just order some camber bolts and install them the next time I am in there screwing with something and then get an alignment.

I guess my other question would be: After 6 years and probably a few alignments in there somewhere - why do I need camber bolts all of a sudden? I'll get the numbers when I get there to see how far off it is - but could it be that I just need to loosen the two bolts and pull the top of the hub out and re-tighten them - as I read in some of my search results? Or are my springs sagging a bit much nowadays and I just need to replace those?

Thanks for any and all help...

 

I went to Firestone once because I had a flat tire. Dropped of my truck and picked it up the next day with fresh rubber on the left rear (I was a poor college student). Two days later turn right into the Lowe's parking lot and THUD my rear left drum is rolling on the ground. I pull over to the side of the road, now with only three wheels still attached, and look the the left out of my windows to watch my tire roll on by. Moral of the story: I'll never set foot inside another Firestone again.

My advice to you is to find another shop.

 

I see what you're saying - but I am unbelievably **** retentive.

While I have not had it happen to me before (knock on wood) - I have had friends lose wheels on the interstate after getting new tires.

As a result - I re-torque my own wheels for several days after messing with my wheels. It is not something I wish to experience.

 

Haha camber should only be like 1 degree and camber bolts basically lets you adjust things that the stock parts cannot physically adjust.

As for adjustment, you can basically do a 4-wheel alignment with some hand tools and a few fancy measuring tools and 4 jacks to get the car completely off the ground. But the thing is that it is riskier, because the machine will compensate for runout on your tires and rims, while we cannot because those things are impossible to see with the naked eye. But if you just want to do a basic alignment to the centerline of your car then it is possible to do it yourself

And I just recently learned how to use a fancy Hunter alignment machine and the adjustments are a piece of cake, just loosen some bolts and wiggle the wheel around until it is in spec then tighten the bolt, the computer is basically a over glorified $10,000 leveling ruler hahah

 

OH! And if you are going to install camber bolts yourself make sure to take a look at this!

http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=6365

It seems like there is quite some risk to having these things, like it failing under load if installed wrong and such.

 

The driver's side is 1.0° and the passenger side is 1.2°

The 1.0° is within spec - but just barely.

 

I have looked at camber bolts (haven't used them) but all the ones I've seen are much beefer than what was shown in the link. Instead of just one little cam at the one end, the ones I've seen had the entire length as a cam.

Installing them would be easy. Take one bolt out of the strut mount and install the camber bolt, then tighten it down. Then do the other one and take it in for alignment.

And I don't like Firestone stores. I took my car (a 3rd gen Max at the time) to one by my store for an emissions check. They passed the car but driving it home, my car was swaying riding like mush. When I got home, I checked the tire pressure and all 4 tires were at 15 lbs. I keep my tires at 30 and check them regularly. Next year, same deal, same results. I did not have Firestone or Bridgestone tires and I wonder about that. I don't go there any more.

 

If you didn't do that when you put everything back together, then yes that will help your camber issue.

It will throw toe off once you do that so you'll need another alignment to set the front toe.

 

Seems like an easy fix would be to make a slot for the upper knuckle holes to use the factory bolt on the front. A 0.1 inch slot would be 0.5 degress adjustmust. How hard is it to grind that out? The camber bolt only have 60% of the strength of the factory bolt. SP has installation on the top knuckle bolt. Toyota uses a larger hole to allow for camber adjustment. For the rear is there any slack for the lateral link? If so, there might be some adjust possible without resorting to a adjustable lateral link for $70 plus 1 hour of labor.

 

i have a question, the last 4 times i went in for an alignment i only had the rear checked but not aligned. they said that the rear only drags anyway and does'nt wear out tires because there's no adjustable camber, toe in or out. my front tires are wearing evenly but alot faster than the rears. i have'nt rotated them since i put them on last june. i also was told that my links looked worn. will worn links and alignment wear out the tires faster? thanks>>>

 

bad alignment will but i dont think the end links would. but the maxima is fwd so it's only natural that the front tires wear faster, plus all the extra forces exerted on the front as well. that's why you gotta rotate!

also, i lowered my car recently, had it aligned and did not need camber bolts. i'm on an eibach drop though, so its about 1.5" drop, not much.
however, i don't think messing with the strut bolts will affect toe since you don't touch anything on the tie rod. only if the height changes will toe need to be adjusted, say if you add lowering springs.

 

If they are wearing even, no need for re-alignment. The front wears out about 20% to 35% faster than the rear due to FWD and turning. More turning faster front wearing. Worn links can cause faster wear out due to many small turning. The links should be tested with wheel down on the ground and measure the play on the steering wheel. Don't remember spec, but ~1 inch o the steering wheel. All cars will have loose steering links with no weigh on the wheels. With not weight on the wheels, there should be no noticable play in and out (bearing play) and some noticalbe steering twist is ok .

Rotate your tires to even them out. This takes care of front to rear wear but not uneven wear across the theard of a tire.

 

Ive got camber bolts on my car from Cattman. I had them installed by a local shop when I got my drop done. You can definitely tell. My front wheels are perfect alignment, my rear are angled out a tad bit b/c they have no bolts on them. They're worth it. Ive dealt with firestone and they are nothing but scam artists, they rip off people. They wanted 700 dollars to change my F&cking knock sensor. Got it done by a local shop for 120...

 

HUNH???? they really cant think someone would pay that for a sensor, do they??? did you tell them to fawk off and walk out i hope??

 

My alignment guy got my camber within spec. This is with the Tokico Illumina + Tein Stech and the 2.25" drop. No camber bolts needed. Then again, the guy was sort of a suspension genius.

I have a set of eibach camber bolts which were about $20 shipped, they work okay but its better to not use them. If you install them yourself, do it before you get an alignment. If your suspension isn't rusty at all it will take you about 20 minutes.

The only real problem with a lowered setup is your rear toe will be off and it is unadjustable. You can fix it a bit by playing with the rear beam bushing.

Don't even bother having someone mess with your rear, they will just bill you for more work hours but there is nothing they can realistically do to align your rears at your average shop.

 

I looked at them and told them I already bought a replacement for 20 bucks and they said they have to buy OEM, I said it was and they said they cant use customer supplied parts....

 

good ol fukstone, never liked them. never will, rip off artists to the max...

 

Thought that I might have been the exception of getting poor service at Firestone. Said my out outter tie end were seized. Another shop said easy turning. Turned out lock nut was tie to the hard to turn against the inner tie . Mech said he almost threw his arm out trying -- he said you try and gave an ~ 8 inch plier to me. Asked for a larger wrench, but claimed they didn't have one. I'm very far from a muscle man, but I could turn with the 8 inch plier. Then they made no adjustment from the original measurements.

On my Toyota, Firestone (Bristol, Santa Ana Firestone) said no camber adjustment, but manual says there is. Also claiming that it's seized. Will test myself later. Always trying to upsale with fuel injector flushing, changing transmission fluid when it clean, changing to inferior grade antifreeze. If not for the lifetime alignment, I would not go back. Also had burned out light, then it was good. Don't like the replacing good OEM parts with cheap aftermarket parts.

 

I didn't know they used OEM. What part did you buy for $30?

 

I know they use Moog for most of their replacement parts.

 

They may not of said OEM, (I just wrote that cuz it was easier) they said something like they only use the parts they supply. Probably not OEM parts. Actually, I was at autozone one day and overheard a delivery order that was for a firestone location... haha

I bought some OEM spec KS on ebay. But I think its cracked again....

 

The $700 was for the book time on the knock sensor. You do know where that sensor is right? In the valley underneath the intake manifold. They quoted you labor for the R&R on everything associated with that job. I used to sell the knock sensors all the time when I worked for Nissan. Got good with it and with the right tools, only takes 20 minutes.

 

A shot of Krol a day before working on the sensor will loosen the sensor so it moves like a hot knife through butter. Just don't use silicone lub.

 

Yes I know where it is and how hard it is to change. 700 dollars was quoted with the part that i think they wanted 200 for.

 

Depending on the cost and they're mark-up grid, it could be entirely possible for that part to be $700. Most shops only get list price less 20%. So even though you paid ~$200 for the part, they paid ~$160 and then they still had to mark it up from there. If they don't mark it up, where's they're profit? That's why businesses are in business, right? To make a profit?