Revo75

iTrader: (9)

Hey guys I've been having weird problems, Ive been searching and my research is suggesting the BCM. This is whats up.

At first on my drivers side i was having problems with my window not working it would only work when it wanted too, one day it just stopped working out right. Shortly after I would have rare instances where it would happen not one but both passenger side windows. My back driver side window NEVER worked ever since I had the car so I can not speak for it(previous owner had an accident)

Then after the window problems it spread to my locking system. I have keyless, the keyless would sometimes work for the drivers side and eventually stopped...on the passenger's side it did the same thing and now it doesnt work out right. When the windows work the locks work pretaining to that side only i.e. if passenger locks work passenger windows work.

At the present moment driver side windows and locks do not work. Passenger side locks and windows only work on RARE occasion.

Around the same time I started having issues with my tweeter and speaker on the driver's side. I have no idea what it can be I checked ALL fuses and ALL fusable links they are fine. I did very brief searching on the FSM, but didn't really know what to look for. I have the haynes manual but couldn't find relevant information. Have done searching where I got ideas to test fuses and links there was also info on the BCM (Body Control Module) but from my searching I couldn't exactly deduce the exact functions of the BCM so I may be off in pointing the finger at the BCM. From my understanding it takes signals from other electrical components and acts on them i.e. if you open your window it will turn on courtesy lights? But i believe it also controls windows? Any help or pointing to a thread would greatly be appreciated! I also have the haynes manual and FSM if there is relevant info on any of these. The Org rocks! Thanks guys and gals.

[edit]
Almost forgot my clock doesn't keep time either!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

your windows, your radio or your clock don't have any interaction with each other. The clocks suffer from cold solder connections on its printed circuit board and are usually fixed by re-soldering them. You mentioned accident and if the front door was hit, this could be the reason for your other problems. Shi@@y repair may be allowing for water to get on your radio speaker and you may also have damaged wiring. Take off the door panel and do a careful inspection of the wiring inside. Keep in mind that the power window switch in the driver's door could be bad and causing you the problem. The body control modules don't fail that often, so I don't want to say it is the cause, but it is always a possibility.

theWalkinator

I also have problems with power windows and keyless remote, but a little different than yours, here is what happened,

Couple of years back, I gave a jump to a lady in the parking lot when it was raining, and ever since, in raining or damp days I can't lock or unlock my 96 Maxima's driver side door with remote, and I have to use key to open driver side door, but, the keyless remote can unlock/lock the two back doors, holding the key, it won't roll down both front side windows neither. Once inside, the driver side master control won't work, I can't lock the door, roll any window's down. The interesting thing is, if I drive for a while, it starts working again. In dry days, everything is fine again. I guess it is moisture issue, but I am not sure what to look into, I even took the driver side master control out, blow it with the hair dryer, it didn't help. BCM?

ajm8127

iTrader: (8)

Revo,

The only correlation I can think of between all of those components in your drivers door is the grounds. I agree is Dennis, take the door apart and inspect the wiring.

Revo75

iTrader: (9)

Thank you guys during the week when I have some free time I am going to have to do that! I'm pretty sure I should have no prob taking off the door panel, thanks again!

mikeg75

I'm starting to have electrical issues, same kind of stuff as reported by the OP. I first noticed it when I was trying to turn the radio on via the AM/FM button, the other day, when it wasn't raining. Then, I drove to work in pouring rain, and when coming back to the garage to get the car, I tried to use the keyless unlock, and held the button to make the windows go down, and only the passenger side went down. The doors didn't unlock. My back-right door also hasn't been unlocking with the rest of them.

I'm pretty sure this stuff has been building up rather than happening all at once. I don't actually drive that much to work, instead either biking or walking. I'm thinking of cleaning all the electrical grounds I can find. I wonder whether there are some wet connections with all the crazy rain we've had in Philly the past 3-4 days. It also seems the car has a slightly different sound, at least to my ears, though my wife insists it sounds the same.

I'm going to read a few more threads. I don't know much about the BCM or other stuff inside the door. I think it's possible that water got in the doors from having to hold the back door open for my 5-year-old to get in during the pouring rain.

Revo75

iTrader: (9)

I took it to some guy who took care of it for me. It seems water was seeping in to a ground and causing all of that havoc its been fixed for 3 months without any problems. Check the grounds!

mikeg75

OK - which grounds need to be checked? I still have these intermittent problems with my door locks, windows, etc., esp. after the car is wet or it rains. For example, I washed the car this weekend, and the first drive after washing it, the windows would not go down for several minutes of driving. Then, after a while, they worked.

I noticed that the door switches all have rubber that is slightly rotted and open to moisture and I wonder whether that might be the problem or whether the problem is inside the driver door (e.g. the power window control module).

Can anyone help shed some light on this? Thanks very much!

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

The simple process of un=plugging and re-plugging in a device has the effect of cleaning the contacts. It doesn't do it completely, but it does do it some.

Any wire you see in the engine bay that attaches to the body or engine is a ground connection. un-screw and re-screw in any you find and that will clean up the contacts somewhat.


Even better would be to get one of those metal toothbrushes to really clean them up.

arcticracer

I have had these type issues with wiring between the pillar and the door especially with certain other manufactures. If you find the problem there its best to replace with arctic grade wire(more flexible in extreme weather) leave plenty of slack and solder/heat shrink all repairs.

mikeg75

Thank you guys for responding.

I'll start with the engine grounds I've brushed off and reattached before and then check it again.

Should I also unplug and replug the fuses in the in-dash fuse box, to your first point?

I'm not going to worry about the in-pillar wires as that's far beyond my abilities!

mikeg75

Deleting double-post - damn mini-tablet!

mikeg75

I'm circling back to this old thread because I still have power lock issues and window issues particularly after it rains or is damp.

My driver side doesn't unlock automatically most of the time and neither rear power lock unlocks automatically anymore but all lock automatically.

I am ready to try taking apart the interior b pillars if I get advise that those grounds may be part of the problem but I'm afraid of mangling them. Could the rear doors not unlocking be the power lock actuators? They lock fine so I'm not sure. I also want to check the correct grounds if I figure out which are most likely at fault. I just got a test light and am still learning to troubleshoot electrical issues with my multimeter but greatly appreciate any help org'ers can offer.

I've recently had both rear doors apart without destroying anything so I'm getting a little more confident. That instance was to address slow power windows and one that wouldn't go back up which I thought was the motor/regulator but may not have been the true cause. On a recent trip, the other rear window was stuck partway down for 15 minutes before going back up and the same thing happened to my passenger window on another excursion.

What in the driver door can I test? I haven't taken it apart yet.

I also want to avoid throwing parts at the problem without understanding what's causing it. Thanks everyone!

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Your car is over 20 years old.
You live in the Northeastern United States. Salt-baby-salt.
If I was in your shoes I would just clean all the grounds in the cabin. For extra credit do the grounds in the engine bay too.

When I did all my engine bay grounds, there was a slight improvement in headlight output and the Bose system sounded a bit stronger. I think my power windows actually moved a bit faster too. For our old cars in a tough, salty climate, cleaning all the grounds will show benefits (and some fixes) everywhere.