WOW!!! Is this a good deal on an I30t LSD 5 speed transmission?!!!!
Ok, thx nelledge! I found a deal on ebay, this company makes it for our 4th gens and 5th gens. They sell the complete SS clutch line that goes to the master cylinder to slave. Is this all I need? So your saying that I can DITCH the oem spaghetti metal clutch lines that I got from the salvage yard and just use the SS CLUTCH LINE?!! Anybody?
SS clutch line link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2192wt_1165
SS clutch line link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_2192wt_1165
The stock spaghetti lines are a real ***** to get out. I had to use a hacksaw and vise grips.
That said, the clutch feels no worse for the loss and it's no fun dealing with all those boxes. If you're really ****, that's weight removed from the car, or clutter removed from the engine bay. Long and short of it, if you're replacing any fraction of the clutch line, you might as well get rid of the whole factory line setup.
That said, the clutch feels no worse for the loss and it's no fun dealing with all those boxes. If you're really ****, that's weight removed from the car, or clutter removed from the engine bay. Long and short of it, if you're replacing any fraction of the clutch line, you might as well get rid of the whole factory line setup.
This is the same clutch line I'm pickin up ...I'm I the process of doin a 5spd swap as well. As fr as I see it someones gotta try it and see wheter it holds up or not...I'm jus a trans mount and clutch kit away. This thread was helpful =)). Be sure to update us of your swap...
Ok, thx everyone. Im gonna buy the SS clutch line. I ordered my manual tranny mount, transmission seals, and return spring today. All I need now is the clutch kit, axles, a few bolts and Im ready! I will let you guys know the progress until then, if I have any other questions I will keep you all posted. Thank you everybody!
So it is probable that using the auto ECU and keeping the TCM and wiring up the M/T P/N switch will still give you a code. Which, again, might not be a big deal for you, but it would drive me crazy, not to mention when something was wrong, I wouldn't know. That's why I found a 97 Manual Fed Spec ECU for my swap. No CEL, no wondering.
The '95 and '98 ECU have some important differences
On the '95, pins 45 and 49 carry the crank POS signal to the ECU. On the '98, only pin 49 does. This is only a problem if those pins are not tied together internally to the '95 manual ECU. If they are not, then you will have to find a way on the '98 harness to get the crank POS signal to pin 45 as well. a simple test with a DVM in resistance mode will tell you if these pins are connected inside the '95 ECU.
On the '95 ECU, pin 105 powers the rear o2 sensor heater, and pin 112 is it's ground. On the '98 ECU, pin 107 power the heater, and it does not ground to the ECU. You would have to move pin 107 from the '98 harness to position 105 for the rear o2 sensor heater to work.
If I were to do another swap. I'd use the ECU from the correct model year with the correct emission spec for the car I was working on. I'd also follow this wiring guide.
This is true, but the auto ECU will also try to establish communications with the auto trans control module. Even if you leave the control module, I think the ECU will throw a code for not being able to detect the solenoids. More accurately, the TCM will tell the ECU to light up the CEL to inform you of not being able to detect the solenoids.
So it is probable that using the auto ECU and keeping the TCM and wiring up the M/T P/N switch will still give you a code. Which, again, might not be a big deal for you, but it would drive me crazy, not to mention when something was wrong, I wouldn't know. That's why I found a 97 Manual Fed Spec ECU for my swap. No CEL, no wondering.
The '95 and '98 ECU have some important differences
On the '95, pins 45 and 49 carry the crank POS signal to the ECU. On the '98, only pin 49 does. This is only a problem if those pins are not tied together internally to the '95 manual ECU. If they are not, then you will have to find a way on the '98 harness to get the crank POS signal to pin 45 as well. a simple test with a DVM in resistance mode will tell you if these pins are connected inside the '95 ECU.
On the '95 ECU, pin 105 powers the rear o2 sensor heater, and pin 112 is it's ground. On the '98 ECU, pin 107 power the heater, and it does not ground to the ECU. You would have to move pin 107 from the '98 harness to position 105 for the rear o2 sensor heater to work.
If I were to do another swap. I'd use the ECU from the correct model year with the correct emission spec for the car I was working on. I'd also follow this wiring guide.
So it is probable that using the auto ECU and keeping the TCM and wiring up the M/T P/N switch will still give you a code. Which, again, might not be a big deal for you, but it would drive me crazy, not to mention when something was wrong, I wouldn't know. That's why I found a 97 Manual Fed Spec ECU for my swap. No CEL, no wondering.
The '95 and '98 ECU have some important differences
On the '95, pins 45 and 49 carry the crank POS signal to the ECU. On the '98, only pin 49 does. This is only a problem if those pins are not tied together internally to the '95 manual ECU. If they are not, then you will have to find a way on the '98 harness to get the crank POS signal to pin 45 as well. a simple test with a DVM in resistance mode will tell you if these pins are connected inside the '95 ECU.
On the '95 ECU, pin 105 powers the rear o2 sensor heater, and pin 112 is it's ground. On the '98 ECU, pin 107 power the heater, and it does not ground to the ECU. You would have to move pin 107 from the '98 harness to position 105 for the rear o2 sensor heater to work.
If I were to do another swap. I'd use the ECU from the correct model year with the correct emission spec for the car I was working on. I'd also follow this wiring guide.
Also, I know Jtzmax told me that the size of the bolt that goes on the shift linkage to tranny is around 12mm. The Nissan Dealership gave me a print out of the shift linkage to tranny diagram, it had some additional washers and nuts that go along with the bolt. I asked the guy @ Nissan what size and type of washers are used and he said he does'nt know?! He was probably being lazy.
Anyone have any pictures of these bolt, washers, and nuts that go from the shift linkage to the tranny?
I just wanna make sure I get the right hardware.
Anyone have any pictures of these bolt, washers, and nuts that go from the shift linkage to the tranny?
I just wanna make sure I get the right hardware.
Also, I know Jtzmax told me that the size of the bolt that goes on the shift linkage to tranny is around 12mm. The Nissan Dealership gave me a print out of the shift linkage to tranny diagram, it had some additional washers and nuts that go along with the bolt. I asked the guy @ Nissan what size and type of washers are used and he said he does'nt know?! He was probably being lazy.
Anyone have any pictures of these bolt, washers, and nuts that go from the shift linkage to the tranny?
I just wanna make sure I get the right hardware.
Anyone have any pictures of these bolt, washers, and nuts that go from the shift linkage to the tranny?
I just wanna make sure I get the right hardware.The service guy won't know sizes because the parts software doesn't say what the sizes are.
David
Dave is right, the service person will not know much of most things. Also, IIRC, I said - I think it's 12mm. I don't know for sure and I'm not about to go pull my bolts out (again! - unless I have to!!!) to find out. heheheeh You might be able to do one of a few things - try the scrap yard and see if they have an MT car (with linkage) and snagg the stuff you need, ask a Nissan tech (not service guy), sometimes the tech's will know these things for some reason, or ... as Dave said, order them from Nissan.
Thx everybody! Oh ok, I see. Me being so anxious, I placed the order last friday for the "CORRECT" size bolts and nuts for the shift linkage from nissan for a total of $19. I should get them on Wednesday being that it's special ordered. Over the weekend, I went to the salvage yard to get a flywheel with "ALL" the bolts for $16 and I'm gonna get it resurfaced this week.
I did get the bolts and nuts for the shift linkage from the salvage yard. However, when I called Nissan to see if I can cancel the order and get a refund on the bolts and nuts, they said NO! Because it was a special ordered item! I wish I could get my money back, THIS SUCKS, WHAT A WASTE OF MONEY!
I could've used that money to buy a shift ****.
Hey David or anybody that works at Nissan, is there another alternative to get my money back from Nissan????
I did get the bolts and nuts for the shift linkage from the salvage yard. However, when I called Nissan to see if I can cancel the order and get a refund on the bolts and nuts, they said NO! Because it was a special ordered item! I wish I could get my money back, THIS SUCKS, WHAT A WASTE OF MONEY!
I could've used that money to buy a shift ****.
Hey David or anybody that works at Nissan, is there another alternative to get my money back from Nissan????
Thx everybody! Oh ok, I see. Me being so anxious, I placed the order last friday for the "CORRECT" size bolts and nuts for the shift linkage from nissan for a total of $19. I should get them on Wednesday being that it's special ordered. Over the weekend, I went to the salvage yard to get a flywheel with "ALL" the bolts for $16 and I'm gonna get it resurfaced this week.
I did get the bolts and nuts for the shift linkage from the salvage yard. However, when I called Nissan to see if I can cancel the order and get a refund on the bolts and nuts, they said NO! Because it was a special ordered item! I wish I could get my money back, THIS SUCKS, WHAT A WASTE OF MONEY!
I could've used that money to buy a shift ****.
Hey David or anybody that works at Nissan, is there another alternative to get my money back from Nissan????
I did get the bolts and nuts for the shift linkage from the salvage yard. However, when I called Nissan to see if I can cancel the order and get a refund on the bolts and nuts, they said NO! Because it was a special ordered item! I wish I could get my money back, THIS SUCKS, WHAT A WASTE OF MONEY!
I could've used that money to buy a shift ****.
Hey David or anybody that works at Nissan, is there another alternative to get my money back from Nissan????
Unfortunatly, this is one ya gotta suck up and loose out on the $19. Sorry. I guess you could go back daily, take a pen or some tape and get it outta them that way - but it might take a LONG time.
lol Glad you're making progress, keep it up and you'll get it done in no time.
Unfortunatly, this is one ya gotta suck up and loose out on the $19. Sorry. I guess you could go back daily, take a pen or some tape and get it outta them that way - but it might take a LONG time.
lol Glad you're making progress, keep it up and you'll get it done in no time.
lol Glad you're making progress, keep it up and you'll get it done in no time.
I will keep you guys posted on the swap.
I know this may sound like a stupid question but, is it ok to use automatic transmission fluid in my manual transmission?
If not, then what is the best manual transmission fluid that I can get at either advanced auto parts, auto zone, oreilly's, walmart, etc.?
If not, then what is the best manual transmission fluid that I can get at either advanced auto parts, auto zone, oreilly's, walmart, etc.?
Ok, disregard the stupid tranny fluid question, I will be using GL-4 Gear Oil by Redline in my 5 speed transmission.
Over the weekend I finished doing phase #1 of the 5 speed swap, which was installing the brake pedal, clutch pedal, and clutch master cylinder. Installing the clutch master cylinder and making the wholes line up was a pain and required alot of patience.
For a begginner, its best for the person to do this project in phases and not all at one time, IMO.
I will keep you guys posted on my progress.
Over the weekend I finished doing phase #1 of the 5 speed swap, which was installing the brake pedal, clutch pedal, and clutch master cylinder. Installing the clutch master cylinder and making the wholes line up was a pain and required alot of patience.
For a begginner, its best for the person to do this project in phases and not all at one time, IMO.
I will keep you guys posted on my progress.
I have a question, the inside of my 5 speed tranny is black because of the gear oil that was previously in there and the exterior is also dirty, I was thinking is it safe to pressure wash my 5 speed tranny with it being out right now or do I just leave it as is? Anyone?
Goodness, no do not spray the interior of your transmission with water or soap. I would also recommend not trying to wash the outside of the transmission because it's difficult to plug the openings in a manner that prevents water from getting in. You can wash it off after you've installed it in the car and the openings to the trans are all sealed up again (make sure the breather hose and speedo sensor are plugged in!). If you do this without the throttle and air intake removed you should manage to get things relatively clean.
The only way to clean the transmission internals well involves having it 100% disassembled and using a parts washer. Just wipe the magnet clean and drain and replace the oil on a shorter time frame than normal. One month is probably enough, and for that month you can run a cheaper gear oil, then put in a good synthetic for the duration after. Do not add cleaner detergents or additives. The black color will never really go away but you should see a solid improvement.
BTW the black color is mostly normal. Dirt and metal shavings are not. Watch for silvery looking stuff. If you clean more than a teaspoon worth of metal fines from your magnet you're probably in need of a rebuild.
The only way to clean the transmission internals well involves having it 100% disassembled and using a parts washer. Just wipe the magnet clean and drain and replace the oil on a shorter time frame than normal. One month is probably enough, and for that month you can run a cheaper gear oil, then put in a good synthetic for the duration after. Do not add cleaner detergents or additives. The black color will never really go away but you should see a solid improvement.
BTW the black color is mostly normal. Dirt and metal shavings are not. Watch for silvery looking stuff. If you clean more than a teaspoon worth of metal fines from your magnet you're probably in need of a rebuild.
Last edited by dgeesaman; Nov 22, 2010 at 01:26 PM.
5 speed swap on hold! Due to a bad transmission, transmission is stuck in gear. One thing I learned about the 5 speed swap is that I can use the auto flywheel bolts to bolt up the manual flywheel with manual center plate bracket with no problems. I tried using the manual flywheel bolts but they seem to be too long in length and do not go all the way in the crankshaft holes like the automatics do. I nearly damaged the threads in the crankshaft by using the manual bolts, thank GOD I didnt! I dont know if anyone ran into this problem, but the automatic bolts that connect to the manual flywheel work just fine.
Does anyone have any insight on my 5 speed manual being locked up while the car is on and off?!!! I literally cannot move the shifter into gear, could this be a major problem with the transmission? Is it something that I can fix myself without dropping the transmission?!!!!
The front wheels are not rolling, the front wheels are totally locked! What could it be?!!! These transmission service guys are charging me $300 just to take a look at it! Help!!! Anyone!!!
The front wheels are not rolling, the front wheels are totally locked! What could it be?!!! These transmission service guys are charging me $300 just to take a look at it! Help!!! Anyone!!!
Had you or someone else previously opened this transmission case up?
Take the big black plastic plug off the bottom of the transmission (the one held in there with a 10mm bolt). Be very careful when prying this thing out because that plastic is very brittle and cracks very easily. Use a really skinny flat head screwdriver on both sides of it to pry it out, so that you don't put too much pressure on it and break the plastic. Or you can use razor blades to pry it, those are nice and thin too.
Take off the that plug and if you can get a good picture of the shift rail ends (3 steel horseshoe shaped things that will be pretty obvious close to that hole) I can most likely tell you what is causing this. When you take that plug off also be careful as to not knock the white plastic and copper "teeter totter" that you'll see right there. That is the thing that activates your reverse lights and it's often very loose in it's position, and can be easily knocked off and end up down in the bowels of your transmission and then you've got a problem.
You'll probably need a small flash light to shine in there in order to get the pic to turn out.
Take the big black plastic plug off the bottom of the transmission (the one held in there with a 10mm bolt). Be very careful when prying this thing out because that plastic is very brittle and cracks very easily. Use a really skinny flat head screwdriver on both sides of it to pry it out, so that you don't put too much pressure on it and break the plastic. Or you can use razor blades to pry it, those are nice and thin too.
Take off the that plug and if you can get a good picture of the shift rail ends (3 steel horseshoe shaped things that will be pretty obvious close to that hole) I can most likely tell you what is causing this. When you take that plug off also be careful as to not knock the white plastic and copper "teeter totter" that you'll see right there. That is the thing that activates your reverse lights and it's often very loose in it's position, and can be easily knocked off and end up down in the bowels of your transmission and then you've got a problem.
You'll probably need a small flash light to shine in there in order to get the pic to turn out.
BTW a few months ago I took some pictures of exactly what I'm talking about and I'm looking for them for you, but I lost my camera when I moved in october, and I'm not sure if I ever took the pics off of the camera.
BTW the plug I'm talking about that you need to remove is the one that those wires and harness are attached to in your silver spraypaint pic, it looks like you probably painted the plug silver, but that's the one you need to remove.
BTW the plug I'm talking about that you need to remove is the one that those wires and harness are attached to in your silver spraypaint pic, it looks like you probably painted the plug silver, but that's the one you need to remove.
Ok, thx Nealoc. Actually, I believe the guy who sold me this transmission he or someone else did tamper with it!
Because a bolt is missing from the transmission case and it leaks gear oil from a whole where I believe a bolt or a screw is suppose to go. I'm not gonna fool with it, I have some one who is going to physically take a look at it tomorrow. I will keep u posted but, do you think it might need a rebuild or is it something minor?
Because a bolt is missing from the transmission case and it leaks gear oil from a whole where I believe a bolt or a screw is suppose to go. I'm not gonna fool with it, I have some one who is going to physically take a look at it tomorrow. I will keep u posted but, do you think it might need a rebuild or is it something minor?
depends how badly it was messed with.
what bolt is missing? it's conceivable that someone messed around with it enough to make the interlock system non-functional which means that at could be in two gears at once (which is what your symptoms sound like - the car being unable to move, and the shifter being locked in place, and which is the reason I asked if someone had messed with it, and which is the reason I asked for you to take a pic of the shift mechanism - i would be able to tell that at a glance).
this sort of thing is not too uncommon with this trans, there are a few very easy to lose tiny pieces of the interlock mechanism. you can put the trans together missing these pieces and not know that you've done anything wrong but you're going to end up with a trans that is stuck in 2 gears at once. sounds very much like what has happened here.
you could also get stuck in 2 gears at once or locked out of gear if a shift fork is broken, or if another part is broken inside the trans and is just physically blocking the shift mechanism and jamming up a shaft or gear not allowing it to turn.
regardless, the cover's going to have to come off (at a minimum) to diagnose the problem unless you can get a picture of what i requested, and unless it is something really really simple, it's probably going to have to come at least 50% apart in order for it to be fixed. probably going to cost you a few hundred bucks at least unless it is just a simple case it being knocked into gear during transportation/installation.
what bolt is missing? it's conceivable that someone messed around with it enough to make the interlock system non-functional which means that at could be in two gears at once (which is what your symptoms sound like - the car being unable to move, and the shifter being locked in place, and which is the reason I asked if someone had messed with it, and which is the reason I asked for you to take a pic of the shift mechanism - i would be able to tell that at a glance).
this sort of thing is not too uncommon with this trans, there are a few very easy to lose tiny pieces of the interlock mechanism. you can put the trans together missing these pieces and not know that you've done anything wrong but you're going to end up with a trans that is stuck in 2 gears at once. sounds very much like what has happened here.
you could also get stuck in 2 gears at once or locked out of gear if a shift fork is broken, or if another part is broken inside the trans and is just physically blocking the shift mechanism and jamming up a shaft or gear not allowing it to turn.
regardless, the cover's going to have to come off (at a minimum) to diagnose the problem unless you can get a picture of what i requested, and unless it is something really really simple, it's probably going to have to come at least 50% apart in order for it to be fixed. probably going to cost you a few hundred bucks at least unless it is just a simple case it being knocked into gear during transportation/installation.
Well, we were both right! I took the transmission to the transmission shop. Gladly to say, maxima transmissions are there specialty. He took the transmission apart and he said that it was missing check *****, bolts, springs, reverse screw?
LOL... looks like the seller of this tranny screwed me over!
Sometimes you just gotta laugh! The transmission shop had a 97 manual transmission in perfect working order for around $200 with my LSD trade. It was gonna cost me an arm and a leg to get the LSD tranny fixed so I said heck, I need to get my car running! U can keep the LSD tranny and I will take the 97 5 speed tranny. DEAL? DEAL! So I have the 97 5 speed tranny, Yes, the 97 5 speed came with a warranty. I will be putting the transmission in this week. I will keep u guys posted on the swap.
LOL... looks like the seller of this tranny screwed me over!
Sometimes you just gotta laugh! The transmission shop had a 97 manual transmission in perfect working order for around $200 with my LSD trade. It was gonna cost me an arm and a leg to get the LSD tranny fixed so I said heck, I need to get my car running! U can keep the LSD tranny and I will take the 97 5 speed tranny. DEAL? DEAL! So I have the 97 5 speed tranny, Yes, the 97 5 speed came with a warranty. I will be putting the transmission in this week. I will keep u guys posted on the swap.
If they specialize in Maxima transmissions they'll have a notebook crammed full of various Maxima bearing shim sizes. Like me. 
Sounds like one of those "oh yeah I specialize in those. And that too".

Sounds like one of those "oh yeah I specialize in those. And that too".
I completed my 5 speed swap today!!!
It drives awesome!!! This was a major accomplishment for me because it was my first time doing a swap. Manual is so much better than automatic!!!! Very fun to drive!!!!
I will post pics later.
It drives awesome!!! This was a major accomplishment for me because it was my first time doing a swap. Manual is so much better than automatic!!!! Very fun to drive!!!!
I will post pics later.
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