Overheating WTF???
#1
Overheating WTF???
Ok so here's the story..
I had a blown headgasket and I replaced it along with the starter, waterpump, thermostat, had the heads redun and other things. This has been done for about 5-6 months with no issues except that damn egr tube cel. So I'm driving home in the Texas 90 degree heat so I got my windows up and ac on...... Doin 80...... I look down and my car is gettin hot so I turn the ac off and put the heat on and it levels back out.
New thermostat
new waterpump
new head/headgasket
and my ac fan plus my coolant fan was on when I stopped. Any ideas
o yea coolant full
I had a blown headgasket and I replaced it along with the starter, waterpump, thermostat, had the heads redun and other things. This has been done for about 5-6 months with no issues except that damn egr tube cel. So I'm driving home in the Texas 90 degree heat so I got my windows up and ac on...... Doin 80...... I look down and my car is gettin hot so I turn the ac off and put the heat on and it levels back out.
New thermostat
new waterpump
new head/headgasket
and my ac fan plus my coolant fan was on when I stopped. Any ideas
o yea coolant full
#5
Ok, I might have jumped the gun a bit. I'm a bit cranky right now so my response was glib.
Check to make sure nothing is impeding airflow across the rad. ie no crap sitting between it and the condenser or in front of the condenser.
If your fans aren't damaged and turn on and behave like they're supposed to then don't bother replacing them.
You can do a couple of quick and dirty tests if you feel like it. Remove the rad cap and look for turbulence when the thermostat opens up, or just cop a feel off the lower hose when the car is up to temp.
In any case, if you don't find an external obstruction I'd just swap it out.
Check to make sure nothing is impeding airflow across the rad. ie no crap sitting between it and the condenser or in front of the condenser.
If your fans aren't damaged and turn on and behave like they're supposed to then don't bother replacing them.
You can do a couple of quick and dirty tests if you feel like it. Remove the rad cap and look for turbulence when the thermostat opens up, or just cop a feel off the lower hose when the car is up to temp.
In any case, if you don't find an external obstruction I'd just swap it out.
#8
If you feel like it, drain some of the antifreeze and put in part of a gallon of the super filtered water from publix or wherever. Should be about $1 per gal. You can run a 70/30 mix. Also, I highly recommend you use Water Wetter. Good stuff.
Check to make sure your thermostat is opening up at the right temp. Only way to test this is to see when the car reaches 190*, you can feel the lower radiator hose. Our systems are self bleeding, so you wont have to worry about air pockets. Just be sure that when refilling the coolant, you let the car run, let it cool, and recheck the level.
Also, I just got a brand new Koyo radiator off of ebay for $120 shipped. Just, fyi.
Check to make sure your thermostat is opening up at the right temp. Only way to test this is to see when the car reaches 190*, you can feel the lower radiator hose. Our systems are self bleeding, so you wont have to worry about air pockets. Just be sure that when refilling the coolant, you let the car run, let it cool, and recheck the level.
Also, I just got a brand new Koyo radiator off of ebay for $120 shipped. Just, fyi.
#10
Hey Guys -- I have a similar problem. Looked down and saw my car was overheating. I also turned on my heater and I could not get any hot air.
This leads me to believe that no coolant is flowing through the system, is that correct? If so, it has to be the thermostat or the rad hoses correct?
This leads me to believe that no coolant is flowing through the system, is that correct? If so, it has to be the thermostat or the rad hoses correct?
#11
Hey Guys -- I have a similar problem. Looked down and saw my car was overheating. I also turned on my heater and I could not get any hot air.
This leads me to believe that no coolant is flowing through the system, is that correct? If so, it has to be the thermostat or the rad hoses correct?
This leads me to believe that no coolant is flowing through the system, is that correct? If so, it has to be the thermostat or the rad hoses correct?
If engine overheats then that mean thermostat is stuck closed and no coolant is goin through radiator to cool.
Im not really sure what u mean by overheating but no heat either. Unless maybe heater coil plugged. Did u use raditor fix leak lately? or anythin else?
#12
If no heat then usually means thermostat is stuck open and the needle indicator on the dash never reaches operating temp.
If engine overheats then that mean thermostat is stuck closed and no coolant is goin through radiator to cool.
Im not really sure what u mean by overheating but no heat either. Unless maybe heater coil plugged. Did u use raditor fix leak lately? or anythin else?
If engine overheats then that mean thermostat is stuck closed and no coolant is goin through radiator to cool.
Im not really sure what u mean by overheating but no heat either. Unless maybe heater coil plugged. Did u use raditor fix leak lately? or anythin else?
no heat means no coolant circulation in the heater core...
i could be any of the following...
- a leaking heater core ( you'll smell coolant in the engine bay and / or cabin)
- coolant blockage to the heater core
- thermostat stuck open.
- overall coolant condition bad (old coolant/water will cause rust/blockage in the cooling system)
i had a friend with a 98 civic w/ 86k. that thing has a very small radiator(only holds 1 gal).
he was complaining of the temp. rising on the hwy if he drives for more than 30 min.
when i opened the radiator cap the color was BROWN
i flushed it on 3 separate occasions, with the third time adding prestone coolant flush.
that did the trick for me.
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