Help with 97 max
#1
Help with 97 max
I recently bought a 97 5speed max from a friend....the E-brake does not work so i have to park it in gear...anyone know how much this would be to fix or what the problem could be ? Also it has 190K and doesnt go into gear easily...lil hard into certain gears and i was wondering if i should switch to Synthetic oil? thank for all your help
#3
300 for the brake? damn...
check the cables that run from the brake handle to the brakes in the back. they might be broken. you could also try tightening the cables up-front. not sure how to go about that on the maximas tho.
check the cables that run from the brake handle to the brakes in the back. they might be broken. you could also try tightening the cables up-front. not sure how to go about that on the maximas tho.
#6
ebrake
may want to check your rear brakes and calipers...the calipers may be seized. I just went through this and to be honest i only had one froze caliper so i replaced it...but for me the e brake on that side was fine....I think its seized on the other caliper that is good...so for now im just not gonna bother with it...probably later down the road ill fix it though!!! Just check those calipers though.
#8
I just commented on a topic like this....... Search?
Check the Lines running to back and look at the Lever and see if its still connected.
If it is find out if the Rear Calipers are Seized or the Cable has been crimped or Seized at any given point. Basically is it broken at the Hail Mary Handle or at the Calipers.
Check the Lines running to back and look at the Lever and see if its still connected.
If it is find out if the Rear Calipers are Seized or the Cable has been crimped or Seized at any given point. Basically is it broken at the Hail Mary Handle or at the Calipers.
#10
I'd try changing the MT fluid... Redline MT90 Synthetic is pretty good, before that I ran Royal Purple Synthetic and it was good too but I noticed that at below zero temperatures I could feel the stiffness in the shifter something I haven't felt with Redline MT90.
As for your ebrake, I was on the same boat but went to Menards/Home Depot and did a ghetto rig on it. Basically my ebrake cable was intact however one of the mounting brakets on the trailing arm disintegrated because of rust so I went to hardware store and looked for something that would support it.
this has been holding each side for the past 20 days without trouble... lets see how long it lasts. I checked the dealer and with my 20% discount, it was still $108 for EACH cable since they dont sell that mounting bracket. My solution will do until I come across a new looking cable at the JY.
As for your ebrake, I was on the same boat but went to Menards/Home Depot and did a ghetto rig on it. Basically my ebrake cable was intact however one of the mounting brakets on the trailing arm disintegrated because of rust so I went to hardware store and looked for something that would support it.
this has been holding each side for the past 20 days without trouble... lets see how long it lasts. I checked the dealer and with my 20% discount, it was still $108 for EACH cable since they dont sell that mounting bracket. My solution will do until I come across a new looking cable at the JY.
#11
I'd try changing the MT fluid... Redline MT90 Synthetic is pretty good, before that I ran Royal Purple Synthetic and it was good too but I noticed that at below zero temperatures I could feel the stiffness in the shifter something I haven't felt with Redline MT90.
As for your ebrake, I was on the same boat but went to Menards/Home Depot and did a ghetto rig on it. Basically my ebrake cable was intact however one of the mounting brakets on the trailing arm disintegrated because of rust so I went to hardware store and looked for something that would support it.
this has been holding each side for the past 20 days without trouble... lets see how long it lasts. I checked the dealer and with my 20% discount, it was still $108 for EACH cable since they dont sell that mounting bracket. My solution will do until I come across a new looking cable at the JY.
As for your ebrake, I was on the same boat but went to Menards/Home Depot and did a ghetto rig on it. Basically my ebrake cable was intact however one of the mounting brakets on the trailing arm disintegrated because of rust so I went to hardware store and looked for something that would support it.
this has been holding each side for the past 20 days without trouble... lets see how long it lasts. I checked the dealer and with my 20% discount, it was still $108 for EACH cable since they dont sell that mounting bracket. My solution will do until I come across a new looking cable at the JY.
Hmmm... very interesting. So let me ask you, when you buy the parking brake cable from the dealer, they don't give you those mounting brackets? That doesn't make sense... Do they expect these to last forever or did they already start to discontinue parts for these cars and no longer carry those brackets?
#12
If you're not scared and you want to do it yourself. Here's a writeup from Chiltons
Also here's the price for each cable at AZ
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-j9f71Z8knm5
Here you go:
Front Cable
Rear Cables
Also here's the price for each cable at AZ
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-j9f71Z8knm5
Here you go:
Front Cable
- Remove the center console assembly.
- Loosen and remove the parking brake cable adjusting nut at the base of the parking brake lever.
- From under the vehicle, disconnect the parking brake cables at the equalizer.
- Unbolt the parking brake lever from the center console.
- Unbolt and remove the front parking brake cable from the vehicle.
- Install the front parking brake cable into the parking brake lever and start the adjusting nut on the front cable.
- Install the lever and cable assembly into the vehicle. Tighten the mounting bolts to 9-12 ft. lbs. (13-16 Nm).
- From under the vehicle, connect the parking brake cables at the equalizer.
- Install the center console assembly.
Rear Cables
- Remove the rear wheel and the brake drum or disc assembly.
- At the cable adjuster, loosen the adjusting nut, then separate the rear cable from the equalizer.
- On rear drum brakes, remove the brake shoes from the backing plate, then separate the rear cable from the toggle lever.
- On rear disc brakes, remove the cable retainer and the cable end from the toggle lever.
- Remove the bolts that secure the cable to the vehicle under body.
- Pull the cable through the backing plate and remove it from the vehicle.
- Connect the cable to the toggle lever and tighten the cable retainer nut on the backing plate to 9-12 ft. lbs. (13-16 Nm).
- Install the bolts that secure the cable to the vehicle under body and tighten the bolt to 45-57 inch lbs. (5.1-6.5 Nm).
- At the cable equalizer, connect the parking brake cable and tighten the bolt or mounting nut to 9-12 ft. lbs. (13-16 Nm).
- Install the disc brake rotor and wheel assembly.
- Adjust the parking brake cable.
Last edited by K-Ryder; 07-22-2010 at 05:18 AM.
#13
Hmmm... very interesting. So let me ask you, when you buy the parking brake cable from the dealer, they don't give you those mounting brackets? That doesn't make sense... Do they expect these to last forever or did they already start to discontinue parts for these cars and no longer carry those brackets?
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