When i am at a stop and i put the car in gear it slides in smoothly. When i let go of the clutch it makes a clunk/thud. I lifted the hood and i cleary see the motor rocking from front to back. Its when the motor rocks back i hear the thud/clunk anyone have suggestions how to determine which of the four mounts are bad. There is no vibration while driving. No vibration while idiling, well very very very minor while idiling barely even noticeable. 240,000 miles

 

well if it's rocking back and forth not side to side it stands to reason that the mounts on the front and rear of the motor that control fore/aft movement are bad...

 

 

+2. If you lift the hood, the one in the front middle is clear enough for you to see and examine. If that one is good, chances are the back is no good. The back mount is usually the first to go.

 

Mine does this too. I'm planning on pulling the front/rear mounts and filling them with urethane. DIY poly mounts ftw!

 

I have a similar issue, so I'm currently waiting on my window welded mounts to cure and then I'm installing

 

Whats the current concensus on Energy Suspension motor mount inserts?

When I'm on and off the gas and sometimes when shifting car feels jerky - and when giving it a bit of gas off the lights it will wheel hop very easily not sure if its the mounts or my 225 tyres spinning then gripping making it hop

 

It's not your tires. FWD cars with failing motor mounts are very jerky off the line. This is compounded if you have a manual trans as you're controlling the smoothness of the takeoff. IDK if there is a consensus on the inserts but I'm going to fill mine for less $.

 

ES mounts are good performance-wise. They cause more vibration to be transferred to the cabin of the car though from the engine. Most noticeable to me when idling sitting at stoplights and such. How much it bothers you will depend on your personal preference.

Motor mounts and control arm bushings, and road surface/tire interaction are the things that cause wheelhop. Good mounts (either ES, filled, or new stock) will do a lot to reduce wheelhop as will new control arm bushings. I have both and wheelhop is exceedingly rare, though every once in a while i can experience a bit of it. Not nearly as common as in my old beater maxima which had bad mounts and bad control arm bushings.

 

has anyone brought motor mounts from ebay? I've seen some with prices hard to believe. Set of 4 @ $100.00.... not saying I need all 4 but I do believe I need the front and rear. I'm having this same problem and also they are the original stock mounts.

 

Is their a right up / photo clearly showing front and rear mount, is it DIY for amature ? you need to replace or reuse the mount as couple other are doing on this post...please direct to details thread if possible...thanks

 

^^^^
This thread has a little bit of information about the es mount installation, but no pictures. You can do it yourself if you have a press; otherwise, you would have to take the mounts to a shop to have the old ones pressed out and the new ones pressed in.

The Nissan FSM's have pictures of the motor mounts under the Engine Mechanical section. I downloaded them recently from here: http://www.aubreyandcharles.com/ServiceManuals/

 

I used a 20 ton press to press the stock bushings out, I left the mounts on the motor's subframe when I did it. (obviously, I removed the subframe from the car).

A hacksaw was used to take the metal ring out, this probably took the most effort.

Getting the ES replacements in was done with a bench vise, was extremely easy. I put a light coating of red synthetic grease around the inside to reduce any possible squeaking, this is sort of controversial but it worked well for me.

The second hardest part was putting the subframe back on the car. You will notice that the motor mounts do not easily line up with the holes on the block front to back, you actually have to tilt the block slightly at the front or the back, this part is sort of trial and error. The car was on a lift so I used a motor jack stand (the really tall jackstands that are designed to support the motor when the car is on a lift) to support various parts of the motor to angle it up.

 

what do you mean filling them with urethane? is that what ES is

 

ES = Energy Suspension

They make all urethane motor mounts for our cars. You can download their catalog from their website. They are sold several places including ebay and most local parts stores (special order). Check the How-To's sticky and there are instructions that describe how and why you would poly-fill your mounts.

 

i don't know what poly filling is i wanted to find out, is it bad?

 

Poly filling isnt bad. That is a DIY way to fill your mounts and make them solid, usually cheaper/easier and more consistent than inserts.

It is a method of filling the mounts with 3M window urethane or other such product. I have read of people filling mounts with hot glue or taking a hockey puck and cutting/grinding/pressing it into place.

My other car rest its soul had a solid steel front/rear mount and urethane filled sides. It was a beast in that the NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harsness) was kinda rough. But it shifted like glass smooth.
S

 

FYI, my rear mount is toast but I just replaced my Control arm bushings (ES), ball joints and end links and I have virtually no wheel hop in my 5mt.

But the car shifts like crap though, and jerks between sudden acceleration/deceleration.

 

I use to get bad wheel hop and for the last year I have replaced three motor mounts and filled them with 3m window weld,struts,strut mounts,springs 1'' drop ,sway links, sway bar bushings,tie rods inner and outer,strut tower bars,and control arms. 5mt and no more wheel hop the car handles grate and on launches I can control the amount of wheel spin with no hop..