My car only starts in Neutral, doesnt in P, how can i fix this??

 

Not sure, since my 4th gen is a 5spd, but have you tried searching to see if its a common problem with the automatics?

 

If you go all the way up in park and try to turn the key while you hold it, does it start? What I mean is turn your car to ON, press the shifter with one hand and move it all the way up into park and take the other hand and try turning the key.

 

Well the car is sitting in Park right now, if i go and try to start it, it wont. I have to put in into N and then it goes..

 

Sounds like your Park/Neutral Safety switch has gone out or is on its way out. You can also check to see if by chance the connector might have come unplugged somehow.

Any CEL's or SES lights?

 

The inhibitor switch only allows the car to start in park or neutral. Yours may need adjustment or be faulty. Its located on the trans, I think you can see it if you look under the car it is moved along with the shift lever.

 

The CEL light is on.... lemme go and turn the screw to see what codes i have..
so how easy is it to replace this switch and where can i access it from?

 

If you check out the FSM in the auto trans section it has all the info you need.

 

I know it is sitting in park hence why I stated to try and push it all the way up and then hold it there and turn the key. I had this problem before and it was not the neutral safety switch.

 

My bad, i didnt get it before, it was a bit confusing... I havent tried this, i'll check though.... thx

 

Ok, i pushed the shifter all the way up, held it and turned the key and it doesnt start. Checked the ECU and i have 0302: EGR System Hi/Low Flow and 0304: Knock Sensor (as per http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html)

I ebayed a knock sensor last friday, waiting for that... So what does the EGR code mean and is the knock sensor bad??

 

How long ago did you change the knock sensor? It may or may not be bad. You would have to test against FSM values and visually inspect. As for it still not starting in Park, does it go into park easily or is it kind of stiff getting there?

 

it goes into P easily, I bought the car two years ago, probably wasnt replaced by prev owner

 

Yeah that's probably it then. I had the problem and what happened to me was when I pushed the **** and shifted all the way into Park, it would start. I further examined the Neutral Safety Switch. The shifter cable that attaches to the switch has a rubber bushing that was falling apart and not fully shifting it on the neutral switch. I was able to readjust and tighten the screw a bit and the problem went away. But its different in your case.

 

thanx for the insight, whats with the EGR code though?? what does that mean

 

There is a green sensor located right where the knock sensor is located. That is your problem right there. Needs to be replaced.

 

So the "High/Low Flow" issue is because of the faulty sensor? Is that the 14730 EGR Temp Sensor http://www.courtesyparts.com/14730-e...ml?cPath=1783&

Thats $108.60 !! OUCH, unless i buy used from ebay selling for $30, but no telling how long that'll last...

 

By dose not start do you mean does not crank? Does the starter crank in both P and N but the car will not run in P?

If It cranks in N but not in P it's more than likely you inhibitor switch.

 

It only cranks in N, doesnt in P.... in P the dash lights come on but nothing else happens when i turn the key. Also, the codes i got were: 0302 and 0304.... the code decoder on the vbxmaxima site shows that its the EGR high/low flow and knock sensor issue but when i searched these codes, on other sites it shows as cylinder misfire?

 

Incorrect. This is the sensor you need.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/14956v-...-p-130361.html

 

I wonder how hard or easy it is to replace this thing

 

Sure sounds like the inhibitor switch, I'd check that closely. An EGR/ EGR sensor or knock sensor and codes would not prevent cranking of the starter. Your inhibitor relay should be energized on in both P and N. If you move the shift lever you should hear/feel the inhibitor relay turning on in P and N and off in any other shifter position.

 

The inhibitor relay is in the relay box near the battery. I'm like 95% sure it is your switch or the wiring leading to it that is causing the problem.

 

Pardon my noobness, once i find the switch in the relay box, how do i know its bad?

 

The switch is located on the trans. The reason for checking the inhibitor relay in the relay box is that the relay has to be activated to crank the engine.

With the ignition switch in the on postion have someone shift the car from R to N while you listen/feel the Inhibitor relay. You should hear /feel it activate. Now have them shift from R to P you should once again hear/feel the Inhibitor relay activate. If the relay does not activate when you go from R to P then you have a problem with your inhibitor swith located on the trans.

If the relay does activate when going from R to P than your Inhibitor switch is OK and something else is causing the problem.

Also if the relay is not being activated it could be an inhibitor switch adjustment or wiring problem.

 

thanx a lot, i'll do this in the morning

 

alright, so i didnt hear the inhibitor relay activate.. and i cant install that inhibitor switch myself so i'll just take it to a shop for that. But, i finally got a low miles egr vacuum solenoid switch from ebay today and i want to install it but i have no clue where it is located lol !!!
I looked around and i think i saw around three different switches that look just like the replacement i have, there is one thats before the knock sensor with the green connector and a couple more near the battery.... so which one am i replacing and what exactly is the procedure???? From what i can see, i need a stubby 10mm wrench to loosen the nut, then remove hoses and connect on the new switch before install, is that it?

 

Yup you got the procedure right. The solenoid like you said near the knock sensor is the one you are replacing. If you want to be lazy, you can connect all the hoses and the harness and leave the solenoid hanging there. There are some here that have done that and had no problems afterwards.

 

I am super lazy and thats exactly what i was thinking! So all i need now is a stubby wrench, right? I hope it's small enough to fit there though. I also have to replace the knock sensor as well but waiting on the u joint and 1/4 extensions to arrive in the mail to do that.. wish i'd just bought it from autozone.

Also, the ebay switch that i have has a brown connector on it instead of the green thats in the car? Why is it different?

 

The color doesn't mean anything. Different manufacturer of the switch.

 

thanks to trini and all that replied, really appreciate it. I just left the old one in there and put in the new one, improved throttle response now! yes yes.

havent replaced the knock sensor yet and havent bothered to clear the CEL either, but i'm thinking if maybe the ks code was piggy backing on the egr code...

 

Alright guys, so back to my old problem. I never got around to getting the neutral switch replaced and now i have a new problem! Before, i could start it in neutral and then put it in gear and drive, now it still starts in N but as soon as i put it in D or R the car shuts off!!! Please HELP! I haven't been able to drive it for 2 weeks.

 

Any codes? Could be ECTS or a vacuum line.

 

Alright, just checked the codes, I have 0403- Throttle Position Sensor, 0203- Closed Throttle Position Switch. Before it could start in N, now when I turn the key, it makes some noise but doesnt turn on, i dunno how to describe it.

 

Alright, I put in a new neutral switch and TPS. It still starts in N only and then the idle RPM's keep jumping up to 3000 and back down. Before i got the codes for the tps I never had any problems whatsoever with my idle not staying steady. I checked the hoses I took off and put back in after taking off the throttle body to put in the new TPS, they all look ok. Do you think I switched the two connectors on the TPS, could that cause the rpm's to do this or would the car not start at all if the TPS conectors are not connected in right?

 

The harness plugs are keyed so that it cannot be plugged into the next one. As for the not starting in P still, I would suggest checking your shifter cable. The cable has an adjustment procedure in the FSM. Since you changed the switch, chances are that it needs to be adjusted.

 

thanks, i'll check it

 

My Maxima suddenly will not start and will not crank. Ignition switch or other

Thanks in advance

 

Definitely check your codes, mine did the exact same thing and both the neutral switch and TPS were bad.

 

hope you get it fixed