So it wasn't my coil packs..
 

I searched and tried the method of pulling each coil plugs out one by one to see if there is no shuddering. I got shuddering for every coil I pulled out. I'm assuming that means all my coils are functional. The reason I did that is because I get a lot of hesitation and RPM drops when I'm merging on to a high way. When I am accelerating it won't go much faster. It hits around 3K then it drops. Any ideas on what is wrong? I cleaned the MAF sensor a week ago. To see if that would help, it did not. No CEL on currently or when I scanned my ECU. I'm thinking it could be a faulty MAF, but I could be wrong.

Possible MAF, swap on a friends MAF to rule it out.

None of my friends own a Maxima =(. Closes person with a Nissan is my Sisters 04 FX45. I doubt that would work though.

I would not rule out the coil packs. I suspect mine are failing under load. They may function fine at idle, but when a load is placed on the engine, they may behave differently.

You don't have to swap it to check it. Just read the voltages off of like like is described in the FSM.

I actually pulled the MAF plug while the car was on and scanned my ECU and it did throw a code for that. Does that mean the MAF is working or no?

no, that just means ur ECU detected that it was disconnected . check if the voltage is in specs or change mafs.

+1 on replacing maf/checking maf.

Mine acted up and no codes were popping up. The only code I ever got was a IAT sensor but after the maf was swapped out it behaves perfectly.

Also, clean TB thoroughly with a tooth brush. MAF cleaner does very little in my opinion though

When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter?

or fuel pump

Never replaced fuel filter or pump. Original owner kept ever maintenance in a Excel file.

Is there anywhere else in the FSM that shows or explains how to test the coils besides EC-421. If you could list the section and page.

Cleaned out the throttle body the other day. Man was it dirty, The inside was caked up inside with so much dirt/debris. It helped with my problem a little bit. But the sluggish acceleration is still there. I've been scanning my ECU and hoping for something to pop up to give me an idea.

I would love to have a copy of the layout they used... if possible to siath@live.com

OP - did you work out the solution to your hesitation - as I've seen several threads about this issue, esp. in 'later' 4th Gen ...

Hey I'll send you the excel file when I get home from the office. But I have not found a solution. Cleaning the TB did make a difference in acceleration though.

Questions could it be a slipping clutch?? It's hard for me to accelerate. The RPMS would climb high then drop, but i barely gain any speed.

You seem to be having a slipping clutch, while the OP does not.

wrap each coil pack's boot with electric tape, then drive car as you normally do and see if notice any difference. I was able to determine my problem with a defective coil pack by performing this trick.

I have never heard of this trick and exactly what would this show us?

Never hrd of this .... . I guess the point is to hold the coil together with tape to determine which is broken ??? :scratch:

Mistertones,

It sound like u got a slipping clutch. If the RPMs jump high when u switch gears then finally catch, then clutch is worn.

I suggest fuel filter and seafoam in the brake booster line in addition to the coilpack voltage test and MAF test.

Here is my file if you want it:

http://www.ilyakol.com/Maxima/Maxima%20Maintenance.xls

That is what I feared. A slipping clutch :(. Do you know the typical cost to replace a clutch? I've googled around people say it could cost from 400-2800.

Ok so I just checked my clutch fluid, and it was wayy below the min line. What does that mean?

It means top it up. If it ain't leaking, you got a worn friction disk. Changing the clutch is something you can do yourself. The hardest part is convincing yourself that you can do it.

I've read around, So I use DOT 3 brake fluid to top it off?

So I added more more fluid still drives like crap. I'm picking up a Saschs clutch tomorrow and getting it replaced for 300 bucks.

If it is leaking fluid then u have either a a torn hose or a faulty slave and master cylinder. Since the car is old, u shd replace all three. Do it once, do it right

I got this Exedy Clutch today. It looks pretty decent. My friend hooked me up for 90 bucks.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5297225_n.jpg
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...9_891586_n.jpg
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs504...._1233262_n.jpg

So I finally got the car back today. MAN it is a big difference with the clutch. The car goes so much faster. No more lag or anything. So changing the knock sensor, cleaning the TB, cleaning the MAF, running injector cleaners made the car feel faster then when I got it a year ago. But questions, the clutch engages a lot high then before, is that normal? Also my clutch pedal isn't as still as before, is that normal as well for a new clutch and resurfaced flywheel?

its normal for a stiffer clutch, wait till you do a SS clutch line. when i depress mine i can feel the engine fighting the clutch. and its normal for the pedal to be harder to push, the pedal is probably engaging higher because you had air in the clutch line they bled out.

I mean my clutch pedal is not as hard to push down. It is very easy to push down not much effort. Is there a way to make it a little stiffer? I'm used to have to push a little harder. With this new clutch, It will take time getting used to. I stalled out 2 times :mad:

im not positive, the only non oem clutch ive driven on was in my friends spec 4 clutch integ. pressing it down was like trying to smash a can.

you can try bleeding it but i would think it should be harder to push.