Hello all. About a week ago, my my 97's check engine light came on. I had AutoZone check it and it came up with 2 codes. P0325 and P1320. (Knock Sensor & Ignition Signal)
I think the Knock Sensor code is a result of the Ignition issue. According to a copy of a 99 FSM, P1320 causes are:
I searched on the forum here and it looks like it could be a coil pack that is bad. Unfortunately, I am not sure what coil pack it could be.
Lets back up about a week prior to this. I did some maint on my car (156K miles) and cleaned the intake manifold & MAS, replaced the PCV valve & fuel filter, and changed the coolant. No problems after this for a week and the car was running better than before.
Could anything that I did for maintenance cause this issue? Also, if you agree that the issue is probably a coil pack, is there a way to test which one is bad so I don't have to replace all of them? Money is tight right now...and I don't want to visit the junkyard as the weather in Cleveland sucks right now.
Thanks for any help or suggestions you can offer.
I think the Knock Sensor code is a result of the Ignition issue. According to a copy of a 99 FSM, P1320 causes are:
- Harness or Connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or shorted)
- Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Condenser
- Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
- Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit
I searched on the forum here and it looks like it could be a coil pack that is bad. Unfortunately, I am not sure what coil pack it could be.
Lets back up about a week prior to this. I did some maint on my car (156K miles) and cleaned the intake manifold & MAS, replaced the PCV valve & fuel filter, and changed the coolant. No problems after this for a week and the car was running better than before.
Could anything that I did for maintenance cause this issue? Also, if you agree that the issue is probably a coil pack, is there a way to test which one is bad so I don't have to replace all of them? Money is tight right now...and I don't want to visit the junkyard as the weather in Cleveland sucks right now.
Thanks for any help or suggestions you can offer.
Senior Member
I would replace the knock sensor as it is easy enough. then I would clear the codes. and see if it comes back on. That's what I did, I had mine come on, saying it was an O2 sensor, I cleared it to see if in fact it was faulting, hasn't come back on since. been over a year.
Senior Member
Quote:
I think the Knock Sensor code is a result of the Ignition issue. According to a copy of a 99 FSM, P1320 causes are:
I searched on the forum here and it looks like it could be a coil pack that is bad. Unfortunately, I am not sure what coil pack it could be.
Lets back up about a week prior to this. I did some maint on my car (156K miles) and cleaned the intake manifold & MAS, replaced the PCV valve & fuel filter, and changed the coolant. No problems after this for a week and the car was running better than before.
Could anything that I did for maintenance cause this issue? Also, if you agree that the issue is probably a coil pack, is there a way to test which one is bad so I don't have to replace all of them? Money is tight right now...and I don't want to visit the junkyard as the weather in Cleveland sucks right now.
Thanks for any help or suggestions you can offer.
Ohm them out to test for their functionality per the specs and measures in the FSM.Originally Posted by sparkyssb
Hello all. About a week ago, my my 97's check engine light came on. I had AutoZone check it and it came up with 2 codes. P0325 and P1320. (Knock Sensor & Ignition Signal)I think the Knock Sensor code is a result of the Ignition issue. According to a copy of a 99 FSM, P1320 causes are:
- Harness or Connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or shorted)
- Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Condenser
- Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
- Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit
I searched on the forum here and it looks like it could be a coil pack that is bad. Unfortunately, I am not sure what coil pack it could be.
Lets back up about a week prior to this. I did some maint on my car (156K miles) and cleaned the intake manifold & MAS, replaced the PCV valve & fuel filter, and changed the coolant. No problems after this for a week and the car was running better than before.
Could anything that I did for maintenance cause this issue? Also, if you agree that the issue is probably a coil pack, is there a way to test which one is bad so I don't have to replace all of them? Money is tight right now...and I don't want to visit the junkyard as the weather in Cleveland sucks right now.
Thanks for any help or suggestions you can offer.
The KS could be the issue however, test It via the FSM procedure Or by the use of a resistor. Also, clean the ground on the Upper Intake Manifold. Hows your fuel economy and power? If their both lacking I'll assume its your KS or harness.
Your maintnece could have caused an issue with the harness possibly..
have you cleared the codes at all?
Also, if you need Coils I have a full set laying around. PM me.
Thanks for your responses. I have not cleared the codes yet. I think my gas milage has gone down but I don't have any numbers to support that.... Anyways, I am under the impression that the KS code is a ghost code, meaning it doesn't light up the CEL. So that would mean there is something wrong with the ignition signal because my CEL is lit. Do I understand this correctly?
FallenOne, Is this the ground point you are referring to?

Thank you.
FallenOne, Is this the ground point you are referring to?

Thank you.
Senior Member
Quote:
If you agree that the issue is probably a coil pack, is there a way to test which one is bad...
Do you have a noticeable miss? Unplug 1 coil at a time until you DONT notice a drop in RPM. If it's not noticeably missing, you can test them with an Ohm meter per the FSB. Originally Posted by sparkyssb
According to a copy of a 99 FSM, P1320 causes are:- Harness or Connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or shorted)
- Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Condenser
- Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
- Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit
If you agree that the issue is probably a coil pack, is there a way to test which one is bad...
Quote:
Wrong, 4th gens are known for setting bogus KS codes in the presence of real O2 and and other codes. In addition, the KS WILL NOT trigger a light. Originally Posted by styliztik
I would replace the knock sensor as it is easy enough. then I would clear the codes. and see if it comes back on. That's what I did, I had mine come on, saying it was an O2 sensor, I cleared it to see if in fact it was faulting, hasn't come back on since. been over a year.
Quote:
YESOriginally Posted by sparkyssb
I am under the impression that the KS code is a ghost code, meaning it doesn't light up the CEL. So that would mean there is something wrong with the ignition signal because my CEL is lit. Do I understand this correctly?