Originally Posted by 2000_MAXIMA_KING (Post 7793979)

Btw are you upgrading for front and rear or just front?

Originally Posted by schmellyfart (Post 7794090)

There's also the option of using 5.5gen calipers and rotors.

Originally Posted by schmellyfart (Post 7794115)

5.5 gen is 2002/2003, the latter half of the 5th generation.


http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...s-4th-gen.html

Originally Posted by BlackDOut98LGE (Post 7794153)

Ah, yes. I saw that but it requires modification & I am simply looking to buy calipers/rotors/pads/SS brake lines, take them to my local Express Oil Change or Xpert Tire & have them installed.

I COULD have this done, but I can't tell where he drills the 2 holes in the hub as he only posted an 'after' pic. (Haven't looked a pages 2 & 3 yet)

I am correct in my thinking that the Q45/J30 calipers/rotors are just a direct swap & need no mods like the 5.5 brake swap, right?

Originally Posted by njmaxseltd (Post 7794529)

Just get some blank rotors and throw the Hawks on there. It's a really nice "upgrade".

Originally Posted by rustest86

First, why do this over better pads and/or drilled/slotted rotors or 300zx brakes? 300zx brakes will not clear the stock wheels so unless new wheels are also in your budget those are out of the question.

Here's the cost list and tool list.

TOOLS:jack and jack stands1/2" ratchat13/16 socket19mm socket17mm socket14mm socket12mm socket10mm wrench4" angle grinder

COST:$44 used Q45 calipers, pads, and rotors ( i used a digital caliper and measured the rotors and pad so i knew i was getting good ones.)$0.00 machine work on rotors ( they owed me a favor )$56 new rear rotors, pads, and brake fluid$59 new passenger side rear caliper

TOLTAL:$159 for big brake upgrade and new rears for me

of course costs will vary with your area junkyards or if you use new calipers, rotors, and pads. and machine work.

Side by side comparisons of stock vs Q45:

as you can see there are 2 pistons vs the stock 1, the pads have slightly more contact area, and the rotors are thicker. this all translates into more clamping force along with more contact area which also transfers heat better to the rotor and having thicker rotors means more thermal capacity to withstand brake fad and boiling the fluid.

before you can even start the install, the rotors, OEM or aftermarket, need to be milled down 8mm off of the OUTSIDE diameter. this is done so that the rotor clears the caliper and caliper bracket.

to start installing the brakes, first start by lifting the car up and supporting it. next you need to "load" the suspension by jacking up the lower control arm untill the car just starts to lift off of you supports. next remove all the old brake hardware. i left the caliper connected so to not loose any fluid and prevent a mess. when you get everything tore down you should end up with this, now there are 2 options here you can do like me and remove the dust shield completely, or try trimming to clear everything. the only bad thing about trimming is the rotor sit sooo close that there is the posibility of it rubbing.

next you will need a grinder and grind on the lower control arm.

before grinding:

after grinding:

now to the people that question structual integrity about grinding on the control arm, you only need to take off a maximum of 1/16" of material. just enough to clear the rotor. this is also the reason of "LOADING" the suspension so that the control arm is at its closest to the rotor. you will need to grind and check often from full lock to full lock for proper clearances.

after this is done the caliper bracket can be bolted on, use the maxima bolts NOT the Q45/J30 as they are longer and will rub the rotor.

Next the inside pad can be installed, but the outside pad needs to be modified to clear the hub. your pad should look like this: you need to grind the lower part with the circle opening to the contor of the pad material. you do not need to grind ANY pad material, just the steel backing. and youll want to end up with this: now bolt the caliper on and bleed the system then move to the other side. i the end it sould look like this:

when i did this i also did new rear pads and rotors to complete the install, which was a good idea as i had 2 frozen slide pins, a bad caliper, and i was missing a clip that held the e-brake cable to the bracket.

DRIVING IMPRESSIONS:OMFG!!!!!!! this thing stops better than my 300zx brake equiped 240sx. my stopping distances dropped by at least 75ft under heavy braking. i also never felt any brake fad when i was bedding in the new brakes. there is more petal movement, but i like it as its easier to modulate them and keep them from locking them up. i also completely flushed the brake system and filled it with DOT-4 fluid. if you could get it i would use DOT 5.1 for a higher boiling point but DOT-4 is good for daily/spirited driving.

also to those who might "NEED" more, you could couple this with drilled/slotted rotors and hawk pads.

if you have any questions post em up and ill answer them.

Originally Posted by tigersharkdude (Post 7794613)

Here's a write-up from another nissan site on how to install the Q45 brakes. If you want the link to pics and all. PM me

Originally Posted by j-dawg (Post 7795791)

The long and short of it is, if, with your current brake setup, you can lock your tires or activate your ABS, you cannot reduce your stopping distance. It is physically impossible. There's no reason to upgrade your brake system - buy new tires, replace your lines, whatever, but upgrading your calipers, rotors, and pads will not help you.

Originally Posted by j-dawg (Post 7796325)

Agreed. That's why I said "which only matters if you have your car on a track."

Fact is, though, Maximae are not great track cars, so I'm assuming the OP doesn't take his out. For street use, upgrading your brakes is a waste of money and potentially hazardous if you're modifying factory components (eg re-drilling brake rotors, fabricating custom mounts, etc). You'll have more money in your pockets and be absolutely no worse off - potentially better off, in fact - if you just replace your pads and rotors with high-quality, durable components.

Originally Posted by Nealoc187 (Post 7796945)

a ton of what you posted in your original post is inaccurate and a lot of your questions are answered multiple times on the forum.

Originally Posted by phatboislim (Post 7794655)

its been clarified that 'advance' blanks and brembos are damn near the same, so just a set of blanks (turned rotors) and hawk pads and you're fine. you could buy my 5th gen front brakes so i can go to the 6th gen :D

Originally Posted by j-dawg (Post 7795791)

Can you lock up your tires? If so, don't waste your money.

I get a little red in the face when I see threads about brake upgrades. Braking power is limited by available tractive force - your tires can only supply so much deceleration, and if you can exceed that with your current brake package, you cannot reduce stopping distance or "power" without upgrading your tires.

Chances are, you can in your current brake configuration lock your tires or activate your ABS - unless you're running some sort of very heavy wheel/tire combo, the factory brake package should overwhelm the tractive ability of the tires. In that case, the only thing an upgrade will do is allow you prolonged sessions of heavy braking without fade, which only matters if you have your car on a track. Even an autocross won't heat your brakes up enough to make them fade.

The long and short of it is, if, with your current brake setup, you can lock your tires or activate your ABS, you cannot reduce your stopping distance. It is physically impossible. There's no reason to upgrade your brake system - buy new tires, replace your lines, whatever, but upgrading your calipers, rotors, and pads will not help you.