ok so i know there are some threads about this cuz i searched before hand and none are very in depth and no pictures so here is mine.

tools needed:
10mm wrench and socket (socket not needed but helps)
11mm wrench
12mm wrench
14mm wrench
brake fluid
full ss clutch line i got mine in the classifieds but i know in the GD section u can get them







first thing u wanna do is remove your intake to get some room



then u need to hook a rubber hose to the bleeder valve on the slave an put the other end in a bottle to catch brake fluid



go ahead and open that bleeder 10mm take the cap of the master cylinder resivor and let it drain out crack the upper bleeder open 12mm to speed up the process


then you wanna remove the slave cylinder (2 14mm bolts) u could prolly leave it on to remove the old hose from it but it seems easier to remove the whole slave
if you have a strut bar remove the driver side (3 14mm nuts) for room





once you get that out of the way go ahead an remove the 12mm bolt on the slave to remove the old hose
then move up to the master cylinder




remove old hard line from master cylinder 10mm its tight right there but i managed it

then you can hook the new ss line to the master cylinder mine was a 11mm nut yours may differ



then route the line were u want it and install the other end to the slave cylinder

once u do that you can do one of two thing leave the old clutch lines on the car or remove them. I took mine out looks cleaner. i took some pics but remove them from the car is pretty easy here are the pics

disconnect this

remove the 2 10mm bolts here


there is a junction box right under the brake master cylinder where all this junk meets just unbolt and remove


Now you need to bleed the line once thats done enjoy a clutch line u shouldnt need to replace

Now let me say this i can deff feel a difference. wife drove it and says that the clutch pedal feels alot tighter and more responsive best 25 bucks i spent i recommend this mod to any one with a 5 speed

 

Totally worth the trouble if you're leaking...it's cheaper, there's only one thing to worry about, and unless one of your cylinders is leaking it will fix anything that's wrong between them. I had some trouble wrestling the hard lines out, so I used a hacksaw to just cut the line, which made them pretty dang easy to get out.

 

Awesome write up bro. This should be stickied ASAP.

 

yes i just cut mine out also lol and deff cheaper when i did my clutch i had to replace that hose from slave to junction box and that 8 inch hose cost 50 bucks from the dealer

 

thank you chris

 

wait a minute....so this line doesnt go to the "junction" box as you called it? if not imma be pretty upset mannn....

 

this goes to the master cylinder to the slave eliminating every thing inbetween i know there is a ss clutch line that just goes from slave to the junction box this one is the full ss line

 

dang man, i have this same line, but someone told me to go to the junction box...so yeah, thats what i did. im sure it works the same wayyy...any negatives to eliminating that upper bleeder valve?

 

no negatives no more double bleeders took me no time to bleed the line had the wifey help she pumped the pedal and it REALLY feels alot better all them lines are for the birds dude bypass that junction box and go straight to the master cylinder less lines to fill with fluid and hold pressure

 

When my line was leaking, I tried bleeding it from the upper valve a few times. Totally useless. An upper bleeder would actually make sense if it weren't for all those hard lines and joints that trap bubbles. As it stands with the factory lines, it doesn't do much good. I'd just run the line straight from master to slave if I were you - it shouldn't take long if you've already attached the end of the ss line to the slave.

 

Yesssirr looking gd men nice ride..

 

When i did mine it was a lil bit of a pain in the ***. Espeically getting the fitting onto the master. Tight spot but def cleaned up the engine bay without all that coal wrap around crap

 

Nice write up, my line just popped the other day, but I got a ss replacement coming so this is right on time.

 

very nice good job luke

 

nice write up...+1

 

awesome write up this is just what i needed. PICS FTW

 

told ya! lol

 

I am about to attempt this, but the SS Full Clutch line that came in the mail looks a little short in length. How long is this supposed to be?

 

there are 2 hoses you can get. one goes from master to slave an the other on just goes from slave to the first junction box
i had plenty of extra had to zip tie it up to take up the slack

 

I paid $50 for what is supposed to be the full one I thought from master to slave. But maybe they sent me the wrong one.

 

go outside an see iff it reaches from slave to master

 

http://www.racetechperformance.com/P...de=310-0154-42

That is what I got - I will have to look at it again tonight when I do this because that should be the master - slave clutch line you used, right?

 

This job has been a nightmare, haha. The bolt to the master cylinder from the clutch line had been cross threaded by someone so I had to cut the line with a dremel and take out the master cylinder and replace it, decided to replace the slave cylinder while I was at it. So new slave cyl/master cyl/clutch line. Lets hope it goes back together easier than it came out.

 

damn dude, you might want to address your battery terminals and tie down. quite a bit of rust there as well as some other areas under the hood.

 

has not been a issue and the car has been sold cant every body be like you

 

does'nt take much to clean up little stuff like that. mines not perfect but at least she's clean.

 

How did you bleed it ?. I’m doing it as a one man job can I still bleed it using a syringe or the old school pump the pedal and and have some one open and clean the bleeder ?. Thanks in advance !!

 

Unless you have a Motive Power Bleeder with some special adapter you're going to need a second person to pump and pull the pedal while you open the bleeder valve.

 

It IS possible to bleed without assistance.

The clutch pedal will catch on something at the very bottom of its stroke.

Once it's down. Close the bleeder. Pull up on clutch pedal. Open bleeder. Press on clutch pedal.

Repeat.

This PITA procedure worked for me.

 

so I installed the line and new slave and master cylinder but clutch pedal don’t have enough pressure to return , I’ve tried bleeding it so many times already and it’s still the same thing you guys think might be a faulty master cylinder?.

 

It's possible that the master cylinder has issues.

I had replaced my clutch line and installed a cheap slave cylinder. I still had a problem similar to yours.
So I replaced the master cylinder. It's a pita to install.
I still had tge same problem you are experiencing.
I finally discovered that the cheap slave cylinder was defective right out of the box. So I paid NAPA the big bucks for a good one.

Replacing the line and both cylinders costs about 100 dollars. Cry once, but no more issues.