GStrength

iTrader: (4)

Last night I turned my car on and the oil light flickered violently and my car made a terrible clicking/clanking sound. The noise subsided but it made a noticeable clicking noise that wasn't normal so I baby drove my car home down the street.

I since changed the oil. When the car idles it sounds like the valves are tapping. When I rev it slightly the clanking noise is significant. I assume my oil pump is burnt out, but there isn't any check oil light on. Suggestions please because to change the oil pump is a crazy job.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

The oil pump isn't a common failure item.
The VQ does make a ticking noise, it comes from the injectors.
Check the oil pressure with a gauge.
How many miles?
Can you take a video of it?
A compression test can tell you a whole lot too.
Has the maintenance been up to date?
Was the engine low on oil when the tap and oil light came on? Did you even check it before you "baby drove" it home?

GStrength

iTrader: (4)

I would record a video but I really don't want to crank it over because it makes a metal to metal contact sound as if I were low on oil. I am planning on cranking it over one more time to check the oil pressure.

Do you think it may be a clogged oil strainer? The engine has 250, 000 miles and it's been running on Mobil 1, 5W/30. Recently I ran it with Mobil 1 5W/30 and a SuperTech oil filter and it's been approx 6.5k miles since my last oil change.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

I don't mean to sound like an a$$, but were you doing burnouts or 7K shifts before the sound started? Sounds like a spun/hosed bearing to me.
I don't think it would be valve train.
Ive got over 260K, and run 5W/30 SuperTech at 3K with SuperTech filter with no issues.
Remove your belts and run to eliminate the possibility of a bad accessory bearing.

GStrength

iTrader: (4)

LOL, no you do not sound like an @$$, I actually appreciate the open-minded criticism. I never do burn outs, however I did race a car and was shifting at 7200 RPM. It wasn't until I turned my car back on I realized the terrible noise it made. I will try your suggestion first, thanks.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

How soon after 7.2K shifting did you start the engine and notice the noise? I'm guessing rod bearing. If you do it before driving, you MIGHT be able to pull off the biggest kinda redneck repair.

Pull pans, remove rod caps one at a time checking journals.
Polish offending journal with crocus cloth.
Replace hosed bearing with undersized or standard bearing.

Ive heard of this being done and would try it myself before buying another motor. at the very least it would buy you some time to get another motor.

BTW a hosed bearing that's looser than Courtney Love will cause low oil pressure.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

What happens is while your hammering it, the bearings will gall, stick to the crank and spin in the rod in a film of oil. When you shut it down everything "welds" together. re-starting breaks the bond and then you have terrible noises.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

I suspect your pressure is ok. If its not a spun bearing it could be a dropped valve. It would be good if we could hear it, but I understand not wanting to run it for the camera. Try looking on youtube for "spun bearing", "rod knock", and "dropped valve".

GStrength

iTrader: (4)

OK click on the picture to watch the video, thanks for the input.

GStrength

iTrader: (4)

Also if I spun a bearing and the journal isn't damaged, would I only have to replace the bearing?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Definitely sounds like a Rod knock. If theres enough slop on the bearing, the piston may have contacted the head. The steam is kinda scary but that mey just be condensation in the exhaust. A new bearing MIGHT get you by, but I think I would go ahead and swap.

maxikid

time to get a new engine.. you probably messed it up when you drove.. never, ever, ever drive a car with the oil light on.. no exceptions.. thats a 100 percent blown my friend.. you can either sit there and replace all of the bearings that got damaged maybe some other internal parts .. or you can get a engine with low miles... your choice from this point on

GStrength

iTrader: (4)

The oil light didn't stay on as I drove it. When I first cranked it on it flickered then turned off. Also when I drove it home I would reach to about 25 mphs and turn the ignition off, let it coast then jump start it back on, until I got home down the street. I literally had it running for a total of 120 seconds probably cause even when i got home I coasted down the street and turned the wheel with no power steering lol cause the engine was off.

hornepirate

iTrader: (23)

I thought i had valve tap or rod knock but turned out to be a bad timing chain tensioner (95s had a TSB for them ) if you can get a video it would help a lot more.

it also might just be easier and cheaper to replace the motor all together.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

omg! dont turn that engine on AGAIN please! That is a noise you never want, you most likely spun a bearing, the sounds seems to low in tone to be valve related but can be possible.

I think its a spun bearing, you said the oil light flickered more than normal, which leads me to believe that you spun a bearing and intially when oil pressure was building up it was leaking alot through the bearing(s) that spun. Take off the lower and upper pan, and move all the rod back n forward to find your spun bearing, side to side motion is normal(side meaning moving towards the weights of the crank).

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

correct, youd have to measure the journal with a micrometer and look on the FSM to see if its within spec. Most likely you'll see marks on them.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

wow, your engine is fubared man. just replace with new one, and i thought mine was bad. i feel much better now, thanks and sorry to see your tappin.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Very supportive of you, in addition to the very informative post.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

thanks lol, its the truth, he said he did'nt change his oil for 6,500 miles. i mean, he knows that a no-no. nuff said

dreek96max

same thing is goin on with my max its turbo charged but my tranny went out and i drove it on like 4k rpm to work and when i got off the bypass it went off and i crunk it right back up and i had that same sound as dude in the vid...i have recently taken off my timing chain, both covers, both valve covers, and my rear head and havent found nothing that jus jumps out at me i have measured the came lobes, check valve clearance, removed shim and buckets( no obvious signs of wear), the pistons are fine idk what to think

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

The first thing you should have checked is the rods, have you done so? The noise in the video most likely from spun bearings and rods are just dancing. In my opinion, valvetrain issues would put out a much higher pitch in the tappin. low tone like in the vid = rod

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i agree, ive had that problem with a chevy and the tech said rods were tappin from low oil and running it too hard

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

*bump* i have a similar noise, nowhere near as loud, but after track runs (yes my oil was topped off prior to the track runs) when i turned it off after getting home, my oil light came on. w/ a similar noise as teh vid, then no more than 1/8th mile down the road the light and noise went away...how is a rod knock/spun bearing to appear then disappear like that?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Not sure on that one. Does the knock come with the light every time? Is it an even knock, or or is it funky rythm (same two or three cylinders)? Does it sound like its deep in the crank case, or in the heads?

Two possibilities that come to mind are oil pressure reliefe valve, or main bearing sometimes spinning and blocking off oil galley to crank.

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

check my thread in teh 5th gen section. its leaning to the oil pump failing

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

Spun bearing, engine's fuct, sorry

I drove my beater Altima like that and waited for the engine to blow and it sure did.

cashoit

when i had a noise like that, it was my chain tensioner. But the noise in the video has a higher pitch than what i remember. Either way it aint good. Start savin cash for when the engine blow and jus replace it.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

that sounded like my 3.5 before it went....

I know the feeling

MaxJammin

sounds like a main or rod bearing to me too...this is a vis of my old 2.2L cavi when the rod bearing went.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ldfO...eature=related

00MaxMayne

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to bump this thread, but I'm dealing with something that sounds a bit like this. I brought my car to FireStone a couple days ago to get my oil changed, they used synthetic oil. Before I took it there the car ran and sounded just like it always has. Then I got the oil change and drove it back to school. The next time I got in and started it up the car was making sounds like the one in the video. I don't have the oil light and the sound seems to be worse when turning, the car still drives regularly though. I just don't see what could've happened between the time of me dropping the car off for a simple oil change and driving it 10 minutes down the road back to school. I generally drive keeping the rpms around / below 4k. I'll probably try to get a vid up tomorrow after I work.

My car is a 2000 auto with just about 150k on it. Lord knows I don't have the money to do an engine swap being a college student, so hopefully it's just something minor...

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

have you always run synthetic???? if not i would go back to 5w oil for winter.

Br0nz

what does synthetic have to do with the weight of the oil?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked the oil since they changed it? No leaks from the plug or filter? This is why I don't have someone else change my oil.

Br0nz

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

its the weight the fsm recommends for the vq, if he switched over to synthetic after running regular oil then it may be causing the issue.

Br0nz

why wouldnt he use 5w-30 synthetic? is there something im missing?

Br0nz

synthetics are not evil!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-sz-ZfnhSw




watch these vids too!

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...anding-numbers

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

ive been told to stay away from synthetic oil. even when i had much lower mileage even the dealer said not to cause it was'nt ran with syn from the start. i know some op do with no problems, but its a waste of money for me as the engine's at 226,000 and im not switching at this point.

dondadah88

i switched to synthetic when i bought my car at 187,000 and i'm at 209,100 and i'm glad i did. i get longer interval changes and my car accelarates faster then my wifes 01 GLE with 131,000 miles.

and depending on what oil and how long your changes are you end up saving more money in the long run....

BenL

I switched my engine to full synthetic at 140,000 miles (currently at 146k, was given to me at 136k) after it had been run on conventional for its entire life before that (my mother was the original owner up to that point). This is also taking into account that she had run it almost completely out of oil once in the car's life (luckily I had caught that mistake before it led to a major problem). As soon as I got the major work that needed doing to the car (full exhaust, suspension, etc) I switched it over to full synthetic... on my second oil change since switching and it just keeps running (and sounding) better and better the more the sludge keeps getting worked out. The extra power is nice also.